DTWD

Oh bottom, that's annoying.

The the further into DCS World we get the one annoying thing I have is that I purchased the Blackshark 2 upgrade for my original Blackshark. Is there a way to convert my key so I don't have to keep installing Blackshark every time I want to add the module to DCS World? Or has this behaviour changed now?

I only use DCS Beta, currently it's on 1.2x and I want to go to 1.5, but when I press update it says the update is suspended and I am encouraged to download the installer. That's fine, but do I need to remove my 1.2 beta first, or will this upgrade it? If I have to blank install it do I have to remove each of my modules first before un-installing 1.2? I don't mind clearing the decks before 1.5, I just want to make sure I don't eat up any activations first.

Thanks, purchased and added to my DCS account (which is so much easier with the new website!). An utter bargain at £8.18! You would have to be a fool to skip this one.

If I purchase the Hawk off your website, I understand I can add the key to the ED and get the module via the manager. That's great, exactly how I want it to work. However my question is, when the SFM gets upgraded to the EFM, will my key allow me to get the update on the ED side? Because it seems to be being sold as an SFM only on the ED website.

I am still getting the "temporarily suspended" message and the URL that opens says it should have been fixed yesterday. Am I getting a different problem or are the updates still down?

You forgot another option: 0 <-ME

Yeah I normally wait for the sales to pick up bits as I don't play all that often, but this seemed like such a good deal as standard (on pre-order), that I snapped it up.

Thank you.

I meant specifically on the Caucasus map?

Where is that video "filmed"? I wouldn't mind flying around that area.

Same jump I made, from the 680. Sadly I haven't been on the PC since I installed it...

I have the 980ti, I installed it yesterday but due to my Warthog problems I haven't tested it in DCS yet. As far as the card goes, it feels like a very premium item!

Many thanks!

Where can you watch it? I have heard the talk of the streams but no mention of where we can watch it if we missed it?

Just tears...:cry:

I have also done this, works great. Go slow though, I did too much at first and had to build it back up with resin.

Purchasing/building your own extension gives the effect of a loosened spring and gives greater control. I got the 12.5cm one from here: http://www.simpit.co.nz/index.php/products/thrustmaster-warthog-extension

Use Steam as a source to purchase the modules, but use the ED install to play them. It's easier all-round once you are setup.

They aren't always this long, some are 24-48 hours, but there have been others of this length in the past.

Just a heads up to people, these sales are sometimes followed by a Steam sale. The Steam summer sale is around the corner so it's possible this time. Now the ED sale is usually very competitively priced and I am not saying you are going to a) find the module you want on Steam, b) find it on sale or c) it be cheaper than at Eagle even if it is on sale. However Steam's transactions are usually in your local currency, whereas every purchase I have made from Eagle is in USD (even when changing it to GBP at the checkout). I live in the UK, so my credit card company likes to bend me over and show me the error of my ways of buying something in USD. The flip side is that buying here more money could theoretically go to ED and/or the module devs. I am mentioning this because those on a tight budget might get a nasty shock in a few weeks.

What are you scrolling through? Is this information likely to be something that is stored locally or on the server? If it's the latter it could be your internet connection. If you can, can you take your PC to your friends and test it there? It might be quicker and easier to do that than trying to diagnose a network/ISP fault.

Wow, you take your immersion seriously! What do you wear when flying the KA50? :D

...ok. Right, FPS and Refresh Rate are not interchangeable, they are not the same thing. Your monitor will always run at the same refresh rate, regardless of what it's showing, in most cases that's 60Hz. In English that means it's refreshing the picture 60 times per second, regardless of how fast that picture is actually changing. When you are playing a game your graphics card is working as hard as it can to draw/render the picture you are seeing on the screen. If it's rendering 1fps (frame per second) then your view is redrawn once a second. However your monitor is still refreshing that 1 picture 60 times a second. The more frames per second your graphics card can draw the smoother the action is. When you reach 60fps your graphics card is rendering 1 frame per monitor refresh. When your monitor reaches 61+ fps your monitor will now start to show partially drawn frames because it's refresh does not match the graphics card output. This is what is known as "tearing". Tearing is where you are seeing part of one frame and part of another. In fast moving scenes this can give a distorted look. When you set VSYNC you are limiting the GPU output fps to the refresh rate of the monitor. This means that you will never get a partially drawn frame in the refresh, so you won't get tearing. VSYNC only stops the GPU from outputting more frames than your monitors refresh rate, this might be more than 60hz with bigger/better gaming monitors. However we have a major problem with VSYNC. When the frames are below 60, VSYNC's next stop is 30fps (because 30 goes into 60hz twice - thus no tearing). So if you are getting 60fps happily and then get 59, the GPU will be instantly limited to 30. When the GPU is capable of drawing 60fps again it jumps back up. The problem is, if your hovering around 60fps you will get stuttering as the frame rate changes between 30 and 60 constantly. Bigger problems occur when you drop below 30fps, at 29 you drop to 20 (because 20 goes 3 times into 60) and then 15 (you get the idea). This is where adaptive VSYNC comes in. Adaptive VSYNC only enables VSYNC when the FPS is over the monitor refresh rate. When it's under it disables VSYNC and allows the GPU to draw the frames as fast as it can. This means that the frame rate is smoother and more consistent, both preventing tearing and stuttering (to a degree). You may also have "Adaptive 30fps" or "Adaptive half refresh rate", which is exactly the same as the full adaptive VSYNC, but this time the limit is half the refresh rate. This means your GPU never tries to push above, in our example, 30fps. If you can't quite keep 60fps, then locking it at 30fps is going to almost guarantee consistent 30fps frame rate, no dips or stuttering and no tearing. VSYNC does not really save power or reduce GPU wear, instead it's running the same as it ever was, but is now throwing away un-required frames. If you could run at 900 fps, then that's what the card is going to do, but instead of trying to display those 900 frames it's going to throw most of them away when using VSYNC. However, there is something that can limit your FPS thus saving power and reducing wear, it's called Frame Limiting. Frame limiting is starting to come out in games, but isn't currently available in DCS. If the GPU is capable of 61fps and you enable frame limiting then you won't see any saving in power/wear on the GPU. However if it will quite happily sit at 90fps, then you will see a difference. The GPU won't have to work anywhere near as hard thus it won't use as much power and won't need to cool as much etc. A couple of caveats: 1) Tearing is still possible even below the monitor refrash rate VSYNC cap - It's just not really noticeable. 2) Faster games, where reactions are key, can benefit from GPU's not being limited because of input polling - This creates a lag/distortion between input and what's shown on the screen. At high level FPS gaming this can kill you...apparently. To the OP: Yes it's overkill for DCS - Enable VSYNC.

The "seeing the real world" is easily fixed. You have a camera on the front of the headset, just add a toggle switch, or some fancy positioning, to fade the "real world" in and the game world out.