jepessen Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hi. I've a new Saitek X52 Pro that I like a lot. The only thing that I don't like too much is the joystick spring that, in my opinion, is too soft. Have you tried to change this spring with an harder one? I've googled a bit but I did not found anything useful. I'd like to have some suggestion about the new spring and how I can change it. Do you think that's possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlidfan Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 The only discussions regarding the spring that I have come across were all related to making it less stiff!! I have cable ties holding mine to make it softer. Going the other way is a much bigger issue. ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sel94 Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Yeah I find mine too be too soft also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaljjd Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 The probably most easy thing to do is, buy the right sized cymbal felt washers and slip them under the spring. They can be cut to slip on and come in different thicknesses. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galagamo Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 This might help http://www.lockonfiles.com/index.php/topic/29552-how-to-increase-tension-in-x-52-spring-video-link-for-fix/ [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] OS:WIN7 HP X64|MOBO:ASRock Z68|CPU:I52500k@4Ghz|RAM:12Gb 3x4Gb GSkill Ripjaws 9-9-9-24 @1600Mhz|GPU:ASUS GTX580|HDD:2x128Gb Crucial sataIII SSD raid0|PSU:Antek 1000watt|Case:Antek 1200|Peripherals: TMWH|Saitek ProFlight rudder pedals|TrackIr4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BTTW-DratsaB Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 The probably most easy thing to do is, buy the right sized cymbal felt washers and slip them under the spring. They can be cut to slip on and come in different thicknesses. lol Im a drummer and never thought of doing this :doh: My biggest problem with the X52 is the way the base plate "grinds" and sticks when doing fine movements. At the moment I too use 2 cable ties to reduce the pressure, a Cymbal felt might do nicely to keep it smooth. Ty for the tip :) Specs: GA-Z87X-UD3H, i7-4770k, 16GB, RTX2060, SB AE-5, 750watt Corsair PSU, X52, Track IR4, Win10x64. Sim Settings: Textures: ? | Scenes: ? |Water: ? | Visibility Range: ? | Heat Blur: ? | Shadows: ? | Res: 1680x1050 | Aspect: 16:10 | Monitors: 1 Screen | MSAA: ? | Tree Visibility: ? | Vsync: On | Mirrors: ? | Civ Traffic: High | Res Of Cockpit Disp: 512 | Clutter: ? | Fullscreen: On Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge55 Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 When I was using the X-52Pro and the stick movement started to bind or stick I tried a bunch of different suggestions from the Saitek forums. The one that worked for me was a liquid fabric softener I applied a little on the collar and shaft and it didn't stick or bind again. Good luck [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] i7 10700K OC 5.1GHZ / 500GB SSD & 1TB M:2 & 4TB HDD / MSI Gaming MB / GTX 1080 / 32GB RAM / Win 10 / TrackIR 4 Pro / CH Pedals / TM Warthog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacotito Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Plumbers grease from lowes or berkley fishing rod grease will fix the sticking problem. DON'T USE OIl. It has to be a specific kind...I think lithium but search lowes.com for plumbers grease since I can't remember what kind....here you go http://m.lowes.com/mt/www.lowes.com/pd_817-1409-GR2V-D_0__?productId=3350380&Ntt=Plumbers+grease&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3DPlumbers%2Bgrease&facetInfo=...it has to be silicone so it doesn't eat the plastic Pacotito I7-5820k@4.5 Z99 extreme4 16gb ddr4 520gb ssd. Gigabyte ssc GTX960 SSC 4gb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlidfan Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 lol Im a drummer and never thought of doing this :doh: My biggest problem with the X52 is the way the base plate "grinds" and sticks when doing fine movements. At the moment I too use 2 cable ties to reduce the pressure, a Cymbal felt might do nicely to keep it smooth. Ty for the tip :) One suggestion I saw was to use trombone slide lube between the spring and the metal plate. There are several different kinds so I have not tried that yet. The ties do help but it still needs something. I guess I could get both at the same place. I can see me explaining myself. This should be better than my last trip to Lowes'!:D ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reemit0772 Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) The Saitek spring bizzo always bugged me. I had the old serial X36F during the dark ages, then got the X45. The X36 didn't have the external spring bodge up system. I was so miffed with the X45 and its McPherson strut :joystick:that I spent a week swapping all the gizzards around so that I could have the new system with the smoother feedback and centering of the X36. It worked great:thumbup: until the hall effect hit the streets. Edited July 8, 2011 by reemit0772 i5/9600K wc, Z390XP, 32Gb/DDR4, 1080ti wc, 850 Evo SSD, TMWH, DSD FLT1, ORs. A10C, UH1, MI8, BF109K4, SA342M, L39C, M2000C, Mig21BIS, Mig15, F86, C101, Hawk, F-14, F-5E, Spitfire MkIX, AV8B N/A, FA-18C, P51-D, Yak 52, Mig19p, F-16C, JF-17 OPF, Red Flag2, MusRel, BnboB, Tbs, TEW 3.0, TTQ, MI8 OFC, SC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Do this and don't look back Re eastern ways of tearing things apart :) - the first day I got my X52 Pro I did the hall sensors mod (because some idiot at Saitek decided to use moving parts there and he didn't even know he'll get heavy non-linear characteristics - sic!). A month later or so (why so late - don't ask me...) I ripped out the whole lots-of-play-and-constant-force centering mechanism What I got? No play (except that on the gimbal mechanism which is insolvable without replacing the whole mechanism) and variable force + no transition bump when going past the neutrum. F-4E Phantom module for sale -25% non-Steam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jepessen Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 How did you calibrated it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 How did you calibrated it? If you're asking me - it selfcalibrates every time you restart computer. It's best to rest your hand on the stick during computer restart. F-4E Phantom module for sale -25% non-Steam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jepessen Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I understand... I didn't know anyting about self-calibration... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Few notes: - disassembling X-52 series stick to get to the mechanism or even just inside the stick grip is tricky and it's easy to damage something. I'll post some pictures if I haven't deleted them yet. - removing centering mechanism require cutting the whole wire harness inside the stick shaft. Obviously re-soldering is required. There's extremely little space for any additional insulation or bulges and the harness is very short. - after the soldering is done it's best to perform a functional test before reassembling the whole stick case etc. Please remind me via PM if I won't post for more than 2 days. F-4E Phantom module for sale -25% non-Steam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterP Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Did a quick goggle search: X52 wiki washer for more friction: Picture gallery of dissembling the X52 (Russian): http://www.saitek.ru/other/x52inside/ Text description how to dissembling X52 (no pics): http://www.ehow.com/how_7794831_disassemble-saitek-x52-joystick.html Video of dissembling and and adding a extension: http://www.veoh.com/watch/v6497552bqS49mte Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 The more friction / stiffer spring mod baffles me. It brings out the very fundamentals of what's wrong with X-52 centering mechanism. F-4E Phantom module for sale -25% non-Steam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts