Duckling

Congrats to the Altimeter, Linden. Could you post some pics of the rear and a side view of it ?

OutLAW, those panels looks great. Wish they'd been around when I started my 'jorney. Found something like'em years back for the Viper but yours are unique as far I know and a great way to start.

Looks great (and that's an understatement :-)

Hi DM and thanks. PM inbound. I seems to have f-d up when making the reply last time, sorry :cry:

Thanks HMA, but I didn't ;-) They are OMROM standard with a selfmade adhensive stickers on top Squere ones are 9x9 mm, B32-1210 and round is B32-1600. They are avalible in different colors (last 2 digits on the id). They fit the OMROM Tacticle switches B3F-4050 (think the ID is 1,27N pressured), IF you go for these, be sure to select the more heavier 2,5N instead. Not sure about the iD there though, Gives a more distinct feel when used. Main issue here is the caps is not backlit and the switches has a footprint of 12x12 mm that forces an adjusted layout vs the real CDU. Note also the odd spacing between those that replace the rockers If I'd ever make this trip again I'd go for Multicomps TLL-62BG or likewise. They has a smaller PCB footprint and an integrated micro LED. There are round and squere keycaps in colored backlit versions in aprox the correct size. Hope it is of some help Cheers Gus

Hehe thanks. But only if not looking to close It's way behind your standard quality ;-b

Long time since last update... CDU finally made (or rather kinda in draft mode). Buttons and paintjob is worse then bad but it seems to work at least

He's overloaded with work as far I know. Hopfully back soon

Incredible good looking Pit, Wasserfall. Seat looks great. Is it gauges in far rightside of the headrest ? What is their function ?

Looking good OutLAW ! (thanks for the kind words above) Regarding the topic above for fuel panel Pull/Push switches, it's as you say a matter of feel and preference. I used low cost switches (aprox 4$ a piece) found in car supply store. Pulling the knob get the lever/knob to rise about 10 mm, easy to find and verify the position http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Bil-el/Strombrytare/Dragstrombrytare-43024/ (this or one very close to this) Cheers Gus

PM inbound

@Moken.. Was the answer above what you was looking for ? ...

Darkwolf, please check your PM

Heres a copy of current cabling file (excel). Allmost up to date :-) HOGBOX_WireSchema_v1.2_temp.zip

Hi Moken. To avoid derailing Stelios thread. Check the reply here http://forum.lockon.ru/showpost.php?p=1547971&postcount=50

Quiz to me grabbed from another thread to here to avoid derailing :-) (Ignore bad spelling grammar please) Hi Moken. I'll try with best effort. Not sure I understood you correctly but ping back if not. But prior start, verify what you aim for. If it's a DCS only pit or panels you plan to build, I'd select Helios and a standard USB I/O Cards as Brydling or Leos (to name a few of those avalible) To avoid missunderstanding (ignore if already known)... SIOC is an event driven database used to control I/O by a script based languaged controll cards of OC. Through SIOC, you can address Opencockpits cards and modules (as far I know all of'em) of which the mastercard is one of the options The mastercard itself as base product, a generic card for digital input and output ports. Check OC for for additional info as extension bus and optional cards. To connect the Mastercard to your PC, you nowadays need the USB expansion card. This enable you to address 4 Mastercards. If additional Mastercards is needed, get an additional USB expansion card and up to four USB Expansion cards can be served by one SIOC server. Here's where it get a bit more tricky depending on what mean. In Short, look at SIOC and OpenCockpits card as an 'closed' environmet. To communicate with this 'box' from outside applications you need a toolset as Oakes scripts (for DCS) or FSUIPC for MS FlightSim. But within SIOC and by use of OC cards, you can set up allmost any rules you see fit. Sorry, could you rephrase the question if not already answered above Install SIOC, Connect the USB Extension card and the Mastercard to first slot (See Open cockpits docuementation for both these) From the Mastercards input/output blocks. Connect your switches, rotaries etc and verify connectivity. Within SIOC.ini use the templates to define what cards you have installad and on what USB ports. Check SIOC documentation of how to set up your set of connected cards To get DCS communicate with SIOC, you can use Oakes scripts. Note that this will give you the basic setup and on top of this you need to setup what functions and commands that will be communicated between DSC/SIOC

Thanks Icemaker. Both to know it works :-) and for sharing your config. Great reference :thumbup: Cheers Gus

Thanks SuberBus. Sounds like the jump to DCS World will be a challange. I'm not ready to make the upgrade yet so still hoping for the best. Only OC & SIOC/SoftTH in my Pit right now but it may change :-)

Incredible good looking pit icemaker.

hehe. why not. And possible an infrared headmonted cam to eliminate the need for panel backlight as backup-cam :-) Would bring havoc to the TIR accelerated setup but then again, a 1:1 ratio would be a headtwisting experience. Think about adding a setup like that to a Pit on a moving platform (1-2 DOF would make the day) ? (Wify would kill me if I forgot to bring the 'brown bag' when 'flying') Sorry for derailing but as you say, no harm dreaming

Hi Darkwolf. Sounds you in the same situation as myself some 'time' ago. Got the first stain of gray on my scalp then :-) Got some really appriciated help to troubleshoot my setup to get it working To ease the task, upload your: export.lua exportsupport.lua siocconfig.lua Any referenced files for your indicators (if used) A text export of your sioc scriptfile can be usefull Cheers Gus

Whats pops up in my head is the quiz if a detachable lower part of the Oculus Rift goggles would be a solution to a setup to use in a pit (when/if support for for the headset in sim is available) ? i.e to allow to see beneath the 'screen' for panels/keyboard etc. The distance Eye-Displays looks a bit tight though but managable. Could maybe be extended a bit more.. Holding my thick thumbs and hope for the best :-) An integrated VR headset with HighRes at consumer price sounds to good to be true

Recommend to get hold of the correct cable connector from Digikeys , Mouser etc. Forgot the type/name for this perticular standard but it exist as a standard product (solder type). If the center plastic tab is broken and stuck, a needle or a very thin drill (easy going..) can be used to remove it from the female connector in the base. On the other hand if rest of the extender connector is still valid, the centerplug is only for a guide to get it into the correct spot but dont push the stick back to the base with the broken tab in there Hope it can be of some help Cheers Gus

Thanks Superbus. Allways cautious when upgrading and will be some time before I try to make the jump :-) Holding my thumbs and hope for some insight on the upgrade path Cheers Gus

Very true, keeping the original keytop placement will force a custom made PCB or that the switches is seperatly embedded in the lightpanel (or likewise with separate wiring for each switch). Made some calculation for cost and effort and currently building using a large generic PCB/generic LAB board. Had to alter the layout of the individual switches though to coop with the board. Got my lightpanels and baseplates back from cutter last week but haven't started the soldering nightmare yet.. Having a smaller lowcost 3,5 LCD to get it to fit in avalible space. SoftTH and PeterP's export scripts made my day, LOL You might want to check out 'Linden' sale thread for panels. Not sure if his CDU is included/ready but ping him for more info. That unless you go for a iPad as Metal mensions or a LCD touchscreen and Helios setup