wolle

Has anybody had time to look at the new ME commands (such as bomb in zone), yet? Are they described in an updated ME manual? What are they likely to be used for? Just curious.

Hi IADC, Looking forward to receiving your comments, Wolle

SP mini-campaign "Kartvelian Shield" My single player mini-campaign "Kartvelian Shield" has been posted in the "User Files" section of the DCS website. If interested, check it out. Constructive criticism and bug reports are welcome! Name: Kartvelian Shield Author: wolle Mission type: SP campaign Controllable: P-51D Quick Summary (5 lines): - A string of 4 missions with overarching story line. Presently, there are no branching scenarios, i.e. each stage has only one mission assigned to it. - The missions involve flying the P51D as a strafing platform, escort fighter, interceptor and fighter bomber. - Russian forces are invading Georgia. US led forces have promised to help Georgia. - Russian forces are threatening Tblisi, which requires reinforcements. Unfortunately the closest allied air base is in Abkhazia. - Allied plans call for an airlift to Tblisi, then to hamper Russian efforts to build up troop strengths at Kutaisi air base. Link/Download: <url / attachment here> Full brief/Discussion thread: <url here> Author/Misc info:

My P51D single player mini-campaign "Kartvelian Shield" has been posted in the "User Files" section of the DCS website and the P51D mission section of this forum. If interested, check it out. Use this thread for constructive criticism and bug reports. Thanks!

What do you mean by "TGP is easy mode". Do you mean that the TGP is unrealistically implemented, that is to say it should properly belong to the game mode, not the sim mode? Why?

Friedrich did: I quote "Page 68: Remote Indicator Compass The Remote Indicator Compass on the P-51D replaces the conventional magnetic compass of previous aircraft, although some models also include a conventional standby magnetic compass as a backup. The remote compass unit is installed in the left wing and transmits its readings electrically to the indicator on the instrument panel. This type of compass doesn’t float around and fluctuate when the aircraft is maneuvered. This provides all of the advantages of the directional gyro without the processions. However, the directional gyro is provided as a backup should the electrical system fail. The Remote Indicator Compass consists of a stationary compass rose, a current magnetic heading arrow, and a desired magnetic heading arrow. The knob of the instrument is used to adjust (turn) the desired magnetic heading arrow to a desired heading. " Or do I misunderstand him?

Hi guys, Did I hear you claim that the compass doesn't move as the aircraft maneuvers? I must be misunderstanding something here. In my P51D (I have the latest version installed), the compass needle immediately jumps to an incorrect heading as I initiate the turn, and keeps indicating the wrong heading as long as I am in the turn, then instantaneously jumps back to the correct heading as I level out when the turn is complete. The gyro on the other hands gives smooth heading readings throughout the turn. ??? Also, upon start from runway the compass and gyro display a different heading (by 10 degrees or so, don't remember). Which one is the correct one? How often do I have to recalibrate the gyro reading based on the compass reading?

I have Saitek pro pedals. Is it worth updating to the combat pedals? I generally find that the sensitivity of my pedals is insufficient for the P51D. Would the combat pedals work better?

Being a mad genius myself (more mad than genius), I am interested :thumbup:

Hi Zahry, Here are my measurements, made with a (low-end) caliper: Your measurement: 14.5 mm, my measurement: 14.5 mm Your measurement: 5.0 mm, my measurement: 5.8 mm Your measurement: 18.6 mm, my measurement: 17.6 mm I am not sure I recognize the part depicted in your last picture, but I think it is simply the grooved part of the upper part of the female bit, i.e. the grooved part of the next-but last picture, if so, then: Your measurement: 12.3 mm. My measurement: 11.9 mm As you see, there are some significant deviations, and the failure for my extension to mechanically fit could be a case of tolerances adding up unfavorably, but I am not certain of that. Next I would like to check the electrical connection. I have some questions: how do I best remove the glue that holds the upper connector in place? I also have the feeling that the lower connector needs to stick out a little more. If so, is the lower connector glued in, can it be moved?

Dear Zahry (same post as before now with pictures: The female bit is sliding up and down, it is not stuck. But even in the positon where it is all the way forward, it is too short and can catch only the first groove of the male warthog-base thread. So, either the female bit is too short, or the plastic part that contains the electrical connector is too long (even with the bulky screws completely removed). In the meantime I have taken the extension apart into its individual components.The female bit consists of two parts that are bolted together with long thin screws. I separated the two parts by removing the screws, then I can of-course fully screw the lower half that has the thread on it onto the Warthog thread. Then I manualy plug in the electrical connector bit, then press the extension tube against it, and then slide the second part of the female bit all the way forward, but even in the all-the-way forward position there is a gap of several millimeters between it and the fully screwed on second part of the female bit that contains the thread. Again, the conclusion is the same: Either the female bit is too short, or the plastic part that contains the electrical connector is too long. The attached pictures show: "bareWarthog" Just the bare Warthog base-uniot thread "lowerFemaleBit" The lower part of the sliding female bit described above screwed onto the Warthog base-unit "Electrical Connector" The electrical connector plugged in (from the ease with which I can connect and disconnect it, I doubt it makes electrical contact with the warthog plug) "ExtensionTube" The extension tube sitting on top of the plastic part that contains the connector. "GapLeft" I now pushed the upper part of the sliding female bit as far down as it goes, and the picture shows the gap left between the upper and lower female bit. If I close the gap by screwing the lower female bit less far onto the Warthog base, it only catches the first groove of the Warthog base-unit thread.

Hokie17, Quick question to you (see my previous post). Does the bottom end of the extension mechanically fit the Warthog-base (i.e. can you screw the female bit all the way over the Warthog-base thread), and give you a mechanically firm connection? I am interested to find out if the problem I mentioned in my previous post is specific only to my extension, or not. Thanks, wolle

The female bit is sliding up and down, it is not stuck. But even in the positon where it is all the way forward, it is too short and can catch only the first groove of the male warthog-base thread. So, either the female bit is too short, or the plastic part that contains the electrical connector is too long (even with the bulky screws completely removed). In the meantime I have taken the extension apart into its individual components.The female bit consists of two parts that are bolted together with long thin screws. I separated the two parts by removing the screws, then I can of-course fully screw the lower half that has the thread on it onto the Warthog thread. Then I manualy plug in the electrical connector bit, then press the extension tube against it, and then slide the second part of the female bit all the way forward, but even in the all-the-way forward position there is a gap of several millimeters between it and the fully screwed on second part of the female bit that contains the thread. Again, the conclusion is the same: Either the female bit is too short, or the plastic part that contains the electrical connector is too long. Sorry for the complicated descriptions, I do not have a digital camera, unfortunately.

Hi Zahrie, In my case, I didn't even get to test the extension electrically. This is because my extension doesn't mechanically fit. The female fitting at the bottom of the extension does not protrude enough to go over the male thread of the Warthog's base. It would have to be about three millimeters longer, the length it is now it only entends to the first groove of the thread.

Even if I take those screws out, the thread that goes into the base unit won't catch more than the first grove (and this first grove I have pretty much worn out by now) :cry:

I have the same problem with the screws you mentioned. They pretrude too far out, and therefore you can't screw the extension into the base unit with those big screw heads in the way. How did you solve this?

How do you guys implement the trim wheels, i.e. what controls do you assign to this function? Do you know of any off-the-shelf products (i.e. wheels connected to a potentiometer connected to USB, and readable by DCS) that could function as a trim wheel for the P51D?:dunno:

Hi Grimes, That worked, many thanks!

Hi Grimes, Thanks very much for your response. I (think I) understand what you did: unit.p gives the position/orientation, not just the position as I thought. unit.p.p gives the position, right? Weirdly, now the LOS message on my install is always "No LOS", and on yours it alternates. Would be interesting to find out what causes that... Shameless request: Could you rewrite my mission with the MIST LOS function you mentioned. This would help me understand how to use MIST...

Hi Druid, I am trying to implement the function you describe above, but without success, land.isVisible always returns true, even if there is no LOS. If you can spare a couple of minutes, can you look at the attached (very simple) mission. Many thanks LineOfSight.miz

I agree, that's exactly the reason why I asked for "glance" commands. By assigning a key to "left mirror on" or "right mirror on", the mirrors appear only as long as you press those keys. At all times when those keys are not pressed, the mirrors are folded away, and don't impact the FPS. The mustang has a similar command, called "mirror glance" or something like that. In other words, what I am looking for is the keyboard command (or rather the line in the controlls menu that allows me to assign a key to that function) that turns on the top mirror and moves the pilots head position into a position ideal for viewing the rear-view mirror, but only for as long as the key is pressed. That is, I am looking for the analog of the P51 "mirror glance" option.

@air wolf I will be opening my wallet wide, only problem: no matter how wide I open it, I can only find a couple of bucks in it:( @kuky If I run a single video card, can I still connect 3 monitors to it? Given my hardware config, is Dell a good place to buy it from, or can I save a couple of bucks when I go with a different company. Maybe giving endorsements for companies is against forum rules, in which case maybe you can give me alternate companies/websites I could have a look at.

Sorry to highjack this thread, but I just posted a thread in the hardware section of this forum, asking for advice on a new computer. (unfortunaetely I do not know how to link to another thread. If I knew I would, but it should be easy to find, the title of the thread is "please help me choose my next computer"). I sure would be thankful if you could give me some advice...:music_whistling:

Dear DCS users, Sooner or later I will need a new computer for DCS and other flight sims. I am not much of a computer expert, so I want to start from the following setup I put together on the Dell website (it costs about $2500, which is obviously a "little" high). PROCESSOR 2nd Generation Intel® Core™ i7-3820 (10M Cache, Overclocked up to 4.1 GHz) OPERATING SYSTEM Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English MEMORY 16GB (4 X 4GB) Quad Channel DDR3 at 1600MHz VIDEO CARD 4GB GDDR5 NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 690 HARD DRIVE 500GB SS Hybrid MAIN + 1TB 7200RPM Storage WIRELESS & BLUETOOTH 802.11n Wi-Fi and Bluetooth 2.1 EDR USB Combo Adapter OPTICAL DRIVE Single Drive: 24X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability Sooner or later I would like to run three monitors. Can you please make suggestions how to optimize my choices. Which ones are too much/too little for what I will likely need. Any help would be greatly appreciated.:helpsmilie:

Hi Hamblue, Already have trackIR, and love it. However, sometimes a quick glance in the mirror can also be useful. In any case, I am wondering why there is a left and right mirror on, but no corresponding command for the top mirror (as far as I can see)???