spaceraver

Congratulations to you. Careful what you let out in the forums. The trolls apparently still live here.

So, one could put both of the meters on one display if needed?

I use Rhino 3D for all my cad, at €800 for a full license, no one else can beat that price for the features it has.. And I'm glad that I fly the Shark mostly.. I don't have room for a full pit here..

BrassEm, I'm using a linear setup in all of my planes and the Saitek software. So far it works, I haven't had time to fly a lot since I did the mod. Must admit that it takes some getting used to, where I was able to fly the Shark mostly by touch, I now need to use more stick.. So I need to set a latched button in the Saitek software just for trimming. Ixvanwyk: That looks great, here I can't get my hands on the right size plastic pipe, that's why I opted for brass and copper. I might ask a friend of mine to chuck it in his lathe and skim the outside, it should look really good.

I managed to get a training where the helo is started and the controls work. This is where I am stumped.. But I still don't get why my virtual collective is stuck at full up position when I try to start it from cold. The auto start sequence aborts with it saying I have to lower the collective, but I can't do that. But thanks for the help. Guess I must forgo the cold start practice..

Gladman, tried and still no dice.. :/

I love my X55 stick. But then again, I have made numerous small mods and one large one. I will say that they dropped the ball on making a good ergonomic HOTAS setup. But with these mods I think I have a fighting chance. Things I have done so far: Shortened the Castle switch and the Pow switch, easily done with a handfile and some patience. Added a layer of heatshrink between all hats and the mounting screw on the stick, this made them tighter and feels nice. Made an extension from brass for the stick itself. Just typed up the tutorial.. Removed all the grease from the throttle retainers and shot some Teflon lube everywhere, no sticky throttles anymore. Still need to replace the awful minimouse with a PSP thumbslider..

Hello people. For my next trick I'd like to show off my stick extention I made. The whole thing took me roughly 2 hours to make, using only basic hand tools. Note 1: You will loose the ability to use the stick twist, so unless you have pedals, don't do this mod. Parts needed. 2x 27K4 resistors. (Match them with a multimeter if you have one.) (No picture) :) Heatshrink. Bits of 20 awg wire to extend the second connector. Hardware: 1x brass 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter 1x brass 1/2 inch coupler 1x 1/2 inch brass pipe 60mm long (If you choose a longer pipe you have to extend your wires more) 1x 1/2 inch to 15mm soldering adapter 1x 15mm piece of hard copper tubing. 1x 3mm steel or brass bolt, pin or equivalent, as long as it's round. Note 2: I had to use a copper tee to get the right length, but that was because I was lazy. Tools needed: Soldering iron. Solder for wires. Solder for tubing. Blowtorch or gas torch. (MAPP is good) Flux for copper tube. Sandpaper or 3m pads for cleaning the copper and brass for soldering. 3mm drill and something to spin it. I used a cordless but if you have a pillar drill use it. Calipers. Multimeter Time to take it apart: I am referencing the guide on taking it apart found in the link below, because I am lazy and have already made the mod: https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php?t=137522 First remove the 5 screws on the side of the stick, you don't need to remove the ones on the base. Once, you've separated the two halves, disconnect the top connector, and you can put the half with the hand rest to one side. Now remove the second connector, and remove the two screws holding the yaw unit in place. You can loose the small pin that makes the retaining ring click, fortunately mine stayed in place. So before you lift out the whole Yaw unit, make sure you have something to catch all parts. Cut the 3 wires leading to the yaw pot as close to the pot as you can: And you can actually pull the whole Yaw unit free, there is no friction. (Save or throw it out. Your choice) Remove the bearing while you are at it. That part is set in place with friction. The next part I don't have pictures of as it is already covered in heatshrink. But we are making a simple voltage divider. Or a static pot if you will. 1.Cut some heatshrink for each of the 3 wires and put it on the wires, remember the center one will have the resistors in it too. 2. Remove 5mm of insulation from each of the 3 wires. 3. Take your 2x27K4 and twist them together like this, the ones pictured are not the ones I used, I just took a pair of random resistors for the picture: 4. Tin your resistors and wires. 5. Solder the twisted side of the resistors to the blue wire, with a red and a black wire at either end of the resistor pack. 6. Slide your heatshrink over and heat, add a 4th piece to cover the whole pack and avoid short-circuits. This is what mine looks like when done. There will be some more soldering after this. But for now just turn off the soldering iron. Now on to the brass extension itself. When done it will look like this: 1. Take the brass coupler and thread that tightly onto the other end of the brass pipe, your assembly should look like this now: 2. Time to solder the soldering connector to a piece of copper tube. Cut a piece of tube roughly 55mm long, deburr, clean the end and add flux to both the tube and the solder fitting. Solder and let cool. My scrap pile of tubing was too short so I added a tee in the other end because that was what I had laying around.. 3. Thread the soldering connector into the coupler and turn it so the end of the threaded part aligns with the coupler. We actually need that slop for locking it. 4.Take your calipers, and with the two halves of the stick assembled measure from the bottom lip to the steel crossbar and add 1.5mm to that. Mine was 13mm to the bottom so that made my crossbar 14.5mm to center. 5.Take your brass and copper assembly. Measure the distance from the coupler end and mark your copper tube. 6. Unscrew, drill with a 3mm drill, deburr the hole on both the in and outside. 7. Rethread it back on almost to the bottom of the coupler and set the assembly in the left side of the stick half, close the two halves of the stick together and tighten the coupler. But be gentle here, it,s still only plastic. 8. Take the 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch adapter and thread tightly by hand upside down onto the brass pipe. Notice the small lip made by the adapter 9. Thread the adapter and pipe into the coupler. 10. Mark your adapter and pipe. Use the same distance we used for the copper to coupler end. Take note that the brass pipe and adapter must be drilled the same way as the top adapter piece, that means perpendicular to the trigger, Note where my brass pin is. 11. Unscrew the pipe from the coupler 12. Drill through both brass pieces with a 3mm drill. 13. Disassemble the stick and take out the copper and brass bits. It should lift out after rotating the coupler a bit CCW on the solder adapter 14. Snake your wires up through the brass and copper assembly 15. Assemble the bottom piece and add the 3mm bolt or brass pin. Note that the fat part of the locking pin on the original adapter points forward when assembling. 16. Take out the Pinkie switch. Slowly and carefully bend the Pinkie switch wires so they don't touch the copper tube. 17. Remember the Second connector? We need to splice more wire into that black cable. Cut the connector off with enough wire to spare to extend your wires. 15mm from the connector should be enough. I made mine 30mm longer. And I spliced the wires after extending the stick with brass. 18. Reassemble the stick after you made the extension, tighten the coupler against the bottom of the stick Again: Note that the fat part of the locking pin on the original adapter points forward when assembling. Screw the whole thing onto the base with the spring of your choice. I'm using the yellow, one up from red which was the softest, but that gave me a centering issue, brass weighs a bit. As an added bonus the stick can be now turned to the left, because it lacks the center spring found in the yaw unit and due to friction it stays there. And it feels nice as a center mounted stick. And there you have it.

Platypus. So you are saying that I have to start the helo before I can see the controls move ingame? That's where my problem is, I need to lower the collective before I can start (cheat starting it the first couple of times) :music_whistling: And I haven't added any controllers since, the P51D module and the Mi-8 were bought the same day, and it's only the mi-8 I am having trouble with. So in short, the virtual stick, collective and rudder do not respond to my physical setup at all. :joystick: Buzzles, I tried removing the mi-8mt and mi-8mt_easy folders from my config folder, that just repopulated all my mi-8 controls with default bindings. Just to be certain I have attached zip files of both the sim and easy config versions. You are welcome to check mine against yours or even attach your config, don't know if it would help though. Edit: This is my setup, there are no double binds as far as I can see: And the one for "Game" is FUBAR: Note that there is two Collective in "Game" but I cannot set an axis for either. mi-8mt.zip mi-8mt_easy.zip

Well as the title says, I have no analog controls with the X55 Rhino.. As far as I know and have tested, the MI8 is the only module I have a problem with. BS2: Full control. Tested by jumping back and forth between modules. P51D: Full control. The Mi-8 I can use all my buttons on the Hotas, but none of the axes. I seems that I have all my axes "locked", as they do not respond to any input whatever seat I am sitting in. And it doesn't respond to keyboard commands regarding cyclic or collective. This is very wierd. :music_whistling: I did a DCS Repair and retried it, but still no functions. All other modules work. Attached logs and Dxdiag. Not much point in including a track nor screenshots.. :helpsmilie: DxDiag.txt Logs.zip

So you are building a generic pit this time around? I'm still planning mine, but a X55 set, Dfgt set and the Mfg pedals needs a home. Bought a cheap racing style seat. Still need to make a collective and make everything collapsible.. 2 room apartment and all that jazz.. Very interested in how you will progress..

I also recommend the X55. Though I purchased Mfg pedals too and disabled the twist on the stick.

I actually have a spare ThinkPad keyboard with nipple in it. Making it compatible with the X55 is another matter.. But a Psp joystick would be nice.

Hmm, so an ALPS joystick like this one "should" fit? https://reichelt.de/RKJXP122002/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=446&ARTICLE=73910&artnr=RKJXP122002&SEARCH=alps+stick+controller So far I am not using the nipple for Slew. My worst problem though, is the thumb Pots on the right throttle. I have one set up for Zoom View and there seems to be a bit of electrical jiggle in it. So I have a small shake in the view. I'm going to attempt to replace the pots with some high grade 10K pots from Leo Bodnar.

Really really pleased with mine. A buddy who has a CPL licence dropped by and after playing DCS on my machine for 10 minutes asked where he could get the pedals. :D Now I just need to make my frankenpit for gaming.

I'm rooting for the Vive, because it's backed by Valve, but ultimately I will buy the one that has the best optical view. Unless I cook something up for a VR glove a clickable cockpit with a controller is useless. A Flex sensor should do nicely. Rightclick could be done by a second sensor, then there is the tracking of the pointer..

Serial # 748 Location: Esbjerg, Denmark

I jumped on the bandwagon just on the review and ordered a set, never having owned or used flight pedals. Milan shipped out on the 23. They are currently in Bavaria. So right now i'm like a kid waiting for christmas, new years and a box of kittens. Should be nice to get the shark flying straight. Now there is only one thing missing from my setup.. VR goggles

Now this I like.. Maybe you can work with [FSF]Ian to make 2 "apps" become one? Then this would be the only thing needed as kneeboard..

Oh shoot, the NTTR map looks good. But.. I have a 1970's Edwards AFB air map sitting in a drawer somewhere complete with all specs and so forth.. If it is of use to you guys, I can make a scan of it.

I had the same problem with the throttle, so make sure it has the correct mapping and that your throttle is set as a slider under axis tune..