Braeden108

I'll give that wiring set up a try.

Thank you so much man. I'll probably have to wire in another arduino. Hopefully I can get away with,using an arduino micro I have 6 encoders. Which is 12 "switches." The micro has 25 pins for button matrixing. I don't actually know what BC and BR means. So i can wire all of the grounds together and every pin to a port. That'll give me 13 lines to the arduino which the arduino can support? Is that the best way do you think? Its a shame I can't get this to work on the remaining pins of the arduino I'm already using. I have 8 pins I can matrix with left on in. I might try to wire 7 of the encoder pins to the existing matrix. Then I can wire the remaining 5 pins to the 8 free pins and the center pin (ground?) to another remaining pin.

I use the "snipping tool" search for it on your machine, it changed my life. I have the outer pins of my encoders tied to each other. Then the center pin goes to the adjacent rows. Is that the issue? Also of note is I have a 4 x 7 button matrix (excluding encoders) And I'm using a promicro. And I put the Joysnick button into the encoder field yes? Not the H/W button?

I updated, reprogrammed and got the same results. Exactly the same. I attached my exact set up. Assume I know nothing I'll take any help right now. I'm at a dead end.I'm debating wiring this all to another arduino to see what gives.

I am using the 2015 version Yay! I love it when I find a problem. I'll update and report back.

I'm really having trouble getting these encoders to work with MMJoy and an arduino. I have one encoder working flawlessly, it does button one for a clockwise rotation and button 2 for counter clockwise. However the other encoders will activate both buttons when they rotate (or nothing at all) I also have one that is just on. Any ideas?

I am willing to work on that. I don't have a warthog but if I could get detailed teardown pictures we could definitely get the ball rolling here. I dropped a PS3 thumb stick into my T-flight HOTAS it was a very invasive process but it works semi well. I'm about to experiment with a pressure sensitive joystick however. I think this will work better. I've also been thinking about making custom backlit panels to replace the ones on the warthog. Or replace the switches on there with more accurate ones (though they're $30 a switch so you be the judge.)

Thanks guys! I think the delay setting is where I was going wrong.

I forgot to mention the arduino. Yes I do. And the controller works for simple buttons and switches. I'd like these encoders to tune the radio and run the ABRIS int he Ka-50 or set the course. That kinda stuff.

Awesome, thanks Sokol

So I'm trying to get an encoder going in DCS using MMJOY I bought these encoders: EN11-HNM1AF15 They're incremental so they should do fine AFAIK. The encoders work electrically, but MMjoy and DCS aren't understanding what they are. I have the button that the encoders are wired to set under the encoders tab in MMjoy, Then in the button sets area I have those same buttons assigned to H/W buttons. I put a 10 ms timer on each button. Mode is set to "-------" same for shift, timer off is set to no. But it doesn't seem to work. When I go to assign them in DCS I assign the encoder buttons to say heading bug increase decrease then I spin the kno. No dice. Any ideas where I went wrong?

So I'm in the first steps of setting up the software for a new controller box I've built. I already have the matrix built and the buttons wired now I'm programming it using MMJOY. I've told MMJoy that button 41 from the matrix will be button 41 in the output as well as 1, 2, & 3. Thats all. I'll program the rest in time. However when I pull up windows game controller settings it only list the buttons up to button 32. Which is a little concerning. Will windows support a 41 input controller? Also of note the last 12 inputs are actually encoders. Hopefully I made sense in this post haha

I actually just got my hands on the track point out of an old dell laptop. It has four wires coming out, haven't had a chance to see what gives but we'll see. Anyone familiar with their workings by chance?

The only thing that can replace the A-10C is a tactical nuke or the wrath of God himself. And they'd still have a hard time.

Krap... Err uhhh... I did pthat phor klick bait purposes yeah.

Really? Did you manually install drivers, Ive never done that.

I understand it now! So indicated airspeed is read directly from the pitot tube, which is a pressure gauge. So the more pressure it reads the higher indicated speed you'll get. So slow moving air at low altitude which is denser will produce as much pressure as fast moving air at high altitude which is less dense. Therefore the IAS gauge will read the same speed in these two cases True airspeed measures the speed of air moving over the aircraft So if air is moving over the aircraft at 300 knots the gauge will read 300 knots. Regardless of altitude and therefore air pressure. Theoretically if there's a single gas molecule moving at 1000 knots across the aircraft the gauge will read 1000 knots (not really but)

Awesome, I'll look into this. And I agree IAS isn't useless. I personally think its the most useful, because knowing your airspeed is mostly used for knowing how much lift you have so you can predict how the aircraft will behave. So then what's the Mach gauge? Is that just a gauge who sources data from the pitot and runs on a different scale?

So my friend is looking to buy a new HOTAS and I was talking to him about resolution. I was telling him that 'Ohhh most sticks output 1024 but they can't actually output every bit of 1024 so its more like 512 resolution or worse because it can't step up by one." And I was telling him how much I'd like a 14 bit stick because it can output a 16000 but resolution. But I'd never heard of one. Then I find out the Thrustmaster T16000 can. So is this a bunch of marketing crap? Or can Thurstmaster's "HEART" tech actually do it? More importantly can it do it in an increment of one. That is go from 1,2,3,4,5,6, not 1,20,50,70,90,140 when you're looking at the raw data output.

So I know the indicated airspeed gauge is useless for determining your ground speed when you're at altitude. So I'm wondering what gauge I can use to know how fast I'm passing over the ground?

Keep up the good work!

Warhog, do you paint thick layers of white, then one layer of black so that the black doesn't show up in the scratches when you laser engrave?

Here's a challenge for you: Break every other light up there without breaking either one next to it. If you do it right you'll have light, no light, light, no light and so on.

I'm loving this video so much right now, how have I not seen it before?