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Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods


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Hi all

 

Very much appreciate all the response for help and giving guidance. i will start this project in the near future and im certain i will be needing a push in the right direction.

 

I do have some questions already:

 

Sokol1 br- i do have a Arduino PRO Micro, im assuming it will need need to run a code..if its not glaringly obvious already, i have no idea how to code (yet,i guess).

 

Sergey Pe - is Sprint layout a fairly common format....i live in Canada and i have to figure out if theres a company here to build a pcd board.

 

debolestis- i saw the pictures of your throttle a couple pages ago and you have the throttle mechanics that's made by someone i cant remember right now. Do you think that the two throttle mechanics could fit into the original SFS base? i want to replace the the old linear pots with something modern...just not sure what and how to go about this.

 

 

Thanks again to all.

WITH ENOUGH THRUST, LIFT IS IRRELEVANT!

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Sokol1 br- i do have a Arduino PRO Micro, im assuming it will need need to run a code..if its not glaringly obvious already, i have no idea how to code (yet,i guess).

 

You can use code (sketch) on Arduinos, what can involve code compilation... but in this examples in this topic is simple used MMjoy2 firmware.

 

What you need do is "flash" (write) this firmware in Arduino, using their USB connection cable, a relatively simple process (similar to record a DVD) and no involve codification skills.

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Sergey Pe - is Sprint layout a fairly common format....i live in Canada and i have to figure out if theres a company here to build a pcd board.

 

Yes, it is. AFAIK most of Chinese PCB manufacturers on eBay are accepting this format. And of course you can ask a local company (there should be plenty of them in Canada) if it's OK with them.

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Debolestis, I have a Suncom SFS stick with the single hat and the red light. I would like to convert the light and the left side countermeasures switch into four-way hats, and make the stick Warthog base compatible.

 

That would make for three push-buttons and three 4-way hats.

 

Is this possible using your shift registers, like converting an X-Fighter? Thank you very much!

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Probable the 2 chips (16 inputs) Shift Register board with SOIC ("through hole") chips don't fit inside the "skinny" Suncom grip.

 

Alternative - require good solder skill for fit SMD components:

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2954073&postcount=323

 

They will if you position the chips in a different way. I've done it specifically for Suncom grip before deciding to go for a completely new board with SMD components. The size is 53X19 mm:

524128862_16button.JPG.bd69da23188d5b04985ed8d6647e657c.JPG

Shift Register 16_3_53.zip

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Hello! I am guessing you need Sprint layout program to convert sprint files to gerber files for PCB maker? I am thinking of up loading to OshPark.

 

Answer-Ok i dug alittle deeper and found my answer i need full version of sprint to convert sprint to gerber file. The demo version has the exports function disabled.


Edited by Brewnix

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Sokol1, Thanks i am thinking i might order Sprint. It seem common pcb software for here. There are pics all over for Sprint and Fritzing. I have read about file renaming and need for the drill data. Still a little confused but getting there. I am thinking there is no free convertor?

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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You can easily redraw the above SprintLayout PCB in Fritzing - what I find a little "PITA" to use. :)

 

SprintLayout is the most easy to use of this kind of software, very intuitive.

 

But lack "refined" features like colorful components, 3D views... of other software, nor have electric circuit features like e.g Fritzing or Eagle.

I get easily used to this because I am illiterate in these electronic matter. :)


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Sergey_PE

 

What is the purpose of this highlighted GND connector?

 

 

17 contacts in a row are for connecting the buttons (as you would expect:)): 16 buttons and a common ground. To decrease the number of wires I usually connect the common pins of all the buttons one by one and then take just one common wire to a board.

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Debolestis, I have a Suncom SFS stick with the single hat and the red light. I would like to convert the light and the left side countermeasures switch into four-way hats, and make the stick Warthog base compatible.

 

That would make for three push-buttons and three 4-way hats.

 

Is this possible using your shift registers, like converting an X-Fighter? Thank you very much!

 

Suncom stick is more complicated due to internal construction. I have tailpiece made and tested and it works OK. You can buy it HERE.

 

Other thing that is needed is new PCB that goes inside grip. I am working on it.

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I've been working on my own Suncom mod and was going to have debolestis alter the dimensions of the stem to accommodate the style locking collar and finished height I wanted, but decided just to machine the stem out of aluminum as it's a simple enough part.

 

I made a locking collar for my Warthog to replicate the actual lock nuts used in military aircraft and wanted to do the same with this mod.

 

kTZEqEa.jpg

 

I neglected to account for the 2 grooves that go halfway around the stem which reduce its OD a few mm for the webs they made with inside the removable part of the grip, gotta cut them next week...

 

q8lVqjp.jpg

 

rwRuJ31.jpg

 

Br94yEL.jpg

 

I'm going to scavenge one of my Cougar grip boards and stock it with proper 4-ways and also make a 3-way for the thumb though I might break down and put a 5-way there since it already has limited buttons.

 

Trigger will be switched to a replica Otto U2-016 so will be dual stage, and I might end up making a new stem a little longer to accommodate adding a pinky paddle switch since there will already be unused button slots on the board.

 

Projects projects...

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I've been working on my own Suncom mod and was going to have debolestis alter the dimensions of the stem to accommodate the style locking collar and finished height I wanted, but decided just to machine the stem out of aluminum as it's a simple enough part.

 

I made a locking collar for my Warthog to replicate the actual lock nuts used in military aircraft and wanted to do the same with this mod.

 

kTZEqEa.jpg

 

I neglected to account for the 2 grooves that go halfway around the stem which reduce its OD a few mm for the webs they made with inside the removable part of the grip, gotta cut them next week...

 

q8lVqjp.jpg

 

rwRuJ31.jpg

 

Br94yEL.jpg

 

I'm going to scavenge one of my Cougar grip boards and stock it with proper 4-ways and also make a 3-way for the thumb though I might break down and put a 5-way there since it already has limited buttons.

 

Trigger will be switched to a replica Otto U2-016 so will be dual stage, and I might end up making a new stem a little longer to accommodate adding a pinky paddle switch since there will already be unused button slots on the board.

 

Projects projects...

 

Awesome! Nice work!

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Just curious what settings you guys use in DCS as far as curvature, etc? I have no stick extension on my suncom and i'm looking for something realistic in DCS.

 

I also seem to have an issue with the Left throttle, I think the POT might need replacing... I had replaced it with the POTs from the FUSBA USB conversion kit from realsimulator.com i'll have to check the wiring and see if its not something as simple as a loose wire. It may be that the POT needs to be replaced after all... But right now I just have the left throttle input mirroring the right throttle input so I converted the dual throttle to a single throttle basically.

 

Anyways, I could use some help with setting up the Talon stick to be realistic in the game... Curves / whatever.

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But right now I just have the left throttle input mirroring the right throttle input so I converted the dual throttle to a single throttle basically.

 

This suggest that both pot are wired in single axis - in parallel (?), not pot defect.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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If anybody have cheap topgun/X-fighter stick for sale just pm me. I know that eBay is full of those but im Finland so its gets expensive and taxes are not cheap too. So inside EU please :) sorry for offtopic, its just too fun to mod old sticks :)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oculus CV1, Odyssey, Pimax 5k+ (i5 8400, 24gb ddr4 3000mhz, 1080Ti OC )

 

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Well done, very nice, but looks... expensive. :)

 

 

Looks can be deceiving... I'm pretty sure this mod is ironically the cheapest!

 

By making parts out of scrap instead of ordering parts I saved $30-$35 between a printed stem and a Gardena nut inc shipping plus didn't even have to wait the tortuous 3-4 weeks it takes printed parts to show up ;)

 

Last night I cut the grooves I initially omitted, now the stem fits in the grip and even though the grooves go all the way around it the grip has no tendency to twist on the stem.

 

I left just enough gap to allow the nut to easily twist

fR6wtO0.jpg

 

kPhWHeG.jpg

 

 

CjXrdPs.jpg

 

 

Going to use the board from a Cougar and probably my own switches but may scavenge Cougar parts if I get impatient.

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