trigen

Hi chaps The one thing im missing on my motion rig at the moment is the shaking you get in some jets on high G load, the F14 Tomcat for example shakes a lot. Also the Huey dash shake. Is there a specific thing to get these exported for motion trough Lua?

Yes

Thanks for the suggestion on the grip. the shift register got fried due to a short when a couple of wires got pinched and i couldnt find the wire fault after a lot of testing. Also the shift register soldering proved very difficult without a hot air station so that's on my list for purchases later on. Ive scavenged the buttons for another project though so its officially dead. In the meantime I took a chance and tried to connect the pins together to see if i could trick this polling that seems to happen after 1 minute and it has done the trick! I haven't seen any increase in heat anywhere using a IR thermometer. Guess i got lucky cause i was looking at a daunting task!

Been doing some more testing on the S3 and shutdown. Sometimes pressing S3 above idle detent and then going down will not trigger shutdown until S3 is pressed. Sometimes it wont. Its somewhat random. With both shutdown/startup options off in the profile it will still shut down and will start engines if S3 is pressed above idle. Honestly though. Dont spend much time on this. When my stick lights up it seems to cause a total meltdown and buttons that works just fine before are just screwed. Need to sort this trough hardware. Ill look at the scripts but im guessing its a big job if even possible to turn off just the cougars grip. Edit. Managed to solve the HW issue with connecting 2 pins.

Hello chaps Years back i was unlucky and caused a short on my grip but i had the WH so i didnt mind. But i'd like to use the CTS Cougar/WH profiles now and its Fing things up. Have any of you had this issue and managed to fix it? If i restart the stick it will be ok for a random short amount of time. 30 sec, 1 min or so if not touched The board is grounded. There are no wires or potentiometers to the connections. Tried to set max DZ on X Y, no change. Erased FW, reflashed. Throttle is working perfectly. Stick will reset if i remove unplug the throttle. Here's my issues in the CTD profile that ive also posted in the main post there. Perhaps its possible to avoid it but a proper fix would be good.

Thank you for the quick reply. F-16C profile. What buttons fail are random, sometimes just the Wh, Sometimes all the buttons but the axis still work. As for the joystick not working i haven't been able to replicate it in a meaningful way. It seems a bit random so i have to get back to you on that. It could all be related. I think i know what is going on with the shift stuff. Since my cougar does not have a stick connected all the buttons for the grip will light up when i move it. As you will see in the video lots of buttons are suddenly on and i have to press them to shut them down. My cougar grip thats not there lit up the buttons and some i could turn back off with the WH. My cougar does not have a button 30 but it will light up. Then every time i press the S3 shift button it will run the startup or shutdown sequence. Problem is that my grip board got fried long ago so i cant connect it. I can clear all the buttons trough pressing all the MFD and stick so its a workaround. Thats my issue: Here's my startup. There's also a couple of HW that cant be found. I dont know why they are there as its not configured for anything. *** Allocated ProcInstances found from the previous run: use FreeProcInstance() *** Mapped plugin module "C:\Program Files (x86)\Thrustmaster\TARGET\Plugins\sys.dll" Physical USB HID devices managed by script! Currently plugged USB HID devices[4]: 1: "Joystick - HOTAS Warthog" - "USB\VID_044F&PID_0402&REV_0100" 2: "F16 MFD 1" - "USB\VID_044F&PID_B351&REV_0100" 3: "HOTAS Cougar Joystick" - "USB\VID_044F&PID_0400&REV_0110&MI_00" 4: "F16 MFD 2" - "USB\VID_044F&PID_B352&REV_0100" USB HID device "Joystick - HOTAS Warthog"(USB\VID_044F&PID_0402\7&2F067C3E&0&4) selected USB HID device "F16 MFD 1"(USB\VID_044F&PID_B351\A&2EB5DB46&0&3) selected USB HID device "F16 MFD 2"(USB\VID_044F&PID_B352\A&2EB5DB46&0&4) selected USB HID device "HOTAS Cougar Joystick"(USB\VID_044F&PID_0400&MI_00\9&11691A82&0&0000) selected USB HID device with hardware id "VID_044F&PID_0405" cannot be found USB HID device with hardware id "VID_044F&PID_0406" cannot be found Virtual HID devices managed by script! Connecting virtual joystick...Done Device name set to Thrustmaster Combined Connecting virtual keyboard...Done Connecting virtual mouse (absolute axes)...Done DCS_Global() Start. DCS_Global() Finish. DCS_Init (Profile v2.48): DCS F-16C Viper Config (Profile v2.48): Map Cougar Left MFD (DX31)...Done! Map Cougar Right MFD (DX32)...Done! Map HOTAS for DCS F-16C Viper: Map Axes: Axis mapping Warthog Stick...Done! Axis Mapping TQS Main... Initializing Throttle Single Engine Start/Shutdown Routines...Done! Axis Mapping TQS Auxiliary...Done. Digital Aux Axis Mapping: Unmapping Microstick...Done. ...Done! Button Mapping: Shift Commands: S3 momentary...Done! Stick Buttons...Done! Init Trim for VR Users. Hat1 (Trim/Mouse)... TQS Buttons......Done! HOTAS Cougar Mapping Complete. Type 3 (Analog-Momentary) Airbrake Set. Brake Out = 1500 Brake In = 1500 Done. DCS F-16C Viper Init Complete! DCS F-16C MFD Defaults (0,0): F-16C Viper Config Complete! main returned 0

You can actually print it lying down so you dont get the layer issue and the threads will be just fine. It will be much stronger that way. You will get a small part thats flat and without threads since you need a tiny bit of space to keep it on the print bed but just keep that in the back and its no issue. For helicopters it does not matter as the forces are very light. Printing vertical is also quite fine as long as you dont bang it to hard. For the outer screw on the bottom its more difficult so you oversize things a lot. I also have mine with an internal alu rod so i can extend it as i wish. I had a sales post at one point but i only ever sold one and that was a long time after i posted it :)

First off, thanks for making this amazing software! CTS 2.48 and all the latest drivers as of today. Im having some issues though. I have a Warthog and a cougar. I use the WH stick and cougar throttle. Sometimes without any error my inputs will just stop working. Sometimes its just all the joystick buttons and sometimes i cant press anything. Sometimes but not always any keyboard input is also not working. Sometimes if i replug the WH and run the script again it will work. Sometimes it just wont do anything at all. The axis works but no buttons or nothing at all. There are no error messages. Its just extremely strange. It may be my WH going bonkers though but ive never had any issues outside of using this software. "If the Idle Detent Low End is set to a positive non-zero value, then pushing the throttle forward of the idle detent will initiate the engine start routine, and pulling the throttle back below idle while holding down S3 (to prevent inadvertent engine shutdown in flight) will initiate the engine shutdown routine." On the F16 It will just run shutdown regardless. S3 wont do anything. One more thing i observe is when i hold S3 which is the shift button it will just press and release it in event view. Is this correct? See attachment

Lo chaps Wondering if anyone has a hack that allows you to get the FFB signals to the MSFFB2 and use the pot signal from the ARD. The current workaround is to have a 100% DZ on the MS and assign both but it will make the stick shake like crazy in the game. Assigning just throttle as an example on the FFB dont work. Anything you can do in the config files?

Its better to have it for those with poor eyes , If you don't need you dont have to use it ;)

Im wondering. Since all the board hacks seems a bit daunting (i already have 1 extra resistor on) would it be possible to boost the current trough some sort of voltage/amp booster and just use the signals to new motors? Or would 3 resistor be fine with cooling? If not then ill try the full mod. Most of this stuff i can get but im not sure on the ceramic filters. "I added 1 ceramic filter capacitor next to main supply electrolytic capacitor" Would this just connect at the same place? I mean combine them?

Hi chaps I'd like to use a lot less weights on my hybrid MSSFB2 and the cougar/WH grip. My Cougar internal board is broken anyway cause of a short so ill hook that up with a Teensy .If anyone has the model finished it would save me a whole lot of work. Cant really find any online Please dont suggest getting things on Ebay, i got plenty of plastic and its far cheaper than buying an old stick on Ebay ;) Thanks!

Will do. I'm enjoying it apart from the minor issues so it's a good mix so far.

It was promised from the beginning and only took well, 6 years and we still don't know when. Charging anything for it would be a slap in the face. Also the problem with buying stuff before it's finished which sadly is the norm these days is that it's always going to be a roll of the dice. Im surprised to see it worked on really so props to (ED) them for doing it after all this time.

Thank you for the information about the cargo. Only had an issue with triggers when solo so hopefully there are not many issues throughout the campaign

Sorry i dont understand what you mean by this. If the first cargo gets damaged and i pick up the other 4 and bring them over the river i wont get any thank you message and it dont matter what i do from there. Wolf 1 just wont take off. Thats how far i got today as the cargo from the harbor happened to get damaged on release. As for the next leg in the same mission i can bring the troops up, then in went for cargo 2, then 3 which i though was a bit odd being directly under the wind sock and then the first one. After that it broke once again and i got a 20 min fuel warning. After that i just didnt feel like doing it again. As for things not getting triggered i cant remember the exact mission as i reinstalled windows and had to start over. You with Wolf 1 3, Then split and are to rejoin and land with them later. If you fly close to the mountain on the right side you wont get the trigger as its in the middle of the valley. Its just luck that i eventually got that right 3rd time doing it. I was on the 5th mission earlier with similar frustrations getting there (mostly with radios, thats on me) so i know it works but it really should not break so easily. I feels like it only has one condition/trigger where it should probably have 2-3 contingencies

Hello While i enjoy the campaign it really needs a trigger rework. The missions are rather long and I've had to quit missions due to grabbing cargo 2 first then tried to pick it back up and just release it. Suddenly you 20 minutes of fuel and cant do anything. I've flown at tree level around the mountain only to figure out 30 minutes later that you need to fly to the middle of the valley before it gets triggered and other silly issues. It feels like if you go a little bit off script it will break down. Ill just put this on the shelf for now.

Just add dcs.Exe trough add non steam game to your library and then go to preferences for it and include in vr library. Then it will show up and work as normal

Seems both of the latest has bugs. I cant bind (some buttons) things properly nor change the button mode on any buttons once you start getting to +33 or so. Also i can bind one 7 in 1 switch but the other one that is exactly the same wont work properly in the v20161101 or the upd but works fine in the earlier version 2015118. If you got less than 30 buttons you will probably be ok.

Cool so this would solve the middle push button issue completely then? For the easy way with 2 connection to the ardunio its mainly cause i have lots of the micros lying around.

Ive guven it some thought and i think i will just connect the two switches to a separate ardunio micro. Never tried it before but there should be no issue splitting a usb cable and connect two boards? That way i can avoid the whole encoder and matrix setup and just connect it straight with the joystick library. It will be the easiest by far as i can just remove the 2 rows and stick them on the new board and redo the rest. After that is just IF else with 4 buttons and ur good.

Thanks! Saved me a bit of work today. Ill get cracking on the Ardunio code or a pcb if i can get a hoold of it.

Never know. Ill give it a try in the morning. Cheers! Edit. Wouldnt it be quicker to just switch them around and see what happens though. I gotta remove lots of hot glue and such to test so ill see if i feel up for it. Its a myriad of wires in a tight space on a formula steering wheel hehe

Ok i see. I think we have figured this one out then. Sure sounds like it atleast. Id love to see this one solved in MMjoy at some point if possible. It would make an already fantastic software even better. Not many use it though so i can totally understand if it never happens. Cheers guys!

Exactly as the diagram you showed me but i run both Coms on the same row. All the diodes are in the correct orientation and ive tested a couple to check that they are working as they should and there has been no issues. Also i have two of these and its exactly the same on both. Another guy has the exact same issue and he said it shows the button 35 press on each of the 4 directions and im leaning towards that myself. Here is how ive attacked this anyhow. What i can say is that to some extent i had a really hard time figuring out what goes where. A B C D were eventually easy see on the part but damn near impossible from the picture. i managed to connect ground to where the push button should be and loads of buttons lit up on every press. seems to me they have marked it wrong as this was the push button connection. Once i reversed it i had no more issues apart from the push button. I tested encoder com only and the encoders were correct. Tested Com only and no encoder presses coming trough Tested 2 of the diodes and buttons in case i made a blooper. All inputs from those buttons stopped. I went trough each button and tested several times So im left with 2 funky's with the exact same issue. And atleast one i know has the exact same issue and i know of another from earlier that has been unable to get this button to work right. When i press the push button i get 35 4 switches its 24 35 25 35 and so on. In any case like i said im not knowledgeable on electronics other than soldering stuff together.