Hempstead

I personally use Gordon URW. You can buy the 3 fonts (condense, normal, and bold) for about USD $35 on myfonts.com. However, there is an Open-Gorton otf font, here, https://github.com/dakotafelder/open-gorton, under the very permissive MIT license. I personally have not used this... but it looks quite close... the 'M''s middle "v" is a bit lower than Gordon URW, and the '5' looks a bit funny. But other than that, it looks pretty close.

STMF2: " 3 × 12-bit, 0.5 µs ADCs with up to 24 channels and up to 6 MSPS in triple interleaved mode" MCP3204: 12-bit resolution • ± 1 LSB max DNL • ± 1 LSB max INL (MCP3204/3208-B) • ± 2 LSB max INL (MCP3204/3208-C) • 4 (MCP3204) or 8 (MCP3208) input channels • Analog inputs programmable as single-ended or pseudo-differential pairs • On-chip sample and hold • SPI serial interface (modes 0,0 and 1,1) • Single supply operation: 2.7V - 5.5V • 100 ksps max. sampling rate at VDD = 5V • 50 ksps max. sampling rate at VDD = 2.7V Plus, MCP3204 has an SAR (the most basic ADC kind)... Although STMF2 datasheet doesn't say what kind of ADC it is... but by the 6msps number, it's unlikely an SAR. Also, since the ADC is an inbuilt ADC supporting DMA, it's clearly much faster in reading the data. You can probably read up to 6 million samples per second, and set it to read sample/read/transfer multiple channels all automatically. I did exactly that in Hempstick. Anyway, clearly STM's on-die ADC is much better than the MCP3204... on paper. What's unfortunately for you is that the STMF2 costs $12+ a pop... the STMF0 ($2.50) has a crappier ADC and doesn't say exactly what sample rate it has (but still 12bit, can't be worse than MCP3204's bare minimum of 12 bit, 100ksps.). You just have to pick the right STM MCU with the right ADC.

Try plug it in a motherboard's USB2 port. Try avoiding any USB3 port if you could. Do not use any USB2 or USB3 port on a hub.

Ah... I am sorry... the word "Warthog" didn't register in my brain because the thread says Cougar... Warthog uses smaller connectors... I think it's JST 1.25mm, like this one, https://www.amazon.com/Keszoox-Pre-Crimped-Compatible-Controller-Connectors/dp/B09F3TQS9V/ref=sr_1_1?crid=JIOGEC91JHYV&keywords=MX1.25&qid=1704476122&sprefix=mx1.25%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-1&th=1 I have a box of that... it fits fine.

Digikey's p/n #: 455-1001-ND. MFG p/n: EHR-3. However, these are just the plugs... you still need the pins. It's Digikey p/n: 455-1042-1-ND, MFG p/n: SEH-001T-P0.6. I happen to have some 3-pin connectors. Send me your address on FB chat... I will mail you some.

Wunderwaffe V pro?

I wonder how much resolution you get out of this... have you ever tested it under joytester2 or something similar? Have you tried to do F-16 A2A refueling with it? Are you turning your 14bit joystick into an 8bit or even worse stick? I don't know. Please share the resolution you got out of it.

That looks more like more than one controller axes are bound to throttle function of the aircraft. DCS has that nasty old old habit of when detecting a new controller, it will automagically bind every single axis on every single new controller on X, Y, Z, Rx, Ry, and Rz, to some "reasonable" function, as if that controller is the one and only controller. So, you will end up with multiple axes from multiple controllers all bound to the same function... say the throttle function. So, different axes from different controller will fight for dominance. The weirdest part is... not all controller will report all values each reporting cycle. A lot of controller firmware will NOT report values if there is no value change. I should know that... because I considered doing that when writing Hempstick firmware, but decided against it. I mean, what exactly is the benefit of doing that, other than saving some bandwidth? Don't give a s*** about saving some USB bandwidth! So, it's possible that even if you have multiple controller axes bound to the same function, it doesn't always manifest itself until you do something accidentally to activate it... like moving another throttle and generates some vibration.

Are you going play a lot of kiddie games with a standalone Quest 3 without hooking up to a PC? If not, then save the $200! No offense... I mean, the gfx and CPU power of Quest is just not enough to push high end rendering... so the gfx on standalone games are necessarily toned down... Just look at Meta's own cartoonish Horizon thing... that cartoonish style is a necessity, not just "cute." Ok... fine... it's not just kiddie games... there is always porn.

Oh…. There is more! Of corse I rebooted many times before and always got that problem w/ 8 device limit. After I “removed” the Razer Tartarus device, after reboot, of course it came back. But… now everything still work, including the two virtual Razer XBox360 devices I removed before to fit everything under 8 devices. Now, all 11 devices showed up in joy.cpl as well as DCS.

@MAXsenna OMG! You are right... it's the F'ing Razer Tartarus Pro! It's not even Razer Huntsman v.2's virtual joystick. I basically "Remove Device" on Razer Tartarus... (which will come back on next boot), and then started plugging in stuff, whether I use them or not... 2x MFDs, 2 Warthog Throttles, TM Viper throttle, TPR, Boeing TCA yoke, throttle... and then all all showed up in joy.cp.... and in DCS as well. I removed Huntsman v.2 device as well... but this one is annoying... in which it comes back all by itself a couple of minutes later, but it does not impose that 8 device limit. So, even Huntsman v.2's virtual joystick showed up inside joy.cpl as well as in DCS! Thanks a lot, man!!!

Not this Windows Device window... R-click on any one of them, say TWCS Throttle, and select Game Controller Settings... In that non-resizeable popup window... If I have Razer's two keyboard generated joystick... then TM's Viper gets bumped off the list. Once it gets bump off this list... I can't see it in DCS. So, I am now suspecting that it's something between Razer joystick driver and TM Viper using some older DirectInput API. And BTW, I am using Windows 10.

Would you please post screenshot in the DCS Control showing 11 controllers please, excluding Keyboard, mouse, and Oculus Controllers.

In the front of a Cougar MFD, you'd see 4 screws, at each corner.... they are fake plastic screw plugs... take a small rod and pop them out from the holes in the back.

On the 9th USB HID device? Please show us 9 or more controller devices in DCS settings, and in Windows gaming controller property window.

Sure... Price Unknown battleground, if you have an arm and a leg to spare. https://flightdecksolutions.com/our-fleet/FA-18 https://viperwing.com/f-18-cockpit-simulator/

Ok... then the obvious question is -- how do you do it?

DCS seems to have the same problem. If a controller is not listed in the preferred game controllers when you open the Devices & Printers, select any gaming controller, r-click and select "Game Controller Properties". If your controller is not listed in the little un-resizeable little popup box, then, DCS doesn't seem to be able to access it. I have 2 Razer optical keyboards, a Razer Tartarus game pad... each has analog optical keys... and they all wanted to emulate XBox 360 game pads... thus showing up with 3 additional XBox 306 gaming pads... and it seems M$ prefers to list XBox 360 pads instead of "others'." Meaning, when I plugged in TM TCA yoke/box, TM Warthog stick/throttle, TM Pendulum Rudder, and then TM Viper TQS... or even a Hempstick,... some of them won't show up on that list... and guess which ones don't get "preferred?" What I see is that any controller doesn't show up on this list will not show up on the Control config screen of DCS, and the input of such controller will not be read by DCS. My guess is that DCS is still using DirectInput, limited to 8 controllers (not a bad thing, b/c the newer console-centric XInput will only allow 4 controllers; 8 is still better than 4 from our PoV). Anyway.... if you want more than 8, you'd have to combine a bunch of them using either vJoy or TARGET.

Reinstall DCS worked. That means, Ultraleap modified my DCS settings and/or installation without notifying me, nor my permission, not in the OS, nor OpenXR layer. Originally, I had DCS release installation, i.e. DCS World, then converted to OpenBeta, so my directories had the names "DCS World" instead of "DCS World Openbeta." Now, I directly downloaded and installed OpenBeta. And I also renamed the old DCS World installation directory to "DCS World.old" so it doesn't get overwritten, and got some Ultraleap modified leftover stuff. This way, I can be sure both the installation and Saved Game Data are new without any leftover. Also the old files in the Save Game Data are preserved (so I can copy my input configurations back; my git repo for this dir was a bit old as I am still testing 2.9 settings and the new TM Viper TQS + Warthog throttle combo). But this also means that Ultraleap's uninstaller did not cleanup after itself regarding its "unauthorized" modification of DCS. There is one other possibility... DCS detected Ultraleap and modified itself or my settings to get that... and when Ultraleap was uninstalled... it breaks. I don't know which. I am sure there is an easier way than to uninstall and reinstall/download the 400+GB of modules... but I can't find it with google. What else did Ultraleap break? MSFS 2020? I don't know.

Urgh... I bought an Ultraleap 2 for an experiment for an idea.... installed the tracking software... ran it... it seems to track my finger tips quite accurately (that's what I need, because Oculus Quest Pro's hand tracking is very inaccurate in the Z direction; try hold out both of your arms flat out, and try to touch your two index fingers together in VR, not passthrough, it's about 2 cm off in the Z direction). BUT... going into ED now gets me no Oculus controllers! In the [Settings] --> [VR] tab, it showed a blank page, and took forever to finally filled it up with options... and to my surprise... VR controller is disabled, and the only other option is Ultraleap! Going to the [Special] --> [UltraLeap] options, and it tells me to "Disable the VR controller in the VR tab...." I didn't want Ultraleap... I just wanted to test it... not getting hijacked by Ultraleap! My quest controller works great for now.... Found no way to disable it... after an hour of googling... so I uninstalled Ultraleap software... and now DCS crashes. Now I am uninstalling/installing DCS...

Sorry about that, I copied URL of the "Preview" link as the blog author... instead of what the public would need. Here's the URL for the public. https://blog.hempstick.org/2023/09/a-pit-finally.html Ok... I do have a lot of tools... including several CNC mills/routers, and a lot more tools that go with them... but, this one is an easy build. Except cutting the aluminum extrusion, cutting the L-brackets, and drilling the L-brackets.... this thing is pretty much build in place, right in my home office, which is combined with my gaming space. I just pushed my office chair away. Cutting the extrusions and the L-brackets... a hack saw will do just fine.... it's just that a USD$99 band saw will make your life a lot easier with less swearing, same goes to cutting the L-brackets. Oh, well, same goes to the $99 drill press. I did use my CNC mill as a drill press, and my hydraulically controlled metal cutting bandsaw to cut the aluminum, but I didn't use any other tools in the garage other than deburrer and such simple hand tools. The $99 bandsaw and $99 drill press are usually designed for wood... so they are way too fast for doing metal works... but for the small amount you need to do... they will do ok. Just don't push too hard and let the tools do the work instead of forcing them. Except cutting/drilling the extrusion and L-brackets, the only space I used was the space the "pit" eventually occupied and the space my office chair occupied, plus a strip of 1'x6' space next to the pit (you know, laying out the tools and screws for easy access.) It's a 56" x 78" space. Once you cut/drill the stuff you need, it's very IKEA, except there is no instruction booklet. Oh... if the NLR Boeing ed. is > USD $1,000, then, this solution not only is hell more flexible, it's quite a bit cheaper, particularly if you go for the cloner extrusions.

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/1634444484406261711/5159989745868759669 Build in a weekend (in the first post, linked above). I use the original 80/20 extrusion.... they are much more expensive than the cloner stuff. But note that for this stuff, the connectors are the expensive stuff. However, I figured out to use just L-shaped aluminum bars cut into L brackets with two holes drilled into each. That saves a lot of money... and most importantly the damn-it-I-need-more-of-this-bracket-order-wait-for-shipment problem. All you need for tools are a bandsaw, a drill press, and some hand tools. This one you see in the blog was made with 2020 (2"x2") and 1010null (1"x1"). 2020 members are used for main structure, and 1010 members are used for just mounting the "instruments and controllers." Total cost is not much cheaper than Next Level Racing... (just the IKON racing chair is about $250).... but it's immensely more flexible (I have already reconfigured it 3 times).

Well, it does have a pointer, and used to have a laser beam too but the MT release broke the laser beam... and I mean using the trigger, buttons, and thumbstick to manipulate the buttons, toggles, and dials. Directly using the virtual fingers to press/flip/rotate is just difficult. For instance, with the F-16 HSI HDG dial trying to set your heading... I use the thumb stick to do that. It's difficult to get within a degree precisely, but I can easily do two degree resolution.

Added more stuff to the "pit." Mind you, I ain't building a 1:1 pit. I am building a pit for functionalities and flexibility. https://blog.hempstick.org/2023/09/to-pit-to-pit-add-more-stuff-to-pit.html

Sure... send me an offer. I reserve the right to cancel the deal and refund if the shipping cost is too crazy. I mean, if the shipping cost is like USD $100, then I might as well just keep it.