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Posted

You're Awesome!!

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Posted

so, phidgets servo is on brink of official support , yey, just in time :D

but where are the new toggles for the AHCP?

 

can i trouble you with request for a close-up shot of Flap gauge (did your panel came witha real gauge or is this your work? ) and the 3 "SAFE" LDG indicatrors please/

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

Posted

New toggles are next on my list. I have already cut the new switch plate I need to unmount the current panel and transfer over the wiring. Unfortunately that means soldering as the NKK switches are solder lugs instead of screw terminals.

 

The flaps gauges is fully my work. I used paulrk's photo on page 18 of this thread as a reference. I'll be posting up the full DXF files for my gauge.

Posted
New toggles are next on my list. I have already cut the new switch plate I need to unmount the current panel and transfer over the wiring. Unfortunately that means soldering as the NKK switches are solder lugs instead of screw terminals.

 

The flaps gauges is fully my work. I used paulrk's photo on page 18 of this thread as a reference. I'll be posting up the full DXF files for my gauge.

 

You can use these:

 

741cce65e2c01c50b665087.jpg

 

Available at any hardware/electrical store :)

Posted

Hey Gadroc, are you using the laser engraver you bought to cut and engrave or did you end up using your access to the CNC (at work?) to cut, then use the laser engraver to etch? I'm asking because I'm going BACK AND FORTH about whether to build/buy a rotary CNC or go ahead and deal with the cheap Chinese laser engraver (they are still selling them like crazy on ebay for about $900). After using yours what would you have done given 20/20 hindsight?

Posted

if you don't mind i'll answer as i own the same: if you accept the fact that ~800$ from ebay does not give you ready to work machine, its limited work are is the only downside . upgrade of controller is mandatory IMHO . being on small size causes less then optimal material usage, much more attention required to reduce waste. and the hassle to cut material to fit in. today i'd go for a bigger one.

metallandwood here gave a link to awesome machine (for the money).

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

Posted

I'd highly recommend checking out this thread.

 

Short answers from me. I think Laser is the tool I'd pick if I could only have just one. You can build a lot of things out of flat acrylic sheets once you understand the build process.

 

I got my K40 machine for $750 delivered. You'll spend $800 more to make that a serviceable machine. With a $900 + $800 price your are close to some of those smaller import machines that metalnwood points out. I'd take a close look at them.

Posted

I'm almost finished with my AVU-22 build and thought I'd post some quick pictures. This is a two stepper instrument. I have one 400 step nema 17 which will drive the needle and a 48 step can motor to run the drum. I have geared down the drum to be 100 steps. I'm going to try to use my Phidgets stepper driver for this one. I believe it should be able to drive these fast enough for this gauge.

 

I'll get it hooked up and running sometime tomorrow and then finish the bezel.

 

8391597190_51ce67cbff_b.jpg

 

8391597316_0f3a51a15f_b.jpg

Posted

The needle, can and glass for this are salvaged out of a H6L vertical speed gauge. Helios always returns steppers to 0 on stop. So I only need to "reset" zero is on a software crash.

Posted
Looks great:thumbup: What are you thinking of using for the second needle?

 

Thanks. I'm not sure yet. I may leave out the barber pole as it's non functional in game anyways. I do have a model to cut out of my lasermax stuff to see if that will looks good. If that works it would probably be glued in place and non moving.

 

Ironically I think the needles are the hardest part of gauges. Real ones are very thin metal. I don't have access to machinery to cut that kind material with the accuracy I do for thicker materials. 1/16th thick white ones don't always look right.

Posted

Here is a short video of the IAS in action, along with a cameo of my landing gear panel.

 

 

The drum is a little jerky right now. The unipolar driver board I'm using right now will only half step. That along with a canstepper and my first try at gear placement leaves a little play. Once I get my EOS stepper boards done it will be eighth steeping which should smooth out this quite a bit. Also my stepper board can drive the primary needle about 3x faster than this board.

 

I still need to put a coat of paint on the bezel. It's not the right bezel but it's close enough for now. I didn't want to try and fit the glass in a custom bezel, nor deal with embeding the right nuts to be able to fasten the can to it. I just cut some acrylic to surround the existing H-6L bezel and lock it in place.

Posted

it is a bit jerky , but not to bad. as far as speed i think that would be more critical for Altimeter and VVI. looking towards your EOS boards :)

 

Gadroc, your advice on working with lasermax is appreciated. it got engraved and cut just fine, perhaps a ted to deep. what i have trouble with is debris removal. tried brushing it out, tried using masking tape, but still the lettering is full of black. how do you remove it? wash it under running water perhaps?

thanks!

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

Posted

First is make sure you are engraving from bottom up so that the exhaust fan is not sucking residue over already engraved areas. You do this in laser cad via position relative. I use lower left. Now when you set your origin it will be the bottom left of the engrave instead of the top left.

 

Second cleaning it should be done under running water. I dump a bunch of dish soap on the surface and then use a sponge to lightly remove residue under running water.

Posted

First engraving is lost, can't remove those tiny black specs from the grooves. I think I made it worst by trying to brush it away first. Lasermax seems to be sticky right after laser process and now even soapy water can't remove the resedue. I will try to let it sit a bit before attempting cleaning. Luckily Not a big loss.

 

Engraving bottom up sounds like it will help, thanks for thr tip Gadroc. Still the most damage was done by brushing .

 

Film, I'm already engraving at minimal power settings , I can only increase speed but not to much as its already running at 200mm/sec.

 

Engraving seems to be very deep , I think that is due to 0,05mm step, while it provides smooth lines the laser passes several times over each point.

 

Overall I like that material,cuts nicely and engraving was very vibrant . until I brushed the dirt into sticky grooves that is.

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

Posted
First engraving is lost, can't remove those tiny black specs from the grooves. I think I made it worst by trying to brush it away first. Lasermax seems to be sticky right after laser process and now even soapy water can't remove the resedue. I will try to let it sit a bit before attempting cleaning. Luckily Not a big loss.

 

Engraving bottom up sounds like it will help, thanks for thr tip Gadroc. Still the most damage was done by brushing .

 

Film, I'm already engraving at minimal power settings , I can only increase speed but not to much as its already running at 200mm/sec.

 

Engraving seems to be very deep , I think that is due to 0,05mm step, while it provides smooth lines the laser passes several times over each point.

 

Overall I like that material,cuts nicely and engraving was very vibrant . until I brushed the dirt into sticky grooves that is.

 

Engraving bottom up and making sure you have a layer of dish soap in the white before you start lightly brushing and it will work fine.

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