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Posted (edited)

I found out where the problem was. It was cable that connects PCB to base. I mixed up few wires. Now it works but I have problems with ghost presses. Looks like SMD 4021 chips are much more sensitive from "normal" through hole chips that I used before. Then I remembered this schematics, I don't know who is author.

 

x7HnHUh.jpg

 

My schematics is basically the same, except R25 and R26. I omitted them because everything worked fine without them. Ghosting stopped when I added R25 on upper chip. Now I have ghosting on bottom chip. It is probably R26, I didn't used it before, I'll check this out in next few days.

 

w74hQRO.jpg

 

O1s61G5.jpg

Edited by debolestis
Posted

 

Amplifier works!!! It is great news, because now PS3 thumbstick will be usable. Without amplifier it has very low resolution. On 10 bits maybe 17-18 points for each axis. It is a bit better when over sampled 14 bits but still not so good. I also don't have full range of mechanical motion due to construction right grip.

 

With amplifier I got around 100 points on 10 bits, and when over sampled it worked well. I will tweak it more, I made voltage measurements and I'll make a few simulations in LT Spice and try to get even better range.

 

You can see how it worked when calibrated in MMjoy2.

 

thumbstick_output_zpsvtxfmesk.jpg

 

 

Forgive me if I missed this somewhere in the thread, but can we discuss this in more detail? I have questions.

 

Why is an amplifier needed? Is it specific to the hall sensors of the PS3 stick? Does a mini joystick that uses potentiometers need amplifiers too?

 

I'm about to start an SFS throttle project and replacing the TDC switch with a mini joystick is one of my goals. I was planning to use a Leo Bodnar board and diode matrix though.

Save

Posted

First of all don't use LB board. It is usles compared to 5$ Leonardo pro micro with mmjoy2 firmware.

 

Amplifier is necessary for PS3 thumb stick because without it resolution is very low. You can see in image above how smoth it goes with amplifier. I tweaked a values a bit and I have even better resolution now. I posted results a few posts back.

 

Regular thumbstick with pots desn't need an amplifier but it will become jumpy with time. I recomed PS3 thumstick, it is a bit more work but it is worth it. I upoaded PCB to OSH park.

Posted

Debolestis,

 

Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately, I already ordered the Leo Bodnar board a month ago in anticipation of this project. Can you explain a little more about how to wire up the PS3 Hall sensors since they have 4 legs instead of 3?

Posted (edited)
Debolestis,

 

Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately, I already ordered the Leo Bodnar board a month ago in anticipation of this project. Can you explain a little more about how to wire up the PS3 Hall sensors since they have 4 legs instead of 3?

 

OK, you need THIS PCB:

 

9d071ab80e0237d6ad9902f63757fc59.png

 

This a new version of the board, I had diagrams from before for older version but it is basically the same thing.

 

StB6DZ0.jpg

There are 4 pins, look at X Axis from right to left, GND, VCC and IN-X, that is axis output. Fourth pin is same axis but 180 degrees offset, that means inverted. You can also use that one, if it is easier for you to solder.

A0sOeel.jpg

Ignore 4k7 and 220K, there are new values on new PCB. IN-X, IN-Y, VCC and GND from thumbstick connect on the left side of PCB. Right side to BU0836 like this:

24bNyec.jpg

I also 3D printed mounting holder for thumbstick:

1RHtKsI.jpg

 

You can buy it HERE.

Edited by debolestis
Posted

Debolestis,

 

Thank you very much sir! You've made this so much easier.

 

Again, thank you!

 

Sokol,

 

Thank you very much for your contributions as well. Your efforts are very much appreciated!

Posted

Im assuming with the PCB board you have in the stick right now...that the PS3 would not be compatible or able to be used?

 

And like everyone else...i too thank you for your help with all of this.

WITH ENOUGH THRUST, LIFT IS IRRELEVANT!

Posted
Im assuming with the PCB board you have in the stick right now...that the PS3 would not be compatible or able to be used?

 

And like everyone else...i too thank you for your help with all of this.

 

Not in the stick if you want it to be compatible with warthog. I made amplifier for the throttle.

Posted

I'm just getting involved in this thread, possible lead on a throttle/stick setup. It's one of the models with the big led on the stick but I'm assuming that can be easily replaced with a good switch.

 

My question is, will your PCB work for that specific stick? And if so, you mentioned you may have some extras for sale?

 

Lastly, are your models available elsewhere (as I have my own 3D Printer)? I 100% understand if you don't want to give them out, no offense taken, but I'd really like the PS3 stick one =)

Posted
I think it will fit in all Suncom grips, but then you'll have to find out which switch fits in place of that big led.

 

Will be not problem install a HAT, Alps 8 swtich... in place of Suncom big red lamp - I already install a thumb-stick+button there, over the original PCB, has plenty of space.

 

Suncom - for save money in manufacture - just remove the HAT an place a LED in the place in PCB, and add the ugly red cover.

Posted
Will be not problem install a HAT, Alps 8 swtich... in place of Suncom big red lamp - I already install a thumb-stick+button there, over the original PCB, has plenty of space.

 

Suncom - for save money in manufacture - just remove the HAT an place a LED in the place in PCB, and add the ugly red cover.

 

Excellent news. I was hoping the one from the Cougar grip would work but the casing is damaged. Should be able to salvage the HAT itself though.

 

Do you have a link to the exact switch you used by chance?

Posted (edited)

Do you have a link to the exact switch you used by chance?

 

By "switch" I mean the integrated switch in thumb-stick.

 

At left: https://s23.postimg.org/d7kbjosyj/Suncon_T_stick.jpg

http://www.robot-italy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/4/image/d43192dcd82ea942982b4b1d2a6e2479/0/9/09032-03-l.jpeg

 

The HAT cover you can print in Debolestis Shapeways.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/STUQPTPJ2/pov-switch-castle-f15-hat?optionId=60914659

 

But a HAT borrowed from Thrustmaster, CH joystick is suitable.

Edited by Sokol1_br
Posted (edited)

I have finished a few PCBs. I also found a reason for ghosting. Looks like I made a mistake, I had to add 3 resistors. One on top 4021 chip and two on the bottom chip. It doesn't look pretty but it works. This will be corrected for version 2.

 

I am sending 4 of these around the world for testing.

 

4uJXC7j.jpg

Edited by debolestis
Posted (edited)
It doesn't look pretty but it works.

 

Unless people start 3D print transparent grips, this will be not noticed. :D

Saitek internals is much more ugly.

Edited by Sokol1_br
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