Viersbovsky

I wondered whether Sky Crawlers would be in there, and there it is. Good movie, but in great Mamuro Oshii tradition, there are only 3 action scenes in that movie, the rest is philosophical talking and shots of people riding street cars. Not that that´s a bad thing, mind you, it just isn´t an action flick. And yes, that guy in the p51 look-alike just did a cobra with a piston fighter.

Uh... Thanks guys... Most of you, I guess?

The mechanism is construced in a way that you can not smootly move from one deflection to the other without feeling a certain spike in centering force in the center position. Usually, both springs hold the pedals in the center position, but as soon as you deflect only one of the springs forces the pedals back to center - the other spring is held back. This way, you always feel a sort of "bump" when going through center. On the other hand, center detent makes sure that there is a defined center postion. Center center center center.... Might have missed some centers there. As you might guess, this makes slight deflections harder to do. The only way to get a clear, defiend center position AND having no detend is using a cam mechanism, like the Crosswind pedals have.

Going to hijack this thread. My System is this: 8GB Ram, i5 2500k 3.3Ghz, Geforce GTX560Ti, Asus P8Z68-V LX Mainboard, Installed on a Samsung SSD, Windows 7 64Bit I upgraded my flight stick to Warthog, got pedals etc, but in the end my framerate is the limiting factor to me enjoying this sim. Framerate goes down significantly when firing cannon or when smoke is present. I know there are slowdowns in DCS that will only get solved when EDGE comes along, but changing monitor resolution greatly impacts my average framerate - thus the GPU seems to be the bottleneck in my case. I would like to upgrade but Radeon is out of the question with DCS and the nvidia GTX970 seems kind of like a bad deal with all its problems. Sooo, my question is this: Should I upgrade from my gtx560ti to 960 or is there not much performance gain to be expected? How is coil-whine with the 960? Is it as bad as with the other Maxwells?

So it is like -50%...+50% in normal mode with 0 being neutral and 0-100% with slider at 50% being neutral? Kind of like signed/unsigned variables?

Ah, yes it has been a while since that hint was posted by Flagrum... I switched to "slider" and it seems to work better. Now the question is: What does setting an axis to slider even do?

Nice! One last question (I don´t want to keep you away from working on this awesome project!), since the F-18 grip has 2 buttons less than the Warthog grip, will the WH grip still work with your base (in other words, can I simply replace the base and keep the grip)?

Sierra Hotel! Will the base use a "real" gimbal and have comparable accuracy/resolution? The base is my biggest single gripe with the Warthog right now.

Yep, I know. It just seems easier to me to judge whether the tank is empty by the indicator going down AND a characteristic sound being heard than by going by indicator alone. As soon as you hear that sound, check indicator, get rid of the bladder and stop the pump.

Hmm, that seems to correlate somewhat with Elmo´s statements, namely the shutoff valves only limiting the flow from the tank. I can´t rightly say that leaving the pump switched on and working against a partially closed valve sounds like a good idea... I am looking forward to your test results, I think I am just going to keep the valve and pump switched off until the rear tank is almost drained and then draw mainly from front. The warning lights are also unneccessary if one keeps looking at the indicators from time to time. The picture of the fuel system in the Dora manual could use a rework. The Kurfürst manual has a simpler but way more comprehensible diagram. Oh, on a side note I just remembered that the drop-tank pump seems to make a whirring sound when switched on with an empty drop-tank. This may help in getting rid of the bladder as soon as possible.

Hmm, I am not quite convinced, but it makes sense. Until someone has a better explanation, I will go with that. Thanks.

The manual actually states to leave the tank-selector at "open" at all times and control usage by switching the pumps off: e.g. when using a drop tank, set selector to open, switch off front pump. I actually set the selector to front closed and switch off the front pump, with no ill effect. I would really like one of the devs to chime in, I am somewhat confused. The description in the manual is quite contradictory.

Indeed, just look up voltage divider. HOWEVER, what you are looking for is resolution. The microcontroller must translate the analog voltage into a digital signal, using a built-in device called ADC (analog-digital converter). These have a set resolution, most have about 10Bit or in other words 1024 steps. An 8-Bit ADC will give you only 256 steps. Sooo, lets say we have a potentiometer that can be turned 260°, then with an 8 Bit ADC the angle for one step is rougly 1°. When using a 10 Bit ADC one step is about 0.25°. I must warn you though, even good pots tend to be quite jittery, due to ground loops and bad 5v supply from usb port. When using my notebook only on battery power, receiving signals from my microcontroller I get perfect 1024 steps from the potentiometer. As soon as I connect the power supply, I get only about 100 real steps, since there is significant jittering (about +-4 steps)! Trying to solve this problem is quite a hassle, most systems use filtering algorithms. A usb ground decoupler might be an easy the answer though. - I now try to go all digital. Also, pots usually can be only turned to a fixed degree, usually about 260°. There are multi-track pots that can be turned multiple times, but they still have a hard stop. Maybe you could use encoders? They output digital signals and can be turned freely. They might actually be better suited for trimming, but you need a bit more programming skills to use them. edit: The teensy might already have the necessary filtering though, just try a pot in the 1k-100k and see if it works for you!

Purely out of interest, as I don´t have the Mi-8. Why are the numbers on the axis in the smaller grid (second picture) not in order? There must be some kind of system behind it that I just don´t see yet...

:thumbup: That seems like a reasonable compromise. As soon as I get my headtracking gear working I will go and visit the ACG server, looking forward to it.

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=134378 It is already very noticeable in the Dora, and I think works quite well as a work-around to our limited imput-hardware. Just open the control indicator and try to roll the Dora at higher speeds - maximum throw will decrease a lot.

X-55 supposedly has a pretty bad button layout - you have to really strain your fingers to push some buttons without pushing others accidentally. I have an X-52pro, it is a nice stick, perfect for intermediate pilots. Normal or Pro... Pro just looks waaaaay nicer, honestly.

I guess what he meant was systems management and pilot workload. In the German planes, you don´t care about radiators, tank management etc and getting the thing running is easy as pie. In the Mustang on the other hand...

First coil-whine, and now this. Good thing that I waited with my puchase, I think I am going to skip this generation of cards.

Well, from my personal opinion as an engineer, after spending close to 12 hours trying to fix the stiction problem and thus having a good idea of the internal workings, I am not really impressed with the ´Hog. The basic principle of using a plastic cup gliding on a plastic ball as a gimbal is in my humble opinion fundamentally flawed. I can understand why they went that way (the Hall-sensor inside may get interference from any metal parts in proximity), as well as the stick being very heavy, but it is still a less than perfect solution. They could have gone with an oversized plastic Kardan gimbal using metal ball bearings or even just plastic bearings - everything would have been a better solution. Maybe you are lucky and you get a perfect stick with minimal or near zero stiction - mine had small metal splinters floating in the grease, scratching up the cup until I thoroughly cleaned everything. Even after all this work there still remains some slight stiction. I now use a Stick extension (about 30cm), and the stiction is barely noticeble anymore - good old lever effect. The problem is that there is not really any true alternative to the ´Hog available. There may be some solutions like Komodo´s stuff and the Black Mamba, but they are either difficult to procure or are in a different price range altogether. In the end though, the accuracy and feel of the stick is still top-notch. If you are unhappy with your current Warthog, return it. When repairing the stick you WILL damage wires, so you may not be able to return once regreasing everything. Get a new unit, maybe this one is better. If you are still unhappy with that unit, return that as well and look for another stick, the stiction problem is there to stay.

Das Problem sind die vagen Ankündigungen. Die Ankündigungen im September hatte ich (und ich nehme an ein Grossteil der anderen Nutzer auch) zum Beispiel so verstanden, dass sie fast "Gold" sind und gegen Weihnachten daher die Beta kommt, voller Release dann halt im Frühjahr. Aber jetzt stellt sich heraus, dass sie noch nicht einmal pre-alpha sind. Da ist die Enttäuschung natürlich groß. Immerhin gibt es jetzt endlich Videomaterial, aber es dürfte noch sehr viel fehlen (bis jetzt hat man noch keine Waffe im Schuss gesehen... Vielleicht noch garnichts implementiert?). Ich will nicht rummeckern, ich freu mich schon wahnsinnig drauf. ED ist ziemlich weit gekommen, ich kann mich noch daran erinnern, wie ich mich gefreut habe, dass es endlich ein 6DOF 3D cockpit für die SU-25T gibt. Nur wird es eben weiter dauern und dauern und dauern...

This thread is very nice: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=110779 I spent a lot of time in the Su-25T with my X-52, it is a fun plane to fly. I think there is another thread with useful tips regarding modifiers, I will see if I can find it.

Finally! I was getting worried, but now all my fears are alleviated. Keep the videos coming, keep pumping out info.

I´d say there are two ways to solve this: 1: Use the same chip but construct a better mechanism for it, eg. move the whole button instead of just that little nub. 2: Use a unit like the one in your topmost picture (mini potentiometer joystick like used in gamepads) and then use a microcontroller to read the inputs. The uC then translates this to I2c and sends it to the throttle (you simulate that As5013). Good luck!

+1, giving all ww2 planes that LOD should really be no hassle... But at least the box is fixed.