-Ice's A-10 pit - first time pit builder

[Succellus]

You seem to be an experienced wood cutter, all your work seem clean and neat.

Huh just dont forget you have to enter and exit the pit, with side intruments it can be tricky.

Hinges ? wheels ? (there s silicon wheels with brakes that can be locked. i used them for my seat so they wouldn t scrap the floor like normal plastic wheels do)

[Ragtop]

You're doing a fantastic job Ice, very impressed by your centre console so far.

[hog_driver111th]

Feel "free" to send me a bunch here in Germany. I can build me wife something and maybe build the pit too. It's getting permission to get the supplies I have a hard time with!

[Gadroc]

Looking good Ice. I can't wait to get mine started. I'm working on lining up time on a CNC to get mine panels cut out. I know better than to think I can do as good a job as you cutting it by hand.

[HitchHikingFlatlander]

Outstanding work Ice really looks good! Weren't you nervous about all the cutting at first, look at you now!

[PanelBuilder]

Nice work! Nice write-up too.

 

Colin

[-Ice]

Thanks for the complements guys! Aseembling the entire thing now, figuring out how to attach each part to the rest.

 

And wondering how to do the Dzus rails on the panels. Awww, do I have to?

[98abaile]

I noticed you said you were going to drop the height of the front panel (someone else said they would do the same thing), you also said the seat was a little low. Is there any reason why you couldn't just remove the console and floor risers and just drop the entire front of the pit down a few inches?

[dimebug]

good progress :-)

[-Ice]

Thanks Dimebug! Wouldn't be possible without your plans!

 

98abaile, my front panel is exactly as in Dimebug's plans... well, not exactly coz I haven't cut out the angles yet, but height-wise and width-wise, it is exact. The reason I'd rather play with the seat height is because it is easier to do so and it's just like a pilot adjusting the seat height in the aircraft. To do this on the consoles means I'll have to recalculate and screw/attach/remove the necessary risers.

[dimebug]

the plans are made to be used. I really appreciate to see people using them and 'im now thinking of the next project (probably a WWII warbird).

[-Ice]

Here's my latest progress report!

 

 

Built some braces for the front panel, cut to the right height for my monitor. With this, my "eye level" is about the top 1/3 of the monitor, which is just about right for me. Again, I am following my "I will not screw MDF-to-MDF" rule.

 

 

 

 

 

I've sorted out a mount for my TM Warthog joystick as well. I prefer this method because if I needed to remove my stick for any reason, all I have to do is unscrew the four screws on the top and sorted! I'm screwing MDF-to-MDF on this one though, but the plan later is to have a bolt running clear through, just like in my seat assembly.

 

 

 

 

 

Found some 25mm "cable tube" from B&Q, hoping to build a stick extender.

 

 

 

 

Also, here is a pic of my new, higher seat!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I must admit at this point that stick extender is more like a "proof of concept." The way I made it to bend was to heat up the tube for a moment and then bend it by hand, then cool quickly through the cold tap water to "hold" the bend. However, the bends are a bit wonky and bending too suddenly means the tube will fold unto itself, so passing a USB cable through it will be impossible... does anyone know a better way of bending a plastic tube?

Edited October 11, 2011 by -Ice

[Ragtop]

You'll need to mandrel bend the tube if you don't want it to collapse on itself. Find a ball or something similar that you can fit in the tube at the position you're bending, heat the tube and bend it with the ball in place. Wait for it to cool and hold, then remove the ball. You may want to put your ball on a string so you can remove it easily after.

[Pogo]

Back in the old days we used to pack the tube with sand, bend it and then pour the sand out. of course this was with small diameter brass tubing but I suppose it could work on plastic.

 

Just a thought.

 

Cheers,

Pogo

[dimebug]

Fill the tube with sand and block sand at each end. Warm carfully the aera you want to blend and use a larger tube diameter as a "round" guide.

Sand is here to avoid the tube to collapse too much and the use of the other tube external diameter il make your blending more regulars and aestetics.

[CrashEd]

Wow! Ice you've really made progress! When we spoke the other day you were on your way down to B&Q, now you have a constructed pit!! Good work!

 

WRT the extension tube for the stick, if you are unsuccessful with the plastic tube, why not use a metal tube and borrow a pipe bender off a mate/plumber? Ok, you'll have to paint it, which means more work, but it could be another option. Just a thought!

 

Loving the pit build thread :) Very jealous! :mad: :D

[-Ice]

Thanks for the advice regarding tube bending. The sand does help the tube keep shape, but only up to a degree. My shape still ended up with a few kinks, but looks loads better than the last one. Here are some pics of my test bends.

 

 

 

 

Here is my bending "template," I'm thinking bigger nails and smaller spacing between nails will help reduce the kinks in the bent tube.

 

 

 

 

Finally put in the 6mm MDF panels on the side consoles. I've not put any rails on the side consoles, instead screwing the MDF to the rib assemblies. This will have to do until I figure out how to do the actual instrument panels, and even then I'll just probably remove the MDF as an instrument panel takes its place. Also cut out the front instrument panel and fit my TM MFCDs.

 

 

 

 

 

Crash, thanks for the kind words. Had to "rush" this project since the longer it'll take, the lazier I'll be. That and I had loads of free time last week being my holiday from work. I would've considered a metal pipe but could not find one of 25mm diameter, which is how wide my joystick extender holders are. Plus I prefer bending the tubes myself.

 

As you can see, the pit is pretty much 90% complete. The instrument panels and switches will come as I get the budget for it, and will definitely be a WIP for months to come. Probably try to figure out how to fit a monitor on the front panel for instruments, but no rush there as well. On the immediate to-do list is a CDU panel and AHCP, but will have to wait until my funding is approved. :thumbup:

 

Now just need to give this a proper wipe to get rid of all the wood dust, and assemble it in the computer room!

[Ragtop]

Looking great so far man! Need to order myself some MFD's on pay day, got a couple of weeks yet!

 

How are you finding the strength of the return spring on the throttle? Do you have to help it back or is it ok? I'm considering maybe a couple of inches extension so I have some more stick precision.

[-Ice]

I've not played with it on the PC yet, but yes, you'd have to help the stick back to center. On 40% to full deflection, the weight of the stick can keep it in place. I'll have to see how this works in-game.

 

However, I've played most of my DCS A10 games with a stick extender, so can't imagine playing without it now. The downside of using a car seat instead of an ACES II replica is having to fashion a fancy-schmancy extender tube rather than using the replica extension which only has 2 bends in it.

[Total]

Rather than using bends, have you though of using 45 degree elbows?

 

It won't look as fluid, but you would avoid the kinking in the tubing.

[-Ice]

I've thought of that yes. I'm thinking of using a 90-degree one for the bend just before the stick handle as that's the trickiest one; if I can do that, the rest of the bends are easy-peasy.

[Pogo]

Hi Ice,

 

Just a couple things.

 

The stick in A-10C isn't shaped like that, a more accurate example would be as you see it in this photo-

 

 

Granted, that is an A-10A, but while the grip changes in the C model, the stick doesn't. This should be far easier to bend than what you are trying to do.

 

Also, here is a very quick sketch I did of a DIY tubing bender you could build.

 

 

The important details are

 

- The bottom disk should be the same radius as the bend you want to put on the tube.

 

- The bottom disk should be of the same depth as the diameter of the tubing you are bending.

 

- The top disk is fastened to the bottom disk and serves to support the sides of the tube and keep the sides from collapsing outward.

 

You should still pack the tube as tightly with sand as you can. Try to keep the tubing from sliding or rotating as you bend it.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

Pogo

[-Ice]

Thanks for that Pogo. Unfortunately, I am using a car seat and not an ACES II replica, which means I do not have the center-gap on the seat, thus the fancy-schmancy extender.

[Lumper]

Take metal to car muffler shop and have them bend it. Should be quick and easy. They probably have 25mm piece of tubing also.

[Scooternutz]

WOW!