Blue73 Posted March 8, 2019 Author Posted March 8, 2019 Hi, The Nano's cost me $4AUD each, compared to each toggle switch, $5-$6, so cost isn't an issue. I didn't consider an all-in-one option, but this wouldn't work for my design anyway as the bus transceiver is tied to the box (DB9 connectors) and the controls are tied to the Arduino which is attached to the top plate. Having the two separated is more flexible, a single cable disconnects the two. I've got a good pace going with the front panel at the moment, when the printer is busy I'll take a look at custom PCBs. cheers John Did you look into making your own custom pcb with arduino and RS485 combined on a single board? Just wondering because you're using a lot of Nanos and building a lot of MAX487 boards. The nanos can get expensive. I know you can reduce the cost of Arduino by building them yourself. Although i'm not really sure by how much and if its worth it, especially if you're ordering custom PCBs. Just curious if you looked at this route at all, and considered time/performance/complexity/cost/size trade offs?
Switch625 Posted March 8, 2019 Posted March 8, 2019 ...The Nano's cost me $4AUD each... Wow. I guess i didnt realize how cheap they can be. i was just going off the 'official' Arduino store prices, which i assumed was inflated, but i didnt realize by how much! That certainly shifts the cost-benefit equation! Thanks! :thumbup:
RightStuff Posted March 8, 2019 Posted March 8, 2019 Wow. I guess i didnt realize how cheap they can be. i was just going off the 'official' Arduino store prices, which i assumed was inflated, but i didnt realize by how much! JFYI: 10 Nanos via Aliexpress to Canada incl. shipping will be ~2.50 USD/pc. Pricing is really at bottom: Almost not worth designing an own PCB - except for limited space or for 'academic reasons'.
Switch625 Posted March 8, 2019 Posted March 8, 2019 JFYI: 10 Nanos via Aliexpress to Canada incl. shipping will be ~2.50 USD/pc. Pricing is really at bottom: Almost not worth designing an own PCB - except for limited space or for 'academic reasons'. Thanks. I've always been suspicious of the quality of the low prices on sites like these. I've read somewhere that for discrete components (eg LEDs) you really need to account for a few duds and test everything. What are your experiences with the quality of the Arduinos? are they "inexpensive" or are they "cheap"?
RightStuff Posted March 8, 2019 Posted March 8, 2019 Don't want to go too much OT in here, sry Blue.... I regularly order in China via AE or eBay. Quality of my ProMicros was OK. As there are dozens of sellers, there sureley maybe some black sheeps, but all overall I'm satisfied with almost every transaction. Needs some time for shipping, but thats OK. Experienced some lost shipments, but every issue was solved.
59thCasper Posted March 8, 2019 Posted March 8, 2019 Small update, created new side car to handle the canopy control and the FCS BIT switch. These vertical modules have been updated to allow them to be run up along the side of the standard modules. The last photo shows how they're connected. Undershot that shows how the modules are connected together. cheers John that lot makes me want to go buy a 3d printer and get creating, awesome work 59th | Casper [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Our Website | Our Facebook Page | YouTube Channel | Our Discord System : 9900k 5ghz, 32GB 4166mhz Ram, 2080Ti, Hotas Warthog, Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswinds, VR + TrackIR, All Modules For DCS
Blue73 Posted March 9, 2019 Author Posted March 9, 2019 Yes same experience for me, out of all the Nano's I've bought, and they were all from local eBay with free shipping, I've only had one that was faulty. And it was probably my fault anyway. Don't want to go too much OT in here, sry Blue.... I regularly order in China via AE or eBay. Quality of my ProMicros was OK. As there are dozens of sellers, there sureley maybe some black sheeps, but all overall I'm satisfied with almost every transaction. Needs some time for shipping, but thats OK. Experienced some lost shipments, but every issue was solved.
Blue73 Posted March 9, 2019 Author Posted March 9, 2019 Do It! that lot makes me want to go buy a 3d printer and get creating, awesome work
Blue73 Posted March 14, 2019 Author Posted March 14, 2019 (edited) Hi All, At the moment the DDI is work in progress. The knobs need vapour smoothing and I need to wire up the POTs and push buttons to the Nano. The push buttons have a 3D printed head that connects to the button. The travel is a smooth 2mm. The unit is scaled 1:1, 6.75" wide. Behind face plate. Front and mid sections. I'll print the rear box once I confirm the correct depths. I've got some 2mm perspex coming that I'll back paint dark green. cheers John Edited March 14, 2019 by Blue73
RightStuff Posted March 14, 2019 Posted March 14, 2019 ...and we see another from you. :D Great job! Btw.: Where are you gettings the dimensions from? Gear, Bleed Air, Hook,... all seem to be in R/L size and by no means like based on an educated guess. Mind you, telling us your source? ;)
rocketeer Posted March 14, 2019 Posted March 14, 2019 you are really good at 3D stuff! :thumbup: My A10C cockpit thread
Blue73 Posted March 14, 2019 Author Posted March 14, 2019 Hi RightStuff, I size the best I can from photos only, all my stuff is like that. But I met someone just recently who owns a real f-111 simulator. I noticed allot of the knobs were the same as the Hornet. He's allowed me to go down there with callipers to build accurate 3D models. Those pull RADAR knobs were there, so they'll be updated. I was surprised how big the DDI is compared to the Thrustmaster DDI. cheers John ...and we see another from you. :D Great job! Btw.: Where are you gettings the dimensions from? Gear, Bleed Air, Hook,... all seem to be in R/L size and by no means like based on an educated guess. Mind you, telling us your source? ;)
Blue73 Posted March 14, 2019 Author Posted March 14, 2019 cheers mate, I used to build 3D models in Lightwave, Fusion360 is allot easier! you are really good at 3D stuff! :thumbup:
Blue73 Posted March 14, 2019 Author Posted March 14, 2019 Hi, This is for a VR pit so I won't have a display. But if given a display's dimensions I could easily build around it. Did you size the DDIs to fit displays?
TomVR Posted March 14, 2019 Posted March 14, 2019 (edited) Blue73, did you see the super hornet grips I 3d scanned in another thread? Just raw scans, not cleaned up at all. https://skfb.ly/6I7wL https://skfb.ly/6I7yw If you are mad enough you could build new grips for the warthog and put the original switches inside. I also reverse engineered some terrible madcatz hat switch design awhile back in sketchup, made a few switch tops from the superhornet grip as well https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944 Edited March 14, 2019 by TomVR
Blue73 Posted March 15, 2019 Author Posted March 15, 2019 Hi Tom, That would be a fun project to do and much easier to achieve using your 3D scans. Are the SuperHornet grips the same as the F/A-18C? I might do it to my throttle using DCS-BIOS, I'll cut out a small port for a MicroUSB port for the Nano, or maybe go the standard HID route with a Leonardo. Blue73, did you see the super hornet grips I 3d scanned in another thread? Just raw scans, not cleaned up at all. https://skfb.ly/6I7wL https://skfb.ly/6I7yw If you are mad enough you could build new grips for the warthog and put the original switches inside. I also reverse engineered some terrible madcatz hat switch design awhile back in sketchup, made a few switch tops from the superhornet grip as well https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944
aniron Posted March 15, 2019 Posted March 15, 2019 Yeah, the TM MFD's are modelled on the F16C, which have 4"×4" MFD's as opposed to the 5"×5" displays used in the F/A-18, A-10C, F-14D etc, that are ~56% larger by area
Icebeat Posted March 15, 2019 Posted March 15, 2019 Blue73, did you see the super hornet grips I 3d scanned in another thread? Just raw scans, not cleaned up at all. https://skfb.ly/6I7wL https://skfb.ly/6I7yw If you are mad enough you could build new grips for the warthog and put the original switches inside. I also reverse engineered some terrible madcatz hat switch design awhile back in sketchup, made a few switch tops from the superhornet grip as well https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944 that is awesome work!.
TomVR Posted March 15, 2019 Posted March 15, 2019 From what I’ve read so far, the main differences is the shape of the speedbrake switch (normal hornet is symmetrical) and the 4 way pyramid countermeasure switch is just a two way. The exterior mold lines are different too, so its the same shape but cast differently, i guess to fit the extra direction hat switch. This post has some great pictures. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3564627&postcount=48
Fusedspine33 Posted March 15, 2019 Posted March 15, 2019 An F-18 grip mod for the warthog would be interesting
Blue73 Posted March 16, 2019 Author Posted March 16, 2019 Thanks Tom, thanks for the info, some great ref photos in there! From what I’ve read so far, the main differences is the shape of the speedbrake switch (normal hornet is symmetrical) and the 4 way pyramid countermeasure switch is just a two way. The exterior mold lines are different too, so its the same shape but cast differently, i guess to fit the extra direction hat switch. This post has some great pictures. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3564627&postcount=48
Blue73 Posted March 16, 2019 Author Posted March 16, 2019 Hi, The wiring is complete, it's 4 lines to read the 20 buttons, 3 lines for each POT and 4 for the top selector. A single Nano will drive the DDI. cheers John
Lobinjaevel Posted March 16, 2019 Posted March 16, 2019 That looks great, that would fit perfect with Bruns UFC!
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