Viersbovsky

Wheel brakes should also be available as non-axis buttons. The brakes are only neccessary for taxiing, though. At low speeds, the rudder is only effective because of prop-wash. Therefore, you need extreme rudder deflection at low speeds. Press right-ctrl enter to see stick positions indicator. Check if everything works as intended. My procedure: -Trim nose heavy (or neutral, this way the tail will rise and you dont stall immediately) -Straighten tail-wheel -Pull stick back until wheel catches, no need to pull stick back completely -Full right rudder -Set throttle to 1.3ATA, should take about 3 seconds -work that rudder like crazy, if the nose even thinks about going into either direction, quickly use rudder to compensate -slowly move stick to center position as speed picks up, at about 100kph -neutral stick at about 150kph - you should now be riding on the main wheels with a flying tail - wait until you are at about 300kph - slightly pull stick back - you are now airborne - profit

That sounds like it has to do with the supercharger. I'm no P51 pilot myself, but I think it is a two stage system or has two modes. There may be some manual override to kick in higher gear at critical altitude, consult the manual.

I only speak from my experience and doing 2 months of reserach to find the perfect TV. I have just bought a new TV for gaming. It was an ordeal I tell you, an ordeal. The lowest you get today is usually 3 frame lag in PC mode with Samsung Tvs. Sony Bravia have excellent input lag of less than 1 frame, but they are all bent in the middle (yes, all of them, had to return mine - the packaging is atrocious). High input lag is the norm these days, even in PC mode you get noticable delay. Manufacturers do not care about use for gaming or monitors anymore, it is all about making Blu-Ray delivered picures as pretty as possible. 3 Frame lag may not sound like much, but it is enough to make mouse-movement unresponsive, you constantly overshoot. I'm not attacking you, just want to warn of this fact. In the end, I have settled for a five year old Samsung TV that was developed before picture improvement was all the rage and has only 1 frame delay. Sadly, it is no longer produced and hard to find.

Just a heads up if you consider buying a TV-screen: TV screens have a lot of input-lag nowadays (100-300ms!). They are thus hardly useable for gaming, this caused me a lot of headache. PC-monitors are way more expensive for the same size, however they offer way smaller input lag.

Well, not neccessarily. Echo38 is right. I have the Saitek Pro Flight pedals. They are adequate, if you get them for less than 150 bucks. They are clearly a step up from a twist grip. I had to set slight curves for the WW2 birds, however. If you have money to spend, buy a higher quality product. If you just want pedals, they are okay. Not bad, just okay.

Just my two cents: Speed should be as low as possbile as well as minimizing vertical speed. Pull the stick back to push the tail to the ground. This reduces the tendency to bank - though if you are too fast, you will be catapulted back into the air. In the end it is just training, plain and simple, you will solve this in no time!

DCS is not the most "stable" or predictable software out there, especially in multiplayer (it shows its age and is weighted by complexity). Sometimes you have "bending", where a plane simply gets displaced by hundreds of meters due to netcode and lag. Also, LOD is somewhat finicky. The modpack fixes this quite nicely though. Accusing someone of cheating should not be your first reaction.

As said, it´s called screen tearing (google it) and it is quite excessive in DCS, I get it too. VSync is the solution to this problem.

You could always make a wooden board in the right size and mount that on top of the stand, then attach the throttle to that. Nice find, maybe a bit too high for a stick with an extension, but I´ll buy one.

Su-27 video was a bit meh, but the F-15 footage was awesome! Please keep the videos coming.

Corsair? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baa_Baa_Black_Sheep_%28TV_series%29 After the corsair-ish cockpit in the teaser-image some time ago this settles it for me. Awesome bird, glad it is somewhat confirmed now! edit: Also, enter "black sheep" into Google, the avatar is one of the first pics to pop up. So, for all intents and purposes it is a "black sheep".

Always nice to see the Toad getting some love.

Wenn du´s nicht so originalgetreu brauchst, dann einen beleuchteten Druckknopf? Wenn er "eingerastet" ist, leuchtet er. Ansonsten wird es wohl entweder teuer werden, oder du bastelst selbst etwas mit einem Elektromagneten. Ist unter umständen garnicht mal soooo aufwendig, aber das hängt von deiner Erfahrung und den dir zur verfügung stehenden Fertigungsmaschinen ab. edit: Hier ist ein Link zu ähnlichen Schaltern, starte deine Suche von dort aus: http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/et-series/26208

Manual Steering Column...

Microsoft Fs4 on a 386 with a monochrome screen... I feel old now.

It´s been what, a week since you anounced working on a new guide and it´s already here? Don´t you ever sleep? Kudos man.

Hast ne PM, TrackIR würd mich sehr interessieren.

Conrad maybe? Something like this? https://www.conrad.nl/nl/search.html?search=TA103F1 edit: Wrong link, wrong diameter...

I would also really like to see the option for low-pass filtering. Many axes on the x52 for example jitter quite a bit, and thus are unusable for most tasks. For example, using the rotaries for setting wingspan in the Dora is recipe for disaster, all that jittering makes me sick. The option to filter inputs implemented directly into DCS would be a welcome addition.

I´m going to pass. Witcher 2 was unplayable for the first 6 months (would not even launch) and later patches significantly improved the game (added a new first act, changed combat etc). I have heard the camera and combat in Witcher 3 is somewhat wonky, so I will grab it once everything is fixed and the price is low. Maybe it´s awesome but once burnt...

There are two points at which the stick can be twisted: - Where the stick is connected to the base, the thread may have a little play - The joint is essentially a plastic cup on a ball. To prevent twisting, there is a guide which is a plastic half-ball with a slit in it. The counterpart to this has a small block that glides in this slit. Both pieces are plastic, so there is a little bit of play. This means that the stick can be slightly twisted. Both parts may also wear out, increasing the play. So in short: Yes, on most WHs you can twist the stick a little bit.

Usually the saying goes that pretty flies better. Pretty usually also sells better ;) Nah, point taken, I know that form follows function. This on the other hand looks simply like they tried to make it as goofy as possible.

This is the first plane in this thread that I would consider both ugly and lacking any coolness whatsoever. What were they thinking?

Just posting to stroke your egos Leatherneck, great update and looking forward to this bird!

How did you connect the tracker with DCS world? I have severe jittering in all axis, to the point it makes me physically ill. I use it as a simulated Joystick that uses the view-axis controls, but it seems unusable to me that way. Some software to smooth the reaction would be nice.