Inrideo

Hmmm. I haven't used Helios yet, but if it has working airspeed indicators set up you might be able to track down the settings you need by looking at what it calls :)

It's 16 bit resolution, so 32,768. Despite my flight in the recording being wonky (I was flying by moving my head after all) it was a much smoother experience for sure. I decided not to use the gimbal from the old joystick, and instead build a new, sturdy one from some spare parts. This heavy duty PVC pipe will make a nicely weighted frame to work from.

I can't remember which fans have it off-hand, but you can get 3 wire computer fans that support pulse width modulation to control their speed. A good SP-120 should do the trick :) I'm going to be hooking one up to my dart frog enclosure for ventilation on demand.

Sweet! I set up an old 17 inch monitor just for this sort of use. Thanks for your work :)

I've been waiting for some aluminum parts to come from eBay to make a collective I saw over on the 1stCavDiv Huey fansite. In the meantime I've been monkeying around with a cyclic I was making with PVC conduit, the stick from a TM T.Flight HOTAS, and an Arduino Pro Micro. Since I already have an EDTracker built, it popped into my head that it might be possible to build another one and attach it to the bargain DIY cyclic. So as a test I put on the headset with the EDTracker and decided to try and fly the Huey with head movements. My head only controlled the cyclic. I did the collective and rudder with the keyboard (which is really awkward and imprecise compared to analog! How do you keyboard guys do it? :D ) Anyway, I flew terribly but the EDTracker itself performed beautifully as a stick. I'm definitely going to try and mount it on the cyclic this week, throw up a box around them and do a test. I can't promise I'll fly much better. I have almost no practice in. I wanted smoother cyclic control than the regular joystick gave me. But it feels nice and smooth just controlling it with head movements, compared to the inputs on the T.Flight. I'll attach the .trk file for the curious. When I started going into pilot induced oscillations it was because I'd have to turn my head some to fake X axis movement so it was a battle between flying and looking out of the corner of my eye, while keeping a smooth input setting in the EDTracker. I ended up with Yaw and Pitch left at 1.00 and smoothing set to 15 flyingbyheadtracking.trk

Rather than hoping for a tweak in the game input that I don't know about, I think I can alter the code on the Arduino to only register single tap-and-release sequences.

I just build a simple PVC pipe collective, which works great. So I wanted to throw together a simple rudder system until my neodymium magnets arrive. I put two arcade buttons on an angled footrest, and they work well enough, but are much like the Z and X keys when it comes to tapping them. The results are not consistent. Is there a tweak that would make the rudder amount increase by a fixed percentage per tap?

Mine crashes after getting the DCS splash as well. I verified the game cache in Steam, updated video drivers, but don't have a DCS.log file that I can find. Nor is there a Launcher.exe any more. Using the Run.exe or DCS.exe from Windows doesn't change the results either. 8 gig RAM GT 650 Ti Boost 2 GB Win 10 DX 12, though the video card is DX 11. And I don't have a Save folder to purge. Dxdiag attached. DxDiag.txt

Those looking to add some touch components to their cockpit might want to check out the new *official* touch screen from the Raspberry Pi folks. It looks pretty nice, and I was surprised at the price ($60) Makes me wish I had the budget to pick up the hardware right now: http://makezine.com/2015/09/08/now-on-sale-the-official-raspberry-pi-7-touchscreen/ If you add it to your cockpit, post pics! :D Better yet, video

Hawker Hurricane :)

I couldn't find any info specific to that sensor about resistors, and other models from other companies vary in whether they needed one or not. Fiddled around and got a config that reports from -512 to +512. Sample code I found for another sensor works well. Just needed to adjust the pin value. /* * FILE: MM01 * AUTHOR: Rob van den Tillaart; modified Ralph Martin * DATE: 2012 06 10 * ORIGINAL URL: http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/HallEffect * * */ #define NOFIELD 505L // Analog output with no applied field, calibrate this // Uncomment one of the lines below according to device in use A1301 or A1302 // Formula: (Voltage / 1024) / (y)mV // This is used to convert the analog voltage reading to milliGauss // #define TOMILLIGAUSS 1953L // For A1301: 2.5mV = 1Gauss, and 1024 analog steps = 5V, so 1 step = 1953mG // #define TOMILLIGAUSS 3756L // For A1302: 1.3mV = 1Gauss, and 1024 analog steps = 5V, so 1 step = 3756mG #define TOMILLIGAUSS 1048L // Honeywell SS495A1 3.1mV = 1Gauss, and 1024 analog steps = 3.3V, so 1 step = 1031mG void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); } void DoMeasurement() { // measure magnetic field int raw = analogRead(A6); // Range : 0..1024 // Uncomment this to get a raw reading for calibration of no-field point // Serial.print("Raw reading: "); // Serial.println(raw); long compensated = raw - NOFIELD; // adjust relative to no applied field long gauss = compensated * TOMILLIGAUSS / 1000; // adjust scale to Gauss Serial.print(gauss); Serial.print(" Gauss "); if (gauss > 0) Serial.println("(South pole)"); else if(gauss < 0) Serial.println("(North pole)"); else Serial.println(); } void loop() { delay(100); DoMeasurement(); }

How goes the mission? :)

Do I need a specific resistor for the Honeywell SS495A1, or does it have a built in film resistor? I got a couple and made a test circuit on a breadboard but I'm not getting much of a range on readings at all reading the analog state of the pin. (Teensy 3.1)

If you're not in a hurry for the parts I've heard this company is pretty good for arduino bits. Shipping is very slow though. http://www.banggood.com/buy/Arduino.html

Zombie thread resurrection for good link: DXTweak: http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/pedals---dxtweak.html

I think this might have some potential too. https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_joystick.html edit: Ordered the Teensy3-pins (2 bucks extra to save on some soldering, why not). Now to get some hall sensors from Digikey :)

I have some powerful little rare earth magnets that would be just the right size. I cannibalized them from the RC plane I had whose wing snapped off mid roll in only its second flight. THAT was an expensive waste.

Sounds like another fun project after making the EDTracker. Having the body of the joystick is great if I can gut it and improve it :)

Things I have found so far. Removing the center stop from the throttle makes for a much smoother experience, but the calibration still shows a dead spot in the middle of the traversal. Boo. I saw someone else mention it and now it's confirmed. For unknown reasons the lower half of the joystick's XY coordinates jumps all over the place now. Not sure if this happened from removing the spring or if it's why I found the Huey very hard to control recently.

It went exactly like you said it would :) Sure beats removing the cover of something and having springs shoot one way and some important connector go another. Part 2: Taking the center stop out of the throttle :)

I don't have an FFB joystick and find the centering spring in the HOTAS.X to be more of a pain than a help. Has anyone taken apart their stick to remove the spring? I've found references to modding the throttle but nothing on the stick itself.

I figured now that I got my head tracker I'd get back in the game and start learning the Huey. Found an MP server to practice on. Joined... And realized I have no idea how to cold start the Huey. So I was pretty much only able to close the cockpit door :)

Is there anything in this that's not in the current release of the module?

Can we get a thread for DCS2 for modding, away from the chit chat? I previously asked about support for Substances, or other procedural textures, and it got lost in the shuffle. Having a spot for those of us who want to make content away from the general chat would be kind of nice :) Knowing if things like that are available in advance we could have shader packs for wear and damage ready in advance of release. (Note: I had created a thread at the time just for that topic and a mod stuck it in here instead).

Aha! I had to go into the Magnetometer settings and move the device all over to create point cloud data. Everything is looking great now. After you shuffle the device around until you hit 500 points just go back to the main screen and run your gyro bias and it will compensate for the two point clouds and everything will smooth out considerably.