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Posted (edited)
I dont know for sure, this is just a guess, but I would assume there isnt an override for the auto rad flaps, and the manual operation is there mostly for operation when the automation is damaged, but its a guess as I said, maybe someone else knows....

 

Well when I watch Matt waggs taxi take off lesson he says to open radiator pressing Ralt+A at warm up,so he is over riding it before he even takes off. Ralt +A is an invalid command FYI.I do a complete warm up most time's I fly unless I am in a hurry and the Temp's are just fine so I don't know what Matt wag's is trying to achieve here.

 

Anyway it's confusing .Maybe we need a real luftwufer to sort this out.

P.S Anyone feel free to copy and paiste the last few Radiator comments and start a new thread.

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Posted
Well when I watch Matt waggs taxi take off lesson he says to open radiator pressing Ralt+A at warm up,so he is over riding it before he even takes off. Ralt +A is an invalid command FYI.I do a complete warm up most time's I fly unless I am in a hurry and the Temp's are just fine so I don't know what Matt wag's is trying to achieve here.

 

Anyway it's confusing .Maybe we need a real luftwufer to sort this out.

 

 

Yeah, I dont open my Rads personally, but the notes I have seen do say to do so, although it also follows up by saying not to operate them manual a lot besides this, it doesnt say why though.... perhaps risk of losing sync with the engine?

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Posted

The manual says to keep the temps around 100 for water and between 110-130 mark on the oil. If you hold the radiator switch open for about 15 seconds it seems to keep it pretty close to this range no matter what. If you fully open it (around 30 seconds from what I can tell) it seems to keep the engine way under that mark and I think its around a 15km-25km reduction in speed. Someone else could check it. Most engine losses seems to be from continuous climbs or circling climbs usually in combat with full power so I will watch that. I don't yank the throttle around but usually leave it in one place.

Posted
The manual says to keep the temps around 100 for water and between 110-130 mark on the oil. If you hold the radiator switch open for about 15 seconds it seems to keep it pretty close to this range no matter what. If you fully open it (around 30 seconds from what I can tell) it seems to keep the engine way under that mark and I think its around a 15km-25km reduction in speed. Someone else could check it. Most engine losses seems to be from continuous climbs or circling climbs usually in combat with full power so I will watch that. I don't yank the throttle around but usually leave it in one place.

 

Yes I tested what you said and I agree 15sec is spot on.

  • 8 months later...
Posted

After reading about the radiator, I know that Ralt+A for 15 seconds and all, but

I have sat in the cockpit and searched all over and for the life of me cannot

find that switch anywhere ? I started to think I must be wrong and that I

did not read this about the Dora, but that it must have been the K4 or something

but coming back here and seeing this again, I know it was here.

 

I may have read about a Cowling thing somewhere else, but that is what

I get for looking for info about a ton of DCS planes.

 

I sure like that I can get help on-line and I appreciate it very much.

Posted

Hi Mike,

 

It´s in front of you, but you won´t see it unless you go down with you view.

Press RCTRL+RShift+Num2 all the way down. It is the "round" knob. Press Num5 to return to you normal view.

 

Fox

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Posted

Many times after I take off, one of my wheels will not go up. Granted I may hit the rudder

a little here or there, but Im not braking at all. Its kind of hard to believe that a plane

that could land in the grass would have a wheel strut or something break from a little

rough treatment going down a runway ???

 

I feel like just always starting over as having a wheel down makes me slow

and just not aerodynamic enough to continue on, for dog fighting.

 

Any advice would be very helpful.

 

Mike

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