LawnDart

Check the little tag attached to your USB cord, if it says V1 you have older firmware. I believe the ones that say V3 (and newer) have firmware pre-loaded that has had much fewer problems. I honestly haven't kept up with this issue, since it's seemingly fixed with the new firmware - but checking the tag wouldn't hurt I suppose. Regardless, I'd plug it in... and update your firmware with the latest from TM's site ASAP. Not because I think your unit would fail, but because it's the right thing to do.

So true. Good convo. I'm not suggesting there's a right or wrong answer, but I know I'll be using N1 as my primary target thrust number in the upper troposphere tomorrow (and the FADECs would concur ;) )...

For someone who flies a plane with the TF-34's sister engine, the CF-34 (Bombardier CL-65), we use N2 (core speed) settings for lower rpm (mostly ground, crossbleed starts etc.) and N1 (fan speed) for higher rpm settings (when airborne). It's obviously a mix of both, but these engines are actually under electric fan speed control above a certain rpm (79% N2 I believe), which means they're "N1 controlled" at anything above that, while below this percentage they're under hydro-mechanical control or "N2 controlled" when you move the thrust levers. (Sorry if I'm a bit rusty. That's what happens when you fly the somewhat bigger version of the same jet with FADEC controlled engines). While I'm unfamiliar first hand with the specs of the TF-34, I'd say that's a safe assumption.

Only half-true when there's actually a difference. ;)

Exactly. For the same given speed your knots will read a lower number than mph (hence "knots is faster"). e.g. 300 knots = 345 mph

Nope. Mph is faster than knots, because of what you just said. ;)

Got that backwards. Mph is ~1.15 times knots. Core speeds are faster, but as someone who's flown lots of turbine I've hardly ever used N2 as a reference. Use N1.

Real jets with multiple throttles don't have them linked, but you almost always use them (or walk them) together as one.

I used to the the same for the entire install folder, not just the saved games. It's always nice to have a clean/fresh install copy handy with only the HOTAS and most basic tweaks and options pre-set.

The poll in the original post is severely limited.

Oh, there's plenty... The specs are very clear and on Naturalpoint's website, I'm just looking for user feedback on how big the difference really is.

I'm thinking about getting a TIR 5. I currently have a TIR 4. For anyone who's had both, is it worth the upgrade (smoothness, precision etc.)?

. ~S!

Thanks, that certainly helps quite a bit when you're flying in the weeds. How do you turn GCAS off altogether?

Seems I opened Pandora's Box... :doh: Sorry for the OT, but I'm guessing DCS: F-15E, heck maybe even a refined C model. The Strike Eagle would definitely sell!

DCS: F-16C would likely boost revenue! :D It would be interesting to see some numbers though, since console games are so much simpler and dominate the market vastly. Thank goodness we have ED, or the sim genre would be next to dead for military jets.

Silly Q (possibly): How do you remove the MFD screens in the lower left and right corners of the HUD only view (Alt-F1)? Second Q: Is there a way to disable bitchin' Betty or set a lower RAD-ALT that the announciator goes off?

It should automatically update it for you (right click A-10 in the games list in Steam, select properties and go to your updates tab to see if you have it set to automatically update), although it may take a little longer before the patch is available on Steam.

Real airplane controls are touchy, however, you normally have tons more "feedback", i.e. seat of the pants / you can feel how much to move the controls. Then there's also the uniqueness to each airplane. Maybe the 150 you're flying now has a laggy and sticky throttle (each airplane has its own temper), but in general you'd want to be smooth on all control inputs. Remember this saying: "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."

And sucks when you're surfing the boards on your cell phone. And is against the forum rules, too.

Had the same issue last time I reinstalled everything (after a HDD crash). It was solely a setting in one of my TV's menu (not the computer). Obviously different TVs will have different settings and menus, but that's where I'd look. Now, each pixel is dot by dot for me again.

Update firmware to latest. No/fewer issues with new firmware, so don't fear - git 'er done! Agree on all the above re: TARGET. Only game I don't use it for is A-10C (only because it comes pre-mapped for the HW + MFDs).

HDMI to HDMI = hassle free and a no brainer!

Are you sure you have your rudders (Z axis) mapped? Moving the stick does not move your rudder surface (it only moves your ailerons and elevator).

Optimal as far as time, fuel or distance covered...? Generally you'd want to keep a high sustained airspeed that yields a high rate of climb, then transition to indicated mach number for the continuation of the climb to higher altitudes.