Guppy

Hey all - Working on a custom "button box" having issues finding the size of the toggle switch I want. Everything I end up ordering are "mini". I want switches that are comparable in size to the TM WH Throttle. Any ideas? I'm certainly not looking to drop $30-50 on mil-grade switch. I'm just looking for something comparable in size to them. Any links would help greatly! Thanks!

ah-ha... this makes sense. Thank you! I might just go Ardunio and force myself to code... hmmm

I bought one of these, They seem incredibly easy to set up - more so than even an Arduino controller, as it requires no coding: https://www.desktopaviator.com/Instructions/Model_2160/index.htm I'm looking to build a panel with a few DPDT switches (2-way momentary On switches). In addition, I want a few rotary switches as well. I don't want the type with an axis... I want the type where it essentially is pushing a "button" as you turn it one direction and another button as you turn it the opposite direction, infinitely. Sort of like the "E" switches of the VPC T-50 Throttle (https://virpil.com/en/blog/89-introducing-the-vpc-mongoost-50-throttle). Now I noticed near the bottom of the instructions it shows 5-10 position rotary encoders. To me, if I went with a 10 position rotary switch, this would imply that every turn of the knob ends up flipping 0-10 "buttons". This is not what I want. What I want is when I turn a knob one direction its hitting Button 1, and the other Button 2. I saw these on Amazon, which I think is what I want... but I just dont get the difference with all of these types: https://www.amazon.com/Cylewet-Encoder-15%C3%9716-5-Arduino-CYT1062/dp/B06XQTHDRR/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519833881&sr=1-3&keywords=Rotary+Encoder&linkCode=sl1&tag=howto045-20&linkId=8342c1bffd186172203db659d13e7449

I do have a 1200W power supply :)

Got my tracking today! June 15Th preorder.

It’s a racing game. You don’t need breaks. Just lead foot it on the gas.

Does anyone have any information regarding the SM/MED/LG selections related to SIZE and RCS options on the 120c? I assume RCS = Radar Cross Section?

They are absolutely wonderful to use. They feel great. As Jabber's review states the most annoying part is adjusting them. But once you get them to where you like, they feel so good. There's really no alternative to them in terms of realism. Yeah, slaws are great but they dont move realistically. These do.

Very helpful - thank you! especially point #2 regarding SLI. I think my best bet here is to potentially use a 2080 TI for my main monitors and have all my sub monitors spread amongst 2 different video cards. I might try my 2 1080s (extremely pointlessly overkill) just to see if it works. Then potentially downgrade. thank you!

I figured it out Panther - your direction helped with a bit of research on my end. Please find my write-up. I also sent it off to Thrustmaster incase anyone else gets stupidly excited like me and goes rogue. BEHAVIOR: When pressing down the break pedals, games and windows only register 50-100% of the axis movement even though the full range is being applied on the physical pedal itself. This causes games to incorrectly register the axis @ 50% all the time unless pressed. Then it cycles from 50 to 100%. LIKELY CAUSE: Using Windows default calibration software (Game Controllers) to calibrate the pedals prior to downloading and installing: 1) Drivers from TM website (Package Drivers - Hotas Warthog - 2018_TMHW_1 + Firmware) and 2) Calibration utility (T.RJ12 USB ADAPTER_Calibration tool (v1.11)) Additional detail: When I initially setup these pedals I immediately plugged them into windows and calibrated there. I tried a game, noticed I had issues... then I went to your website and downloaded #1 and #2 above. I did not follow the printed instructions in your booklet - i went rogue. HOW TO RESOLVE: a) Launch the Package Drivers installation software. This will uninstall the TPR Pedals and their associated applications. b) reboot your PC c) Launch Windows calibration software (Game Controllers) d) click on TPR Pedals from the list, click properties, Settings tab, Click Reset to default e) reboot PC f) Install #1 and #2 above g) FIXED ADDITIONAL NOTE: If the user has not downloaded and installed #1 and #2 above, but are having issues with axis movements because they only used the windows calibration software (game controllers). Instruct user to follow steps c) through g) above. Essentially they need to wipe their current calibration in windows and start with the drivers/calibration utility. I have tested this multiple times and have been able to reproduce every single time.

I have 3 external USB 3.0 hubs as I have a plethora of devices plugged into my pc: - 2x keyboard - 2x mice - 3x TM MFD - TMWH Throttle - TMWH Stick - TM TPR - TrackIR - Touch screen Any way, these USB hubs are powered. I have had this issue in the past and usually Device Manager has notated that one of my hubs is wonky. Usually, unplugging all of the hubs from the PC and disconnecting the power resets them and all is fine. If you plug directly into your Motherboard I'm not sure what to do in this instance.

Panther, when you say go back into windows and reset the calibration from the tab. I do not see where to do that. When I open up the Game Controller Control Panel... When I click properties for the TPR it just shows the Thrustmaster TPR Control Panel Properties. Are you saying to uninstall the TPR Pedals, head into the windows calibration and reset then?

So first I'd like to note that I am likely doing something wrong here, but I cannot figure out what it is. I have a few messages into Jabbers as I was debugging my issue, but I figured I'd open it up to the community as I'm sure some of you have the pedals, too. Behavior of issue: - Break pressure is always at 50% on both pedals. I can see this in the Control panel, too. - Pressing "w" (wheelbreaks), overrides the pedals and the pressure falls to 0%, in game. - Pressing either pedals break, even slightly to engage the axis, when released sets the break pressure to 50%. I can register additional breaks from 50%-100%. but I cannot do 0-50%. - When I go to assign the break axis in game, pushing the pedal will not assign it. I attribute this to only being able to move the pedal 50-100%. In most games, like DCS, you must move an axis in its full range to tell the game what axis to use. I cannot. So I have to select the axis from the drop down. When I test... I see it moving the 50-100%, but I again, cannot move it to the 0-50%. Troubleshooting done: - Uninstalled the drivers, reinstalled - calibrated and re-calibrated using the downloaded tool. Workaround - I've gotten them to work as they are supposed to by using the TARGET software. My problem with it, though... is that I do not want to use the TARGET software. Additionally, the reviews I've seen no one has really used it either. Additional information: When I originally installed them I did not download any of the drivers, tools, calibrations software, what name you. I plugged them in, launched the windows calibration tool and went at it. I'm not sure if doing that has created some issue between what I did with windows and when I downloaded the drivers and all that crap. Thoughts anyone before I try reaching out to Thrustmaster?

Not helpful - but thanks. Another option would be to not play computer games and not worry about technology LOL! Feel free to click my simpit link in my signature. It will show you why I'm running 7-8 monitors. I'm from 'merica - more is always better here. One main monitor + 6 secondary monitors. the 6 secondary monitors are used to pull displays, etc from DCS. Click my simpit link in my signature. Maybe my question was not clear in my original post and I apologize for that. I'm looking to know two things: 1) Does anyone have any experience running 2 or more different video cards? IE: a 1080 paired with a 970? OR a 1080 with 2x 970s. In this config, my thought would be to have the primary video processing (1080) focused on the main monitor and the two other video cards used purely for the secondary monitors. 2) Is it possible to have 2 cards (of the same type), set up in an SLI config and secondary GPUs used purely for video ports? IE: 2x 1080 TIs (in SLI) with 2x 970s (not in SLI, but used for video ports). My goal is to get the most performance out of my video cards with the primary rendering of DCS (which is in window mode due to the need to extract displays from the game), while still having the ability to render additional displays for my simpit. I'm looking at upgrading my rig to the latest and greatest technology on the market right now and I'm just exploring what alternatives I could consider in this endeavor (cost really is not an issue - i'm not trying to be economical; just practical with my needs).

Quick background... I require a total of 8 monitors to be used: 1 main + 6 secondary monitors. I have an 8th monitor always plugged in so I can switch between the 7 displays for my simpit and my desk to play regular games/browse. Currently I run 2x 1080 Ti. As most of you know, SLI does not support that many monitors. So when I play DCS I shut off SLI, but Windows still allows me to use both cards for video ports. When I play regular games I turn on SLI for my single monitor, for better performance in those games. Right now I'm on a 5930K w/ ASUS ROG RAMPAGE V, in a custom loop; I'm looking to upgrade to an 8700K + ROG Strix and upgrade the loop. My goal is to also upgrade to a 2080 Ti in this process. I'm not planning on doing an SLI config as DCS does not support it to the degree that there is meaningful increase in performance. However - I MUST have 8 video ports. Is it possible to run two different graphics cards within a PC? The interwebs say yes - but I'm wondering if anyone can validate based on their experience? I'm considering using one of the 1080 TIs with a 2080 TI purely for video ports. Or, if there is a cheaper alternative to using those 1080s I'll do that, too. Thank you!

Just got my Amazon shipping notification. Comes Tuesday!!

Mail me your throttle. I’m sure I can figure it out. ;)

So I figured it out... its the latest Ikarus version - cannot figure out why.

Copy that H-J-P. Must have been an older version. Also, I think the latest open beta patch that ED released killed all lamps/gauges and 7 segments for the hornet. Can anyone confirm? Only my switches/buttons are working in Ikarus, everything else has stopped working. I'm running 1.4.5.3h Ikarus.

i figured out the issue. it needs to be SwitchOffOn not button. also, have you considered allowing for keyboard strokes to be assigned to buttons? i ask because you technically could use Ikarus beyond just switches and such and create custom touch screen profiles for FC aircraft that are based on keyboard commands.

I'm curious how they are figuring out what orders to ship. Seems like the dates are all over the place.

if its December then it's December. I should not have to be checking my email daily in hopes there's a change. Communicate.

Mine is June 15th and not yet shipped. To the folks being overly defensive of VPC and shipping: Regardless if it is 2 more weeks is irrelevant. The manufacturer knows what their target date is. They don't just sit building things with no idea when they will finish. In my opinion, they should communicate that date to their customers. And when something changes they should communicate that, too and offer an explanation. There is no amount of " oh, but this is a small business - its quality!" that should keep transparent communication from their customers. They likely know how many units they can churn out a day, how many orders to fulfill and a projected date to complete. It would be wonderful to be communicated a slight filtered view of that: IE: "based on our current production rates we expect yours to be shipping the week of [XXX]. Here's a hint, under promise and over deliver (IE: Ship on 10/1, but actually ships 9/15). Of course, this is just my opinion. I do not own VPC and they are capable of making their own decisions on what and when to communicate. I will stand by my preorder regardless, because I think they deserve the business even though I don't appreciate the lack of transparency.

You can map them to anywhere you want. Just change where they are and set the XY coordinated. In other news I got a mod to angle my stick forward. SOOOOO COMFORTABLE.