_Hoss

You are right... I wonder why he said he needed to shop for a replacement in case his brakes... sounded like "Experience" talking...

The fact you just said... "I have shopped for a second base unit in case my first should break". gives me pause to wonder about said devices. The brand new PTO2 I just got is amazing on the left-hand side and a disappointment on the right-hand side... makes the old saying Fair to Middling fit in this case...it's... So So.. LOL, hey, the Virpil CP#2 is just as weird... some really nice stuff and stuff I wonder if it will break the first time I use it. A guarded switch that doesn't latch in either direction.. why have a guard.... As the old saying goes, a fool and his money are soon separated... we flight simmers are far worse animals... Us old.. old Dogs should know better..

the holes in the side are for M5x40 bolts, for M5 Slot nuts... which you can't get from Monstertech. They do come in their system for mounting a MIP style setup. So I had to find a source for the slot nuts from Walmart of all places.. the bolts I can source from a local hardware store. They fit on the MT extrusions just great if you have the necessary hardware. Those two bolts and nuts they gave you to anchor the cord are what you need. M5x40.

You need more storage.... I only play IL2 and DCS... I have my OS on a SSD in the drive case, two 1TB M.2 nvme SSDs on the MOBO.. one for IL2 and one for DCS, there is also a 350GB WD/HDD Raptor in there I've had for almost 15 years. I mean it's a first gen... It's the Dump Truck where I store all my backups. So if my OS SSD dies (I've had two go bad over the years) I don't lose any of my other data, if IL2 or DCS drive fails......... I have all the back ups on the Raptor... Each time I build a new computer these drives migrate into it. Once you have these extra drives you just initially load everything onto them.. no moving crap around.. or worry about running out of space.. Cheers People used to have a bad time of updating their game, it worked perfectly, but were unable to get back onto multiplayer rooms, they found out if you did an update/repair/clean, it was always a good idea to turn off your firewall, and even your AV, so you did not loose anything, or corrupt anything while performing these operations. And it was a valid problem, I suffered from it on numerous occasions. But if I remembered to turn off FW/AV it always worked. Don't forget to reboot... everyone is always in a hurry... I use the freeware updater and only resort to this when all else fails. It does work for me... Your mileage may vary... Cheers

Turn off your firewall, reboot, do your repair, reboot, and then start the game... restart firewall...

Go over to the HOTAS/HOSAS/SIMPIT Discord and look for Qr4rigs. there is your solution... Quick release 4 rigs..... bingo bango... from F/A-18 to F-16 in less than five minutes... Instant Invite: https://discord.gg/szqaJE7 https://qr4rigs.com/ Hoss

I agree, with your opinion... but I'll just come out and say it.......... I'm a Thrustmaster Warthog fanboy.... there.... I said it... and no, I don't need an intervention. I have a TMWH, Crosswinds, BlackHog, K51 Trim box, Master/Arm panel, Virpil CP#2, and PTO2. There's a TM Viper Panel due to ship here on Oct. 12th. When it gets here I'll be able to formulate my opinion on some of these. I love my Warthog, I changed out the Slew and Pinky Switch with DeltaSim replacements and put a 10cm curved extension on the stick. had a friend make new panels for it and the BlackHog, I've had it for over 10 years. The BlackHog most people would disregard because it's blacked out... no lights... but it's very solid. I have the Virpil CP#2, with a landing gear handle... It's nice but there are some cheesy switches. (I'm donating it to a friend) The Guarded switch doesn't even stay latched...(three position that doesn't latch in either direction).....WTF... why even have a hinged guard on them... LMAO.... I agree with the opinion on the PTO2 Hook and Wingfold handles.. it does have nice tactile-shaped switches.. mine works, loaded up SAP and it works as advertised. I'm hoping TM's Panel isn't a lick and a promise on the build quality of the TMWH. Virpil and WinWing are fair to middlin' in my eye. They get about half of it right and blow it on the rest... Once I get the panel, and finish building the quick disconnect Left console I'll let you guys know how I like the PTO2 and Panel. Use some J/B weld on that screw insert, it won't come out again...

The A-6E carried the AN/ALR-45, ALR-50, RHAW, AN/ALE- 29, 39 & 41 Chaff dispensers and could carry two AN-ALQ-126A Deception Repeaters. The Prowler could as well. They most always carried weights in the Turtleback position. The Prowler would carry weights in the Dog House position. The A-7E, carried the same, but only one ALQ. The ALQ-126s are Deception Repeaters..... period, they do not jam... They only transmit when they are within a pre-determined range, of Fire Control RADARs received signal strength. They will repeat on a pulse-for-pulse basis of a Fire Control RADAR, ONLY when falls within parameters set in its Threat Library... i.e..... only if it's fingerprint matches (PRF/PW). Most of your Airborne RADAR/DECM systems only generate 1000w of power or 60db. For reference, I was an Avionics tech in the USN for 20 years (77-97), I exclusively worked on all the DECM in A-6, A-7, F/A-18A/B/C/D, and the Repair Benches they were tested on, in AIMD/IM3/64C. The EA-6B Prowler's ECM is exclusively the ALQ-99 and it does JAM. That was in the Van's hanging in Hangar Bay 1, which is W/C 64B. AT NAS Whidbey, the ALQ-99 room is lead-lined. After retiring in 97, I started working for Boeing's Avionics Repair Facility in the MOD of what's now VFA-122s Hanger at NAS Lemoore.... for almost 25 years. I Repaired AN/APG-65, 73 RADARS, FIRAMS, MSDRS, IFEI, EMD, FCES, UFC, BADSA, ADC, MDG, HUD, HUD cameras, CLIP, IBU, ICE DET., ICS, I was also a Micro/Miniature Component Repair tech, for 40 years. Hoss AT1(AW/SW) USN (ret)

I don't use all the buttons and switches on the throttle, they are too hard to use with the throttle forward. I mainly use the ones on the throttle handles. And on my BlackHog button box. Freakin Voice command is the way to go, but it takes just as long to set up.. and who can remember all those lines... CUuuuuuuT!...... Cheers....

I'm a TM fan, I've got the TMWH, Crosswinds, BlackHog button box. Currently I use TARGET with Sedenion's Complete 120dx hack.... I'm getting 96 dx presses with Long/Short TEMPO presses. On the BlackHog I use Joy2key to program it. What's cool I can use it to program a keystroke on the HOTAS while still running a SCRIPT. And I use the TARGET event tester to see if the BH is working correctly. I'm completely tearing apart the Office/Mancave/Cockpit...... and I've got a PTO2 and Viper Panel coming... in fact I got an email saying the panel will ship Oct. 12th. PTO2 is on the way. This looks to be a good program to use. It programs just like TARGET GUI, button presses can be Pulse or Hold.... Chain events, Sequence events, press/release events, but no TEMPO in GUI. I like TARGET because when you run it, the game only sees one controller... that could include, stick, throttle, Viper Panel, TPR pedals..... MIP.....etc.... in joy2key I have seperate profiles for P-51, P-47, Mosquito, A-4, and then a single profile to cover IL2. And I can switch profiles on the fly too. Has there been a problem with support lately?

One day soon Deacon..... probably a Devastator too...... ssshhhhhhhh BBOB......

This thing mounts like the individual MIP pieces mount to the over-all system.

Thanks, I'll find it in the list now. Cheers okay; it's LSHF + LWIN + Pause It's in the UI Layer at the top of the list.. all kinds of generic stuff. fps etc.... Thanks

This is not really a bug, but it's buggin' the hell out of me. I have been looking for this keystroke command (Active Pause) and do not seem to be able to find it. Was the name changed? doing a search for it does not find it. so I'm hoping the command is still there but called something else. Any information would be brilliant. Love to use it while I fumble about learning a new plane. Thanks

That hack might work for some, but it doesn't work on my rig... Will just have to wait for old ED to get the cranial rectimitus situation under control...

I found it the same way, I use Sedenion's 120 Complete DX SCRIPT. It assigns dx button assignments to all switch, button positions. So it's easier to do, but you get TEMPO presses when the stick/throttle combination is run. So this is another way of doing it. Thanks for sharing...

Yep...... I know those folders, and I have placed in them exactly what I want. But every time I get in the plane there are other things on the kneeboard I did not put there. That, is the crux of my problem. No biggie I guess...

I have been trying to get everything nice and tidy for the Jug, but I'm still amazed at all the places they find to hide the same functions. Now, if I have a P-47D, there is a model -30, -40, and some hodgepodge of a -30 . Now If I wanted to find everywhere there is a kneeboard folder, where would I find all of them in an OB install?

Petercove, were you looking into getting into a squadron after getting this sorted?...

Does anyone know if there is a print for the TMWH Throttle Friction handle? To exted it up and to the right to make it feel like a "pitch" RPM lever on a Warbird throttle housing? Or just know of a repository where I may find the specs? Thanks Hoss

Learn how to use TARGET... You have IN/OUT mode on S3 stick button, which can be toggled (stays that way till you press it again) or un-toggled, which means you need to hold it. On the throttle the UP/MIDDLE/DOWN Boat switch I leave un toggled because I don't need to hold the switch forward or back, OUT & MIDDLE are your default normal conditions. However many different U/M/D - I/O variations you need is entirely up to you.

it's available for pre-order via Amazon... all three iterations of it...

He's definitely the guy to go to for these custom faceplates. I've got a set for the TMWH throttle, and two for my BlackHog buttonbox. Quick turn around times too....

Auto update next OB release?

I highly recommend you install the pull-up resistors to keep your VCC at either +5 vdc or +12 vdc. no matter the load placed on the board or controller.