Warning to All!!! F-18 warthog flight stick

[JG27_Arklight]

Good lord. The man has 19 posts and you guys jump all over him.

 

 

 

So what exactly did he do, but warn others that they should take care in replacing the A10C joystick.

 

 

 

And it's not exactly metal, is it. Almost all experience TM owners (like me) know that it's not metal. If it were, there wouldn't be shapeways store selling plastic and aluminum replacements.

 

 

It's notoriously weak point and easy to shear off. He might have used the handle to help assisting the knurled ring, or it might have happened exactly the way he described it.

 

 

Why the hate? Why jump on a newcomer who posted a cautionary tale?

 

Yeah its a little disheartening how he was treated. I think I've been part of this community since dirt was new and it's always unfortunate when somebody gets treated like that. To the OP; ignore it.

 

Regarding the part, you know what it reminds me of? That cheap die cast metal that they used to make those little hot wheels cars out of. If it isn't, it's definitely some type of softer metal. To me, it seems like the "weakest part" structurally of the stick. A stronger clamping mechanism sure would be nice.

Edited August 3, 2019 by JG27_Arklight

[Gman109]

OP/Jason, are you certain the base/gimbal is dead as well?

 

 

 

I have an extra TM A10/WH stick or two kicking around, and would be willing to help you out. PM me, I'd prefer to have a phone/voice call with you to troubleshoot your base, I have quite a number of extra parts (I've had many TM WH units since they came out, 4 currently, and tons of parts from the repairs/gimbal improvements/etc I've made with various sticks and throttles).

 

 

Don't give up. Worst case, I'm sure you can sell that F18 stick for what you have into it, I'll pay retail for it from you if nothing else to help you out, but I do think this is salvageable in terms of the gimbal/base. I also have a bid in this week on a used Cougar and Warthog set here in Canada, might end up getting the WH stick/base (no throttle, which you don't need unless you broke it too - sorry, mild attempt at humor), for $100 CAD or about 78$ USD. Plus I have a couple of mine sitting around doing nothing as I said. Anyhow, again, contact/PM me, and I'll see what I can do to help you out. I know it must suck getting a new stick like the F18 and having your trusty old reliable 10 year old WH bite the dust at last, pretty bad timing. Seeing that you're in Canada simplifies things greatly as well on my end....

Edited August 3, 2019 by Gman109

[Akrescue130]

I also have a brand new Warthog base for sale if you're interested

[Sokol1_br]

Regarding the part, you know what it reminds me of? That cheap die cast metal that they used to make those little hot wheels cars out of.

 

ZAMAC.

 

 

If Zinc used is not 99.99% pure, became subject to "Zinc pest".

 

Cougar suffer similar issue: http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2015/10/full-39420-110735-20151015_204203.jpg

Edited August 3, 2019 by Sokol1_br

[Lucky15]

ZAMAC.

 

 

If Zinc used is not 99.99% pure, became subject to "Zinc pest".

 

Cougar suffer similar issue: http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2015/10/full-39420-110735-20151015_204203.jpg

I concur, my Cougar broke in the same way, so I went with a Virpil WarBRD & it's orders of magnitude better than the Cougar gimbal ever was.

 

But you need patience if buying from Virpil.

[Fusedspine33]

One more example of how TM needs to step up their game. Hollow tubes should not be cast, they should be machined. More expensive sure, but the price is already high enough to expect better than plastic and cheap castings.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[RustBelt]

The real thing to do would be cast it with a lager bore and then bond a tube into the bore. But that would be 1 whole extra process and toy makers don't like extra processes.

 

Edit: 2 process if you count cutting the tube.

[eaglecash867]

If the A-10 stick sheared off above the collar like what I see in the photos, you were twisting it in the wrong place. The collar itself is what you are supposed to turn counter-clockwise, and it doesn't require that much force. You hold the stick steady with your weak hand, just to keep it from falling over, and then rotate the metal collar counter-clockwise with your strong hand. Once the collar is loose, gently pull the stick straight up (with a little, gentle wiggling) to disengage its connector. When you install the new stick, gently and carefully align the connectors and let the stick settle into the connector under its own weight (sometimes a little light pressure and wiggling may be required, but don't force it in, you might bend pins). Rotate the collar clockwise, being careful not to get it cross-threaded. If you are unable to turn the collar without the use of tools, it is getting cross-threaded, back off and try again. Many times it helps to first rotate the collar counter-clockwise until you feel the slight bump of the threads engaging. That should keep it from getting cross-threaded. Just remember, if you have to use pliers for any of this operation, you're doing something wrong. YouTube is a great resource for learning how all kinds of things are done, so if you're still having issues, go there and watch some videos on changing a TM stick grip.

 

I know the TM sticks are notoriously weak in that spot, but even the strongest tubing in the world is going to cause something to get damaged if you're essentially trying to rotate a keyed connector within the mating connector. Something WILL break.

Edited August 4, 2019 by eaglecash867

[JG27_Arklight]

If the A-10 stick sheared off above the collar like what I see in the photos, you were twisting it in the wrong place. The collar itself is what you are supposed to turn counter-clockwise, and it doesn't require that much force. You hold the stick steady with your weak hand, just to keep it from falling over, and then rotate the metal collar counter-clockwise with your strong hand. Once the collar is loose, gently pull the stick straight up (with a little, gentle wiggling) to disengage its connector. When you install the new stick, gently and carefully align the connectors and let the stick settle into the connector under its own weight (sometimes a little light pressure and wiggling may be required, but don't force it in, you might bend pins). Rotate the collar clockwise, being careful not to get it cross-threaded. If you are unable to turn the collar without the use of tools, it is getting cross-threaded, back off and try again. Many times it helps to first rotate the collar counter-clockwise until you feel the slight bump of the threads engaging. That should keep it from getting cross-threaded. Just remember, if you have to use pliers for any of this operation, you're doing something wrong. YouTube is a great resource for learning how all kinds of things are done, so if you're still having issues, go there and watch some videos on changing a TM stick grip.

 

I know the TM sticks are notoriously weak in that spot, but even the strongest tubing in the world is going to cause something to get damaged if you're essentially trying to rotate a keyed connector within the mating connector. Something WILL break.

 

I think most of us know how to install a WH stick. Lol :)

 

My little boy twisted the stick and it snapped. He wasn't touching the collar mechanism at all and he isn't a child bodybuilder. It'd be akin to a spiral fracture in a bone.

 

Love the stick, but the collar area is a POS. Haha

[eaglecash867]

I think most of us know how to install a WH stick. Lol :)

 

My little boy twisted the stick and it snapped. He wasn't touching the collar mechanism at all and he isn't a child bodybuilder. It'd be akin to a spiral fracture in a bone.

 

Love the stick, but the collar area is a POS. Haha

 

My post was directed at the OP to make sure that HE knows what he's supposed to do. Your little boy twisted the stick in the wrong place, which is what it looks to me the OP did, and that's why it broke. Maybe I didn't see it in your post, but was your little boy in the process of changing the stick grip? There are also tool marks on the collar, metal shavings all over the place, and a pair of vice grips in one of the photos. To me, it looks like something wasn't done right, which is why I said "If you have to use tools, you're doing something wrong". :thumbup:

Edited August 4, 2019 by eaglecash867

[RackMonkey]

Does anybody know if you can get replacement gimble balls and bell housings from TM? If not, maybe debolestis can print them if somebody can get him the dimensions. Then we would need way to get a wiring harness for it.

 

I bought a stick with what looks like the same internal problems but the tail isn't broken.

[markturner1960]

Mine broke in simple useage with no twisting.....it was pretty easy to break and the part is a piece of crap casting. When you consider that that you can get an unbreakable nylon replacement 3D printed for $12, makes you wonder why TM dont do the same

[Sokol1_br]

Does anybody know if you can get replacement gimble balls and bell housings from TM?

 

Tm sell replacement "articulation sphere" (technical name)*, cost around 30 Euros.

 

But if the magnet support inside the "bell" - in what "articulation sphere" fit is broken Tm will suggest you buy a entire new base.

 

*Are drawings for 3D print the "articulation sphere", but not much feedback about the result.

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2456568&postcount=2

[Waxer]

To all these people blaming the user: I think you are being unfair to him.

 

Fact is that Thrustmaster are using a very low quality material for that ring mechanism at the bottom of the Warthog grip. The material is prone to metal fatigue and brittle fractures which is what has clearly happened in this case looking at the way the material failed. To add to the poor material choice, the design is also poor: it has a relatively narrow neck with a near 90 degree corner close by which would cause a build up of stress: over months of use this would amplify any existing micro fractures in the material and contribute towards a brittle fracture.

 

Sure trying to remove the grip caused the fracture, but if the materials choice and design had been right in the first place then the grip would have been removable using moderate force without causing a brittle fracture.

[JG27_Arklight]

My post was directed at the OP to make sure that HE knows what he's supposed to do. Your little boy twisted the stick in the wrong place, which is what it looks to me the OP did, and that's why it broke. Maybe I didn't see it in your post, but was your little boy in the process of changing the stick grip? There are also tool marks on the collar, metal shavings all over the place, and a pair of vice grips in one of the photos. To me, it looks like something wasn't done right, which is why I said "If you have to use tools, you're doing something wrong". :thumbup:

 

Nope, he just twisted it like you would a stick with a twist grip and SNAP.

 

Of course, the WH grip does not utilize decent material for the collar and the stick was bought close to release. It lasted a LONG time. Still though, it's a little silly that the cheapest material is put in the areas with the most force applied. lol

[Boris]

There are also tool marks on the collar, metal shavings all over the place, and a pair of vice grips in one of the photos. To me, it looks like something wasn't done right, which is why I said "If you have to use tools, you're doing something wrong". :thumbup:

 

Pretty sure he used the vice grip on the stick and the pipe-wrench on the collar. Some nice lever action there and "hey presto" broken stick.

I totally get it though. I could completely see myself doing this after becoming increasingly frustrated :joystick:

[eaglecash867]

Pretty sure he used the vice grip on the stick and the pipe-wrench on the collar. Some nice lever action there and "hey presto" broken stick.

I totally get it though. I could completely see myself doing this after becoming increasingly frustrated :joystick:

 

Typ. We've all done stuff like that, and then kicked ourselves afterward. It definitely comes with the territory with flight simming and all the tinkering we do. Not trying to blame anyone for anything, since I've had lots of times where I broke something because I misunderstood how it was put together. :D

[Sokol1_br]

Break "proof" setup. ;)

 

[norbot]

Break "proof" setup. ;)

 

 

Does the VKB TM Warthog Adapter work with the TM F/A-18 stick and Gunfighter base?

[Sokol1_br]

Yes, this pic above is an user setup (posted in il-2.ru forum).

 

EDIT - In fact no reason for F-18 AddOn grip don't work in VKB and VirPil bases compatible with Warthog grip, since F-18 AddOn grip emulates Warthog in number of buttons.

Edited August 9, 2019 by Sokol1_br

[VirusAM]

Does the VKB TM Warthog Adapter work with the TM F/A-18 stick and Gunfighter base?

It's very likely

[Supmua]

Warning to All!!! F-18 warthog flight stick

 

I’ve been trying to buy their Warthog adapter for the past 2 years, no luck. The adapter isn’t plug and play either, you have to open up the Warthog grip since it replaces the entire connector, meaning it won’t work with other warthog compatible bases unless you reverse the process.

Edited August 9, 2019 by Supmua