WelshZeCorgi

The ai in that mission is bugged out. Will not engage radar-equipped enemy air defenses. Makes it impossible to use the rb75, as you cannot perform evasive maneuvers while in the rb75 is in flight.

No, it turns out that those keybinds didn't actually do anything. There are second versions of PAL, VS High and low. I bound those and it works now, it's weird they exist.

Did something change recently? I can't seem to get the plm, high or low vsi and seam to work when I press the assigned buttons. I can hear the 'click' of the buttons being pressed but no diamond or lock happens despite the target being in the correct area. The tcs 'twiches' when the buttons is first pressed but returns to the center and nothing happens. I have tried with the target program on and off, and I have the warthog and vkb joysticks both installed. All other buttons seem to work, so I'm confused why the acm radars don't function like before.

Interesting, I have a friend who has a friend that has a 3D printer. Maybe I'll give this a try and post the results.

My issue with the reverb is that it uses LED instead of OLED. It makes blacks look grey and washes out color, a little bit. This causes lowered contrasts that theoretically makes nights look grey and visual contacts a bit harder to spot.

Makes me wonder why Saitek/Warthog/etc,etc... haven't tried making a mass-produced, affordable collective for helicopter simmers. It can't be that unpopular, can it?

https://foxtrotalpha.jalopnik.com/the-five-maneuvers-that-were-prohibited-in-the-f-14-tom-1757179036 Wondering the validity of this. I tried the flying upside down thing, didn't do anything. Am going to try the aim 9 launch with landing flaps and slats down, see if that damages anything. Am also going to try the roll greater than 360 degree manuver.

Per eye.

I would wait until 2 things occur: 1. Screen door effect = solved. 2. Resolution = Good enough to see cockpit labels and dials & pick out visual contacts without zoom assistance. Yes, you might be waiting a while, but if dropping $3000 is a problem, what will you think if a new VR headset comes out with these 2 problems solved 2-3 years down the line? Then you're going to want to spend another $3000 dollars again, completely undoing the initial $3000 investment. If you just want to see the potential of VR and how it would affect the experience, just buy a cheap, used $100-150 off ebay. That way, you get the preliminary VR experience while also saving up for when the game-changer VR headset comes out. IF you end up enjoying the $100-150 VR headset. If not, either return it or junk it and then you'll know if VR was "worth it" before shelling out 3 grand. If $150 VR doesn't blow you away, how will a $1000 one? Edit: 1 more thing needs to happen, but this one is iffy on whether it will ever be accomplished in the near future: 3. 120 degrees FOV, which is the natural FOV your eyes have.

For those who own collectives as part of their physical peripherals for controlling the lift in helicopters, do you think its worth having one? Is it much easier to control the operations of a chopper using one of these when compared to a throttle from saitek or thrustmaster?

Not Jester level (more like Huey level) but either a pilot you can give orders to while you handle the TV or a commander that can use the basic TV and weapon functions while you fly. The whole process of switching to the TV seat, realizing you don't have a clear shot, then moving to the pilots seat to move the gazelle to a better position, before moving back to the TV seat to check, realize you still don't have a clear shot, moving back to the pilots seat to move again, go back to the TV to see a sniper rocket round from the T-72 you were trying to kill now filling up your TV screen, to you frantically getting back into the pilots seat to turn off auto-hover and move 6 feet to the left to get back behind building cover before being blown out of the sky for being a half-second too late. You're tired of reading that? Try playing it, all I did was describe 15 minutes of combat. I know ambush tactics is a practice in patience, a waiting game, but when the pinnacle moment arrives (i.e. exchanging giant explosive javelins), having to do 2 separate jobs in flip-flopping tandem, rather than in cooperative concert, really sucks the fun out of ambushing in this thing. The chopper may be quick and agile, but firing this thing is slow and clunky, which completely negates its feather-like handling during the whole firing sequence. Not only that, when you fire on a fast moving target and the target is about to disappear behind the cover in front of you, (or some obstacle in the way) you've basically wasted the missile, as moving the chopper will throw off the camera aim and there is no one in the commanders seat to steer and compensate the HOT-3 as you move. Not to mention that the missile will reach the target in moments and switching between seats while manually aiming and flying at the same time is impossible. At least impossible to be accurate. Again, just a simple AI. Doesn't have to do all the complicated stuff Jester does, just needs to move in and out of cover or be able to track and fire on targets to minimize "ass hanging in wind" exposure to the enemy. The problem is that sometimes you do come across a pop-up spot to shoot and scoot, but the time and self coordination it takes to do both stations to pull off a successful pop-up is frustratingly difficult. It may be just a few extra seconds but any gazelle that hesitates a few seconds ends up being cheetah chow or takes a rocket to the face before long. And yes, to AMS999 below, we need an AI to handle the door gunner position. 6 barrels are useless if you have to autohover under enemy fire just to aim and fire the thing.

Whether it does or does not, the Bison radar gets clogged with ground returns when it looks towards the ground, I doubt I'd be able to pick out the contact through all that.

How do you navigate? I get the rsbn and arc, but a lot of the target points are not by any of the stations. Like mission 3, it's in the middle of the mountains.

What are you supposed to do in the campaign's night missions then?

I'm finding that the Campaign for the MIG-21Bision are mostly at night. Wondering if there are any tips for someone on how to dogfight something you can't see? (except by radar.) One thing I notice that I need help with is when I pick up a contact on the scope and see it on the left or right of my heading. When I turn to get the contact in the proper center to lock it up, it just disappears from the scope all together then its just flailing around to find it again. Is there a rate of turn that I need to stay under to have the radar properly collect radar returns that it sends out?

@bn800 Are you the one providing the repair service? Where do you get your spare parts? I found cracks in the pressure plate, the thing holding up the main spring from the bottom. Is that caused by yaw forces on the joystick?

I would like to happily report that I had this problem and just managed to twist the extension off. I did it through a combination of heat, hammering and using a walnut cracker to clamp down on the plastic neck base, using a thick (and I mean super thick, like dishwashing gloves thick) rubber glove to both supply grip and protection to the neck of the plastic. This took HOURS, this wasn't fast as popping off a cork. I had to cycle through these elements like so: I screwed off the wide baseplate when I did this, so I suggest you do it too, BUT IF YOU DO, KNOW THAT THE ELECTRONICS AT THE BOTTOM ARE EXPOSED, disconnect from computer and use precautions to not shock the sensitive circuitry inside. 1. Heat with a blow dryer, get it nice and hot, so hot that you can't touch the metal extension past a few seconds (be sure that you are applying the heat a little above where the threads on the extension should be, heating the plastic neck will weaken it, making your chance of breaking it high) 2. Using a towel to protect your hand from the heat, hold up the extension and warthog base in the air (essentially dangling the base as you hold onto the extension) and with your other hand, tap all around the circumference of the extension with a small hammer, where the threads are, and keep doing this as it cools, tap as hard as you can without actually causing the stick to deflect from the impact. When it cools down to a warm temp (think of a warm mug of coffee that's warm, but cool enough to chug without scalding your mouth) move to step 3. 3. Wrap the glove around the plastic neck, clamp the nutcracker over the rubber glove, use the kind of nutcracker that hinges on a point at the tip of the nutcracker, sort of like a scissors if the blades past the hinge were cut off. Grip it tight enough that it provides resistance when you go to twist off the extension but not so tight THAT IT DOESN'T ROTATE IN THE NUTCRACKER you actually do want the base to rotate a little bit, the rubber glove should protect the neck from the nutcracker, if the glove tears, find a thicker glove but only do this for maybe a dozen attempts, any more and you risk tearing through the rubber glove and gouging at the plastic neck. Repeat step 1-3 until it eventually pops off. I know it sounds ridiculous and I'm not 100% sure it will work for you as I've only had this happened once. But mine was so stuck on that trying to twist it off caused the ball inside to twist and warp a little, so it must have been pretty stuck. Again, this took almost 2 hours of just doing these 3 things over and over again and each cycle lasts about 15-20 minutes, but the science is there, heat to expand the material, hammer the hot metal as it cools (the 'as it cools' part is important) to cause the threads to loosen as the plastic and metal contracts at different rates, and the nutcracker to actually try to create the leverage needed while preventing a break at the ball. I hope it works if you're reading this, let me know if it turns out it works for you so that others can know this wasn't just some crazy fluke. Remember, slow and steady wins the race. You could just crank it and yes that would probably get the extension off, but you'd also completely wreck the plastic insides that weren't designed to take any sort of twisting forces. So if you're wondering why I did all that, it's to ensure the minimization of any chance of breaking a hundred dollars worth of peripheral controls.

I can confirm, in the RIO seat, you seem to control the RIO's head in the RIO's rearview mirror and the Pilot's head in the Pilot's rearview mirror at the same time. This was multiplayer in multicrew.

I successfully forced the F4 to leave. I did this by damaging him with the 23mm but not destroying him. I followed him to the nearby airbase and watched the F4 land, but there was no text box or any sort of confirmation that I did the right thing the way the mission creator wanted me to. A bit confused, was I successful or did I do it the wrong way?

The dogfight mission in instant action on caucuses, in the briefing, it says to try to force the F4 to leave the fight, but refuses to say how. Has anyone managed to do this? Force the F4 to leave the fight? I wonder if the script broke from a bug or something because all the things I think should force the f4 to leave doesn't make it leave. (like staying on his tail or using the training camera to record a training kill.

How do you STT lock a pd search contact on the DDD? I tried but can't figure it out.

Right, I forgot about the PD. The problem is I mostly played in Single player, only until last Sunday did I play RIO in multicrew and see how far it was capable of looking, though it doesn't put track files on the TID in this mode. I got the impression of radar range from the TID, and Jester doesn't report any contacts on the DDD in PD (does Jester even use PD search?), so I thought I wasn't finding anything beyond 120 miles.

I've only done ACLS in foggy, but otherwise calm seas. That being said, given how good the system is in calm weather, I wonder why the Navy didn't just default to ACLS landings. It gets me on the deck much better and more reliably than when I do it manually.

What is the furthest contact you managed to pick up on the AWG-9? It says 195-200 miles away, depending on the size and profile of the aircraft, but I think I've only managed to pick up an IL-76 about 120 miles away, with fighters usually around 80 or less.

The ACLS seems to always catch the 3 wire every time, without fail. Never ran into any connection problems with the ship or autothrottle turning off or any hiccups in the system in general. Any R/L Tomcat out there feel the ACLS is well modeled, or perhaps a bit too perfect?