My UH-1H/V Pit....

[jrsteensen]

In the design phase on my UH-1H/V cockpit. Wanted to go with a hybrid of the H and the V models - better navigation and radio options in the V model.

 

Will be DCS-BIOS based, and the ASN-128D will be (eventually) fully functional IAW with the manuals. The AN/ARC-210 will be cosmetically correct, however I am unable to locate a manual or a TM for it, so the menus will basically just drive all the DCS radios via one control head.

 

Starting with panels, then, on to flight controls, gauges, main instrument panel, seat, and structure. I will have a full and complete CAD model before I cut anything.

 

As far as panels, I still have left:

 

APX-72 IFF

AN/ARC-210

M-150 or ALE-47 (FLARE/CHAFF Panel)

Sim Control Panel (Trackball, sim related controls such as TIR center, pause, etc.)

 

I may do one of the half-size ARC-210 control heads to give the pilot easy access to the control head as well.

 

[UH1Fan]

Looking forward to updates on this project. Thanks.

[jrsteensen]

Glad to hear there is a little interest! Still need tooling - I will have my G0759 here at the end of the month, and I have the feeling I may convert it to CNC sooner than later for engraving purposes versus investing so much more (and so little garage room) on a laser engraver. Also going to pick up a good 3D printer kit in the next few months.

[jrsteensen]

A couple better renders of what I have so far. The hardest part with the ARC-210 panels is finding displays.

 

The DZUS stud installation tools cost almost 300 bucks, but 15 minutes on a buddies lathe with 10 dollars of round stock....and I'll have one.

 

A couple better renders, to show a little more detail of the panels:

 

[Deadman]

Dzus tools are available on eBay all the time for only about $10.00 + $5.50 in shipping the only other additional thing you may need is a 3/32 inch punch. Check out my thread for the Dzus installation and removal

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2198827&postcount=934

 

And a quick check of my 210 panel this 3.45 TFT LCD should fit and work for your display

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2AV-Lcd-controller-board-VS-D1612-N3-3-5inch-320x240-LQ035NC111-lcd-panel-/181207872915?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a30d4b593

Edited May 3, 2015 by Deadman

[agrasyuk]

if you already going to use AV to feed the video systemwhy not use rear view lcd instead?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-TFT-LCD-Color-Screen-Car-Rear-View-Monitor-DVD-DVR-For-Car-Backup-Camera-/171329340261?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e4064365

same thing inside, half the cost

 

but a 3.5 will be a very tight squeeze for an/arc-210.

2.8" fits much better leaving room for button flanges. i didn't find a 2.8" in AV or VGA however, the one i have is a serial arduino one and making text for it will be tricky

 

[jrsteensen]

Dzus tools are available on eBay all the time for only about $10.00 + $5.50 in shipping the only other additional thing you may need is a 3/32 inch punch. Check out my thread for the Dzus installation and removal

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2198827&postcount=934

 

And a quick check of my 210 panel this 3.45 TFT LCD should fit and work for your display

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2AV-Lcd-controller-board-VS-D1612-N3-3-5inch-320x240-LQ035NC111-lcd-panel-/181207872915?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a30d4b593

 

if you already going to use AV to feed the video systemwhy not use rear view lcd instead?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-TFT-LCD-Color-Screen-Car-Rear-View-Monitor-DVD-DVR-For-Car-Backup-Camera-/171329340261?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e4064365

same thing inside, half the cost

 

but a 3.5 will be a very tight squeeze for an/arc-210.

2.8" fits much better leaving room for button flanges. i didn't find a 2.8" in AV or VGA however, the one i have is a serial arduino one and making text for it will be tricky

 

 

Good stuff gentlemen, but I will be direct feeding it via arduino - serial, spi, or parallel - doesn't particularly matter. (Using arduino due's for the panels with onboard displays).

 

Would appreciate a part number for what display you selected - the other bugger for these guys are find a pull rotary.

 

Definitely good reading on the DZUS. I figure I'll make the rails myself, and use some .050 pins through each hole from the side, versus one long one the length of the rail.

 

I wish OLEDs came in better sizes these days - initially, I wanted to go OLED for everything, but...just cant seem to find stuff that fits right.

[Deadman]

the reason your having trouble with fitting a correct TFT is your estimation of button placement is off. the picture has been replace with a composition where I just made your drawing fit to the actual panel.

 

As far as the switch selection goes they are probably encoders

AN/ARC 210 Radio

 

 

SQL COLE 259-2926-120 1800-3208-120

Radio Chanel rotary

Far left

Gray hill 26YY50019 D 0106

Gray hill 26YY50020 N 9922

Gray hill 26YY50020 N 9922

Gray hill 26YY50020 N 9922

Gray hill 26YY50019 D 0106

bottom left right

Gray hill26YY50017 D9835

bottom center

Gray hill 61YY22014 0125 D

Edited May 3, 2015 by Deadman
replaced pic

[agrasyuk]

The reason buttons are moved closer in is to not make them happen right above the mounting rails. I wasn't sure I could make them with such shallow footprint (worked on a prototype experimenring with tiny SMT tacts with integrated leds) and decided to make the compromise.

If jrsteensen pulls it of in 100% precise matter I'll cheer for him.

 

As to your signature, having precise plans is awesome, hard to argue with that. But It is even more awesome when one builds something using those .

[Deadman]

Ah still pissed off i see. I never said anything about replica or 100% that is all your deal .You made a point of recommending a smaller LCD screen. My point is it is not needed.

If you have a problem get over it or spit it out. It is getting old.

Edited May 11, 2015 by Deadman
spelling

[agrasyuk]

perhaps you are right in that i should have included a better explanation as to why i suggested to deviate from 1:1 exactly where i made the part suggestion.

as for the rest you are imagining things, again.

[Deadman]

OK it must just be your tone

[jrsteensen]

So, I've been in contact with my local air and space museum who has a UH-1H. They have graciously offered to let me measure out the cockpit which is mostly complete. Woohoo! Just need to get organized and figure out my schedule as I will have a single full day with full access to the bird, and it's about an hour and change away.

[Ragtop]

That's awesome!

 

Best thing I can say is take pictures of EVERYTHING! You never know when you'll need a reference of some weird little crevice that nobody else would ever think to photograph.

 

Looking forward to seeing your build.

[jrsteensen]

A little update of today's panel work.

 

APX-72 and C-11898/ARC (Half size ARC-210 RCU) are in progress now.

 

[jrsteensen]

Starting to rough this in - thanks Flim for the seat model for this.

 

Had to take a break from my 3 weeks of binge panel designing.

 

I want to get a "pretty good" model together before I go up to the air and space museum. That way I can sit in the aircraft with my laptop and tweak the model on the fly, along with documentation.

 

[Deadman]

Nice looking model your lucky you can find quite a few control heads on eBay cheep at the moment

[jrsteensen]

Appreciate it DM!

 

Well, decided to just go CNC on my mill that is on the way out the gate. Building a list of everything I need to control it, plus a bit of additional tooling. Should be about 3k to convert it, but this will keep me from needing to buy a laser engraver for a while. I'm thinking a 30 degree carbide rotary engraver bit down to .005in will do dandy for engraving the information plates.

 

 

Examining making my own dzus rails - the only issue would be the .050 rod running the length of the rail. I may have to just install a .050 pin through each hole the short way, which will result in the dzus screw connecting 90 degrees from true, but....not too concerned about that versus spending 500 bucks for the rails for the center pedestal, much less the extra 300 for rails for the overhead panels. Instead, should cost around 30 bucks for all the rails.

 

As far as the structure goes, I'm considering backing the console with .75" Birch for rigidity, versus building it all out in aluminum due to cost and complexity. All external surfaces will be .064 aluminum however. I'm going to build the cockpit in 4 sections as far as the floor goes - pilot seat, center pedestal (w/ supporting structure for overhead console), copilot seat, and instrument panel. That way it will break down easy for moving through doorways.

[Boltz]

Check out russtuff on Youtube. He converted a G0704 to CNC and documented the build. Your machine looks identical apart from it has a DRO, don't think you will fit it in with the ballscrews.

I considered converting a G0704 clone but the cost for everything over here was going to be about £3k ($4600) but you have good parts in the US and the original machine is cheaper. From what I saw it will be a great machine.

 

Only problem is spindle speed for engraving. IIRC it is about 2500 RPM max. Can be increased with a new motor and belt drive for about 6000 RPM or you could attach an auxiliary high speed spindle.

 

Good luck with the conversion. It will definitely be worth it

[jrsteensen]

Boltz, I actually found a low RPM engraving tool which is hte one mentioned above. Almost 80 bucks apiece, but...keeps me from spending a fortune. I'll upgrade it with a dedicated engraving high speed spindle in the future, but I'll make do with what I'll have for now - my budget (approved through the office of home finance) is 5k to get my tooling completely in order. I'd like to get my tooling and a chunk of materials with that.

[jrsteensen]

So, looking at getting myself a small compressor and a couple of HVLP detail guns. Having trouble with finding paints though - I need a 37875 color white for the legends, and 37038 color black for the background colors. My only question is which 37875 is transilluminable, and does not require a primer on acrylic? I would prefer it is something I can cut with water versus solvents to keep cost down.

[Warhog]

If you have CNC milling capabilities and are going to use it for engraving why would you not use engraving plastic as apposed to painting acrylic white and then black and then trying to just remove just the black so only the white shows. To me it would seem to be a long and drawn out process whereas engraving plastic works really really well as one would expect. It also cuts much finer than you can achieve with acrylic and its easier on your tooling. I was amazed at the fact "acrylic" can actually dull a steel carbide end mill.

 

This is what you can expect from engraving plastic. I think this is "Romark" matte black on bright white. It comes in thicknesses of .022" and .06". I use the .06" for almost everything. The thin stuff I used for the engine gauges as you can see below.

 

 

 

That was cut with a .125" diameter 0.010" tip 60 degree carbide engraving cutter at a depth of 0.003". In these applications I use either double sided tape to hold it in place or a pocket the acrylic backing plate to a depth of .02" so the faceplate just drops into position.

 

The cutter was purchased from:

https://www.2linc.com/engraving_tools.htm.

[jrsteensen]

If you have CNC milling capabilities and are going to use it for engraving why would you not use engraving plastic as apposed to painting acrylic white and then black and then trying to just remove just the black so only the white shows. To me it would seem to be a long and drawn out process whereas engraving plastic works really really well as one would expect. It also cuts much finer than you can achieve with acrylic and its easier on your tooling. I was amazed at the fact "acrylic" can actually dull a steel carbide end mill.

 

This is what you can expect from engraving plastic. I think this is "Romark" matte black on bright white. It comes in thicknesses of .022" and .06". I use the .06" for almost everything. The thin stuff I used for the engine gauges as you can see below.

 

 

 

That was cut with a .125" diameter 0.010" tip 60 degree carbide engraving cutter at a depth of 0.003". In these applications I use either double sided tape to hold it in place or a pocket the acrylic backing plate to a depth of .02" so the faceplate just drops into position.

 

The cutter was purchased from:

https://www.2linc.com/engraving_tools.htm.

 

I was looking at those - what sort of RPM/Feedrate do you use? I'd like to avoid designing a secondary spindle using a small diameter router for engraving. My machine will be capable of about 2K RPM max with the stock motor.

 

I was looking at using .22 cast clear acrylic backer, with the .022 Rowmark LaserMax top layer, painted with the white then black (white for a reflective layer to allow light "bounce" internal to the panel.) Using a .22 backer with the .022 top plate brings the panel into the thickness tolerance required by MIL-DTL-7788H section 3.3.2 (0.240 +/- 0.023)

Edited May 12, 2015 by jrsteensen

[Deadman]

Not all panels are 0.24 inch thick

[jrsteensen]

Not all panels are 0.24 inch thick

 

I'm aware. As always, every contract can waive meeting certain facets of the standard with approved justification.