Viersbovsky

I guess he means the stiffening caused by airflow/speed. IIRC there is already some stiffening, but not modeled as in depth as in the 109.

Gardena hose adapter plus PVC-pipes. Purely DIY on my part.

Another solution would be to attach the Warthog grip to the Cougar base. That way you will get the feel of the WH grip and the smoothness of the Nxt gimbal. The additional precision of the WH is pretty much worthless anyway due to the stiction.

Did the re-greasing - did not help much. What helped was a stick extension (35cm). You don't feel any centering force anymore, but because of lever effect there is no noticeable stiction. So this may be worth a try for you since you do not have to open the base to install an extension. Maybe with a very short extension (10cm?) you would still get centering force but also less stiction? May I ask why one would move from the Cougar with such a mod to the Warthog? That modded gimbal looks like the non-plus-ultra to me, it even has hall-effect sensors if I remember correctly. What does the Hog have that the modded Cougar doesn't?

With rudder pedals, I assume? Just a little hint, set all non-symmetric axes (throttle, brakes, zoom) to "slider" in the axis modification menu. It should not make any difference, but it seems to work better for some mystical reason. If you want to try a helo, try the Huey. It has one of the - maybe even the best flight model of any helicopter in any simulation. Helicopters in hover are a bit hard to get into, but in forward flight they act very similar to planes. Helos are great fun to fly and and a real challenge. In this case, I recommend the Su25T (since it's free), Chuck's guide and this thread: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=110779

Depends on which plane interests you, honestly. In my opinion, it is not really of any use to learn, lets say, a ground pounder when you actually love dogfighting and vis-versa. On the other hand: TF51 Is free and included in DCS world. Is the easiest to take-off, cruise and land in of the warbirds. If you are interested in warbirds, this module is a good start. Have I mentioned it's free? There may seem to be a lot of switches at first, but you only need like 5 to get the engine running. SU-25T Is free with DCS World. A ground pounder that is FC3 level fidelity. That means no clickable cockpits and simplified system management. Is still loads of fun to fly, especially with its pretty nice flight model. FC3 All FC3 craft are reduced system complexity with no clickable cockpits. So you can start each plane with only some button presses. System modeling is not as in-depth as in the A-10 and KA50, but still demands study and training to use properly. I have not yet flown the trainers or the Mg15/Sabre, so I can't give you an opinion on them. Also, easy really depends. Some planes are easy to fly but have devilishly complex weapons systems (A-10C), others are hard to fly but very simple when it comes to systems (Huey, warbirds). I would also like to direct you to Chuck's tutorials. They are excellent to get started. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=135765

I assume you have the HOTAS Warthog? There are no "forks" in there - it is a single magnet that "hovers" over a sensor. There should also be no electrocuting of the user whatsoever! This sounds like a part of the gimbal is broken and has damaged the wires that go from the grip to the base. That will cause the uneven force required as well as the sudden firing impulses as well as miscalibration. Look at this video to get an idea how it works on the inside: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQOOoPdmRl8&feature=iv&src_vid=w6LX4GMJIj4&annotation_id=annotation_1579589969 If you are out of warranty, you may want to disassemble the stick to find the problem. Broken parts may be procured from Thrustmaster for an unreasonalbe price. If you still have warranty, just contact support.

Thanks guys! Weird that I missed this since I check the boards daily. Ah well, now I can at least see what the other options were. But on topic, I guess that what we've got now with Edge is good enough for most people, a bit more eye candy is always nice, but a dynamic campaign or fully modeled fast movers are true game changers. You will get a lot more mileage out of them.

May I ask, where is this poll that some people are talking about? I can seem to find it...

Thank you for those graphics! Cutting a U into the chair won't be possible or do any good. The problem is that the stick hits my legs/thighs when pulling it back and to the sides. It is also my office setup at the moment, so I cannot really modify it. The chair has an uncomfortably long seat with whole 50cm length - I will probalby buy a new chair that is more comfortable to sit, fly and work in later. Maybe when I move I will also be able to have a dedicated office and a dedicated flight/gaming place. I have measured the current setup again and the stick extension is actually 350mm! With the grip that is 550mm. Way too long for normal use. So, my plan going by the FW190 layout and the image I attached: - shorten the stick extension to 250mm instead of the former 350mm - the whole stick will be 450mm (including grip, that is ~18inches) After a bit of searching most of the sticks in regular aircraft seem to be roughly 15 inch, I will not go much bigger than that. It also will coincide the throw of the stick with those in the linked image (7 inches in either direction). Will also have some kind of bend/plate at the top to move the grip closer to me. - build a stand that is 40 cm high. The office chair will be 50 cm high so the gimbal is 10cm below, like in the FW190 drawing - pedals will be moved closer to the chair so I can comfortably use them without stretching or turning in the chair This way, I will sit more upright and be able to move the stick without it being blocked by my legs. The shorter throw will make Huey flying a bit more tricky, but it will be in a more reasonable size - moving the stick from side to side in a WW2 dogfight was pretty uncomfortable and I was in constant danger of damaging the gimbal. If anyone else has some input or more layouts, I'd be very pleased if you posted it!

Hi fellow tinkerers, maybe one of you can helo me with my problem. I may not have a whole pit, but my HOTAS Warthog base is floormounted on a wooden board. The stick uses a self-made ~30cm (12inch) extension. The pedals are mounted on the board as well and can be position adjusted, using drawer slides. I use a normal office chair. Now you may see that having the stick so close to the ground with such a massive throw is somewhat uncomfortable. I have set my chair to the lowest possible position (30cm), but the stick still collides with the edge of my seat when I pull it all the way back, so the base must be far ahead to prevent this. The result is that I sit arched forward - I am no old fart yet, but I can still feel my back disagreeing with this setup. Flying gets uncomfortable quite fast. As a stop-gap solution I have built a small stand to elevate the base slightly (about 10cm), but it is still too low. I will attach a picture once I clean up my "pit" a bit - pig sty may be the more apropiate term as of now. So, to get to the meat of my problem, I want to build a new extension that is slightly shorter and has a better bend. The main part is building a proper stand for the base so that it is the correct height off the ground. I don't want to fiddle around like last time and hope that everything will turn out good enough - my back will get angry at me again. I want to do this with a bit of planning ahead with a solution that will work from the get-go. I don't think I need to reinvent the wheel, so with a bit of googling have found a document by the airforce that shows a standard configuration for cockpits (see attached files) - it is slightly fishy though, I can't believe that the stick is 25 inches long! So, I would ask kindly for the following information: What is usually the length of the stick (in Huey, A-10, Fw190 etc)? What is the usual stick throw (angle and tangential)? How far off the ground, or rather how far below the seat is the stick gimbal/stand mounted? Seat height off the cockpit floor? Can anyone give me more examples of cockpit layouts (some pit builders should have that info?) Please, help me and my back!

Not a dealbraker, but would be nice if fixed.

Should be no problem, you can have a pretty big number of devices at the same time in this game (although I do not know the exact number). A Warthog HOTAS system is actually two separate controllers already, so you can mix and match as you please. Some systems like the X52 need throttle and stick to be connected togehter to work though (since they are both connected via cable and only the throttle actually connects to PC).

Naja, wie gesagt sind die CH Pedals auch als "Nussknacker" bekannt. Liegen einfach viel zu nah beieinander. Intern sind die CH Pedals und die Saitek übrigens fast identisch. CH sind einfach nur aus besserem Material gemacht (auch wenn es auf den ersten Blick billiger aussieht). Was mich an beiden stört ist aber die geringe Rückstellkraft bei vergleichsweise hoher Haftreibung. Man merkt einfach nicht wenn man geringe Ausschläge macht und bei leichten Korrekturen schiesst man ständig übers Ziel hinaus. Vielleicht gehen sich von den Finanzen her nächstes Jahr ja die Crosswind aus, bis dahin werden die Saitek wohl oder übel noch hinhalten müssen.

Meine Pedale fangen jetzt auch schon immer stärker zu zittern an. Sind jetzt nur ein wenig über einem Jahr alt und ich bin damit weniger als 200 Stunden geflogen. Saitek kann ich jetzt wirklich nicht mehr empfehlen. Ich hoffe, du hast da noch irgendwie Erfolg mit dem Kundendienst, ich werde mich bei meinen Pedalen einfach selbst an den Lötkolben schwingen.

Addendum: I have tried the opposite and set screen powersaving to 1 minute. Even when moving the joystick and pressing (stick)buttons all the time, the screen will go black after one minute. Only pressing keyboard keys will prevent the screen going black. I can confirm now that this issue is because of powersaving options. (I have no idea how other games stay "active" even when using only a controller/gamepad, but DCS1.5 seems to lack this "flag" or whatever it is)

My problem is the following: In multiplayer, after a certain amount of time, the screen suddenly turns black (like with a G-out effect), and my monitor even shows a "no video device connected" message. Sound keeps being played and the game seems to keep running in the background. After pressing a button on the keyboard everything goes back to normal. My theory: DCS1.5 is not recognized as a running application as long as no keyboard key is pressed (I fly purely HOTAS), so windows turns off the monitor as part of energy saving. I have now tried setting my energy saving to 1 hour and will report back if the problem keeps persisting. My specs: OS 64-bit Windows 7/; DirectX11; CPU: Core i5 2500k; RAM: 8 GB; ; Video: Asus Strix GTX970

The critical phase in the 109 and the 190 is the speed at less than 100kh. Using brakes may cause the plane to veer off course and become unsaveable, yet only extreme rudder inputs have any effect. Once the rudder becomes effective at 100+kph, the tail serves as a stabilizer so the plane will try to keep relatively straight by itself and rudder input becomes effective. Once you are at this speed, you are pretty much guaranteed to succeed in getting the bird in the air. With the 190 it is especially tricky since you need to keep the stick pulled back to straigthen the tailwheel, but be careful not to accidentaly hoist the plane into the air and stall out. So you need to find the sweet spot where the rudder becomes effective so you can unlock the tailwheel. With the P51, you have an actuated tail-wheel, so the lack in rudder authority is offset by this. You can keep the plane on the runway simply by doing small rudder inputs, directly translated into tail-wheel movement that are effective immediately.

Ah, the joys of fatherhood ;) FW 190 was me, unfortunately my screen turned black for some seconds and the formation broke apart - well, it's a Beta after all. But those guys were awesome, they flew a really tight and fast 2 ship formation later on going through all sorts of maneuvers. Looking forward to flying with you all again.

There are 2 free flight servers at the moment, I think I was on yours. Was great fun, kinda suprised when a Hawk, an Albatros and a P51 immediately formed up on my wing right after takeoff. I hope you will find some solutions to the problems and host again once you have it sorted out. Is it possible to set up a server message? Citing the rules (no T/O from taxi, no weapons) in chat and upon join should help a bit. Kudos!

This would make a lot of things way simpler, +1

I hear you. To be honest, a trainer only makes sense to me with multi-seat capability. It is a simulator, so you can waste an infinite amount of planes, missiles and fuel in the "real" plane like the F-15 or A-10, so why use the trainer first? For roleplaying? Multi-seat at least sounds really cool for in depth teaching. I would love having someone finally showing me (and then critiquing my efforts) on doing coordinated turns, get the correct glide slope on landing etc. The Albatross at least CAN be used as intended as a trainer. For that reason, the L39 makes sense and has its uses. So as soon as multiseat is implemented I will buy it, but the other trainers don't interest me in the least.

Very good, this will come in handy for a lot of people. I once needed this but couldn't find it, so I reverse engineered it from pictures... Would have killed for something like this. Thanks for uploading for easy access. It is not just shoddy soldering though, but the way the wires are guided through the gimbal. The wires are squeezed through a hole in the center block - when pushing the top cup onto the "egg holder", the wires will get damaged when squeezed through the central slit (this may also tear the wires loose from the soldering points). This is why the wires are squeezed and cut some centimeters down like in your picture. You can avoid this however: Always remove the magnet (the entire white block with the tiny magnet) from the center block of the top cup so the wires can be lead through the center before attaching/detaching the cup. You can then push the wires to the side into the hole and push the magnet back in. Recalibrate afterwards! No pictures unfortunately, but you will understand when you see it.

Nope, kein Elektromotor, nur eine Art Widerstand. Mach das Pedal auf und schau nach ob alle Kabel in Ordnung sind. Wenn es nur ein loses Kabel ist, dann einfach neu anlöten. Ansonsten Poti mit Multimeter durchmessen und langsam drehen, schauen ob es irgendewelche Sprünge oder Aussetzer gibt. Wenn ja, Poti aufmachen und Reinigen. Je nach deinem Geschick leicht machbar oder du kauft einfach gleich Ersatz.

Welche Achsen zittern denn? Wenn es nur eine ist, liegt es wohl am Poti.