epolta

Installed 1.3.3.3 with the quick update and seems to be working fine! Even imported a mission file from a campaign mission! Appreciate the quick fix! I'll play a bit more with it later this afternoon, but so far so good!

BIGNEWY. Track file of issue during Nevada instant action dogfight. No sound happened about last 2 minutes of track. uploaded here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rfS6muY5B0xD37CMXuGJy1ZqVavgP1dm

I used to lose mine a lot, but my lighting isn't optimal. Lately by looking straight up a the ceiling I've been regaining tracking instantly. Might be worth a try. I used to get frustrated and shake my head back and forth (sometimes gaining tracking, and sometimes just making me dizzy - LOL), but lately looking straight up has been working perfect! Sure miss the tracking on my Rift S, but there's no way I could go back. The Reverb resolution is king!

You can remove the factory facial interface and replace it with the VR cover for Oculus Quest (it will stick to the factory velcro lining) Alternatively you could remove the factory facial interface and replace with your own piece of foam. I removed the foam from an old Oculus Rift S facial interface with a sharp knife and have that attached to the factory velcro on the Reverb. This if not quite as comfortable, but brings the lenses closer to my eyes both improving the perceived FOV and making the sweetspot larger.

Yes. Go into WMR before you start Steam VR/DCS and make sure you have 6 degrees of freedom (i.e. you can move forward and back in the cliff house) BEFORE entering DCS. If you have no 6 DOF in WMR cliff house you need to restart it and go through the calibration routine whereby it asks you to look left and right and then at the floor. This should restore your proper 6 DOF tracking.

IF anyone else experiences this, the "fix" for me was to go into the special menu for UH1 and select the trim option (in the drop down) to DEFAULT. For whatever reason I had another option selected and this seemed to cause the controls to lock up eventually with the trimmer reset function no longer working. I flew about an hour yesterday after enabling "DEFAULT" and no longer experienced the issue.

The exact issue persists for me. I've unchecked "force feedback" and have ensured trimmer reset is mapped in game. It registers in the bindings, but when the bug presents itself the reset trimmer does nothing and the cyclic stick is locked in place. I've tried mapping a few of the autopilot commands which occasionally will allow me to reset the trimmer, but it's intermittent. I've done a repair etc. I can't believe I'm the only one with this issue? It doesn't happen immediately - usually takes several minutes of flying with multiple force trim inputs before the stick locks up.

Not risky or difficult. The facial interface is made to remove so it can be cleaned/replaced. The only tricky part is the velcro tends to want to peel off the HMD when you try to remove it, so just go slow, and press the velcro back down again. I may end up removing HP's velcro and replacing it with my own strips eventually.

I'm assuming we need another tablet to support both knees? thanks!

I removed the factory facial interface and added my own foam piece attached to the factory velcro along the edge of the headset. Comfort isn't quite as nice and I had to loosen the straps a bit, but now my eyes are much closer to the display. This gives me better perceived FOV (I can check six and see more without requiring the Linda Blair, and it gives me a noticeably better (bigger) sweetspot.

AMVI Awesome tips thanks! Im using an HP reverb with Steam VR. I'll try moving it a bit further away. Also, one other question. I believe my DCS hooks are installed properly, but the application doesn't seem to be auto importing the mission custom kneeboard files. Is there another trick for making this work or something I can check to confirm it's configured properly? thanks again!:thumbup:

Are there any adjustments for ipd/conversion? I feel a bit cross eyed when looking down at knee board even though the rest of the cockpit and world is perfectly fine? Also, is there an adjustment to help keep it zoomed better? I have to really focus on not moving my head or it zooms back out again. Thanks for developing this!

Adding myself to the list of people who are experiencing this problem. Been flying Reflected's Hunters over the Yalu and have lost sound (as described in this thread) twice on mission 2. Radio chatter and external sounds still active, but in cockpit engine sound gone. I think it may have to do with G-effects, but not conclusive. I can reproduce issue in Nevada Dogfight Instant action consistently, after a few turns, which again leads me to believe it's G-Effect related?

I've deliberately set mine to 90Hz, because the 60 Hz flickers too much for me. However, on most days when I boot my machine and get everything up and running (WMR, SteamVR, DCS) The first time I load into DCS the HMD is at 60 HZ (60 FPS in DCS main menu screen). I then have to go into experience settings, select and deselect 90 Hz again, restart everything, reboot machine, and then it's back to 90 Hz. It's a royal pain in the ass, but eventually works at 90. Anyone else experiencing anything like this, and if so, have a solution? Overall am loving the Reverb, but it's definitely more of a pain to get setup then Rift S was.

My measured IPD by optometrist is 68.5. I have it set to 67 in WMR settings (because that's as high as it goes with the slider) and set it to 68 in DCS - which is really just for world scale. I do notice a bit of eyestrain, but it almost feels like it's because the visuals are SO good - like looking at high resolution monitor up close or something? The sweetspot for me (area where headset can sit on face with things still in focus) seems pretty big to me, but it can be difficult to see switch names when looking down and behind. Sometimes I have to physically move the headset down on my face when looking down and behind me so everything is in focus.The other thing I experimented with was removing facial interface foam which allows the headset to sit closer to your face, drastically improving the field of view. I did a similar mod with my Rift S and I think I will do it for reverb as well, by adding some craft foam or weather stripping along the forehead.

Was debating purchasing the Reverb to replace my Rift S. I've tried OG Rift, Odyssey, Odyssey Plus, and Vive Pro. I've only used the Reverb for about 3 hours last night, and other than a clunky setup routine, all of the issues I've had with WMR have been addressed, and the three hour session I had last night with the Reverb was incredible. Long term reliability remains to be tested, but overall I'm HIGHLY impressed with both performance, comfort and resolution of Reverb. If it continues to work glitch free, I will definitely be selling my Rift S. I felt like i was looking at monitor last night and performance of reprojection seems even better than Rift S. I'm running 8700 at 5.1 Ghz, with 2080Ti so I'd hoped for a good performance and was not disappointed (pegged at 45 with no ghosting in cockpit, and immediately jumps to 90 when switching to external view). I'll try IL-2 tonight, but super excited about this headset. Sweet spot seems huge to me and overall comfort is really good. Cable sucks, but I don't notice it while flying. FOV seems on par with Rift S, maybe a little less FOV in the vertical? If you're on the fence, I'd say pull the trigger as this is NOTICEABLY better than Rift S IMHO.

Been keeping an eye on this thread for a while as I've been debating purchasing the Reverb to replace my Rift S. I've tried OG Rift, Odyssey, Odyssey Plus, and Vive Pro. I've only used the Reverb for about 3 hours last night, and other than a clunky setup routine, all of the issues I've had with WMR have been addressed, and the three hour session I had last night with the Reverb was incredible. Long term reliability remains to be tested, but overall I'm HIGHLY impressed with both performance, comfort and resolution of Reverb. If it continues to work glitch free, I will definitely be selling my Rift S. I felt like i was looking at monitor last night and performance of reprojection seems even better than Rift S. I'm running 8700 at 5.1 Ghz, with 2080Ti so I'd hoped for a good performance and was not disappointed (pegged at 45 with no ghosting in cockpit, and immediately jumps to 90 when switching to external view). I'll try IL-2 tonight, but super excited about this headset. Sweet spot seems huge to me and overall comfort is really good. Cable sucks, but I don't notice it while flying. FOV seems on par with Rift S, maybe a little less FOV in the vertical? If you're on the fence, I'd say pull the trigger as this is NOTICEABLY better than Rift S IMHO.

Exact same issue here! I've reinstalled, updated LUA code, reimported the profile and tried just about everything else. If you get it figured out let me know! thanks

Currently experiencing this exact issue on latest OB update. Anyone else still experiencing this? This thread is pretty old. Use trimmer and lose control with no stick movement detected. Trimmer reset command, although properly mapped and detected in game settings menu does not release trim and I basically go out of control and crash.

Boris, per my PM count me in! I'm surprised you haven't had any other interested. thanks for offering to do this! Erik

Original T-50 CM, not the newest CM-2. Fully supported by Virpil just doesn't have as many buttons as the newer CM2. Works fine with either Virpil gimbals or Thrustmaster Warthog gimbal. Will include original Virpil packaging I've owned the T-50CM, T-50CM Black edition, and now have upgraded to the CM-2, so this one is ready for a new home. $125 and you pay shipping. CONUS (Continental United States) Only and must receive funds via paypal. If you are nearby Tucson, AZ, we can arrange FTF sale to save shipping costs. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HAVC8JEeuyNmQdgX7

Have also experienced this. When starting Right engine no vibration felt. When start left engine you can feel vibration, but it appears to be coming from the right side, so it's opposite of what it should be, and out of sequence. Running latest SSA beta.

Missing for me routinely. Also JDAM bug appears to be back.... Sigh. Both JDAM and Maverick routinely missing for me now.

The Windows 10 Re-activation Trick It’s pretty simple: If necessary, change your Win 10 account to a Microsoft Account instead of a Local Account Upgrade, and tell Win 10 to re-activate Change your Win 10 account back to a Local Account if you want DONE! Let’s break each step down with some extra details… Step 1: Change your Windows 10 account to a Microsoft Account UPDATE: Maybe not… Read this instead: VICTORY! Reactivate Windows 10 after a hardware upgrade This just means that instead of logging in to Win 10 with a local account and password, you’ll be logging in to Windows using your online Microsoft account. That means you’ll need to either use your Microsoft online password to sign in to Windows (temporarily), or you can set up a 4-digit PIN code as the password. The key here is that when you link your copy of Windows 10 to your online Microsoft account, they store your “activation key” so to speak. After your hardware upgrade, and because your copy of Windows 10 is linked to your online Microsoft account, you will be able to re-activate without reinstalling everything. To switch to a Microsoft Account, just do the following: Click Start (windows logo) and then click Settings. Click the Update & security item. On the next screen, click Activation in the left-hand column: 26 February 2017 You’ve upgraded to Windows 10. All is well. But then one day, you decide to upgrade your motherboard, processor, and RAM… With Windows 7, you didn’t have anything to worry about. Most likely, Windows would reactivate after your upgrade, and if it didn’t, an automated phone call to Microsoft was all it took to get back up and running. But then came Windows 10: You now have a digital entitlement, which then changed to a digital license, which means… ??? Furthermore, until recently your ONLY option was to reinstall everything. So how the heck do you reactivate Windows 10 after a major hardware upgrade? The Basics First of all, before you upgrade your puter, you should probably read my post from 2010 entitled Upgrade Your Motherboard Without Reinstalling your OS. The simple trick in the above post still applies. In some cases, if you are also going to upgrade your graphics card, it’s a good idea to change the Display Adapter driver to the “Standard VGA” one, just in case. Otherwise, it’s a piece of cake. The Windows 10 Re-activation Trick It’s pretty simple: If necessary, change your Win 10 account to a Microsoft Account instead of a Local Account Upgrade, and tell Win 10 to re-activate Change your Win 10 account back to a Local Account if you want DONE! Let’s break each step down with some extra details… Step 1: Change your Windows 10 account to a Microsoft Account UPDATE: Maybe not… Read this instead: VICTORY! Reactivate Windows 10 after a hardware upgrade This just means that instead of logging in to Win 10 with a local account and password, you’ll be logging in to Windows using your online Microsoft account. That means you’ll need to either use your Microsoft online password to sign in to Windows (temporarily), or you can set up a 4-digit PIN code as the password. The key here is that when you link your copy of Windows 10 to your online Microsoft account, they store your “activation key” so to speak. After your hardware upgrade, and because your copy of Windows 10 is linked to your online Microsoft account, you will be able to re-activate without reinstalling everything. To switch to a Microsoft Account, just do the following: Click Start (windows logo) and then click Settings. Click the Update & security item. On the next screen, click Activation in the left-hand column: Then, you just click the Add an account link, and sign in to your online Microsoft Account: 26 February 2017 You’ve upgraded to Windows 10. All is well. But then one day, you decide to upgrade your motherboard, processor, and RAM… With Windows 7, you didn’t have anything to worry about. Most likely, Windows would reactivate after your upgrade, and if it didn’t, an automated phone call to Microsoft was all it took to get back up and running. But then came Windows 10: You now have a digital entitlement, which then changed to a digital license, which means… ??? Furthermore, until recently your ONLY option was to reinstall everything. So how the heck do you reactivate Windows 10 after a major hardware upgrade? The Basics First of all, before you upgrade your puter, you should probably read my post from 2010 entitled Upgrade Your Motherboard Without Reinstalling your OS. The simple trick in the above post still applies. In some cases, if you are also going to upgrade your graphics card, it’s a good idea to change the Display Adapter driver to the “Standard VGA” one, just in case. Otherwise, it’s a piece of cake. The Windows 10 Re-activation Trick It’s pretty simple: If necessary, change your Win 10 account to a Microsoft Account instead of a Local Account Upgrade, and tell Win 10 to re-activate Change your Win 10 account back to a Local Account if you want DONE! Let’s break each step down with some extra details… Step 1: Change your Windows 10 account to a Microsoft Account UPDATE: Maybe not… Read this instead: VICTORY! Reactivate Windows 10 after a hardware upgrade This just means that instead of logging in to Win 10 with a local account and password, you’ll be logging in to Windows using your online Microsoft account. That means you’ll need to either use your Microsoft online password to sign in to Windows (temporarily), or you can set up a 4-digit PIN code as the password. The key here is that when you link your copy of Windows 10 to your online Microsoft account, they store your “activation key” so to speak. After your hardware upgrade, and because your copy of Windows 10 is linked to your online Microsoft account, you will be able to re-activate without reinstalling everything. To switch to a Microsoft Account, just do the following: Click Start (windows logo) and then click Settings. Click the Update & security item. On the next screen, click Activation in the left-hand column: Then, you just click the Add an account link, and sign in to your online Microsoft Account: You’ll need to enter your Local Account password. From this point on, you’ll need to sign in to Windows itself using your Microsoft account password. You can change this later after your upgrade and re-activation is complete. https://scottiestech.info/2017/02/26/upgrade-your-motherboard-without-reinstalling-windows-10/