trigen

Ok i see. I think we have figured this one out then. Sure sounds like it atleast. Id love to see this one solved in MMjoy at some point if possible. It would make an already fantastic software even better. Not many use it though so i can totally understand if it never happens. Cheers guys!

Exactly as the diagram you showed me but i run both Coms on the same row. All the diodes are in the correct orientation and ive tested a couple to check that they are working as they should and there has been no issues. Also i have two of these and its exactly the same on both. Another guy has the exact same issue and he said it shows the button 35 press on each of the 4 directions and im leaning towards that myself. Here is how ive attacked this anyhow. What i can say is that to some extent i had a really hard time figuring out what goes where. A B C D were eventually easy see on the part but damn near impossible from the picture. i managed to connect ground to where the push button should be and loads of buttons lit up on every press. seems to me they have marked it wrong as this was the push button connection. Once i reversed it i had no more issues apart from the push button. I tested encoder com only and the encoders were correct. Tested Com only and no encoder presses coming trough Tested 2 of the diodes and buttons in case i made a blooper. All inputs from those buttons stopped. I went trough each button and tested several times So im left with 2 funky's with the exact same issue. And atleast one i know has the exact same issue and i know of another from earlier that has been unable to get this button to work right. When i press the push button i get 35 4 switches its 24 35 25 35 and so on. In any case like i said im not knowledgeable on electronics other than soldering stuff together.

Thanks. Im afraid im not very knowledable in electronics. Im wondering if it should actually be that way as i dont see any other way to connect it, its really the only option left. I suppose adding resistors to it shouldnt really make any difference as far as i know. I suppose i can program it in ardunio if i really have to. Going to have to ask the manufactuerer to be sure i think. Might need to get a hold of a RKJXM instead. Im guessing there is no easy way to add a little if else script to mmjoy?

It was just for testing different options to see if anything worked. As for the version, I had some issues with encoders on the newer stuff. I don't really see any options that would make a difference either way. Everything is set and fully working apart from button 35 (the push button) being pressed everytime I press one of the directional on the funky switch

Hey guys Having an issue with the 7 in 1 switch https://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTM...cuit%20Diagram I got everything hooked up in a 7 column 6 row matrix. The problem is that the push switch always activate when i press the 4 direction switches. Im sure everything is hooked up correctly and there shouldnt be any ghost presses but i may be wrong. Does not look like it operates that way from the schematic but i dont see any other issue that could cause it. Everything works correctly except this. Maybe im just stupid :p Ive set it up as a hat switch now and the 4 directions work fine but i get some presses of the push button every now and then and button 35 dont work. I did the timer just to test. If i were in Ardunio i would do something like this "if button 23 and 35 do 23 else 35" Can this be done in MMjoy? Any help is greatly appreciated. perhaps there is a clever way this is supposed to work that i dont see.

Think i got it now, cheers!

Let me see if i got this right. I connect all columns or rows for the encoder to common ground and then connect the outputs trough the diode and into the row/column. Also i just ignore Encoder com and com pins? https://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/MultiControl/Switch/RKJXT/RKJXT1F42001.html#Circuit%20Diagram

Mainly what mainly the encoder com and com. The rest is common ground so just wire the button to the terminal. Also how does grounds work in a matrix. Do I just leave one for ground or does it connect to a row or column?

Hi guys Im a bit of an idiot when it comes to advanced wiring diagrams or well lack thereof in this instance? Any techies that could help me out with this funky 7 in 1 switch? I got the general layout but it also needs to go on a matrix for mmjoy . Im not sure where Enc com would go? Also there should be no issues powering 1-4 Ardunio micros from one split usb cable? https://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/MultiControl/Switch/RKJXT/RKJXT1F42001.html#Circuit%20Diagram

I'm quite happy with my O first gen and would welcome some extra fov without upgrading to the newest hw again so that's good to hear. Suppose the fov is a bit different for everyone but how much more would you say for you on the index?

Same boat in Norway. Not available in your country. Was the case with the odyssey too.

Should do a G seat now! Cost me about 400$ (with cheap china motor drivers 300$ more with top of the line) to DIY my Dxracer Resources: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/diy-g-seats.172/ mine : https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/trigens-g-seat-build-starting-up.12869/#post-170626 Hard landings on the carrier deck are pretty ace now :p

Hi guys Thinking about doing a run with these telescopic extensions for the TM warthog. The cable will be included. Pricing will be 35 euro + shipping by untracked letter aprox 9 euro in europe and 14 worldwide I am located in Norway Length 10 to aprox 16 35 Euro Length 20-30cm 45 euro Custom length's can be requested (max height 20 alu + 16.5 print total 35 ) Price not set, shipping unknown, will check upon request. Currently i have the materials for making 9. After that it will be aprox 2 weeks before delivery Feel free to tell me what length you would all like and i will adjust accordingly. Shorter or longer.

Just go with 6 months and hope to be pleasantly surprised.

MS also broke AA from 1803 and up. Lines that were perferct are now completely ****ed but 15% of the length of the line works as normal. Go figure

Ill look into it and ask him. Im also wondering if it will be possible to just send the + - signals trough Ardunio or a motor controller and amp it up that way. Thats a bit more involved but could work if you really wanted to increase it with some new motors too

SteamVR SS has no effect in DCS just so you know

This is essentially whats going on in my games too. Windows 1803 AA issues.

Im thinking about sticking a dual setup for my MS FFB2. I already have double the power from a resistor volt mod but i need more force. Will there be to much strain on the board if i attach 2 more motors? What would happen if i put one more 1 R resistor on all. I see the original hack uses 3 but he put a whole lot of other stuff on there. Im not sure what the motors can handle either

It does have some effect but i dont think its the issue here. If you look at the corner of the this pic. This is happening in the WMR cliff house too ( ) . It was working just fine in windows 1709 in the Cliff house but with 1803 it does not. So there is definitively something that's not quite right. Sadly i cant test it in 1709 cause Steam VR refuse to work without updating windows. Also Like this line on the shelfs in the (This is with the Rift not odyssey ) rift house going from fine to transparent and AA'd . Another things and well i dont know if it should be this way but im always seeing some high frequency noise on the HMD (odyssey) but maybe your natural micro head movement would cancel it out. I would sure like to see the picture steady when its on the desk Its not by a large amount but more than enough to make my VR experience rather horrible with the constant line flicker. In position only mode its rock solid. Do you guys have this? Feels like there is a noise filter that has been broken or it could be something in windows

Assuming you got 4x MSAA and 2x SSAA on then? At PD 1 mine would be unplayable with nasty jaggies everywhere

Id be happy to jump on for the Cougar or Warthog stick 3d model too, will save me some time designing it. Ill share it with you if i end up doing some of those sticks

Usually this happens if you start steam VR before the initial calibration when starting WMR just put on the HMD wait to get in the cliff house and it should work fine. If thats not the case, then you got a tracking issue

And at 300 dollar it's a bargain. Just not in Europe lol. Hope others will pick up the tech asap

Edit: nvm