Weegie

@CrashAlot (love the name) I can't really think why the Hotkey doesn't work for you, almost certainly a problem with the Elgato Software. First things I'd try, is the HotKey Switch to see if it's the same way, next is to use a keystroke recorder, either a program (for instance Thrustmaster has one with TARGET) or some websites can indicate which keyboard keys are getting pressed and test to see if when pressing the HotKey on the StreamDeck to see if the Keystroke Recoder recognizes it. I'd also go into the Control Panel and Dvice manager to check the Keyboard software and look for problems or conflicts. Is there anything special about the keyboard (fancy gaming type which might have its own software) you're using and are the correct keystrokes, showing in the HotKey command in the StreamDeck software?

I'm Ok with just one, as part of the beauty of @Minsky s sheets is all the relevant data for all the bases are presented in one or two sheets. If I was clever or inventive enough to have comeup with the format, I'd make duplicate sheets. One set with decimals co-ordinates and a second set with minutes and seconds. This way the format relevant to the module could be inserted into the kneeboard....................but that's an ideal case At it's not too difficult to convert either format to the other, I'll settle for whatever Minsky decides and personally suits him

There was a problem with the Syria map and the user sheets not showing up a while back, I don't know if this has been resolved yet and havn't tried the Marianas to check it. Have you tried inserting another another user sheet to see if the fault lies not with the Minsky's sheets but with the Region? Just a thought

Dunno if it's me but I tried the VKB Config to try to get the buttons to send F keys, but it didn't work for me. If I want to use a keyboard command I use Voice Attack then get the relevant Dx button from the stick to trigger it. As I already have Voice Attack running anyway for Vaicom then it's not using up any more resource

You're quite right that's why I stated bikes after the 80s or so. Even motorcycles that were earlier used relatively skinny tyres and although probably still countersteering the rider was usually blissfully ignorant. On these bikes all you needed to do was lean like a bicycle and the motorcycle tipped into the turn. When I got my first bike with fatter tyres, I couldn't get it to turn worth a damm. Then a friend told me about countersteering, at first I thought he was "having me on"

LOL it's OFF TOPIC, but I've never noticed countersteering when riding a push bike (but probably do), perhaps it might be noticable on these dune types with the fattty tyres, but I've never come across it on a mountain bike. As @jonsky7 said on any motorcycle from around the 80s onward with wider tyres, at speed (anything much above walking pace) you need to countersteer, you steer the wrong way. The bars feel stiff at speed so you push the way you want to go and the bike tips in that direction. Once you're at the desired turning radius you stop pushing, it's intuitive after a while, I'm hardly aware of it. On a forum I go to there was huge discussion over countersteering at low speeds, but I don't subscribe to that theory at all and it makes no sense to me, either theoretically or practically when on the bike. I have my rudders set as push in the direction of travel and still can't fly or taxi worth a damm

I do exactly the same even use the same voice command, that's positively spooky

Should be feasible using VKB Config and getting it to send function key commands. Not sure though how you'd tackle all the changes to what the F keys do in the sub menus, as the menus change dynamically. Easier to use Vaicom or at least set up custom commands in Voice Attack for the various modes, I believe Bailey's profiles do this for VA. I think most folks prefer to use the hats on whatever throttle you're using, I certainly do

Hi Chewmann Yeah I tried it both ways and it made no difference, it broken at the moment, the keybinds don't work either Thanks for the suggestion though appreciated

I just used it for the Stang Canopy, which is borked at the moment, the keybinds don't work and using the Script only moves the Canopy back or forward about an 1/8th. So I just repeated the commands and a Streamdeck Pause between each of them, that works really well and stops me having to stab at the button repeatedly. Nice find for sure

Cheers Bailey thanks for going to the trouble, that works an absolute treat I never knew of that function either and it will be really useful for other applications as well

I gave it a try but no joy, with my skills though that's not surprising. It looks like it needs 3 separate actions but I don't know about the emergency part of the brake. Don't think it's directly programmable using Streamdeck unless you use several buttons, which is a just a PIA. Perhaps somebody super clever will come a along, there are some awesome programming folks on here Big Fail from me Sorry

Well that explains it then, before I'm sure it was stick neutral to unlock the tailwheel so now you need to push it forward a little, certain that's changed from previous. So it's not just me then that leaves the stick neutral, it just seems easier to let the tail come up on its own. I'll try both your and @grafspee settings, to try to come up with what works best for me. I'm not having any difficulty getting unstick without drama, just trying to refine my technique a little so I wander less and lift smoother. Thank you all for the replies that explains everything, I wasn't imagning things.

Been a long time since I tried the Mustang On returning to it I don't seem to notice a great deal of difference on stick positioning on take off & the effect it has on directional stabilty I seem to remember that it used to be a lot more stable when you had the stick full back whereas now I'm struggling to notice the difference. I know that holding the stick full back allows the tailwheel to move 6 degrees with rudder movement and central allows it to castor, but when taking off holding the stick back just doesn't make much difference to directional stability on takeoff any me any more. To the point now I just leave the stick central, as moving from full back to central around 80 knots, if anything, unsettles the aircraft a little, so it's just easier to keep it neutral the whole time Is it just me? Typically I'll have the rudder trim set to 5 right, aileron and elevator neutral, pitch full fine and throttle to around 43-45 manifold pressure (I find full throttle more difficult)

I haven't tried it out, but a quick look at the settings shows that it's using 3 seperate IDs and their all different. This makes it difficult (if not impossible) on a single button. If I get time I'll have a try, but I reckon with my poor programming skills I'd need a minimum of 2 buttons to get it to work, guessing one button the rotate the handle then a second to push or pull the handle in and out. Sometimes it's not worth the candle and I end up using a Hotkey to implement commands like this

It's a panel of pushbuttons that has LCD? displays on the buttons and is available in different sizes. It was primarly intended for musicians and streamers, but has many uses @ctytler on here made a fantastic piece of software that compliments it and enables use of access to DCS bios (I think) the result is the actions on the streamdeck are updated on the buttons with what happens in the game. This thread tells you a bit about it https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/230609-new-streamdeck-plugin/ My icons aren't as sophisticated as yours @scoobie they are very neat, like you I also made CBs for the Anton, Dora and Kurfust (the Anton's were a a bit of a marathon with a ridiculous number what was Kurt Tank thinking about?) Wish they'd do the same for the stang.

I know this isn't really specific to the question, but I have all the breakers modelled on a Streamdeck profile, I used the same method as the Axis warbirds, where I have a button to set them and a separate button to disable them (including the guns and the prop pitch). I haven't bothered to actually test them all yet with regards to function, for instance I haven't popped the guns breaker to prove that the inside or outside guns are disabled, as I don't fly a lot of combat. If I disable one though the light on the enabled button goes out and resetting it enables it again and you also see the breaker position in the relevant position in the cockpit. Last night I turned on the UV lights to full on a night flight and it popped a breaker, the lights then didn't work, I reset the breaker and the lights worked again, so it appears they are modelled.

DCS changed the setup in the Saved Games files. When you click on Load Profile if you look at the path at the top, you'll see the program now is looking at the "InputUserProfiles" previously it would go to the Config\Input\Module Name\keyboard directory. What you need to do is copy the .diff.lua file into the InputUserProfiles directory and you should then see it when you try to load it. Personally I'd make a folder inside InputUserProfiles for the module, like FA-18C_Hornet and copy the file to there then navigate there once in the Input section in the game. If running the Open Beta the path is User\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\InputUserProfiles

I'm not a pilot so perhaps I've misunderstood the definition of "flaring" I took flaring to mean the application of back stick, pointing the nose upward to slow the aircraft just prior to touchdown. With the Spit instead I fly level allowing it to sink by itself onto the runway, once the wheels touch, smoothly apply full back stick to get the tail down. If 3 pointing I'd need to "flare" (my deifinition) to achieve the correct attitude for all 3 wheels to contact the runway at the same time Been a while since I've used the module though, must go back and see if my thechnique still works

I don't know what else to say I'm just filling this thread with thank you's but responding to my request is greatly appreciated @Minsky

Thanks @Minsky That's a lot of work right there Love the kneeboards, one thing I would like would be to have is Normandy and in Nevada in tabular form, but as it is these are a fantastic addition The kneeboards and going to the trouble of alerting us Minsky fans is very kind of you Hat's off to you sir

Great @Minsky thank you for your effort and also for the alert, I was wondering when you might complete and updated list Rely a lot on your sheets, make a huge difference to me John

Ahh Ok different thing to what I see then, my blacbox LEDs are rock solid. I think my problem, although manifesting a different result, is a similar phenonem, one of the pins lifting. It's not 100% repeatable but when it does happen it 's usually when at an axes extreme. I think the reason for that is because an extreme angled force is being applied and then one of the pins is being lifted/levered and breaking contact. No problem with the Loctite idea, hope it works. It hasn't occured recently with mine, but when it does I'm planning to tighten it all up and apply Loctite

Are you referring to the LEDs on the stick? I have mine flashing in a similar manner, usually at the limits of movement but sometimes near the center and as you've said it happens when the extension connections at either end loosens off a little. When it happens on my grip both the LEDs flash white, but I've got the LEDs programmed for shift and change of axes limits, that might account for the different colour I get I've yet to find a solution to it, apart from retightnening the cap screw. Haven't tried it yet but I reckon the addtion of some medium strength Locitie might help to prevent the cap screw backing out, just a thought

Again very much appreciated @scoobie I think I know what you mean and the slip indicator can be difficult to keep track of with everything else going on in the spit Good of you to post up again and let us know how things progress. Although the AV-8B has a HUD mounted indicator I wonder if this would be applicable or if use in that module as well. When in VSTOL sideslip can lead to all sorts of havoc, ask me how I know