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Braeden108

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Everything posted by Braeden108

  1. Haha I've asked this same exact question a while back. I was really confused about the panels being metal AND backlit. Well it turns out the very top of the panel isn't metal. I haven't been able to nail down if it's glass or plastic, but the way the simpit guys do it is translucent white plastic that's painted and laser engraved. I personally think it looks amazing. http://hispapanels.com/tienda/en/80-a-10-thunderbolt-ii I have no doubt that someone around here can give you more detailed info.
  2. I'm only a beginner when it comes to electronics, but I'm pretty sure how the FFB generates the force. They probably generate a 5 volt analog signal which would go to the gate of a transistor. Changes from 0-5 volts on the gate would produce proportional changes on the drain (or source I get them confused.) So my thought is, you can build a breakout board with my guess is 4 transistors on it. You can then use any rating of transistor you want and use as big of a power supply as you'd like. And there are probably 4 because, I'm thinking there are 2 for the forwards and backwards, and then 2 motors, 4 transistors. If were you I'd look up the number on the four components near where the motor wires come in. I'm looking at a low res picture of the board, but I can see where the traces go and there's some hefty traces going to those components. Then you can determine what those are and perhaps figure out their ratings, or use it to find some bigger ones to use.
  3. Have you looked into local laser engraving shops? I went to one to buy material (not engrave, I engrave at my university for $5 a job) but I asked them about how much something costs and the price was actually pretty reasonable,I want to say $12? Though that adds up really fast if you're doing a pit. But I'm just throwing it out there.
  4. Damn these look great, thanks for sharing
  5. I saw one for cheap online, I'm wondering if they're any good. I don't really mind if the stick has bad accuracy, I'm going to use it as a grip on my arduino powered stick. What I really care about is are the buttons reliable and does it have a solid build quality.
  6. LynxDK, I'm sorry I always forget your username. BUt I was hoping you'd post your software is what I was hoping to find. I'll probably just wire up this project with on-on switches but my other projects will have your code on them hopefully. And I hope you'll have a donate section for that code.
  7. Make a spring? Sounds pricey, if its not let me know. I've always wondered about custom work like that.
  8. This thread got awesome in a hurry. And as for scale models I suppose you could visit the local hobby shop.
  9. I don't know much about the springs in the Warthog., but I know you can get springs from McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=15r55m7 McMaster looks like a bit of a cluster at first, but all you need to do is get all the pieces of your old spring together and try to measure how long it is. Which is the first column on the page, Then you want to measure the inner diameter and try to match it up. Then see if you can maximize the spring rate, this will give you a heavier trigger which is what you want.
  10. I saw those nice looking ornaments on the main site, and thought you know it'd be cool if ED sold some things like those ornaments, t-shirts, and the like. I would really like some window decals of the A-10, M2000, Ka-50. I feel like that would be fun.
  11. I come on this forum to see cool projects like this.
  12. Oh man that's beautiful
  13. I'm planning on ordering On-On switches (like I said the E-switch 100 series doesn't have on-off)but it would save me a lot of wiring and matrixing to have one pair of wires going to the switches. The hardware way to do it would be to split a buttons output into switch one and switch one not using an inverter. That way when switch one is on switch one not will be off. Then when switch one is off switch one not will be on. If I were building 1000 joysticks and was making a PCB that's how I would do it. But I'm not (unless like 1000 of you want one?) I was merely hoping that there was an easy software way. I hear, I always forget his name, he makes the warthog boxes and other sim goodies. He has software that will do it, but it might be proprietary.
  14. Well actually the switch series I'm targeting doesn't have an On-Off version. But hell I could still wire an on-on like an On-Off
  15. I feel like this is a common question round here. What's the best way to simulate an On-On switch with an On-Off? I'd prefer a way to do this with MMJoy, so the arduino is programmed with it. That would make the whole thing plug and play.
  16. Here's a nice encoded with pushbutton https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-bi/EN11-HSM1AF15/987-1188-ND/2408766 You might not need the push button though
  17. This is beyond cool
  18. I'd go for a leo bodnar board. Gives you plenty of buttons and easy axies. An arduino and mmjoy is also an option. But it takes a little more work. You need 100k ohm potentiometers. They should be abundant at. Your local electronics store. If you need help sourcing parts from digikey I'd be happy to help. They rotate 270 degrees usually. But what exactly are you doing with the axis. There might be something that fits your needs better than a pot.
  19. I'm glad to hear it's because you want to do another and not because you need a new liver or something. Oh wait UK healthcare XD
  20. Thank you sir, That's in the price range I was expecting, just shy of $1000 each
  21. Well I have an idea of how to do it. Fill your chopper with: (NOTE: Only works with non-American troops. The American troops were told by the stranger danger people to not get into the vehicles of strange men offering candy.)
  22. Hey guys, I'm sitting here looking at encoders and potentiometers online. And I'm wondering. how is the position of the flight stick determined in a real aircraft. I know there are direct linkages to the control surfaces in aircraft (are there any aircraft that don't have a direct mechanical connection?) But I also know that the flight computer needs to know the position of the stick. So how do they do that, $0.30 joystick pots :megalol: Optical encoders or really really nice pots? I put this in input output because maybe someday I'll use that method to control my sim aircraft.
  23. Thanks for the info, I will definitely keep the above in mind when testing. One of those things that's great to know before hand because I doubt I'd know to look that kind of thing up. So I was thinking going with ~10 pulses per rev. I see you have 20, do you find it a little tricky to be precise with them or do you find yourself really cranking on them trying to get it dialed in?
  24. Ahhhh of course a base 10 radix should have a 10 pulse encoder. Thanks FragBum (I thought your name was FragBurn, FragBum is hilarious.)
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