Fred00 Posted November 13, 2016 Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) I have a couple of questions regarding this very enjoyable module: 1) Do you usually use the radar to lock the target when engaging with missiles? Is there any real advantage to lock up the target, except for range calculation? 2) Do I have to lock up the target to get lead calculation when engaging with guns? How do I keep lock when engaging in a dogfight? 3) I'm a little confused about DG mode. In the tutorial it is said that the gunsight takes care of lead calculation and that I only need to keep the pipper on target. However, in the manual it says that "The pilot’s task in the DG mode is to place the reticle pipper forward of the target motion based on a lead angle.". It seems to me like conflicting information... 4) I have the radar elevation control mapped to one of the hats on my Warthog stick. However, it's extremely sensitive and moves so quickly that it's hard to use with any accuracy. Is this a bug? 5) I need to tap the 'B' key on the keyboard several times to extend or retract the airbrakes. Same question here, is it a bug? Edited November 13, 2016 by Fred00
mattebubben Posted November 13, 2016 Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) 1.The Radar only helps you in calculating launch distance (can also help you to find the enemy again by following the radar + symbol untill the enemy is in your gunsight again). 2.Again yes if you want range calculations you need the Radar lock, depending on gun sight mode it can assist you with calculating the drop off during turning etc but without the radar lock you wont get a range calculation. 3.When it comes to the DG mode i think the Manual is correct, With the DG gun mode you need to lead yourself, but if you use the A/A2 guns mode and manually lock the target then it should calculate lead to where you simply place the pipper on the target. 4.i use the warthog as well and use the 4-way hat on the back of the throttle as my radar elevation control and it works just fine for me not that sensitive. 5.Ive never felt like i have had to press it multiple times so i dont know. Edited November 13, 2016 by mattebubben
Fred00 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the reply. I edited my post (made a new point 3) so that the questions you answered are actually 1, 2, 4 and 5. Sorry about that. Very strange about the elevation control. It's extremely sensitive. Just a quick tap to reach its end points. Also, are you sure that you don't have to tap the 'b' key several times? I always have to double tap it to maneuver the airbrakes. It's been like this since I bought the module (several months). Edited November 13, 2016 by Fred00
mattebubben Posted November 13, 2016 Posted November 13, 2016 Thanks for the reply. I edited my post (made a new point 3) so that the questions you answered are actually 1, 2, 4 and 5. Sorry about that. Very strange about the elevation control. It's extremely sensitive. Just a quick tap to reach its end points. Also, are you sure that you don't have to tap the 'b' key several times? I always have to double tap it to maneuver the airbrakes. It's been like this since I bought the module (several months). I have updated my previous post to match your edited post (and to answer the new Nr.3) And yes i only need a single button push to activate or deactivate the air-break (i use the Speedbreak/Airbreak button on the warthog)
joey45 Posted November 13, 2016 Posted November 13, 2016 The airbrake isn't the normal on / off. The only way to make sense out of change is to plunge into it, move with it, and join the dance. "Me, the 13th Duke of Wybourne, here on the ED forums at 3 'o' clock in the morning, with my reputation. Are they mad.." https://ko-fi.com/joey45
Fred00 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Posted November 13, 2016 Just tested in 2.0 and same there, two presses to cycle speedbrakes (verified from F2 view). I've mapped 'B' key to "Speedbrake switch cycle". Should be correct right?
Fred00 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Posted November 13, 2016 After looking through the manual it seems this is how it should work. 'B' is a toogle key that runs through the three different positions of the speedbrake switch: in, neutral and out. Therefore it makes sense that the key has to be pressed twice each time you want to change the speedbrakes. Strange though that I'm the only one that have noticed it...
mattebubben Posted November 13, 2016 Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Well most of us (who have seen this thread atleast)dont use the Cycle key (atleast i dont) but rather have one for in (Closing the Speed Brake) and one for out (opening the Speed brake). That way there is only 1 button press to open or close (but different buttons). But one thing that you could do if you want to keep using the Cycle key could maby be clicking it once to return to neutral after its extended or retracted that way the next click will extend or retract it instead of requiring a double click. Or if you have the Warthog Throttle id recommend using the Speed Break button and bind the Speek brake in and Speed Brake out to it. Edited November 13, 2016 by mattebubben
Phantom453 Posted November 14, 2016 Posted November 14, 2016 A new question if I may. Since the release version, I'm getting a two ping warning (?) tone about every 5 - 10 minutes. I don't recall hearing that before (or perhaps it was included recently). Can someone tell me what that is please?
mattebubben Posted November 14, 2016 Posted November 14, 2016 And there are no Warning/caution lights lit?. If not then could it be from the RWR?. As the RWR now has an audio signal for new contacts etc.
Phantom453 Posted November 14, 2016 Posted November 14, 2016 No, no warning lights. I thought about the RWR too, but didn't see anything on the RWR display. Thanks for your reply though. I'll try having a more thorough look.
ED Team cofcorpse Posted November 14, 2016 ED Team Posted November 14, 2016 It could be RWR indeed. Now button Search is modeled, and search radars are not displayed by default (fire control radars are displayed). But audio warning of a new guy will be heard anyway.
mattebubben Posted November 14, 2016 Posted November 14, 2016 No, no warning lights. I thought about the RWR too, but didn't see anything on the RWR display. Thanks for your reply though. I'll try having a more thorough look. As Cofcorpse stated the way the RWR display works has been updated. So if you want search contacts to show up on the display (instead of just hearing the sound) you need to click the Search button or else you will only get the beep when a new contact is found. (Radar Locks and Launches will still show on the Display if you are not in the search mode but i would recommend usually having the Search mode activated though it can be usefull if the situation gets cluttered) So i think that is likely what you have. So try turning on the search mode on the RWR display and see if the beep matches when a new contact appears.
ED Team cofcorpse Posted November 14, 2016 ED Team Posted November 14, 2016 (Radar Locks and Launches will still show on the Display if you are not in the search mode but i would recommend usually having the Search mode activated though it can be usefull if the situation gets cluttered) But you must remember, that with Search mode acticated you won't see Fire control radars and Launch warning.
Fred00 Posted November 14, 2016 Author Posted November 14, 2016 Well most of us (who have seen this thread atleast)dont use the Cycle key (atleast i dont) but rather have one for in (Closing the Speed Brake) and one for out (opening the Speed brake). That way there is only 1 button press to open or close (but different buttons). But one thing that you could do if you want to keep using the Cycle key could maby be clicking it once to return to neutral after its extended or retracted that way the next click will extend or retract it instead of requiring a double click. Or if you have the Warthog Throttle id recommend using the Speed Break button and bind the Speek brake in and Speed Brake out to it. Yes, I think you're correct. Most probably have it mapped to one button for open and one for close. I think I will do that too. When it comes to lead calculation (or not) in DG mode I have to make some tests to see how it behaves. The quick radar lock and lead calculation would indeed make for a very useful mode.
Reflected Posted November 17, 2016 Posted November 17, 2016 I'm also new to the F5E - bought it today. It seems to me that the radar is totally useless, especially the longer range search modes. The only real use is to use auto acquisition in a dogfight, but that's it, right? even then those sidewinders are super inaccurate, they almost never hit. Questions: Do I need to switch crossbleed on? I would think so. What are the approach and touchdown speeds? Facebook Instagram YouTube Discord
Jugdriver Posted November 18, 2016 Posted November 18, 2016 But you must remember, that with Search mode acticated you won't see Fire control radars and Launch warning. Thanks Cofcorpse, good info that I did not know! JD AKA_MattE
Reflected Posted November 19, 2016 Posted November 19, 2016 Thanks bbrz! Another question: How do you find your opponent? -Radar is next to useless, especially at helping your SA -Visually it's impossible since the latest updates -RWR -s search mode sometimes helps, but it needs the enemy to scan you with their radar which is not always the case. So what do you do? Facebook Instagram YouTube Discord
Kev2go Posted November 20, 2016 Posted November 20, 2016 (edited) Thanks bbrz! Another question: How do you find your opponent? -Radar is next to useless, especially at helping your SA -Visually it's impossible since the latest updates -RWR -s search mode sometimes helps, but it needs the enemy to scan you with their radar which is not always the case. So what do you do? to be fair if the F5 radar is deemed useless that goes even more so for the mig21, as it will be much more affected by ground clutter at lower attitudes, and has a even shorter range, nor adjustable antenna pitch like the f5 does. So if the F5 fails to spot something via scan mode, then likely will the Mig21 wont either, due to greater limitations. I think its only really useless by those who have a tendecy to compare legacy tech to the modern 4th gen fighters. which is never fair. So if you dont want a masochistic level of a challenge, stick to playing on Cold war era servers F5 vs mig21 servers, something along the lines of that, and just get used to relying more on visual spotting targets. i mean even MIgs have a tendecy to fly with radar on standby to not get spotted on the F5s RWR, so they too have to rely on visual identification quite often as well. Edited November 20, 2016 by Kev2go Build: Windows 10 64 bit Pro Case/Tower: Corsair Graphite 760tm ,Asus Strix Z790 Motherboard, Intel Core i7 12700k ,Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 64gb ram (3600 mhz) , (Asus strix oc edition) Nvidia RTX 3080 12gb , Evga g2 850 watt psu, Hardrives ; Samsung 970 EVo, , Samsung evo 860 pro 1 TB SSD, Samsung evo 850 pro 1TB SSD, WD 1TB HDD
Robert31178 Posted November 21, 2016 Posted November 21, 2016 Lol....that's exactly what I started doing in my F-5 to be a little less, er, "visible". now if they would just get that smoke under control.....
NeilWillis Posted November 21, 2016 Posted November 21, 2016 Just use AWACS to do your spotting for you. In that era, a fighter would rely totally on vectors to locate a target. All pilots would rely totally on GCI to put them in the right spot before using their radar to complete the interception. It makes sense tactically not to reveal their presence until absolutely necessary, as to get within effective radar range. Can you imagine a pilot taking off with the instruction "Well, we're sure they're up there somewhere, go find 'em"!
Robert31178 Posted November 21, 2016 Posted November 21, 2016 Red Crown.......yup!! "Blue bandits, 235 T at 45 miles from Bullseye....."
Eagle7907 Posted November 22, 2016 Posted November 22, 2016 (edited) A couple of questions about the F-5E 1.Only for engine start if there's no external air available. 2.145kias +1kt for each 200lbs of fuel. (manual page 205) I'm pretty sure he meant crossFEED. That's only used if you elect to balance your tanks manually without the automatic balancing system. That switch does not control a pump. It controls a valve. To manually balance the tanks, you turn off the low side boost pump with the crossFEED valve open. When tanks are balanced, turn on boost pump and close crossfeed valve. The crossBLEED is an automatic function and can only a crossbleed start be done with left engine running. Meaning you can't crossbleed from right engine to start left. PS I just did a crossbleed myself and it seemed very simple. The manual recommends using chocks in place, but I did without chocks just holding the brakes. Didn't move an inch. Keep in mind though you have to get left engine around 90-95% for adequate horsepower to spin up right engine. If you don't you'll fry the engine. I did 80% and aborted because the temp went through the roof. Edited November 24, 2016 by Eagle7907 Win 10, AMD FX9590/water cooled, 32GB RAM, 250GB SSD system, 1TB SSD (DCS installed), 2TB HD, Warthog HOTAS, MFG rudders, Track IR 5, LG Ultrawide, Logitech Speakers w/sub, Fans, Case, cell phone, wallet, keys.....printer
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