rfxcasey

No mods installed, ran a clean and repair, verified all files, uninstalled module and reinstalled it, still the same issue. Su-25T cockpit is mixed with the F-15e.

No worries, just trying to help out the OP.

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it RIGHT alt + Num 0?

So disabling memory integrity is the only way to get the MFD working in Win 11? I just received mine and having problems already. I can't seem to get it installed and working, could use some help.

A well made alternative tracking setup can be just as good if not better than TrackIR. In a blind taste test, you won't be able to tell which I shot you down with. To the OP, just make your own, there is info everywhere and I can help if you PM me.

Razbam is already offering the preorder at a discount, not allowing the stacking of discounts isn't anything surprising to me or out of the ordinary with any product.

Yes, that one will work. There is a "Douk Audio" version as well which is essentially the same thing. As I understand it the Mini NS-20G and similar are exclusively "full range" amplifier and lacks the sub filter and filter adjustment which I find comes in handy for dialing out higher frequency vibrations you don't want to feel, more so for the amp doing low frequency game audio recreation. I generally set my low pass frequency threshold higher for the amp doing SimShaker sim specific event duty to get some of the higher frequency nuances coming through like wing folding and the like. Regardless, reviews suggest the nobs on the Nobsound Mini NS-20G offered under various names feel cheap and the lack of frequency control wasn't going to satisfy me after having gotten used to more tweakability at my finger tips. Your mileage my vary.

Are you talking about the options under 'Special Options'?

For ultimate immersion get 2, one that runs off the game audio and the other that runs off SimShaker. The nuanced combination of vibrations is amazing. Buy 2 Dayton Audio or AuraSound transducers and 2x 100 watt mini sub amps off Amazon, with some speaker wire you'll be good to go. Get the Nobsound G2 amp with the lowpass filter and filter adjustment knob. They are like 60 bucks. Way smaller and better than the Buttkicker amps.

Can the effects be modified? Some like buffeting seem to come on too strong too fast, I'd like to get it tweak it.

Microsoft Sidewinder 2 force feed back.

https://discord.gg/wolfpack1

Just received my Orion 2 Max. Overall, the HOTAS seems good but there are a few issues that make me take pause. They upgraded the throttle so the cables don't twist and bind anymore, but it's now all plastic, even the mounting plate. They added some features over the mounting plate holes to connect the throttle to some of Winwing's other panels, but it blocks the mounting holes in such a way that really only 2 holes are usable for screwing directly to a table or mount, leaving only 2 screws, one at the front and one at the back, in plastic, which I can definitely see causing the mounting plate to crack in time. Also, while the finger lifts being made of plastic doesn't bother me, what does bother me is that the plates that hold the throttle handles to the throttle mechanism of the base are now plastic as well, even on the non finger lift version, whereas on the original Orion they were metal joining plates albeit without the finger lift option. I would have thought Winwing would have included the original metal connection plates even when buying the 'max' so you could use them if you wanted instead of the finger lifts, or as a fallback in case the finger lift plastic joining plates fail. As it stands, you have to use the finger lift hardware, there is no alternative. I don't think Winwing even sells the new plastic (ugh), non finger lift connecting plates by themselves. Also, on the F-16 ex stick, the top hat of the 'ex' addon module is basically useless unless you have the longest thumbs in the world, you have to dramatically move your hand position to even think about reaching them and it's still uncomfortable. The stick and throttle themselves feel fine, very good actually, but I question the quality and longevity of the buttons and many other components. If Winwing hadn't cheaped out on some key areas, they have a knock it out of the park hit on there hands. Unfortunately, as it stands now, I can still smell the Chinese coming from it. Haven't gotten the stick rumble to work either yet. Their software is a bit, eh, well, Chinese is all I can say. If they'd have just included metal plates to join the handles to the throttle I'd say it met expectations. As it stands, the finger lifts and 'ex' shaker kit seem like afterthought money grab addons who's quality does not match the HOTAS itself.

Check out Composite Air Group, they are recruiting. https://www.cag-51.org/ NATOJO is another good one. https://discord.gg/taNx93nZgZ

I wrote a powershell script to do it for me so not necessary in my case.

Once you get it once you pretty much got it from there. After the first time you get it right just practice it like 2 or 3 more times and then make sure to do it at least once or twice a week for a couple of weeks and lock it into your brain. ONE LAST THING I FORGOT TO MENTION, after you get it right and the ACLS is flying your jet, you still have to call the ball through the radio menu when you are about .6 miles from the boat. The option will appear in the comms menu.

This is for the Super Carrier and the other is for the free carriers. The frequencies are set up by the mission creator, you can press 'K' I believe and it will show the frequencies. Best to use a ACLS training mission or, if you're feeling adventurous, make your own ( included in first video) and you gain even more understanding of what's going on. Pause the videos after each step and write down the proceedure, it helps. I included the 3rd video because it's got a good visual representation, you can pause the video, take a screenshot of the visual aids and then keep them for your reference. You're basically trying to fly down to a point in space where the ACLS can lock on and remote guide your jet from there. Don't forget what I posted above "When you hear "ACLS lock-on" over the radio and see 'mode 1' on your ACL page then hit CPL on the autopilot to switch, then hit ATC and make sure it engages i.e. not flashing. From there, its hands off and the ACLS will land the jet, works for me every time." It all happens quicker than you'd think so you have to practice the procedure a little. If you still aren't getting it after this, PM me and I'll schedule to get with you and do some practice.

Anyone know the specifics?

You don't control the throttle with ATC, the ACLS does. When you hear "ACLS lock-on" over the radio and see 'mode 1' on your ACL page then hit CPL on the autopilot to switch, then hit ATC and make sure it engages i.e. not flashing. From there, its hands off and the ACLS will land the jet, works for me every time.

Make sure ALR- 67 power is on and dispenser switch is set to middle (on) position (NOT Bypass). Go to EW page, box ALE-47 at the top and hit the 'mode' button at the bottom till it says 'auto 1' etc. under the ALE -47 you boxed at the top of the EW page. See if that works. FYI: You can manually edit the 'CMDS_ALE47.lua' file in your 'F:\Eagle Dynamics\DCS World\Mods\aircraft\FA-18C\Cockpit\Scripts\TEWS\device\' folder manually to change your default programs so you don't have to program them every time you hop in the jet. Program 1 and program 5 are activated with the countermeasures fwd and aft buttons. Just be aware that after every DCS update it will revert back to the default file so make a backup of your changed lua file so you can easily replace it with every DCS update. I have a Powershell script that makes it as simple as double clicking a shortcut. Could probably use a batch file as well. Currently I have 8 chaff at 1 second intervals on program 1 and 8 flares with 1 second intervals on program 5.

Was unaware you didn't have to align for a hotstart, is this just an observation on your part or can you site other sources?

Side note, FLIR screen, box 'VVSLV' on the right, then put your velocity vector on your HUD onto the area you want to designate and hit the throttle designate button. Once you designate a target (or target area to search with your pod) with the velocity vector you can hit the markpoint 'MK1' button on the HSI and convert it to a mark point. You can do this to designate 9 separate markpoints. After you designate a markpoint hit the 'undesignate' button on your HOTAS. You can then designate a new target now by either slewing your pod (to another tank for example) or putting your velocity vector on another point and hitting the throttle designate button. Then hit the markpoint button again (will say 'MK2' now) to record the second markpoint. To cycle through the points you marked and automatically send your TGP back to them at will, cycle down the waypoints on the HSI with the arrows on the right until you get to the markpoints, then choose the markpoint you want e.g. 'MK1' and hit the 'WPDSG'. The way I like to work is, if I know a general location of baddies, I'll designate a point on the area with my velocity vector which will send my TGP camera to that point. Then I will create a markpoint for that location by hitting 'MK1' on the HSI so I can always go back to that point. Then I'll slew my pod around that area looking for targets, designating them and then converting each to it's own markpoint. This way, I can cycle back through my original area point and several marked targets with ease on my TGP. When you get to 'MK9' it will cycle back to 'MK1' and overwrite 'MK1' the next time you hit the button. It is also possible to use a HARM missile to locate a SAM sight after which it will show a square box on your HUD at the location of the detected radar emissions. Then, with 'VVSLV' selected you can put your velocity vector symbol on your HUD into the box and hit designate. The TGP will now slew to the SAM sight. You can make a markpoint for the sight, then slew the pod around the site, designate targets and assign markpoints for each. I don't usually do this but it is possible.

Just SCS down and then back to the direction of the DDI in question. Becomes second nature after a while.