G940 pedals+Pedal Cable

[mig29movt]

Has anyone tried using Leo Bodnars pedal cable (which is built for the G25, 27 steering wheels), with Logitechs G940 pedals?

My throttle had the known "reversal bug", which I fixed the 1st time and now, 6 months later I'm going to throw it it out of the window :mad: But since my new TM Warthog doesn't comes with pedals I wanted to re-use them.

 

Would be glad if someone could tell me if it's working because mine isn't working yet and I think I have to rearrange the cables on the G940 pedals according to this:

http://leobodnar.com/products/DFPG25conn/DFPG25sch.png

[Swaty]

Have you seen this article:

 

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3323724/G940_MOD_Warning_large_picture.html

[Reksi-Erkki]

I built a little box with two 9-pin D connectors and some wiring to convert the pinout - the pic you linked and http://www.lca.ympsa.com/joystick/g940diagram.jpg is enough to figure it out. No more hysteresis!

 

I gave the set away when I got the Saitek Combat pedals, but they really were quite good after getting rid of the stupid hysteresis.

[bongodriver]

I'm probably tempting fate here but I had a hissy fit temper tantrum with my g940 pedals and I tried to rip the cable out in anger, I stopped myself just in time realising the futility and ever since there has been no reversal problem and it has been working for the past month.

 

moral to this story is that from my own experience with g940 reversal bugs, they have all been related to cables and wires rather than the pots.

[Abburo]

I found nothing wrong with the pedals wirings. Actually it looks to me good enough to continue using it after moding the pot. My approach to solve the problem can bee seen here:

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2012939&postcount=6

[mig29movt]

I built a little box with two 9-pin D connectors and some wiring to convert the pinout - the pic you linked and http://www.lca.ympsa.com/joystick/g940diagram.jpg is enough to figure it out. No more hysteresis!

 

I gave the set away when I got the Saitek Combat pedals, but they really were quite good after getting rid of the stupid hysteresis.

 

So you were using the same pedal cable from Leo Bodnar? Btw I had the reversal bug on my throttle not the pedals.

[Reksi-Erkki]

So you were using the same pedal cable from Leo Bodnar? Btw I had the reversal bug on my throttle not the pedals.

 

Yes. It's really a very generic three-axis USB joystick interface - I expect it to accept pretty much anything with a 0V...5V output, provided that the output impedance isn't ridiculously high. But please don't trust me on this one, I've never tried with anything but the G940 pedals.

 

I never noticed anything wrong with the throttle - except the bloody annoying noise on the trim pots caused by the short&tight wires - but the hysteresis on the pedals was just unacceptable with the A-10C. Especially on the runway with NWS on. Also, I needed a cheap pedal solution after replacing the throttle&stick with the HOTAS Warthog.

 

I was actually planning to use a BU0836 for the pedals, but after I found out that the old firmware in the ones I had didn't work with Windows 7, I sent those for an upgrade and asked them to send me a pedal cable as well. Their customer service is really good, by the way!

[Scarecrow]

This page has the pin out diagram for the pedals

 

http://www.lca.ympsa.com/g940mod.html

 

I fixed my throttle pots and I use my CH pedals. The reversal bug is firmware based and nothing to do with cables or pots. If you squash the reversal bug its a good setup.

 

EDIT: it would appear they have identical layouts

Edited March 9, 2014 by Scarecrow

[jib]

Has anyone got a decent diagram or picture of the peddle pin out still (the links on here are dead)

I had my peddles working last weekend now they refuse to register at all

 

 

Bloody crap Logitech Wiring breaks every 5 mins!

[Reksi-Erkki]

Has anyone got a decent diagram or picture of the peddle pin out still (the links on here are dead)

 

I'm pretty sure I have the schematic printed out at work, but you'll have to wait until Monday... can't find the original anymore :(

[Swaty]

Check here:

http://www.hotas.gr/content/view/91/1/lang,en/

[jib]

If you could that would be amazing.

It was working find after I fixed it last weekend and then I packed it away and one of the wires broke off and now I can't get it working again (despite staying up until 2am tiring to fix it!)

It just will not show up in game controllers when I plug it into the main stick.

I hope it is not "fried".

[jib]

With this diagram does anyone know if it is the view from the back of the front of the connector?

 

[jib]

I still cannot get my peddles to work!. is it weird that im only measuring 3.3V across the Live and GND in stead of 5V? what could I be doing wrong.

My electronic knowledge seems to be lacking on this one.

 

I have found this other diagram which says male, so I guess it is a view from the front and I have wired the GND and Live the right way around

 

 

any help would be much appreciated.

Edited August 15, 2014 by jib

[Sokol1_br]

I still cannot get my peddles to work!. is it weird that im only measuring 3.3V across the Live and GND in stead of 5V?

 

You are trying rewire the pedal connector back to Logitech Throttle or Joystick base?

 

Or wiring in the pedal Bodnar pedal adapter, BU0836 or similar and use standalone?

 

If is the first case, I think Logitec use only 3.3v in his controllers (at least in Logitech Attack), is a way to reduce noise in cheap circuits/potentiometers...

 

Sokol1

[jib]

Thanks for the info on the voltages Sokol1.

I have been tiring to connect it back to the port on the joystick base but windows will no longer detect the pedals. both ports work with the throttle so it cannot be the port, there is voltage across the wires and it changes when I move the POT but windows never detects them any-more.

I think I will give up and order myself a this BU0836A Board and wire the POT into that to see if it is still working.

Edited August 18, 2014 by jib

[PeCa_Chuck]

Has anyone tried using Leo Bodnars pedal cable (which is built for the G25, 27 steering wheels), with Logitechs G940 pedals?

My throttle had the known "reversal bug", which I fixed the 1st time and now, 6 months later I'm going to throw it it out of the window :mad: But since my new TM Warthog doesn't comes with pedals I wanted to re-use them.

 

Would be glad if someone could tell me if it's working because mine isn't working yet and I think I have to rearrange the cables on the G940 pedals according to this:

http://leobodnar.com/products/DFPG25conn/DFPG25sch.png

 

I bought and tested it almost 2 years ago, but not successful.

Some axis didn't work at all, and exported value of the recognized axis was not suited for rudder pedal use.:(

[jib]

If anyone else has this problem I did recently fix it by buying the BU0836A

 

 

Once I had soldered on the 3 Potentiometers wires (Rudder and 2 brake peddels) to the central pins, the 3 common grounds pins and the 3 common 5-volt pins it was good to go.

 

My pedals now work even better than ever! Less spiking than when they where connected though my G940. I was thinking of changing the rudder Potentiometer to a HAL sensor but im not sure I need to now.

 

there are still spare aixs inputs on the board so i could route some of the throttle controls into it as well (all the wheels have failed because of the cable issue and the throttles can be twitchy) or I might just buy another BU0836A else mapping controls will start to get confusing.

[Johnny Dioxin]

Did anyone finally manage to reattach their pedals to the G940 unit successfully?

 

I've been using my pedals on a BU0836X for several years, with a Warthog HOTAS, but recently purchased a new set of pedals and am trying to get the Logitech ones working, plugged into the joystick again. Despite having drawn diagrams and making detailed notes of how everything was wired before I changed it, I just can't get the pedals to show up at all, neither in the controller panel, nor in the Wingman config program.

 

Very frustrating. I don't want to have to buy another BU0836 unit just for these pedals on my 2nd PC.

 

One thing I will say is that, despite the better build quality of my new Saitek Cessna Pro pedals, they aren't anywhere near as responsive as the G940 pedals were.

Edited February 14, 2016 by Brixmis

[zaelu]

They surely work, I can connect them either to my BU0836 or to the Stick unit and they move from Bu controller to "New device" Logitech G940 pedals.

 

Or you mean you cut the connector and soldered the wires directly to BU controller board?

[Johnny Dioxin]

I cut off the 9 pin connector because back then Leo wasn't providing anything other than a wire input to the controller board.

 

I could have bought a 9 pin female socket and soldered a load of wires to it and inserted them into the 836 unit - but that would have been a round about way of doing what I wanted, which was basically just to connect the pedals to the 836X, which was already being used for my UFC.

 

I had it that way since about 5 years, but I lost the 9 pin connector (and hence easily seeing which way the wires were connected) and had to rely on my diagram and notes, plus whatever I could find on the web to make sure it was reconnected properly, in order to use the pedals connected to the stick of the G940 again.

 

However, I have come across 3 different versions of how it is supposed to be (on the www) in addition to my own, and so far not one of them has worked.

 

Should really not be an issue to just resolder the wires to a 9 pin plug and connect up, so I am baffled as to why it won't work. I can only surmise that all of the diagrams I have are incorrect. Though they do make sense, electrically speaking.

 

The pins on the plug are numbered very clearly - so that should not cause a mix-up, unless whoever posted the diagrams got their pin numbers wrong (and I have tried "back-to-front" - just in case :) ).

Edited February 15, 2016 by Brixmis

[Johnny Dioxin]

Never mind - I have ordered another BU0836 - I will resurrect my first ever control panel (which was just a simple metal box with 32 buttons on it! :music_whistling:) and connect the pedals to that.

 

I also ordered that mini-stick he has been selling of late:

 

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_87&products_id=210

 

I'll use that on my 'proper' sim rig in place of the Warthog HOTAS' 'mouse' stick on the throttle. It'll be just like playing "Missile Command" in the old days! :D

[Johnny Dioxin]

Well, to add to this, today I found that original cable with 9 pin connector and was able to check my own wiring diagram was correct - which it was.

 

Having checked everything again, I decided to give it another go. I have ordered a 3rd BU0836 (the no-connector type) which I will actually connect up and fit inside the pedal unit, with a simple cable coming out, as though the pedals were a USB set. I just wanted to see if it would work, wired as it was originally.

 

It didn't. Not recognised at all. Which is very weird. Design? Who knows- but I'll not be attempting it again in any case.

 

I seem to remember exchanging the original potentiometers for better ones that may not be the same value as the originals (I can't remember, tbh, it was years ago), maybe that's why it isn't recognised.

 

Just for reference, my unit was wired thus:

 

Pin 1 = Rudder +

Pin 2 = Rudder wiper

Pin 3 = Left brake wiper

Pin 4 = Right brake wiper

Pin 5 = Ground to rudder and both brakes

Pin 8 = Brakes + (both)

Edited February 18, 2016 by Brixmis

[Sokol1_br]

I seem to remember exchanging the original potentiometers for better ones that may not be the same value as the originals (I can't remember, tbh, it was years ago), maybe that's why it isn't recognised.

 

BU0836 work with 10 ~100k, linear (response) type potentiometer (or analog contact less sensors).

 

The "original" pot mater only for Logitech USB controller.

 

To have a "bullet proof" install, remove all Logitech cables and install a new, wiring the pots (original or new) direct to BU0836 pins.

 

The original cable can be broken inside. And they are know as cause of some issues of the G-940.

Edited February 18, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[Johnny Dioxin]

Well as i said - I'd been using it with the BU0836X for about 5 or 6 years already, with my Warthog HOTAS.