MillKris Posted October 2, 2023 Posted October 2, 2023 (edited) #UPDATE: I uploaded a HowTo PDF with more informations and WIP pictures to Thingiverse. You can also download it from here: https://milkris.de/s/fn9isEywRaWQjxR DISCLAIMER: I’m not a professional maker! It’s not perfect, but it works and I’m fine with the result. Here and there, some filing, drilling, and gluing might be necessary... temp solution to fix the UFC ghosting bug. go to : DCS World OpenBeta\Mods\aircraft\F-15E\Cockpit\UFC\Indicator\UFC_Rear_init.lua find line : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC") replace by : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC_rear") Parts needed: The STL files for 3d printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6248787 a 7" 800x600 4:3 CLAA070MA0ACW LCD Screen (or just a red acrylic glas for VR pilots)https://www.amazon.de/CLAA070MA0ACW-LCD-Bildschirm-TFT-Monitor-HDMI-Eingang-LCD-Controller-Board/dp/B072JTB73F/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1Q57UB0M245L&keywords=CLAA070MA0ACW&qid=1696496871&s=computers&sprefix=claa070ma0acw%2Ccomputers%2C95&sr=1-1 10 pieces: 6 x 6 x 10mm Tactile Switches (Display Buttons)https://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 35 pieces 6 x 6 x 4.3mm Tactile Switcheshttps://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 4 Potentiometershttps://www.ebay.de/itm/174261626629?var=473259663408 2 Rotary Encoders (Radio Channels) https://www.amazon.de/s?k=WayinTop+5+Set+360+Grad+Rotary+Encoder+Modul+EC11&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=YJ7QO6J3747X&sprefix=wayintop+5+set+360+grad+rotary+encoder+modul+ec11%2Caps%2C94&ref=nb_sb_noss 2 Dual Rotary Encoders (RadioVolume)https://www.ebay.de/itm/225271940062 2 ON-OFF-ON Switches https://www.ebay.de/itm/182568517273?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338748320&toolid=20006&customid=K4AVAs4ZAAAAgC9iOSdfZ7EEgU0AAAAAAA a Leobodnar BU0836X USB (or an Arduino for DCS BIOS)https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180 a 12-button joystick USB (not needed if you use Arduino)https://www.amazon.de/Quimat-Nullverz%C3%B6gerung-Encoder-Joystick-QR04/dp/B06XD1WF8G/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=176ESIHEU5QHW&keywords=12-button+joystick+USB&qid=1696496950&sprefix=12-button+joystick+usb+%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-8 few black M3, M4, M5 screws, some hot glue, some 3mm PVC foam board Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board. https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=300 !! NOTE !! This thing is BIG! If you have a small printer like me (Creality Ender 3), you have to print some parts WITHOUT rafts!!! The UFC can be mounted slightly tilt forward or straight. There are two option you can print. You can label the panels by changing the filament at the appropriate print height in Cura (etc.). I only did this for the buttons. I printed the other labels on adhesive film. I made these prints resistant with acrylic paint. So, there is an option "NO-LABELS" for some STL parts. I have attached a suitable PNG or here https://milkris.de/s/DtK6gxqaiAgqQTo. This can be easily printed on A4 adhesive film.For some areas in the interior, such as the housing for the electrical boards and the back panel of the UFC, I simply used a 3mm PVC foam board. I simply used a Leobodnar BU0836X USB board, as well as a simple 12-button joystick USB board. It's not pretty, but it works out of the box. Of course, you can also use a different solution (Arduino, etc.). # Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board Since I already use a 4K monitor and three 7" MFD screens, my monitor outputs were scarce. The solution was the "Matrox TripleHead2Go". I got the DP version cheaply on eBay. Here I combined my three 800x600 MFD screens into one 2400x600 screen. Now I only need one DP connection to the graphics card for my three MFDs, and I can connect the UFC to the graphics card with a DP to HDMI cable. The viewpoint export must be adjusted exactly so that the lines are readable. Please refer to the pictures at Thingiverse! Since I change the UFCs, throttles, and joysticks depending on the aircraft i fly, I have created various PowerShell scripts for starting DCS, which accordingly adjust the MonitorConfig, etc. before starting DCS If you only use the UFC in VR, you can also simply use a red acrylic glass instead of the LCD screen. It's alive!!! it's a mess My little helper have soldered most of the wires My little corner. Full convertible Cockpit. Edited February 1, 2024 by MillKris 6
Sacarino111 Posted October 2, 2023 Posted October 2, 2023 Hi @MillKris. Whyat an outstanding job of yours! Good work, no doubt. I made the A10 C UFC, the F/A-18 and the ICP of the F-16, but yourd look gorgeouse. I don't know how the Leo Bodnar actually works, but I did my projects with this info ( https://forum.dcs.world/topic/97434-an-arduino-usb-hid-controller-composite-usb-controller), reason being that it has 256 buttons () and up to 8 pots (), but the most important thing I wanted to share with you is that the buttons are created over a matrix, witch saves a lot of wire mess and makes troubleshooting more easy (if that is possible). And believe me, that is important... I didn't ment to be mean, just I had a rush reaction when I saw all those wires (). If you think I may be of some help, don't hesitate in asking. Saludos. Saca111 1
MillKris Posted October 2, 2023 Author Posted October 2, 2023 @Sacarino111 Thank you very much for the praise. I'm familiar with Arduino USB HID, but I haven't had the time to really deep dive into it. Because I'm lazy, I've been using the controllers from Leo Bodnar so far. They support up to 64 inputs, which is usually sufficient. Dealing with the cables can be quite annoying, but fortunately, my girlfriend enjoys soldering. 1 1
MillKris Posted October 2, 2023 Author Posted October 2, 2023 (edited) First flight test was a success! "Only the HUD controll box is missing now. The parts are currently being printed..." Edited October 3, 2023 by MillKris 2
Stewmanji Posted October 3, 2023 Posted October 3, 2023 A girlfriend that solders flight simulation hardware?!? A definite keeper sir! I congratulated you on Reddit already but this project (and your cockpit) deserve a 2nd shout-out. Well done! 2 Hangar: A-7 | A-10C | AV-8B | F-14B | F-15C | F-15E | F-16C | F-18C | KA-50 | Mi-8 | SA342 | UH-1H
Sacarino111 Posted October 3, 2023 Posted October 3, 2023 Really good setup. Congrats! And the good thing is, with little mind effort, you can use it for the Hornet and the Harrier. Almost direct translation. And yes, keep that GF happy, she's a catch! Saludos. Saca111 2
MillKris Posted October 4, 2023 Author Posted October 4, 2023 (edited) It's finally done and released! All files and Infos found here!! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6248787 Please let me know what you think about it! Edited October 4, 2023 by MillKris 5
Vakarian Posted October 4, 2023 Posted October 4, 2023 Very nice, thanks a lot for sharing the files. I will try to build a PCB for this as I've already build a Harrier UFC and it's a frigging mess with the wires inside With some luck and free time, this could be a nice holiday season project 3
MillKris Posted October 4, 2023 Author Posted October 4, 2023 @Vakarian that would be awesome! Please let me know how you are progressing with this.
Vakarian Posted October 4, 2023 Posted October 4, 2023 Yeah, when I get some time to do this, I'll definitely post a follow up here
Sacarino111 Posted October 4, 2023 Posted October 4, 2023 4 hours ago, MillKris said: Please let me know what you think about it! SEXY! 1
Sacarino111 Posted October 4, 2023 Posted October 4, 2023 4 hours ago, Vakarian said: Very nice, thanks a lot for sharing the files. I will try to build a PCB for this as I've already build a Harrier UFC and it's a frigging mess with the wires inside With some luck and free time, this could be a nice holiday season project HI @Vakarian. Think about what I told the OP; Try to use a common ground wire for the most of the buttons as possible, it really helps reducing the amount of wires. And also, if possible, use color wires, so it is easier to follow the track of them when trouble shooting. For my project, I used ribbon cable (like the ones in an IDE cable), cut so a group of buttons that are close in the board stay together and make less of a mess. As an example, the left 5 selector buttons will go in a 5 wires ribbon cable, another 5 block for the right hand 5 selector buttons and so on... and the common (ground) part of the buttons is connceted together into a single wire, so you can economize lot of cable nest. It is cleaner but more difficult to keep trak of the cables. I hope I made myself clear, as it is not as easy to explain in words. Go for it and enjoy the journey (I did enjoy making my boxes, I almost prefered making them than actually flying with them). Saludos. Saca111
Vakarian Posted October 4, 2023 Posted October 4, 2023 Yeah, even when using common ground and multiplexers/shift registers, you still have a lot of wires so I'd like to avoid that. I've been challenging myself to do a PCB for a while now, it's time I actually build one hahaha.
Rainmaker Posted October 5, 2023 Posted October 5, 2023 (edited) I'll be the first to ask a stupid question. Is that white mounting board for the keypad buttons something that was bought from somewhere, or is that part of the print files? I just ask it was obviously a different color and looks like you have more than one of them in the picture. Edited October 5, 2023 by Rainmaker
MillKris Posted October 5, 2023 Author Posted October 5, 2023 @Rainmaker it's the button matrix. I printed all of them white. 1
Sacarino111 Posted October 5, 2023 Posted October 5, 2023 18 hours ago, Vakarian said: I've been challenging myself to do a PCB for a while now, it's time I actually build one hahaha. Yep. That's the way to go. I tried with "Fritzing", not bad app but not free anymore, but at the end you need that PCB done; so it was a new skill to learn, or make a pro make it (PCBway, as an example), so I stuck with a lot of cables as the less and faster to accomplish. The end result is astonnishing, I can not imagine flying without a physical setup. Saludos Saca111
MillKris Posted October 5, 2023 Author Posted October 5, 2023 Added a some "straigt" parts so the UFC can be mounted at a 90-degree angle.
MillKris Posted October 5, 2023 Author Posted October 5, 2023 (edited) Some Updates and changes: You need: 7" 800x600 4:3 CLAA070MA0ACW LCD Screen (or just a red acrylic glas for VR pilots) https://www.amazon.de/CLAA070MA0ACW-LCD-Bildschirm-TFT-Monitor-HDMI-Eingang-LCD-Controller-Board/dp/B072JTB73F/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1Q57UB0M245L&keywords=CLAA070MA0ACW&qid=1696496871&s=computers&sprefix=claa070ma0acw%2Ccomputers%2C95&sr=1-1 10 pieces: 6 x 6 x 10mm Tactile Switches (Display Buttons) https://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 35 pieces 6 x 6 x 4.3mm Tactile Switches https://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 4 Potentiometers https://www.ebay.de/itm/174261626629?var=473259663408 2 Rotary Encoders (Radio Channels) https://www.amazon.de/s?k=WayinTop+5+Set+360+Grad+Rotary+Encoder+Modul+EC11&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=YJ7QO6J3747X&sprefix=wayintop+5+set+360+grad+rotary+encoder+modul+ec11%2Caps%2C94&ref=nb_sb_noss 2 Dual Rotary Encoders (RadioVolume) https://www.ebay.de/itm/225271940062 2 ON-OFF-ON Switches https://www.ebay.de/itm/182568517273?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338748320&toolid=20006&customid=K4AVAs4ZAAAAgC9iOSdfZ7EEgU0AAAAAAA a Leobodnar BU0836X USB (or an Arduino for DCS BIOS) https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180 a 12-button joystick USB (not needed if you use Arduino) https://www.amazon.de/Quimat-Nullverz%C3%B6gerung-Encoder-Joystick-QR04/dp/B06XD1WF8G/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=176ESIHEU5QHW&keywords=12-button+joystick+USB&qid=1696496950&sprefix=12-button+joystick+usb+%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-8 few black M3, M4, M5 screws, some hot glue, some 3mm rigid foam board Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board. https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=300 !! NOTE !! This thing is BIG! If you have a small printer like me (Creality Ender 3), you have to print some parts WITHOUT rafts!!! You can label the panels by changing the filament at the appropriate print height in Cura (etc.). I only did this for the buttons. I printed the other labels on adhesive film. I made these prints resistant with acrylic paint. So, there is an option "NO-LABELS" for some STL parts. I have attached a suitable PNG. This can be easily printed on A4 adhesive film.For some areas in the interior, such as the housing for the electrical boards and the back panel of the UFC, I simply used a 3mm rigid foam board. I simply used a Leobodnar BU0836X USB board, as well as a simple 12-button joystick USB board. It's not pretty, but it works out of the box. Of course, you can also use a different solution (Arduino, etc.). # Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board Since I already use a 4K monitor and three 7" MFD screens, my monitor outputs were scarce. The solution was the "Matrox TripleHead2Go". I got the DP version cheaply on eBay. Here I combined my three 800x600 MFD screens into one 2400x600 screen. Now I only need one DP connection to the graphics card for my three MFDs, and I can connect the UFC to the graphics card with a DP to HDMI cable. The viewpoint export must be adjusted exactly so that the lines are readable. Please refer to the pictures at Thingiverse! Since I change the UFCs, throttles, and joysticks depending on the aircraft i fly, I have created various PowerShell scripts for starting DCS, which accordingly adjust the MonitorConfig, etc. before starting DCS If you only use the UFC in VR, you can also simply use a red acrylic glass instead of the LCD screen. Edited October 5, 2023 by MillKris
Rainmaker Posted October 8, 2023 Posted October 8, 2023 Slowly going, but going. Had some old dupont connector pigtails I tried to use, which were absolutely terrible at taking solder. In a pinch, turns out some old phone line cord is solid strand and actually works like a champ. The. i had to splice them together, hence the excessive cable. Got a crimper/female dupont connectors coming tomorrow, so that drama should end. I initially put the grid lines in, but think I’m leaving them out (or maybe just snap in) so I can use it to show a DED or whatever if ai fly other jets. Thanks for being kind enough to share the plans, have had a few snags a long the way with some things not printing perfectly (I suck as trying to make the keypad font work), but am amazed how tight of a fit everything is could have never pieced that all together myself. 2
MillKris Posted October 9, 2023 Author Posted October 9, 2023 @Rainmaker Awesome! I noticed you're using the BBI 64. I just ordered mine as well. Just a heads up, I initially uploaded the wrong 'UFC Display Button,' which caused some interference with the display when pressed. I've since replaced them with the correct ones, 'UFC Display Button v2'.
Rainmaker Posted October 13, 2023 Posted October 13, 2023 On 10/9/2023 at 8:53 AM, MillKris said: @Rainmaker Awesome! I noticed you're using the BBI 64. I just ordered mine as well. Just a heads up, I initially uploaded the wrong 'UFC Display Button,' which caused some interference with the display when pressed. I've since replaced them with the correct ones, 'UFC Display Button v2'. Hey! Thanks for that. The keypad buttons were def a bit of a fight for me. Even with the new ones, I had a heck of a time getting them to work around the display frame. Definitely a tight fit and tight tolerances. Hot glue to help dry fit is def your friend IMO. With that said, I finally won the battle, I believe. Had to do some audibles on the BBI board to get the cabling routed where I was okay with it. The lower frame made for a descent place to mount the monitor boards. If I had to do it all over again, I probably would have made some sort of table that fit over the screen with a bit of elevation on it to keep if off the back so I could have mounted everything onto it. I wasnt doing that all over again though. Haha. Bit of a rat’s nest with the wires, but I am tired of soldering so as long as it all holds, its staying as is. I just need to figure out how I’m going to mount it to my WW mounts. At this point, probably going to just do a piece of 1/4” ply across the back and bolt through the mounts. TBD. 1
MillKris Posted October 13, 2023 Author Posted October 13, 2023 @Rainmaker I would recommend starting with a test print for the buttons to see how the fit is. If necessary, you can scale down X and Y until it fits. This also depends on the printer. In my case, the buttons fit perfectly. In this instance, the STL files have already been scaled down by 1%. I'm glad to hear that you're making progress. 1
Rainmaker Posted October 16, 2023 Posted October 16, 2023 Finally had some time to finish and get it mounted temporarily for testing. Curious as to whether anyone else is having the same issue or perhaps knows what the cause might be. The main menu is fine, but all the submenus get garbled text and ghosting of previous menu text on the screen. Super weird and never seen the issue before. I might try flipping the exports around to different screens when I get some spare time.
MillKris Posted October 17, 2023 Author Posted October 17, 2023 looks very good! The malfunctioning UFC export appears to be a bug. I'm optimistic that it will be rectified in the upcoming update
Rainmaker Posted October 17, 2023 Posted October 17, 2023 10 hours ago, MillKris said: looks very good! The malfunctioning UFC export appears to be a bug. I'm optimistic that it will be rectified in the upcoming update Thank you! For the words and the build plans. I wondered if it was a bug or not. I’ll try messing around with it. Would be the first time I’ve seen an exported diplay have that issue so it was a weird one. Can bring it up with the devs and see if they might have any ideas on a solution.
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