Deezle

Here it is pretty much finished. Works really nicely. The grip is just a tube with an ID slightly bigger than the OD of the main tube. I the machined UHMW bushings for a nice friction fit. The main tube has a slot cut 90º around the circumfrence. There's a small pot mounted inside the main tube. A screw connects the grip to the pot. Not unlike this build here, but a bit cleaner execution (not knocking whoever built this).

Check to make sure your throttle is reaching 100%, if it doesn't, autohover won't work.

This one here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FMOJ1TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And yeah I think the stiction is caused by the o-rings sticking to the shaft, perhaps a bit of silicone lube is just what it needs. I think the range of adjustment is perfect for me, if the maximum stiffness is 10, I'm probably running it in the 3-4 region.

The head is too heavy for the damper to hold it in place, at least on a soft enough damping setting. A counterweight would be all that's needed to make it hold position if you want. It falls pretty slow, I have heard in some real choppers that the collective does fall slowly by itself. Movement wise, this damper does have a touch of stiction to it (after all it was pretty much the cheapest one on amazon) but I've found it to be quite controllable and it may smooth out with use.

I've always hated flying helicopters using a throttle. Yesterday I finally started on a collective build. It's not based on anything in particular, since I fly all the different choppers anyways. The head was machined from a solid block of aluminum. The adapter that connects it to the tube was machined to somewhat mimic the friction ring on a Huey. There is a twist throttle, there's a small pot mounted inside the tube. There's a 2-axis thumbstick and pushbutton in the head, there will also be three more toggle switches when they arrive, my stash of standard size switches are much too large to fit. I'm using a motorcycle steering damper to control the movement, it's also adjustable which is nice. Using a Hall sensor and an Arduino Mega with Megajoy code. It's just taped in place to figure out the proper sensor and magnet placement.

The trim for the Dreamfoil 407 on X-plane works like that, I actually like it.

I had a friend over who's a helo pilot and he told me the the problem with putting real pilots in a simulator is they just wanna screw around :music_whistling:

While I really enjoy the changes to the flight model overall, I have also noticed a lack of roll authority at high bank angles, as if the SAS is cancelling out my input or something.

I don't even notice it, granted my monitors have very thin bezels and I place the side ones behind the center one so I'm only looking at one 1/2" bezel between them. No big deal.

You don't need Surround or SoftTH for multi-monitor support in DCS.

Apparently the the change log for the version I have erroneously included support for the L which it doesn't have, I'll be updating when I get home tonight.

Doesn't work for me. I posted on the beta page and haven't gotten any response.

I have my GUI confined to my center screen, however in the latest open beta update, the F10 map appears only on the left screen, however the click spots still remain on the center screen, so it's completely useless at this point. Attached are two screenshots, one showing the GUI working normally and one showing the F10 map on the left screen.

I did.

Can confirm, sim will not start with the mod installed. Didn't see any obvious file structure changes.

Quite like the FM updates. The gun on the L version is also really fun.

Covered many times. You need to increase the throttle slowly to keep the rotor and turbine synch'd. 2.0 hasn't had any updates to the Gazelle yet, so this is not present in 2.0.

I have hundreds of hours on mine in the last year and a half and all of the buttons, hats, and switches still work fine. I had one wire break at a solder joint but that was an easy fix. IMO it is priced higher than it's quality, but it's not a junk pile.

In the case of my motherboard, it has an optical output that is a separate device from the main soundcard, so an optical converter was all I needed.

In my tests with DCS-bios I had problems with the noisy pots causing a lot of data transmission IIRC, but I was able to find and add a filtering code so nothing was transmitted until I moved the pots. I do not plan on using any switches in Helios, but if it is a problem hopefully I can filter it out. Currently my biggest problem is figuring out how to code the encoders so they output button presses from the Arduino, I'm not having much luck on that front.

I just checked my old gauge profile and it's no longer working either... Turns out my Helios setup was messed up and with all the DCS changes since 1.5 came out I had forgotten that I needed to copy the Export.lua from the main install over to the saved games portion of the install. Works great now. I'm very excited that I'll be able to control the A-10 properly while still leaving these controls mapable to other aircraft in the game!

Yes, I have the Arduino programed as an HID joystick with button and axis inputs, so it acts just like a joystick. I've done that. I've also tried mapping to other axes on other devices with no luck. I do know my SimShaker software does not play nice with Helios and makes it laggy, so I'm no longer using Helios as a display for gauges and such, maybe it's also effecting inputs too. I'll do some more fiddling tonight. This would be a lot easier if ED would just give the A-10C axis inputs to map to.

Hey guys, I'm finally ready to build more panels for my pit. Chief among them is the A-10C Lighting panel. I know I can use DCS-Bios, but I wish to keep the Arduino as an HID so I can easily map it to other aircraft in game. I followed the below video on mapping the pots to the A-10 using Helios, since the A-10 does not have native axis mappings for any of the control panels. However it does not work. Has something changed, the video is quite old. Or am I doing something wrong?

If you drop from too low (under 6000FTish) the bomb will not find the laser in time and fall short. Bunyap has a video on this. I never use autolase, I've had too many problems with it, the laser is set to latch and I manually lase, no need for profiles or any of that nonsense. I'm sure someone will be along shortly to say you're lasing for too long causing the bomb to fall short, I've tried and tried, you cannot lase for too long in DCS, nor will the laser burn out in the A-10C, you can only be too low.