TomOnSteam

To add to this further, I think it would also be handy if switches that the player is highlighting with there cursor, would also be highlighted for the spectator.

The best plane to get started with is the plane you want to fly most - it will be your passion to fly it that will help you learn any parts you find difficult. Also I don't recommend any of the older planes, new planes are much easier to fly - there is a reason they all have stability computers and fly by wire :) Sure there are lot of systems in modern planes, but you don't need to touch any of them if you just want to fly. Flying wise, by far, the F-15C is the easiest, it's a very low work load to just fly. The weapons systems aren't too hard to learn either, but there is a lot of strategy to learn in order to get really good so it's a plane you can pick up easily and it will keep you busy as you learn air to air combat. Some beginners guides here: http://steamcommunity.com/id/tomlobster/myworkshopfiles/?section=guides

Even though you've stopped the chair from rolling, does the rotation/swivel still stop you from getting good accuracy from pedals?

Seems simple enough when you are able to draw it on to the map like that - but do real pilots do all of that in their heads? (while flying in a combat zone!?)

Better still, I bet you could mod your old X-52 into a set of rudder pedals. I'm sure someone here would have the know how. You can also get these http://www.dealsmachine.com/best_162959.html?currency=AUD&gclid=CjwKEAiAvPGxBRCH3YCgpdbCtmYSJABqHRVwNbXhKic7I3wAgb_51jacKpvv7-TusMfwz6k4oj2grxoCklTw_wcB for around $10USD. They aren't analog, but I would let your feet control the rudders.

That's possible yeah - but I guess certain things wouldn't need to be high priority - like flipping switches, if there is a 2 second delay, no big deal. But perhaps things like MFD's would be too much for a network, I'm not sure. Then again, perhaps MFD's don't need to go across the network, it could use the local data, same as if it was your own cockpit. Now that I think about it, it would have to load each cockpit of each different aircraft make/model into memory, so if it is one of those servers with every single module, then that might hog a lot of memory on your PC, but then again I'm sure a lot of DCS PC's are well up to the task.

This is amazing, I assume it is expensive too?

I've played around with using a no spring joystick and for DCS, you turn of center trimming in the options. And there is also a lua file where you set a trim setting to 0 (can't remember what it is, but I found it here on the forums) so that when you use trim it doesn't push the axis forwards by an extra amount. Then you fly as normal - press/release the trim button as you always would. But your joystick stays where you left it, like a real cyclic would. So the advantage is you are able to physically tell how trimmed you are by the deflection. This lets you use the trim button in something like the ka-50 where the autopilots use the trim inputs to program what the helicopter does. I've heard Rich is also working on a base with force trim so that it feels more like the real thing in regards to spring and hydraulic feel. There is pretty in-depth review of the pedals here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=142565&highlight=komodo

here is a great place to start :) http://steamcommunity.com/id/tomlobster/myworkshopfiles/?section=guides&appid=223750

I guess I should have explained it more. The idea came to me as I was trying to talk someone through a start up sequence but the engines would not start. It occurred to me that it that if I was able to see his cockpit view I would be able to watch and make sure he was flipping the right switches etc. So from a training point of view it would be fantastic. Spectating from the cockpit view for dog fights and such would also be a good way to learn from the best.

I've never really understood the gun snakes - do you aim with the end or the beginning?

He's asking if he can beta test the M2000 on the steam version of DCS. I don't know the answer sorry!

Good choice :) I'd personally go with the GAME ONE version, since it is open back - but that really comes down to personal choice of how you like your sound, your gaming environment, and whether you get hot ears or not lol :P EDIT: Once you get these, turn off all of the creative soundblaster z EQ's, crystallizer, scout mode etc - you won't need to do any of that artificial stuff anymore :D

Comanche would be awesome! If they are doing a Horton I would not put it past them. :)

DCS seems to recognise joysticks and similar by their unique hardware ID numbers, so in theory while I haven't tried it, you should be able to plug in two of the same and use them. I'm not really sure you'll get much benefit of using two throttles like that though, especially for the A-10C, I can't remember the last time I took the throttle off max after take off, let alone fiddled with individual throttles.

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=144091 :)

VAC uses your Windows Speech Recognition. If it's having trouble then you'll need to spend about 10+ minutes reading to Windows so that it can get accustomed to your voice/accent. The more you read to it the better it gets. You can access it by typing Windows Speech Recognition into the start menu, or from controll panel (ALL Control Panel items). This VAICOM sounds good, does it just send the F1-F12 key commands into DCS, or does it use some underlying LUA script to send specific commands, regardless of where in the communications menu you are ? e.g. If you are in the ATC sub menu, can you say "Flight Attack My Target", will it know to move up into the main menu and then down into the Flight sub menu? Because if it does that I'm onboard :)

If you are getting a new sound card go with a Xonar based card instead :) Or even still you can get plenty of other sound cards, also known as DAC's (digital to analog converters) - made by audio enthusiast companies that will have clear sound without any fancy (rubbish) software manipulating the sound. Most DACs also have a control wheel if that's what you are interested in. Hahaha yes, it took me about a month of reading about various stuff to workout what on earth all of this new stuff was. What's your price range? I can recommend you something to save you a few headaches :)

As someone that works with audio, my tip for a gaming headset would be to avoid a gaming headset, and even headset's altogether, but instead by the best headPHONES available in your price range, as for the money you'll get a much better sounding set of cans for the same money - just attach a $1 mic, and you've got a headset :) That is if you appreciate natural, realistic, crystal clear sound. If you just want something that has a lot of bass for explosions and don't care about the rest then by all means, you'll be happy with a gaming headset. But it sounds like you have a good sound card, so I'd be making the most of it! I would specifically avoid PC, console and gaming brands such as Logitech, Creative, and Razer, Turtle Beach, etc. The reason being is that these are often made from a cheap low-end headphones tuned for too much bass with the expense of all other tones, with a cheap microphone built in, and if you were to buy these item separately, it would be the exact same product for much cheaper, or a better product for the same money (sure they might have flashing lights and bright neon colours). Instead go for well known audio specific brands. For games and simulators specifically I would recommend most headphones that have an open-back design - this lets in air, so that the headphones can reproduce a natural sound, unlike closed-back designs which sound like you have put your hands over your ears. I will admit that with my first pair of open-back headphones I turned around a few times thinking someone was talking to me from down the hallway - as I could hear band members talking on recordings! The other advantage of an open-back design, is that the stereo or surround field sounds considerably wider. It doesn't sound like two speakers either side of your head. The sound is more a like listening to a surround sound system separated by across a large cinema, and you can pinpoint exactly the direction and distance a sound is coming from - in first person shooters for example, I've been accused of cheating because I can shoot at people so accurately before I can even see them. There can be a couple of disadvantages to an open-back design however - if you turn up the volume really loud, then someone in the same room will be able to hear your headphones, as the sound isn't contained as much inside the headphone. I game in the lounge room and my wife sits about 5m away from me, and has only complained once when I had a guitar solo screeching away loudly, but low pitch sounds like a helicopter tend not to escape. Likewise sound will leak in too, so if you were to use these headphones in a noisy environment like a train, you'd hear the train, instead of being closed into your own little environment. If you can afford it, one of the best headphones are the Philips Fidelio X2 http://www.head-fi.org/products/philips-fidelio-x2. I suggest these as they are comfortable, will literally last a life time being metal in in the key areas, and the sound signature is amazing most importantly. They are not only great for games and simulators but also music and movies. You will be surprised at how many subtle sounds you have never heard before, even though they were always there! If these are too expensive, then there are plenty of options down to almost any price range from brands such as Audio Technica, Sennheiser, or even you might be able to find a pair of fidelo X1's which are still amazing - This is what I'm using now, but the X2's do sound just that little bit better. If you do decide to get a hi-fi pair of headphones, then also make sure you turn off any software that "enhances" the sound or adds surround sound artificially, because it does this as a trade-off for sound clarity.

hahah that was fantastic :)

Compared to an off the shelf warthog or even x-55, sure it's a big cost. But compared other true helicopter simulation products I've seen, these are either the best price or very competitive given that they are handmade, high quality and very accurate with hall-sensors, and buttons from industrial applications. From everything I've seen they are commercial simulator quality controls, but with a standard USB port, no weird adapters and control units, and also without the commercial price tag. Not cheap sure, but worthwhile if you want to enjoy simulation to the max without getting frustrated at the controls.

thanks for the latest vid, really smooth flying :)

As long as it's got a decent heat signature, I'm fine with a civilian aircraft :P

Btw once you have your new base, and have gotten used to the new gear, I would love to see you pick up some cargo in the Huey. I find that is the hardest thing you can do, and I have a feeling the Komodo controls will make it easy as pie :)

Good point - even just something like a couple of hooks to hook the pedals onto the frame. (through the hard mount holes on the bottom of the pedals)