Braeden108

Excellent thank you guys! This made me completely remember that the M2000 used to auto rotate, will this enable this feature?

Pardon my French, I'm positive I spelled that wrong. I get that warning on take off, I know it means the aircraft is not set up for take off. The thing I'm missing is take off trim. Anyone know how to set it? Thanks

This would be cake with MMJOY http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3899105/mmjoy-mmjoy2-build-your-own-usb-controller You load the software onto your promicro and define what each axis is and boom, working collective. Its been some time since I worked with MMJOY but my stick uses it and its been running strong for 2 years, no issues.

Actually if you type in NATOPS and the name of most Navy aircraft you can find the flight manuals. Also pocket checklists.

So the Navy is awesome in that they released their full manual for their Harrier. https://info.publicintelligence.net/AV-8B-000.pdf Just making sure everyone's aware of this because its awesome. 700+ pages of official Harrier goodness! (If anyone knows of any documentation like this for other ED modules post them here or PM me)

If you've ever used an isometric joystick, what did you think of it?

Sorry if this has already been posted, but its flipping amazing!

Interesting points, this is one of the reasons I want WWI aircraft for DCS. I think you're underestimating the Dr.1's maneuverability and overestimating the F-22's radar. Regardless you guys should try fighting a WWII aircraft in a jet fighter, and vice versa. Fighting a FW190 in an M2000 blew my mind. Those Fukke-Wolf's can climb.

It sounds like an easy fight. The F-22 would win hands down, right? But I was thinking about it. The WWI bird doesn't have a big radar signature and its going slow, so the F-22's radar missiles would be useless. The engine probably doesn't emit enough heat for a heater to pick it up. So all the F-22's fancy weapons are rendered useless. Now it's a gun fight. A WWI aircraft can out turn an F-22 all day long. So I think the WWI bird would have a better chance than you'd first think. What are your thoughts?

So I've been using freetrack with my wiimote and toshiba bluetooth stack for a long time. However I can no longer get access to the toshiba bluetooth stack. I need to connect the wiimote to freetrack. Any ideas? Alternatives? I've exhausted everything I can think of.

Excellent work looks amazing!

This should probably go in the chit-chat section but I figure it's better here. How did the A-10C module start? Did ED just want to make it or did they have some kind of contract? I just feel like I heard somewhere that they had a simulation contract.

A hall sensor conversion is possible. Its not super tricky but it requires some mechanical modifications. Though I've seen guys pull that off with a pen and glue. I also found a nice list of replacement parts for the cougar. http://cougar.flyfoxy.com/warranty_parts.php Unfortunately it's all manufacturer part numbers. But it does show me that all the parts are somewhat standard. The microstick is what I was thinking would be the hardest to find, but all it is is a thumbstick like the ones in any old Xbox controller. I modded one of them into my own flight stick. The last thing is cost. The parts are cheap enough but the time someone would have to spend to do it would be somewhat costly to make it worth it to them. Personally I just got done with a project for a guy. It took me 5 months, and I made $200 hahaha. But I made a friend in the process so it's all good. I'd estimate this project could be done in a month of casual work. If you have any friends who are even average at soldering it would be an easy job for them. Also in my opinion it's worth it because I think the Cougar is one of the best sticks out there. So it's worth saving. Anyhow that's my 2 cents on the matter.

Where do you live? I'd be willing but I feel like there are people out there more qualified than I. Though I build my own joysticks.

I just wanted to show the reason I've been asking a lot of questions for the past 5 months. These guys. They don't look as good as I'd like but they're not for me. And the guy who wanted them, wanted them for VR. I started them in December and they've been a near permanent feature of my desk since then. But they're now finished and working. The last picture is of an incomplete connection that held the project up for a week while I was trying to find it.

Perhaps I can make the button an axis? Then assign a button to be pressed when the axis is full? This is the last issue in a 5 month project. I'd like a quick fix. Even if it's dirty. If it works, you wont care when you're in the air.

I have these: EVE-VCGJL016B I have a 2x6 matrix. I added another row to make a 2x7 matrix. But I get the ghosting. There are diodes on the signal pins of all the encoder but not any of the grounds. And I have two diodes on the push button. One on both sides (more by accident than anything else)

That's not an option. Though I did try. I bought an encoded that shares a common ground with its pushbutton. This causes ghosting within the matrix. (I have divides installed)

Hello chaps! Is it possible with MMJoy to have a button that's not part of a matrix with MMJoy? There is a matrix already on the board but I'd like a button separate from that matrix for electrical reasons. I have plenty of ports left on my arduino.

Yeah, you all are right. I got a little screwed with my encoder. The common ground between the switch and encoder is a right pain in the ass. (I get this one time to use colorful language based on how much of a headache its giving me.)

Hall effect sensors aren't wired Ground-Analog Voltage(output)-Voltage like a potentiometer. They're wired Ground-Voltage-Analog voltage(output) I thought they were set up like a pot, and I fried my shiny new hall effect sensors.

So I recently had an issue with a push button encoder, and I figured out the issue. I'm just passing this information along to everyone so they can avoid this issue if they should come across it. So a push button encoder has 5 pins. 2 for the push button 3 for the encoder. You would think they don't need each other to function. This isn't true. One of the pins on the push button side is the common for the whole encoder. The middle pin of the encoder side is just a duplicate of signal pin. Of course this may not be the case for your encoder, so check your datasheets. But be warned that is a thing. Anyone else have any advice about weird parts? Could be cool to make an advice thread.

Hello Stranger, thanks for stopping by Braeden's issue shop. Can I interest you in my newest aquisition? It would seem that when I try to name a controller in MMJoy, by typing in the USB name box, that it does not change the name that shows up in game nor in the windows game controller window. Any tips?

Thanks Brewnix, that set up you have me was the ticket. Nice to see all of the encoders working at long last.

Those shift registers look mighty tempting.