jubuttib

It's really useful tho when flying long distances. And at least on the Mi-8 this happens even if I turn off the yaw channel when making turns. And turning the yaw channel off doesn't actually fix the trim offset, you need to hit reset trim to get it back to center.

I'm sure they exist, but I've yet to see a golfer with a watch on their right wrist (unless they were a lefty), and in recent years I've seen more golfers wearing watches than ever (what with having fancy smart golf computers on them). The reason I've been given for putting the winder on the other side is to not interfere with the glove.

I mean traveling long straight lines and hovering is what I've been using it for, I always turn it off if I need to turn... This still happens.

Call me crazy, but trying to do AAR while 50 meters off the deck, chasing a KC-130 near its stall speed sounds like an interesting challenge...

I wonder, would it be considered a war crime to use civilian buildings between you and incoming missiles as shields...

I like the sound of the first one.

Back in my day, a computer was a person!

Both the default and return to center are equally unrealistic. It's just a question of preference. I like the fact that with return to center the stick doesn't suddenly give 2x input (stick deflection + the new trim position), you actually have to return it to center before any more inputs will be given, but that has also caused several moments of panic when I couldn't get the stick centered or didn't realize I'd hit the trim button, and was just confused why I'd lost control and tried to fight it. Default will always reliably keep you in control, but you have to get used to the "let go of trim and IMMEDIATELY return to center or you're gonna cause a disturbance" thing... All in all I think return to center is the better one IF I can teach myself to not freak out.

I haven't been following that aspect, but don't those things usually come in very late in, or after EA?

As you fly around, even if you don't have rudder trim turned on, often the rudders still get offset from center quite significantly, with the only way to fix it being to reset trim overall. The ideal solution would be for this to not happen, obviously, but a secondary better way would be to have a separate "reset rudder trim" binding. The same thing happens with the Mi-24P too, so I guess the two share some parts of the code. Haven't noticed this happening on other helis yet, though not saying it doesn't.

As you fly around, even if you don't have rudder trim turned on, often the rudders still get offset from center quite significantly, with the only way to fix it being to reset trim overall. The ideal solution would be for this to not happen, obviously, but a secondary better way would be to have a separate "reset rudder trim" binding. The same thing happens with the Mi-8 too, so I guess the two share some parts of the code. Haven't noticed this happening on other helis yet, though not saying it doesn't.

The most realistic would be having FFB that adds some resistance when moving away from center (among other effects), but cancels out the forces for whatever position the stick is in when you press the trim. None of the methods where you move the stick back to center after trimming are realistic for (to my knowledge) any helicopter. A good secondary option would be a stick that has dampers for movement, but no return springs, so that it stays where you leave it at all times. You wouldn't even need the trim button in that case.

You absolute star!

What you mentioned above was already the conclusion I'd reached from testing, but wanted to still ask around in case I was doing some kind of dumb dumb.

Cheers, good to have a better idea on what it's telling me. OK, so "4km left" means I'm 4km left of the track, and need to correct to the right, correct? FWIW that's how I assumed it was, but I saw a YouTube tutorial that kinda made me rethink... Timestamp at around 12:58 or so. To be fair, it wouldn't be a bad way to indicate it, telling you to "go this far in this direction".

Up until today, and based on what I'd seen in the Hind, I always assumed the drift angle needle is there just to tell you where the helicopter is actually moving vs. where the nose is pointing, i.e. whether you're crabbing and how much. Reading Chuck's guide on how to use the DISS-15 nav system though suggests otherwise: This suggests that it's instead about how far off the designed heading you are currently, basically replicating the HSI in a sense. Can anyone say for certain which it is? I would think it's working the way I originally thought, because regardless of whether the dead reckoning system is turned on or not, and whether you have any source of direction for the HSI or where your heading bug is pointed, the indicator mostly seems to point towards direction of travel. And when navigating I've kept the heading steady with yaw channel/heading hold turned on (confirmed by HSI heading being steady), and adjusted the drift angle shown by the indicator by rolling the helicopter to the left or right a bit. EDIT: Oh, and the "Drift Angle KM" (or the more accurate "Lateral Deviation km" in the Hind), can anyone confirm how exactly it should be read? Is Chuck's example showing 4 km and Left telling me that the actual track I should be on is 4 km to the left, or that I've deviated 4 km to the left, and should move 4 km to the right?

Did some night flying on the #1 server running Caucasus, and the ADF was spot on with the Hip there, working perfectly. So far only had issues on the #2 PG server, need to try #3 at some point.

I love the fine tuning capabilities of the autopilot, but I noticed that when bound to buttons/encoders the fidelity of the adjustments is WAY coarser than when using the mouse wheel over them. This does also hold true for other aircraft admittedly, like adjusting heading knob on the A-10C etc. Is there any way to adjust this via lua editing or something like that? I'd much rather use my physical controls for this than the mouse wheel.

I also tested other NDBs on the Marianas in another mission, and those were working great, so seems like something is up with specifically the pilots, or at least SOME of the pilots. Remembering that the 1st trial from my previous post was a success, unless I was actually tuned to something else and just got lucky... IIRC the frequency was supposed to be 210 kHz, and I had to tune down to more like 203-204 kHz to get a signal...

Right, made some findings today. I got the Mi-8's ADF to see a pilot, but after a while of looking where the ADF was pointing and where the pilot actually was via GPS and F10 map, the ADF was pointing 90 degrees off of where it should have been. I finally managed to find the pilot without the GPS by going perpendicular to the ADF's guidance. I'm almost certain that this is what happened with our Huey escapade before, that too seems to have been about 90 degrees off.

Yeah, all planes have that, and it's REALLY ANNOYING that there isn't any masterlist of absolutely every available command anywhere. The stupidest thing IMO is that the A-10C has the ability to set up, maneuver and down flaps individually, but those binds are hidden unless you're using the Warthog HOTAS. You can use them of course, but it requires adding them manually into a controller's .lua...

Edit: The reason why "20.3km to Craven Moorehead" surprised me so much was that we were supposedly flying towards Craven, but 5 minutes before we were at like 19.6km...

According to Chuck's guide, the "Weapon System Mode Selector" is the knob that selects between moving, fixed, etc. modes for the cannon. This one. What you're talking about is the "Unguided rocket and Gun Pods settings" in the manual. As for why you'd want individual buttons instead of just left/right, it's the same reason as why the 3 position flaps on the A-10 map to a 3 position switch on the Warthog throttle, not just "flaps up" and "flaps down". You have a switch that expresses X number of specific positions, you want them to actually be used. If the in-game switch has 5 positions and your switch has 5 positions, there's nothing unrealistic about mapping them one to one. Additionally as for why you'd want for example a 5 position switch instead of a two way infinite rotary encoder, it's the absolute vs. relative selection. When you put a 5-position switch into a specific position, you KNOW that it's in that position, usually even by feel. Encoders have really bad habits of sometimes not triggering a button press, sometimes triggering two, etc. (or just the game ignoring a short pulse like encoders often use), they might not have super clear steps, etc. If you need to select a specific setting _right now_, a switch with individual outputs is way better. Kinda like in an FPS game, it's more reliable to switch between your weapons by pressing the number keys than it is to use the mouse wheel. Can't find a command for it in dcs-interface's lists that have many more things than are shown in-game, so I doubt there is... =(

OK, some testing results: First attempt with Huey: Success. Both me and my buddy (in different choppers) could get a lock on the signal (after tuning multiple kHz off of the claimed frequency), though a hill caused it to take a fairly long while before we got it. Second attempt: Failure, video link coming in a bit. We started heading for Craven Moorehead, using frequency 350 kHz, and found it easily. When we started flying it was directing us somewhere Northeast, while in reality the target was well Southeast of us. By the time we show in the video we've been flying for a fair bit, and the ADF is directing us to fly almost exactly due East (the compass on my screen is out of sync, pilot's compass was showing the correct direction compared to F10 map and backup compass), while the target was at that point almost directly South of us. Third attempt: Failure. Buddy left and I switched to a Hip to try it out. First time trying to ADF in the Hip (only bought it yesterday), so maybe I did something wrong, but I couldn't get a signal to a target a mere 25 km away, on mostly flat ground, no significant hills. Had the ARK-9 selected, both main and reserve tuned to the frequency, COMP mode on, and HSI mode on the MW/ARK-9 mode (switch to the left). Tried using the fine tuning knobs on both channels, nothing.

We're going there again tonight (last night's excursion ended up in my friend overspeeding after going over a hill and going into retreating blade stall, and me getting shot down by a dang AK...), for revenge! We'll try it out.