VirusAM Posted April 16, 2020 Posted April 16, 2020 Debolestis Shapeways shop Detach wires from the white connector. Pass wires through, reattach. That is not what i want to do. Thanks anyway for the reply R7-5800X3D 64GB RTX-4090 LG-38GN950 N/A Moza AB9 FFB Base + Moza MH-16 Grip, VKB Stecs Max, VKB T-Rudder MKV, Razer Tartarus V2 Secrets Lab Tytan, Monstertech ChairMounts
VirusAM Posted April 16, 2020 Posted April 16, 2020 Debolestis Shapeways shop There are tabs holding the wires on connector. Use something like tiny flat head screwdriver to lift the tabs a pull the wire gently and it will go out. Make a photo of connector before you start, I always forget wire order. Ok i will try that. Thanks debolestis. Sorry f4ttyrider I didn’t understand your post, I thought you were telling we to cut the wires and then attach again R7-5800X3D 64GB RTX-4090 LG-38GN950 N/A Moza AB9 FFB Base + Moza MH-16 Grip, VKB Stecs Max, VKB T-Rudder MKV, Razer Tartarus V2 Secrets Lab Tytan, Monstertech ChairMounts
VirusAM Posted April 16, 2020 Posted April 16, 2020 I made it...but i was not able to do with tour method. Instead I gently forced the connector R7-5800X3D 64GB RTX-4090 LG-38GN950 N/A Moza AB9 FFB Base + Moza MH-16 Grip, VKB Stecs Max, VKB T-Rudder MKV, Razer Tartarus V2 Secrets Lab Tytan, Monstertech ChairMounts
Mearcat Posted May 19, 2020 Posted May 19, 2020 Hi Debolestis, Was wondering if you were able to supply a few Cougar parts as shapeways has gone a bit expensive since I had the Alps housing from your store (which works great in the formula rim). You have on your SW page replacement TM HAT housings that have the switch post/shaft. Are you able to just supply the shaft/post part? My DMS one finally broke after 15 years and I need to replace just the post. The other parts I would like to purchase are the DMS Castle HAT and the F16 style locking nut.
debolestis Posted May 19, 2020 Author Posted May 19, 2020 Hi Debolestis, Was wondering if you were able to supply a few Cougar parts as shapeways has gone a bit expensive since I had the Alps housing from your store (which works great in the formula rim). You have on your SW page replacement TM HAT housings that have the switch post/shaft. Are you able to just supply the shaft/post part? My DMS one finally broke after 15 years and I need to replace just the post. The other parts I would like to purchase are the DMS Castle HAT and the F16 style locking nut. I cannot print Cougar gimbal parts because of strength. Shapeways has much stronger prints. Most of other parts I can print. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
Mearcat Posted May 19, 2020 Posted May 19, 2020 I cannot print Cougar gimbal parts because of strength. Shapeways has much stronger prints. Most of other parts I can print. Thats great, don't need the gimbals just the Hat post, DMS hat and F16 nut. Let me know through PM how much and how to pay.
Thadiun Okona Posted May 19, 2020 Posted May 19, 2020 I cannot print Cougar gimbal parts because of strength. Shapeways has much stronger prints. Most of other parts I can print. Have you done any printing with the newer 3D870 formula PLA? It prints very nicely as far as pla goes but isstronger than abs though likely not quite as strong as sintered prints https://www.natureworksllc.com/~/media/Files/NatureWorks/Technical-Documents/Technical-Data-Sheets/TechnicalDataSheet_3D870_monofilament_pdf.pdf?la=en I'm using Filistruder Veracity Pro to make parts for my SFX-100 type motion platform I'm making. It was the cheapest 3d870 formula pla I could find in the US but in Europe there are other companies that would likely be cheaper for similar filament Hope all's well on your end and you're staying safe, love seeing you continue advancing your offerings.
debolestis Posted May 20, 2020 Author Posted May 20, 2020 Have you done any printing with the newer 3D870 formula PLA? It prints very nicely as far as pla goes but isstronger than abs though likely not quite as strong as sintered prints https://www.natureworksllc.com/~/media/Files/NatureWorks/Technical-Documents/Technical-Data-Sheets/TechnicalDataSheet_3D870_monofilament_pdf.pdf?la=en I'm using Filistruder Veracity Pro to make parts for my SFX-100 type motion platform I'm making. It was the cheapest 3d870 formula pla I could find in the US but in Europe there are other companies that would likely be cheaper for similar filament Hope all's well on your end and you're staying safe, love seeing you continue advancing your offerings. Hi Thadiun Okona, haven't heard from you for a while. I hope that you are good. Thank you for PLA suggestion, I'll look into it. But I think that for my gimbal design it will not be strong enough. There is also problem with printing orientation and complex shape. On my CAM gimbal I used a few tricks and it works great but assembly was very complex and most people wouldn't like that. But I can print almost everything else. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
debolestis Posted May 24, 2020 Author Posted May 24, 2020 Just an information for everybody who orders from Shapeways. They have stupid policy of increasing prices all the time. They have increased prices for anything that is painted again. White parts are 20% cheaper. I can print most of the parts myself much cheaper. Here are a few examples that I printed last few days. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
debolestis Posted May 24, 2020 Author Posted May 24, 2020 Some parts that I print look much better from Shapeways parts. Like this nut, printed in PETG. Knurling details are looking much better. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
Legendofdino Posted June 21, 2020 Posted June 21, 2020 Hi, I just ordered the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece 15° offset and was curious if instructions are included for disassembly of the hornet stick. Additionally, is this the correct option if I’m looking for the same angle as the original stick?
debolestis Posted June 21, 2020 Author Posted June 21, 2020 Hi, I just ordered the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece 15° offset and was curious if instructions are included for disassembly of the hornet stick. Additionally, is this the correct option if I’m looking for the same angle as the original stick? I don't have that grip and I cannot make a video. If its anything like Warthog it is not complicated, I would only recommend patience and time. There are many tiny cables inside. I am not sure what is correct angle in F18, but from looking photos of the cockpit it looks more or less correct. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
Weegie Posted June 21, 2020 Posted June 21, 2020 Hi, I just ordered the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece 15° offset and was curious if instructions are included for disassembly of the hornet stick. Additionally, is this the correct option if I’m looking for the same angle as the original stick? I installed the angle tail piece into the Hornet Stick, it's identical to the Warthog and is easier to install. I can't remember the details the only thing that's a little tricky is taking out and putting back the lever at the base. As far as angle I don't know what the original/real stick has. Personally I always went for the 13 deg angle 15 deg offset, but it's a personal thing
Legendofdino Posted June 21, 2020 Posted June 21, 2020 I don't have that grip and I cannot make a video. If its anything like Warthog it is not complicated, I would only recommend patience and time. There are many tiny cables inside. I am not sure what is correct angle in F18, but from looking photos of the cockpit it looks more or less correct. Perfect, thanks. I'm assuming the allen screws need to be removed and the stick just separates. We shall see I guess. Do you offer the models for download? I ordered thru your store before I dont have a printer but others in my group do have their own and would be interested in printing it themselves. Thank you sir! Great work.
Weegie Posted June 22, 2020 Posted June 22, 2020 Perfect, thanks. I'm assuming the allen screws need to be removed and the stick just separates. We shall see I guess. Do you offer the models for download? I ordered thru your store before I dont have a printer but others in my group do have their own and would be interested in printing it themselves. Thank you sir! Great work. You need to remove the brake lever pin first, I can't remember correctly but think the pin is held with a circlip. You take the pin out and pull off the lever. After that it's just as you said, remove the Allen/Cap screws and split the stick. Then there is another screw to remove the tailpiece itself, but it really is very obvious when you take it apart. It doesn't fall to pieces like the A-10 stick with the top coming off, much simpler. Don't sweat it, you'll be fine The only problem is if you have ordered a metal tailpiece it need to be tapped for the screws, which can be tricky, but doable.
speed-of-heat Posted June 22, 2020 Posted June 22, 2020 if i understand this correctly; https://www.shapeways.com/product/UBB8WRU3A/warthog-throttle-part-afterburner-detent-with-0?optionId=66710386&li=shops this removes most of the idle detent gap? which increases the overall usable throw of the throttle ? is it possible to get a combination of this and this? https://www.shapeways.com/product/9JAPAE26V/warthog-throttle-part-afterburner-detent-80?optionId=82333125&li=shops to maximise the total available throw available to the throttle? SYSTEM SPECS: Hardware AMD 9800X3D, 64Gb RAM, 4090 FE, Virpil T50CM3 Throttle, WinWIng Orion 2 & F-16EX + MFG Crosswinds V2, Varjo Aero SOFTWARE: Microsoft Windows 11, VoiceAttack & VAICOM PRO YOUTUBE CHANNEL: @speed-of-heat
Legendofdino Posted June 23, 2020 Posted June 23, 2020 You need to remove the brake lever pin first, I can't remember correctly but think the pin is held with a circlip. You take the pin out and pull off the lever. After that it's just as you said, remove the Allen/Cap screws and split the stick. Then there is another screw to remove the tailpiece itself, but it really is very obvious when you take it apart. It doesn't fall to pieces like the A-10 stick with the top coming off, much simpler. Don't sweat it, you'll be fine The only problem is if you have ordered a metal tailpiece it need to be tapped for the screws, which can be tricky, but doable. Much appreciated, thank you!
crash test pilot Posted June 25, 2020 Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) Hi Debolestis, I just finished my X-Fighter mod striktly according to your plan. But now Windows joy.cpl shows me buttons 11 - 18 floating, especially if I play with the hat. Any idea what I could have missed? Greetings and thanks for a wonderful mod, shapeways parts and pcb's. Edit:I have soldered a capacitor, but no 10k-resistor on the upper side of the board as you wrote it is only necessary if I would want to add more shift boards. Could that be the cause? Edited June 25, 2020 by crash test pilot
debolestis Posted June 25, 2020 Author Posted June 25, 2020 Hi Debolestis, I just finished my X-Fighter mod striktly according to your plan. But now Windows joy.cpl shows me buttons 11 - 18 floating, especially if I play with the hat. Any idea what I could have missed? Greetings and thanks for a wonderful mod, shapeways parts and pcb's. Post a photo please. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
crash test pilot Posted June 25, 2020 Posted June 25, 2020 After I opened it to shoot some pics and screwed it back together again theres no more floating. Buttons 11-18 stay on rock solid. Not that big problem. Anyway, heres some pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/WQrtvFf Very nice project and thanks for quick reply.
debolestis Posted June 25, 2020 Author Posted June 25, 2020 OK, great then! - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
crash test pilot Posted June 25, 2020 Posted June 25, 2020 Apparently the back side of the PCB touched the ground pin from the trigger. The insulation I fabriced was kind of sh**ty. So some tape to the rescue. Works fine now! Just out of curiosity: The "pressed" non-existing buttons are because the warthog base expects 3 shift register chips? I am not really great in electronics but willing to learn... So again big thanks for a good documentation and clear instructions!
debolestis Posted June 25, 2020 Author Posted June 25, 2020 Warthog base expects up to three shift registers. Each is used for eight switches. You probably shorted second chip. If you have less than 3 chips, some switches simply cannot be pressed. And Warthog has 22 switches so last two pins on last SR are newer used. They can be used with Mmjoy2 or some other controller. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
crash test pilot Posted June 25, 2020 Posted June 25, 2020 Nope. No shorting. I tested it with my multimeter. I have a pro micro, so I plugged the x-fighter to it, and it shows correctly only the pressed buttons. Windows joy-cpl and vkb-buttontest still show 11-18 as pressed when I use the wh base. Again, I am willing to see this as a cosmetic problem; as long as I do not map these buttons in dcs, no harm is done, but I am still curious about the how and why. 1
Struikrover Posted July 11, 2020 Posted July 11, 2020 Hello, my apologies in advance if this information is available somewhere inside the many pages of this thread; I just wasn't sure what information would be a 100% up to date with the current status of the shop and other possible factors. My situation is that I have purchased the Thrustmaster F-16 (Warthog) stick and while everything about it feels great it came with pitch movement feeling very unnatural. After some searching I came upon this thread: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=170588 Which pictured exactly where the movement was and read answers about the tail stock becoming loose and could benefit from some Locktite. Together with information in another thread, which mentions possible third party parts with better quality as the original had me pretty convinced of what the problem was: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=173089 Not sure if I wanted to replace some part having just purchased the joystick I felt confident in being content with no slack and perhaps getting the 13 degree tailpiece in the future if it wore down after long term usage. However, after opening up the stick I found that one half of what should be keeping the stick into place (by one of 2 screws) was probably broken in manufacturing and had an improvised solution that clearly doesn't cut it; see pictures attached. After tightening the one screw that actually had some use to it the stick felt great but slack/movement returned after one evening of playing DCS, which wasn't a surprise at this point. --- In summary/some questions: * Googled to find out the probable cause for movement/slack in the stick. * Expected to be tightening 2 screws and have at least some months of being able to use the stick before re-tightening. * Found a part clearly broken off during manufacturing with a non-working "solution" (a bump added where the actual screw holder would be) that passed quality control (not that surprising as the movement is hard to notice without it being mounted on the base plate). * Not sure if this is even a warranty situation since I opened the thing. * Looking for an answer to these questions: 1. Is there any machining required or things to be aware of purchasing this part: https://www.shapeways.com/product/XRFBJD5SX/thrustmaster-joystick-tailpiece-13-deg-angle-m 2. Does the weight of the steel replacement add possible problems and if so, is the plastic version sufficient over the steel one durability wise? 3. Does anyone have experience with ordering from Shapeways from Europe (Netherlands here)?
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