My TARDIS

[Hansolo]

Really nice work Mac. Much cleaner than the solution I used :thumbup: Hope it's nothing serious with your wife :cry:

 

Cheers

Hans

[MacFevre]

Thanks Hans. Nope, everything's ok and we're home now, thank you.

[Boltz]

Very good work. Looks nice!

[Mr_Burns]

How does that work please Mac?

 

Do you remove the copper with that solution and cover the places you want it to remain?

 

Also, I am not electrician - what do the diodes do in this setup??

 

I like the idea of making some break out boards for panels where they share a bodnar.

 

Thanks

[TigersharkBAS]

How does that work please Mac?

 

Do you remove the copper with that solution and cover the places you want it to remain?

 

Also, I am not electrician - what do the diodes do in this setup??

 

I like the idea of making some break out boards for panels where they share a bodnar.

 

Thanks

 

Hey Burnsy. You need to Google DIY pcb kits. You basically iron a circuit board design printed on laser printer on a special board that is all copper. You then soak it in a solution that eats away all the copper except those tracks you laid out in your design.

 

See here: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Printed-circuit-board/

 

As for the diodes. The most common function of a diode is to allow an electric current to pass in one direction (called the diode's forward direction), while blocking current in the opposite direction (the reverse direction). Thus, the diode can be viewed as an electronic version of a check valve.

 

Why exactly they are required for Bodnar boards (his latest ones do not seem to need them) I am not entirely sure. I suspect he uses them as protection devices for the main IC. They can protect against voltage spikes.

[Duckling]

Hi Mac. Reason far asking was I see no holes in the PCB to fasten it to a surface. Could be added later of couse. I started to use slotted frames in rack 2-4U hight, to organize PCBs and other cards more easily and tighter (some of'em hot glued on a plexi sheet with correct size of the frame). May seems like an overkill but out it is flexible and real neat.

Cheers

Gus

[MacFevre]

No, that sounds great. I honestly never even thought about the holes! For the first one, I was overjoyed with the outcome. Like my pit build, I guess. Now I'm seeing all kinds of things I'd like to change. ;)

[Mr_Burns]

Hey Burnsy. You need to Google DIY pcb kits. You basically iron a circuit board design printed on laser printer on a special board that is all copper. You then soak it in a solution that eats away all the copper except those tracks you laid out in your design.

 

See here: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Printed-circuit-board/

 

As for the diodes. The most common function of a diode is to allow an electric current to pass in one direction (called the diode's forward direction), while blocking current in the opposite direction (the reverse direction). Thus, the diode can be viewed as an electronic version of a check valve.

 

Why exactly they are required for Bodnar boards (his latest ones do not seem to need them) I am not entirely sure. I suspect he uses them as protection devices for the main IC. They can protect against voltage spikes.

 

Cheers buddy, it seems I cant give you rep before i spread it around more! Must have given you too much - Rep +1!

[MacFevre]

Yes, thanks Tiger. You answered perfectly before I got the chance. And yes, burns, it will eat everything except for what is covered. Even a sharpie drawn line will prevent it from eating it away. I was really surprised at how easy it is. The basic hard part is creating the actual drawing with either a program like Fritzing (real easy) or Eagle (large learning curve) or you can even use a decal kit. Anything else you need to know, don't hesitate to ask! If I don't know, I, or someone, will certainly try to help.

[MacFevre]

My TARDIS

 

Just a small update. Seeing Deadman's latest pics inspired me to make a glareshield. This one is strictly a mock-up, though. All it is is simple construction paper, wood, and thin aluminum. I Just to wanted to see what problems I'd run into before trying to cut any metal or waste a bunch of time. Are there still problems with it? Absolutely. But then again, it's just a pretend of a pretend piece. But at least it gets me something to look at when I do finally make the correct glareshield. ;)

Edited July 28, 2014 by MacFevre
repeat photo

[Duckling]

Nice !!

Wheels up = time for a beer ? :-)

[MacFevre]

Since I don't have a landing gear panel yet, I installed my trusty gyro cup holder in its place. :) so time for both! :D still a lot to go, though. (Including version 2.0) Now to get the I/O sorted.

[agrasyuk]

Looking good.

Did you adjust curves for your stick or using as is? How do you find the motion range of the stick, legs interfere much?

[MacFevre]

I haven't noticed that anything interferes with the stick at that height. The only time I really mess with the curves after the initial setup is when I'm trying to refuel. I still can't do that to save my life. I can be rock steady till 10 feet or so, then all of a sudden I start over correcting. Everything.

[MacFevre]

Had a question for anyone who might be able to help. Anyone used a real TACAN panel? Silly me, I thought maybe I could just pin it out myself forgetting that this is just a control head for the receiver box down in the E&E compartment. (Assuming that the A-10 hasn't E&E compartment? Or are the boxes just all spread out all over the place?)

 

Anyway, is there any way to either get a schematic of the controller head, or has anyone converted one to simulator use? In other words, do I need to tear the whole thing apart and try to simply wire the actual components, or replace the actual components with simple ones? The only one I was able to pin out was the volume knob and the receiver on knob.

[Hansolo]

Hi MacFevre,

 

Initially I though of trying to map the original switches but lately I have come to the conclusion that I probably will persue the path of changing out the switch to something like this:

http://dk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/FR01AR16HB-S/?NKK-Switches/FR01AR16HB-S/&qs=sGAEpiMZZMsfGXvUAbE5P%252bDPpnailAhUNzTiOz9ju%252bE=

 

It enables me to get 16 positions (0-15) using only 4 input. I still have to check whether the turn per position is inline with the change of one digit on the drum.

 

Cheers

Hans

[Deadman]

Lets get together same bat time same bat Chanel . I can pull the panel and we can check out the simulator conversion more closely

[MacFevre]

Copy!

[tacno]

Hi MacFevre,

I saw your canopy swicth panel and seat switch panel are missing. I wrote article, perhaps, help you or motivate you :smilewink:

Too, I saw your pipe of the stike. How did you do ? Thanks.

[MacFevre]

Really sorry Tacno! I did not even see this until just now. I actually purchased the stick extension from whartsell.

 

And I did see your articles. I always keep a good eye on your site. Believe me, you are always motivating me! :)

[MacFevre]

Past time for an update. I keep plugging away at this thing, slowly but surely. Publicly want to thank Deadman for his invaluable information so I can make it as accurate as possible.

 

Questions before update. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but are all the main instruments, VVI, AS, ADI, HSI, Alt, and the four in the cluster next to the AHCP, do they all have a 1/2" thick bezel? The RWR, is that 3" or 2 3/4"? I think it's 3, but it looks smaller. And if anyone has any information for how I might mod a two position switch to a three position switch I would greatly appreciate it. Here is the switch as it is now.

 

I want to stress anyone wanting to build their own pit, if you want it accurate and/or able to mix and match various sources of panels and materials, take the time to do it right the first time. I wound up jumping into it, and now I'm finding loads of errors that I have to correct. If you do it right, it will be just as fun making it as flying it. (And you won't have to plan for version 2.0!)

 

I took off my Main Instrument Panel. I wanted to simply build some bezels for it and add the four indicators above the RWR and VVI. Found out that for whatever reason, probably because I didn't think I would want to make it as realistic as possible and now I do, that my MIP instruments weren't placed in the right spots. I put them way too high on the panel. I could just make an entirely new MIP, but without having the right template, I will save that until I do. But I did want to correct it as much as possible, so I've started moving all the gauges down about an inch or so.

 

In keeping with my "ship-fitters" philosophy, I'm cutting out all instruments to the openings they should be so I can use bezels. Not sure what I will use yet between the bezels and the screen behind it to close up the small gap. Probably foam? Haven't got there yet. Want to use real gauges, but that will wait for v. 2.0.

 

Got some time this holiday, so hope to make more updates with pictures. In the meantime, here's a quick pic of the light cluster just below the glareshield.

Edited December 9, 2014 by MacFevre
forgot question on bezels

[Mike Powell]

I believe the RWR (IP-1310/ALR) bezel is 3" square as per MS33556.

[MacFevre]

Thanks Mike! I guess it is a 3" (technically 2.875.) I could have sworn it looked smaller. Oh, and thanks for your books. They're a great reference.

 

And wow, don't know what standards I've been looking at, but they are not all 1/2". My bad.

Edited December 10, 2014 by MacFevre

[Deadman]

Guys take a closer look at MS33556. You will find that the mounting holes are 3 inches apart. The out side dimension of the RWR is 3.25 inch by 3.25 as is the Airspeed and the AAU-34/A witch use the same case . The AAU-9/A vertical indicator uses the MS 33549 case.

Edited December 10, 2014 by Deadman

[MacFevre]

Correct, and the hole is 2.875. I just can't find a hole saw for 2 7/8, so I use 3.