BitMaster

Windows runs fine w/o activation. The only thing which won't work is Desktop bling bling, that's all, colors and Wallpapers. Before you touch any dials and mess with them, be sure to have the correct dial !!! SA-Volts is a VERY sensitive setting as said above...that was close to sudden CPU death

To me it sounds like your IMC can't fiddle out the RAM settings once your CPU is in OC mode, hence the retry/reboot. I haven't read above that you tried to up the volts a little when in XMP. try some 0.05-0.15v more and see if that helps to register the RAM on boot. Likely, you got an unlucky combo of RAM-Board-Bios at this moment in time. Another Bios might well cure the symptoms, might, maybe not.

RAM works like good grease...and if you don't have it on but need it it's anything but smo-o-o--oo-t-h

I shouldn't have thrown it away a decade ago, what a pitty ! Great to see the Grandfather of all Hotas still going strong with some love & dedication

When I zoom far out, it seems to me that Nvidia is letting loose on the Gamers and AMD is willing and more and more capable of catching them. AMD is gaining momentum on all fronts, including relevance in the most profitable price range of GPU's, 500-1000€.

Just forget the Intel option, not for a gamer, even less for a simmer

FWIW: One of the recent official Win11 images that you could download from MS had an issue that it wouldnt allow installation of further updates and general issues and users who have those issues are advised to redownload the latest image from MS that has this issue fixed. Iirc it was the image from around Oct '24 till a month ago or so. I think Google holds the info about the ISO in question, so you can check if you used this unlucky ISO image and got stuck. If yes, do it again Jack, with a proper ISO. ...and some installs just go south from the first minute on, seldom but does happen. Wipe it, and start all over before you invest more time in fixing quirks.

I would, before you may waste more time, try your TiR setup on another PC to verify it is working properly and not defect. Once you know it is 100% in working order troubleshoot your PC further.

Cloud Backup can save your day, happened to me last week...LoL took 2h on Gbit to Restore "C" from the night before...what a blessing. What I would not do, for no game, is place it's settings folder on a OneDrive mirrored folder. That is bound to cause problems down the road imho. The biggest benefit from my perspective of 1 drive vs 2 drives is foremost the direct attachment to the CPU with 4 PCIe lanes and not routed through your Southbridge. If that actually shows some beneficial effect in DCS.... who knows ..=?!

It may work better with 2 but it may work just as well with 4. There are so many variables that you have to try each configuration to actually know. What you should know is, regardless of 32GB or 16GB modules, there are no 32Gbit DDR4 dies for Client Computers modules. There are 16Gbit dies but they have a latency penalty but alow speeds in the 4xxxMHz range....which is of no actual use or benefitial for your AMD 5700X/B550 combo...your world ends at 3600MHz, as does mine, see my sig. The best way, for your config, is 4 modules with Samsung B-die with 16 dies on each module for 16GB size. B-Die only comes as 8-Gbit but is the best for lowest latency in your desired speed range 3200-3800 MHz. B-Die is not the best for way up the 4xxx range but it's the king in 3600ish MHz range and yet unsurpassed. The thing you have to look for when looking at DDR4 kits and spot the B-Die based kits is the latency on 2nd tier , they all do 3xxx ( 3200-3800MHz ) 16-18-18-38 or 18-18-18-42 or worse but only B-die has 14-14-14-36 or 16-16-16-36 or 38, only B-dies afaik have secondary values of 16 or even 14, x-16-16-x. A 3600MHz kit for you would be 3600-16-16-16-38 or maybe 36, 1T, maybe 2T. That is 99,99% Samsung B-die and no Micron or Hynix or other Samsung Die. You want "B"-die, THE "B" die Still, even with the best kit with best knowledge, there are variables and hurdles, Bios versions, Volts, etc... just want to mention that again, there is no guaranty.

The devil is in the detail and DDR4 does not have DIE's large enough to make 32GB module with just 8 Dies, each 32Gbit, THERE ARE ONLY 16Gbit ones and those are not Samsung B-die, those only do 8Gbit Dies. So, whatever option in DDR4 realm you opt for to get a 32GB module, you ALWAYS end up having "16" 16Gbit non-B-Dies on that module...and that 4 times !! This is the heavy load to lift for your IMC and it will not do it with fast settings at all, 99,99% sure...it may make it at JDEC 2133/2666MT/s default settings and that is what Intel/AMD usually also state in their papers. To have fast and stable 128GGB you need to move to DDR5 and WAIT until 64Gbit Dies are available, they aren't yet either !!! 32Gbit dies are out, so you can do 64GB with 2 modules, each module only holding only 8 DFies each...making it so much easier for the modules, IMC and traces and what not else to achieve speeds beyond the DDR4 realm. Again, 128GB is still a bit away, even on DDR5, if you want fast, reliable XMP/EXPO capable modules with 8 Dies only. I am happy that my 4 modules, each has 16 Samsung B-dies, 16GB, 4 of them, total 64GB, takes the beating of heavy o/c and heavy overvolting for over 2 years now, respect to Samsung. There is no such thing as B-Die FTW !

Be happy that it works ! None the less, I would investigate at whjat specs your RAM is running atm. CPU-Z or HWinfo can tell you that, both are free. My assumption is, the "Game Mode" also triggered XMP/EXPO and thus the Volts went up to 1.35v, which is the most common voltage used for XMP/EXPO settings across DDR4. Now check the Speed and Latency, maybe it's all there, all that you paid for. Maybe the settings are a bit lesser, then you can try to tweak them even more, if you want. The CPU-Z screenshot with the "Memory" tab shows the actual present settings The screenshot with "SPD" shows all XMP/EXPO settings stored in your RAM, not saying any of that is applied, see "Memory" tab for this. The other 2 screenshots are from HWinfo, showing the present settings and DRAM Voltage, yeah, mine is dialed to 1.488v resulting in actual 1.50v...but it's B-Die and that can take it 24/7/365 full tilt.

To test if they work at all, start with JDEC settings, which should be 2666MT/s with your kit, might even be 2133, doesnt matter, DEFAULT is now needed. Dial them in to JDEC, apply 1.2v and GO...if it fails to start, you can try 1.25v but anything else is a waste of time and effort. If they start and work ( hammer them hard for hours and hours ) you can THEN AFTERWARDS work your way up the ladder to 3xxxMHz and best achievable timings. But honestly, DDR4 2Channel/4Slots is a BAD START to have 128GB, either way you look at it. Those systems, if they have 128GB, stay strictly JDEC, slow but safe and are called Workstations with a limited set of tested and approved HW, Dell, HP, etc.... For a better 128GB setup, go DDR5, but even there...it's not fully ripe yet. I'd stick with fast 64GB DDR4 until DDR5 has 64GB modules at ~10kMT/s...that's when the show takes off and DDR4 is left behind in the dust, till then... not much to be gained but stress and grey hair for a premium price as early adopters. RAM takes 2+ years to overcome childhood problems....DDR-DDR2-DDR3-DDR4-DDR5 same game every iteration *and before you dial in 1.45v or more...verify your DIE can take it, Samsung B-Die can do so ( I run mine at 1.48v for 2 years now btw ), but some DDR4 dies die right away at 1.45v on the moment you flip the switch. Read your die, google it and make sure it can take the volts you aim to dial in !°!°!

As much as I love and use Linux, it is not the top choice for DCS. The sim itself is not the issue, that is more or less click and fly meanwhile via Steam Proton in DCS, doing that for years now. It's your peripheries like TiR, VR, Tablet-export-mods, etc.. that won't run at all or only with heavy tweaking beyond most player's capabilities. I have lots of games in my Linux, DCS, FS22/25, Racing games etc... they all work pretty damn good...but for example, some racing games misinterpret my Logitech Wheel with combined axis and there is no way to fix this, not that I have found one in 2 years of playing Farming Simulator 22/25. The wheel works in Project Cars and most other Racing games out-of-the-box flawless, in most cases with less fiddling than in Windows tbh....but if it doesn't, your alone in the dark ! Contact your peripherie vendors and bombard them with emails " We want Linux HW support, NOW!" that may change things faster, it's getting there slowly but still miles away.

If your HW hasn't changed a bit, yes, Win10/11 shoud activate again once it can contact the MS validation servers and verify your HW Hashcode versus one stored and marked as activated. So far so good...and you still haven't had the need to proof that you "own" a license. If, for whatever reason, and Firmware updates & upgrades have that potential to do so, your HW Hashcode has CHANGED --then-- you will need to verify your HW Hash versus a MS-Account holding 1 or several Win10/11 licenses. IF you have missed to bind your licenses to an MS account in the past it is likely too late to proof that you own a Windows10/11 license...and you are screwed. Honestly, raise the middle Finger to MS and go to eBay and get the cheapest code with PayPal ( in case it wont activate ). Doing it that way for years now and had no issues getting 10/11/365Office...whatever they do work, at least in Europe it's the law and legal to do so. US might be different here, YMMV. Tie your lics to a MS-Account guys. You will regret it on the day you need it least !!! You can revert to a local account afterwards, just tie it to it 1 time and you are all set, just in case your HW Hash changes for whatever reason, FW or real HW upgrades.

Best of all, typical Nvidia again, the ROP-Gate. They knew about the issue but sold them to you with a smile. You gotta be a BIG A//hole to act like Nvidia does. Ask a premium while selling lesser products.

Damn... and I hoped for a revival Man, that sim was awesome, but EF2000 by D.I.D. had something we still miss today....OK I shut up and dream of Dyn...Camp... lalalala

Money aside, sure, a shiny AMD Zen5 9950X3D, 64GB of excellent RAM and 2 NVMe Gen5 drives, coupled with a 5090 and a beefy PSU will yield some more fps and smoothness. But it's all new tech and there are always teething issues of one or the other kind, but hey, you have multiple PC's and thus must have some insight on how this all rolls and dont seem to worry about the expense either...Go for it. I'd watercool it all and thus would go for a 5090 FE, highest chances of getting a good waterblock, but time will tell what's being made available in that regard.

The 50% usage you refer to are for ALL-CORES of your CPU, that is irrelevant ! If you had 64 cores and 128 threads your full blown DCS experience would maybe saturate the "CPU" to ~1%..maybe less. What you need to look for is INDIVIDUAL CORE LOAD, that is the meter you need to apply.

750,-€ and not a single Penny more

Cheers LoL, that's a good 1st use case, at least it's electrically safe. Giggles aside, I cannot understand why Nvidia choose to go this way. They must have known that we will put a pile of sh/t on their name if it happens again...and it does...and here we are, putting the manure fork to work because they really deserve it.

After listening to DerBauer and Buildzoid and now reading Igor, I dare to bet that with those cards you won't achieve lifetimes as long as we used to. I would be astound if as many (maybe 4080 too)4090 and 5080 and 5090 run after 5 years as 1080ti did. They seem to be made just to last as long as warranty runs, if you are lucky. It is time to show Nvidia your cold shoulder and maybe cut your own finger a bit for your own sake in the future. Make your thoughts if you wanna be part of this very one-sided game

I have tried FSR with different games and I dont like it. For games that only have 30fps in wcs ( i.e. FS25 and tons of mods ) it's a graphical bonus that you pay with a VERY BAD LATENCY. For games that do 60fps I rather take true 60 than faked 90-120 cause, as you say and experienced yourself, moving things and very fine detailed things tend to smear and ruin the overall joy, not talking about black artifacts popping up in some games etc... that's even worse and a game breaker. I want true frames & lowest latency. I dislike that BS called DLAA, DLSS, FSR and what not else.

IIRC it uses Tensor Cores for DLAA & DLSS, so no AMD card can do it. If it does something, it's done by FSR3 instead but for sure not by any DLAA/DLSS Tensor core

HOW STUPID must Nvidia be to NOT BE ABLE to produce a reliable 600w cable. No rocket science, no nuclear tricks, no 10k kpa, PLAIN NOTHING that rests on their side of the scale. Almost ANY household appliance I have has 600+ watts, just to give a picture guys. No, Nvidia refuses to learn the lesson. This is so sad. and I will not suggest, sell, install, or fix any of those cards. Nada