Boris

There's absolutely no reason that this shouldn't be possible with the numpad and I use it regularly. To move the cockpit view around, hold RCtrl + RShift, not RAlt + RShift. Num* is head forward, Num/ is backward, and Num8 and Num2 will move the view up/down. You save the view with RAlt + Num0. Much easier than editing the lua manually.

Many pilots seem to think it's underpowered: https://www.historynet.com/the-warplane-nobody-wanted.htm

Pretty sure he used the vice grip on the stick and the pipe-wrench on the collar. Some nice lever action there and "hey presto" broken stick. I totally get it though. I could completely see myself doing this after becoming increasingly frustrated :joystick:

I'm told that shipping of the part to US and many other countries is in excess of 60 dollars, which is completely ridiculous. Shipping to Germany is only 4,90€. If there are any others who would like me to order for them, I will order a batch and then distribute by mail. Depending on how many are interested, posting by letter (and divided shipping costs from the supplier) will only cost a couple of €.

The F-20 is a cool aircraft, but as you say, it was only ever a prototype. I don't think it makes much sense to build an aircraft for DCS that never saw any real world employment.

What freebies?

I don't think you even need to make a new grip profile. As I change grips regularly according to aircraft, I have a single profile for the Mogoos grip (which has the most buttons) and so far all other grips, including the F/A-18 grip, work just fine on the one profile.

You can definitely add all the axes you want and then some. I have never heard of an axes limit and have several devices hooked up with no problems. Firstly, it's good practice to clear all default axis assignments, as these can be forgotten and interfere. Then just assign the controls to the axes you want. There's several columns for different devices, so make sure you're on the column of the device you want to assign the axis to.

I'm sorry you had such a bad experience with force sensing sticks and DCS. This mod doesn't really turn the Warthog into a force sensing stick. It merely restricts the movement to have it act like one, pretty much just by adding a single part. This is possible thanks to the very sensitive hall sensor that is already in the Warthog. The point of this mod is not to have a better stick overall, but to have a more realistic experience flying the F-16 Viper specifically. I surely wouldn't recommend it to anyone who wants a better all round stick for all modules.

Here's a quick video to demonstrate the effect of this mod in practice:

I have a feeling it was put there specifically for use with DLC on the F-14

There is a way to mod the original Warthog base, which I recently came up with: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=245968 I can't overstate enough how well it works, especially considering the cost of the mod and the quality of the result.

Maybe so, but that’s not what I want in this case :)

I've been thinking about doing the same for a few years now, but never got around to it. Have you decided on a scale yet? At 1:72 for instance, I wouldn't bother with details like exact cockpit interior. Externally the A-10A and C are 99% the same.

I can imagine they might use a fictional country that happened to have bought tomcats in the 70s. The strange livery of some leaked photos would support this: In the original also, the name of the opposing country was never mentioned. The (eagle?) in a yellow circle is very reminiscent of the red star in a yellow circle of the original.

Falls jemand sich den überteuerten Thrustmaster F-18C Stick für so wenig wie möglich holen möchte... Bei Voelkner gibt es den für 186,16€ zu haben: https://www.voelkner.de/products/1386395/Thrustmaster-F-A-18C-Hornet-HOTAS-Add-On-Grip-Joystick-PC.html?ref=43&gclid=CjwKCAjwg-DpBRBbEiwAEV1_-AIveVELWGl31qqxlrZDiRRa5xQmURJh-pZaAST3VjOQA5ETS5OeYRoCWO8QAvD_BwE - 6,20€ Gutscheincode: 17478a349c84a319977a141fcd8c3da0 Kostet dann unter 180€ und versandkostenfrei.

Hi all, I have a couple of Warthog extensions to sell (by sahaj), as well as a stiffer spring that helps with recentering of extended sticks as well as nyogel grease, 95% full tube for regreasing the Warthog: Warthog extension, 10cm, metal look - 35€ Warthog extension, 15cm, black - 50€ Warthog red spring (stiffer) - 30€ Nyogel 767a - 17€ You can either buy all items or individually + shipping costs to your country.

Most people who have re-greased their Warthog have used Nyogel 767a. While this grease has very low stiction, it is also incredibly viscous, meaning the stick takes longer to return to the center. Is anyone aware of a lubricant that will make a stick center as quickly as possible?

The movie is co-produced by a Chinese company.

The deflection is so small it’s hardly noticeable. It almost feels like no deflection at all. It would be interesting to know how it compares, but I’m sure it won’t quite have the high precision of an FSSB.

Maybe this is a good solution for those of you on a budget: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=245968

While the thread title sounds ridiculous, i'm actually being serious. Well at least half serious - What I really mean is "make your Warthog behave and feel pretty much like a force sensing stick". In anticipation of the F-16 module I have been thinking about how to achieve the best controls set up, the F-16 of course being the first module to feature a side-stick. I only use a MongoosT50 base right now, so first I thought about just additionally mounting my old Warthog on the side and being able to switch grips when necessary. So far so good, the Warthog grip is a great representation of an F-16 grip, but the Warthog base has a lot of throw and doesn't at all behave like an F-16 stick should. So naturally I looked for other options and came across the no doubt very good, but very expensive options from http://www.realsimulator.com While this would be a great solution, 450€ is a lot of money. One night, lying in bed, another solution popped into my head. To be honest, I didn't think it would work, but it's seemed so crazy, it just might work. In any case, I had nothing to lose. The Warthog isn't my primary base and I've opened it up a few times before. A couple of years ago my Warthog suffered the infamous o-ring problem so I scoured the internet for a replacement part. In my search for 64mm (outer diameter) rubber or plastic rings I came across this industrial product: https://www.esska.de/shop/Dichtung-Zubehoer-Moertelkupplung-fuer-Groesse-25-35-50--230073x-4860?hlid=23007301 English: https://www.esska-tech.co.uk/shop/Sealing-Accessories-Mortar-Coupler-For-Size-25-35-50--230073x-4860?anchor=anchorVariants&hlid=23007304 Make sure you get the 64mm part Due to the low price I ordered it without hesitation, but ended up finding that it is way too thick for the Warthog as a viable o-ring replacement. It effectively immobilzed the stick eliminating any movement. The rubber seal went into a box somewhere to be forgotten, that is until now. Lying in bed I remembered this and thought, that's pretty much how you would want a force sensing stick to feel. So how to generate the movement? It turns out the Warthog hall sensor has an incredibly high resolution - 65536 across the axis, compared to 256 with a CH. Any tiny movement on the immobilzed stick would transfer to the sensor with a resolution that is still more than enough. So this is what I did: I opened up the Warthog. I inserted the rubber ring part where the o-ring usually goes (it appears not to fit at first, but it squeezes in nicely). I left out the small springs to ensure more centering force. I closed her up again. I mounted the base to the side of my chair and attached the grip. Then of course I had to recalibrate. I first tried the Warthog calibration software but I quickly found that it wants you to fully deflect the axes in order to progress. So I just used the windows calibration tool. I deflected the axes as far as they would go with reasonable force and calibrated the stick to the new, (almost non-existent deflection) limits. So how does it do in DCS? The answer is: Suprisingly well! So well in fact, that the result is satisfying enough to actually fly with. I tried the new pseudo force sensing stick with two FBW planes, the F-18 and the M2000 and it works like a charm. I had to do a few things to improve the behavour though. The centering is not 100% perfect, but the stick does center ok, considering what I've done to it. In order to get around this I have set deadzones of 4 and curves of around 16. Other than that I have to say I'm incredibly pleased by the result of such a simple mod. I'm really stoked that it actually feels like I'm using a force sensing stick. One small caveat that I have to mention: I did regrease the stick with nyogel in the past. It may be that the stick has too much sticktion for this to work with factory grease. Maybe a more slippery grease might improve centering. But who knows, maybe that's not necessary at all. I hope this mod serves as inspiration to some of you and maybe a few people can also come up with some cleverer ideas to improve on this.

I think it's to adjust for any slight differences people might be experiencing with the left and right panels. Apparently some panels will be slightly less bright or have a slightly different color tone out of the factory.

While both are amazingly modeled and for that reason you can't really go wrong, they are totally different beasts. The Tomcat is an old-school aircraft that is a challenge to fly and feels very visceral. The Hornet is far more slick. It comes down to what you want. Personally I love the challenge of older aircraft, but others love the newer tech.

I can imagine that this is a feature that might come with "Modern Air Combat" to make it more accessible to the mainstream VR crowd. You'll never be able to beat the realism of the actual haptic experience that a HOTAS provides, so I don't think many DCS players will ever use VR controllers as their primary means of interaction with the sim.