Wicked.-

It's your script isn't it? If so it's great help!

Here's the link to the thread with the script file. http://www.realsimulator.com/FSSB_R3_Forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=51

Go to the realsimulator.com website then the forums for the FSSB. The script file can be downloaded and a link to freepi is there as well. You'll need to go to control panel, hardware and sound devices, right click on the FSSB and click on game controller settings. You should get a list of all of your game controllers. Count from the top down with the first controller being 0. Whatever number your FSSB3 is you'll need to put in the script unless it's already the right one.

This has happened to me a couple times and as recently as tonight. Originally I thought it might be ground effect from heat rising in the hot desert..... seriously lol. However, no other module does it. It happened tonight when running from 31's while Winchester. When I was able to climb up again, I realized my stores of 4 CBU97's hadn't dropped when I hit emergency jettison earlier. I know you're not supposed to approach Mach speeds while CAT3. Having 4 CBU97's is definitely CAT3. You will break the pylons if you do. I don't know your total loadout as I didn't watch the video but at least in my case that was the problem. I've flown low and fast in it many times now and only experienced the problem twice. That's my guess anyway.

The oddness of the Viper throttle is what pushes all of my "THAT IS ****ING COOL!!!" buttons lol.

I don't remember being able to do that in the past. Good to know. I'll keep tweaking my FSSB3.

Chaff/Flare dispense button

Yes sir I am using the Freepie script. I installed it to help me not crank so hard in pitch when merging/merged and defending. It's done wonders for me in that regard but may have made me timid when it comes to roll. Thanks for the replies. I'll look for 167 degrees per second. @Emmy CAT 1 clean jet, no armament. Besides, I can pull 8.5G's with 2 full wing tanks, 4 slammers, 2 heaters and a full load of guns. At that weight the jet should be in CAT3 and limit my AOA to where 8.5G's is not possible. I'm pretty sure CAT1 and 3 are not implemented yet.

Lol! Wait till you find out how much the missile selector switch costs! These switches are the real thing with silver and gold contacts and they're milspec dustproof and water proof. I'm seriously thinking of buying the Dogfight and Speed Brake switches for my TQS build.

I'm making one currently and this is the big question I'm struggling with. I've seen a very nice base, throttle arm and friction design a guy did on the other Viper sim forums. He scaled down the arm and wheel to fit in a slightly larger base than the one for a Cougar TQS. Apart from scale he also moved the friction wheel away from the arm about an inch. Unfortunately it had a Cougar TQS grip attached to it and he wants $4000 to build them.... he sold the one I saw in the video but if I'm going to spend that much I'll buy an almost perfect replica from Aerotronics. While I can use a full size, a scaled down but correctly functioning arm and friction wheel would work best all around. Unless you're building a pit.

I don't seem to get the same roll rate that I know the jet is capable of. Whether I'm below corner or above and the jet is clean it seems it should roll much faster. I'm using an FSSB3 Lighting stick, it barely takes any input to initiate a roll but even with my curves set to negative 18 it just doesn't seem to be as fast as in this video and others. Anyone having better luck? If so what settings are you using? Thanks,

Set CMS forward on your stick if it's a Warthog or Cougar to Chaff/Flare. It's for the slap switch above the throttle and it will only dispense 2 of each. It will work for now. You can program any button you like but I put it on my CMS forward and use CMS depress for CMS "run program" for now.

Aerotronics has eliminated the throttle guide on the side wall and the detents are somehow connected to the rudders... I've not figured that one out but there are ways to eliminate the guide. This is the real thing. F-16C Block 50/52 I believe from what I can see of the radio switch.

You can buy a-la-cart at the Steam store. HMD $500, the base stations are $150 each but you can use the 1.0 base stations. The 2.0 are not backward compatible with older Vive peripherals.

I've pretty much decided to make my own. I bought my first Cougar within days of it being released and absolutely loved it like a kid getting a new pony. For six months lol. By then I had worn out the roll gimbal so the stick would sag to the left and the throttle pot had started spiking. I then bought Cubby's (RIP) Hall sensor mod and was good again for a while until the stick was so worn, even with full deflection it wouldn't move the pot. Also, the TQS detents and friction control had worn out. Over the years I've had 5. I hoped that TM would update the design like they did the stick but no joy and the fact they just released an new 18 grip and pedals with no mention of a TQS doesn't bode well for a new TQS in the near future. What I'm deciding now is whether I want a full size arm and friction wheel or scaled down for desktop use. Regardless of the friction design it WILL have a fully functioning cutoff with complete, accurate and functioning guide rail. It will be as accurate as I can make it even though the real DF and SB switches are about $250 each lol. Hopefully my buddy will be able to CNC the grip and associated parts like the cuttoff lever, friction wheel axel, et al in a week or so. Software is pretty much done. The WinWing 18 HOTAS is awesome but I'm not interested in putting a 16 grip on it.

Yep, the hardest for me to dial in was trapping. I was just getting back to normal form when the Viper was released lol. Haven't touched the Hornet since. I had the Hornet pretty locked down. It has a tendency to "bounce" is the best way I can describe it. with the Viper it's the exact opposite. I have it pretty twitchy and had to put a negative curve on the roll.

Following.

Great video Gas. You're making me want to bust out my old MVS-Wicked banners lol.

Did you lower the Y saturation? I think I'll try that tomorrow.

Not enough threads? I'll bet he can make a one off if you ask or take your current extension to machine shop if you can find one. They can put it on a lathe and extend the threads.

Yes it's in VR. Anyone in the room at the time will think I'm an idiot but yes, I hold the left or right mouse button then either raise my head which will usually go clockwise and lower it back down for CCW. Sometimes you have to go side to side. I am on the waiting list for the Point Control which will hopefully eliminate the need but good idea on the scroll wheel. I haven't tried that yet. It would definitely make volume knobs easier to deal with...

I haven't flown it in a while but the heavier pitch was to get rid of pitch oscillation. It was very hard to dial in for trapping. If it's too heavy try the current one loaded.

Use the one in slot 2.

So I am now using the pinky switch right for the right mouse click and it works great. However when I tried using it or the TMS center press for left click, it doesn't work like the switch I use on my throttle for left mouse click. Specifically, when I want to turn on a rotating knob, typically I will look at it placing the blue cross on the knob, left click and while holding it, lift my head up which DCS sees as turning the knob. It's a pain but I'm used to it. This does not work using switches on the F16SGRH. I have no idea why.

Sweet! I was unaware of this. Also, the on-board Bluetooth in my Asus Z390 E Gamer board works perfectly with the F-16SGRH.