sharkfin61

Thank you, will take that in account. Does anyone have experience with AZDelivery boards?

Thank you for your helpful inputs. I think, I will put my decision un hold, until the ARC 210 is finally implemented. Still have to take some time for the current projects, as I will have to re-do my CDU again from scratch (new baseboard, new switches without integrated LEDs, ...). But I feel more and more the need to befriend me with the Arduino code as the sim parts become more and more. So, maybe the RS485 solution could be a future writing on my wall.

Great, so maybe we will have to talk about the Arduino sketch if the ARC210 is implemented in the Tankkiller. I was also looking for a fitting 4’‘ green display as I read the other das the real one is a 128x64 Pixel Monitor. As I‘m running out of HDMI and Displayports, can the Arduino hardware/software Project a picture from the sim data? Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk

And, if i may kindly add this, give the user perhaps the chance to save the settings under an own, specific name. Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk

Helios touchscreens help You can enlarge f.e. the certain instruments by selecting them with a double click and grabbing the outer border. A new tab should open. But be careful, if the module contains several smaller items, like pointers or lamps, you have to press the Ctrl key too. Otherwise you might just scale the background. You may also alter the size in the right pane of the Profile Explorer. Dn‘t know of the artful background of the consoles can be resized too. Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk

Maybe it would be helpful if you state the version of Helios you are using. The 1.6 version gives you the possibility to decide on which screen you want to have, f.e. your instruments, displayed with a button click. It also configures the monitors Lua file that you have to choose later on in-game for the corresponding view. Important that you reset your monitors in the "Helios profiler" first. When each of your three displays shows up, you should be able to pick the instruments or levers you want to put them on the outer monitors. Did you check that document? Helios Guide

Thanks a kot, wilco. Have to make the decision of I start to lesen something completely News, linke arduino, or use the bb-32 board that i already have.

Like those? Driven by an Arduino?

After purchasing the A-10C "THUNDERBOLT" / "WARTHOG" VHF / UHF PANEL" from pcflights.com, I slipped, stumbled and fell over the spacing of the holes for the channel selector rotaries. Any suggestion for 12 or 10 position rotary switches with a baseplate diameter, smaller than 1 inch/ 25mm? Or maybe there is another solution?

I can confirm that. Just upgraded my 2nd rig to 32 Gigs, but almost fell off my chair when flying the Tankkiller over Syria, when I saw the RAM eating. That didn't help in my case.

Same here. Only works when I disable (--) the rest of the "dofiles". Maybe to put them in another order would help?

If you dig into that tread, you'll find a way to flick the switch into the "off" position without switching it to "on" again. Modifying the *.luas does the trick.

Thank you, will try that when I'm back home. Worked w/o problems. Now I just have to convince HELIOS to work ...

Bought it, showed up in profile as "paid" but if I try to install it via the module manager in-game, DCS just closes. Anyone having the same problem? Maybe the download servers are too busy?

After 4 attempts PayPal worked.

‚Shift‘ key, I suppose .

Thanks for the heads-up.

Ich hab es damals für USD 9,99 bekommen, zusammen mit er P-51 D, Das war 2013. Zum damaligen Tageskurs ca 7,80 €.

Thank you, bohemond, for your reply. The whole wiring with 4 long cables per switch really makes it a mess. I think I will try that as soon as my spare switches arrive (the ones, I should have ordered with my CDU-Replica parts :doh: )

OK, after soldering all wires to my switches and LEDs a question popped up in my mind, maybe someone can give me some advice. Is it better to wire all ground pins to plug them into the Leo Bodnar BBI-64 board or would it be better to just dasychain the ground cables (to minimize the amount of wires and reduce stiffiness, by the cost of having to de-solder the connection in case of failure)? May somone has experience with that matter and can provide a hint?

Thank you for your replies. I did use the tactile switches from pc flights. In the end, I spend a lot of time and swearing to bend all the little legs to fit the in a standard 2.45mm spacing breadboard. Took a lot of effort but I finally made it. Led's came to glow last night. But I think I will never show anyone the flip side of the breadboard with my soldering "art". I would recommend anyone with the same electrical knowledge that I have to go for separated switches and led's. Might save some time, sweat and tears.

The fight with the deamons of electricity was won, although the war is still on.... LET THERE BE LIGHT!

You're definitely right, birch plywood will do the job a lot better. I just need something underneath to support the longitudinal aluminium square tubes between the frames. Meanwhile I'm going nuts with the soldering of the resistors for my CDU :cry:...:doh:

Thank you. My only problem with them is how to fix the aluminium square tubings as the dzus rails on it. And to connwct the frames from the square tubings without welding. Maybe I will put a 3mm layer of MDF on the consoles first.

Also my consoles are at an early stage: