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Posted

No matter what I try I can't make it work. both the trottle and the cyclic are extremely twitchy. Am I suposed to fly this with baby hands? any tips from players who fly it?

Posted
No matter what I try I can't make it work. both the trottle and the cyclic are extremely twitchy. Am I suposed to fly this with baby hands? any tips from players who fly it?

 

Set up curves in your axis tuning. Make sure your collective channel isn't reversed like mine was.

I think I have a 25-30% curve on all axes. It can be fun to fly, but I need to work on stable hovering

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Posted

Set saturation Y down to 50% on both the roll and pitch axes.

Try it for a few flights, then adjust from there, including adding a small amount of curve. You'll need less curve than other modules since you're reducing the input rate with the saturation.

 

 

I don't use curve on my collective axis.

 

Good luck and stick with it. Fun bird.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Adjusting curves or saturation does not change that as soon as you get on board you notice a difference from other helicopters. The commands respond unreally as if the physics, weight, inertia have been set aside for this module. at the controls as if it had no weight and no center of gravity to influence the movement.I stop here, I would already be happy if these aspects were repaired to this magnificent module because even if it is a light, agile and maneuverable helicopter they do not appear as realistic anyway I hope you will soon find the energy you need to continue working, many of us would be happy.

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Posted
No matter what I try I can't make it work. both the trottle and the cyclic are extremely twitchy. Am I suposed to fly this with baby hands? any tips from players who fly it?

 

Or this can help you too:

**************************************

DCS World needs the Panavia Tornado! Really!

**************************************

Posted (edited)
gmetzo said:
No matter what I try I can't make it work. both the trottle and the cyclic are extremely twitchy. Am I suposed to fly this with baby hands? any tips from players who fly it?

There doesn't seem to be much allowance in the Gazelle's default settings for the short throw found in regular joysticks.

 

IIRC I started off with 0 curve and ~50% x and y saturation, once I got used to the sensitivity I gradually increased my x/y saturation and now fly with 100%, however the FFB on my stick is adjustable and is set to be very light, so YMMV.

 

If it's your first helicopter, you'll fly using light pressure with thumb / 2 figures making lots of small movements.

 

Quote
I started off practicing 3 ft hover taxis around an airbase.

 

Stick control *should* use your thumb and two fingers (rather than full grip) but it isn't quite as easy if using a twist axis for yaw. Precise control is a little more difficult but is good enough to do what's needed and improves with practice.

 

To hold a steady hover - use small, relaxed movements. You'll need to anticipate the helicopters movement and allow for lag/inertia. You should expect the helicopter to always move/sway a little (like a row boat rocking due to gentle waves), it'll need small adjustments but not so much as to over compensate or cause PIO's (pilot induced oscillations).

 

Once able to hold a short hover, practice hover taxis and stops around the airbase/taxiways.

 

Try to use peripheral vision, the horizon and mid distance when holding a hover/making adjustments, as using close foreground references can make things difficult or induce PIO.

 

For landing, treat it as a light aircraft with low stall speed and 6-12° glide slope (600ft/nm).

 

Approach at 40 -50 knots until near the ground (IIRC 30-40ft). Then reduce collective and pitch up to slow down and then increase collective again as you leave translational lift. As the helicopter enters ground effect, you'll again need to anticipate and reduce/balance the collective to enter a hover in ground effect.

 

UH-1H numbers are from memory, so YMMV

 

(I don't recall the approach speeds/heights for the Gazelle ATM)

 

Casmo has recently shared his Gazelle control setup here

 

Edited by Ramsay

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Posted

Take a look at the already mentioned video from Casmo. Also, this video

might help.

 

 

I have a TM Warthog throttle with push-trough detents. I use the left throttle as Fuel Flow Lever and the right throttle as Flight Control Collective. Because of the detent I use the following values:

 

 

[TABLE]Slider|True

Inverted|True

User Curve| False

Deadzone |25 (this is because of the detent and Inverted == True)

Saturation X|100

Saturation Y|100

Curve|+15[/TABLE]

 

Regarding Cyclic I used to have a value of 40 for Saturation Y for each axis, but I changed it to 25 for Flight Control Cyclic Roll after watching Casmo's video and I'm quite happy with this change.

Posted

+1 for the just released casmotv video above

 

Casmo himself is an IRL Kiowa & Apache pilot and found the default settings too sensitive as well.

 

he shares settings recommended by IRL Gazelle pilots in the video description, plus a little tweak to the collective that is his personal preference.

 

I had been running a 60 - 70% Saturation on cyclic, plus a curve and found it tolerable. tried Casmo's and it's much improved.

 

casmo reflects on the characteristics of the module and says it's definitely playable and shouldn't be shitcanned.

 

worthwhile to listen to the whole thing just to hear his perspective - he's pretty chill and has a talent for focusing on what matters and what doesn't ;)

Posted
There doesn't seem to be much allowance in the Gazelle's default settings for the short throw found in regular joysticks.

 

IIRC I started off with 0 curve and ~50% x and y saturation, once I got used to the sensitivity I gradually increased my x/y saturation and now fly with 100%, however the FFB on my stick is adjustable and is set to be very light, so YMMV.

 

If it's your first helicopter, you'll fly using light pressure with thumb / 2 figures making lots of small movements.

 

 

 

(I don't recall the approach speeds/heights for the Gazelle ATM)

 

Casmo has recently shared his Gazelle control setup here

 

 

 

Thank you! For me this video was very helpful.

**************************************

DCS World needs the Panavia Tornado! Really!

**************************************

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Geezus with the hour long YouTube. What's wrong with just posting the numbers? 30 sat on pitch, 25 on roll, -15 curve on collective is what Casmo recommends.

  • Thanks 1

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Posted
What's wrong with just posting the numbers? 30 sat on pitch, 25 on roll, -15 curve on collective is what Casmo recommends.

 

I use a FFB stick and don't use his numbers myself, by posting the source, I allow people to make their own opinion.

i9 9900K @4.8GHz, 64GB DDR4, RTX4070 12GB, 1+2TB NVMe, 6+4TB HD, 4+1TB SSD, Winwing Orion 2 F-15EX Throttle + F-16EX Stick, TPR Pedals, TIR5, Win 11 Pro x64, Odyssey G93SC 5120X1440

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Based on IRL experience on the gazelle and what I remember wrt to amount of cyclic deflection here are my settings using a short throw stick with a purpose built collective and VKB yaw pedals.

 

Y Axis - Pitch - 50%

Y Axis - Roll - 50%

 

Everything else is 100% no curves

Posted
And turn off FFB for each axis as well, unless you use it.

 

Yup. This setting is way more important than curves settings because unless you turn off FFB in the MISC settings, the effective resolution on your curves will be a stepwise function. Stairs rather than a smooth curve or line. So controlling your Gaz in a hover will be both lurchy and twitchy.

 

Turn FFB off and your inputs will be as accurate as your hardware bit rate resolution and smoothness allows. Eg if you have a 10-bit stick with an extension, then curves aren't even needed if you turn off FFB.

Posted
Yup. This setting is way more important than curves settings because unless you turn off FFB in the MISC settings, the effective resolution on your curves will be a stepwise function. Stairs rather than a smooth curve or line. So controlling your Gaz in a hover will be both lurchy and twitchy.

 

Turn FFB off and your inputs will be as accurate as your hardware bit rate resolution and smoothness allows. Eg if you have a 10-bit stick with an extension, then curves aren't even needed if you turn off FFB.

 

This as well......

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