Thasiet

Whatever floats your boat. My feeling is DCS, especially the more recent modules, does a better job letting momentary buttons emulate latching switches then latching switches could ever emulate a momentary one. And with most other titles latching switches are nearly useless. Having the positional feedback is certainly nice, but having to remember to reset switch states before any mission loads gets tiresome, and if I consistently forget to do it, then that physical feedback is no longer trustworthy anyway. I know you can write lua scripts to automatically sync switch states, but I still have to remember to reset switches lest I find myself starting a mission at 600kts and with gear and flaps down.

FYI for everyone using it for zoom outside of VR for whom the detente is a nuisance: if you open the grip to get at the pot, up there's (just) enough readable range on one side of the detente alone to remove the detente entirely from the physical travel range of the lever. Just pop the lever off the pot shaft and rotate it a little bit to where the detente is just beyond the limit stop, put the lever back on. Do this with the Virpil config software open so you can check the raw values on the pot, because if you go too far then you'll have dead travel on the other side. It's a small sweet spot, but I assure you it's there.

Ripping apart expensive toys and taking a soldering iron to them is scary, I know. But you could also just replace them with actual momentary switches. Took like 20 minutes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/T80-R-ON-OFF-ON-Momentary-3Pin-Plastic-Square-Black-Mini-Toggle-Switch-SPDT/184003227867?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

And he's just going to ask for a Scandinavian fjords map. Either way, exciting!

Another way to fix the limited usefulness of the toggle switches, replace the latching ones with momentary switches. Still need to run the software to map the unused physical inputs to a logical input.

Yes.

I find my Gunfighter Mk II cams to be too light in the center, too stiff at the edges. I want non-linearity to the cams, just not as much non-linearity. How would you say the aluminum aviation cams compare in this regard to your Mk I? I have a WarBRD also and the resistance profile on that is just perfect.

You can reassign the number to the MFDs with the latest TM driver. Probably doesn't change the VID/PID, so this alone might confuse DCS, but between this and simple editing of the control assignments file you should be able to make it work.

It's the bushing that the preload adjuster screws thread into. Pull the gimbal out and unscrew the preload adjusters until the screw falls out of the bushing. Next pop the bushing out out of the aluminum arm. Now go feel all the burrs in the race that the bushing rotates in as the spring compresses; that's your problem. Polish the races with a progression of sandpaper grits. 250 --> 600 --> 2000 should do you well. Grease the bushing and reassemble.

Mk I, with L-brackets, and Mk II, with a hacked up WarBRD desk mount. Unfortunately adapting my Mk II design to a Virpil accessory base plate won't be the easiest affair, since there is no metal directly under the u-bracket that you could drop a bolt straight down to. This unforgiveable oversight will, of course, be fixed in the Mongoose-T50CM2 base plate which will, of course, be announced the day after your previous Virpil order ships.

I don't like the current cams on my Gunfighter Mk II; too aggressively non-linear. Too soft around the center, too firm at the edges. Frankly prefer my Virpils right now. So, are these "revised" aviation cams, relative to the old ones, more progressive, or are they more linear, or are they the same as far as profile?

Oh you know it. I believe the springs I'm using are 1 7/8" by .035 wire.

Q: Umm, what? A: Q: Why? A: Because it gives you the benefit of cams, without the cams. Because this also neatly solves two of the biggest problems with the Fighterstick gimbal, namely, the weak spring tension and the annoying center 'clunk', which are related issues. The strength of the center clunk is proportional to the strength of the centering springs, as anyone who has merely installed stronger springs has discovered. The profile of a non-linear spring, by contrast, allows light spring tension near the center (with a weak centering clunk) with greater spring tension toward the edges. The increased tension reduces overcontrolling. The non-linearity promotes greater accuracy, for the simple reason that your musculature is a terrible tape measure, but an excellent strain gauge. Q: How? A: Figure it out. All I used was a small flat screwdriver and the pliers on my Leatherman. Start with springs that are a good bit stiffer than stock (the operation will soften their max tension), and short enough that they still fit after being stretched. What I have pictured ended up lighter than stock around the center, and somewhat stiffer at the edges. Comparable to #30 VKB springs, or so. Q: Damn you, I don't have a Gunfighter, that's why I'm reading your stupid post. How does this compare? A: Not as good, but surprisingly close. Arguably preferable to a stock Gladiator (but you could do this mod to one of those too...) Way better than any of that Logitech crap. Certainly good enough to justify Rel4y's Mk II sensor and board upgrades as soon as they're available. Q: Anything else? A: Disassemble the whole gimbal, the whole of it, and Nyogel 767a the crap out of everything that moves.

It's 50 euros, not 40, and the reduced size and weight should save an additional bundle on the (very expensive) international shipping. The keycaps can be removed and labelled, the throttle has 20 degrees more throw, the guarded toggle and cone of shame button will not be missed, the simplified layout will be better for "find by grope" in VR, the detachable cable and beefed-up flap lever are very nice. With THIS MANY buttons, yes still, and DCS support for shift buttons, and clickable cockpits for things I use so infrequently I won't bother to memorize where they are on the joystick anyway, I really don't see the need for a five way mode dial. I guess it'll make a good fuel tank selector for the P-51. I'd have preferred a three position latching switch on the butt end of the grip to have for A-10 lights control, but I'll take another rotary encoder over the original two position latching switch. The two toggles hidden between the throttle and flap lever look like a bother to get to, but oh well. It does look more toy-like, but let's not fool ourselves; it --is-- a toy. Been waiting for the right kit to replace my excellent TWCS+mmjoyX35T frankenbeast. This one is finally a definite buy.

This entire thread is specifically about a plastic grip.

Virpil's grips are plastic. So are Glocks.

Like it's as simple as there's four 4021 registers connected in series instead of three, and the inputs on the fourth register are just invisible to a Warthog? Yah I hope it's as easy as that.

Cyph3r will all 35 buttons be able to work if connected through an mmjoy board? I mean, Mega Mozg works for Virpil, so it's all in the family, riiiight? I have a T-50 base but I also just built a Microsoft FFB2 base with a Warthog adapter and an mmjoy2 arduino mounted internally to run the grip buttons as a separate device. I'm sure I can get this new grip running on the FFB2 in TMW compatibility mode, but dammit man I want all 35 buttons! Thanks much

For your specific use case of case I in the F-18, throttle is much more important than stick; really any cheap stick does fine with the fly by wire jets. The high end sticks with extensions and notchless gimbals and progressive tension are really only better with non FBW aircraft and especially props and helos where you need to counteract prop forces with subtle off center inputs. Best pricepoint for F-18 is get a Thrustmaster TWCS wherever, and stalk fleabay for a used CH Fighterstick USB for $30-50 USD. Then as additional money comes online, upgrade the Fighterstick sensors with rel4y's magres kit, and get a small tube of Nyogel 767a to slather on every moving surface on the stick and the throttle.

Well I guess that makes me the winner by default. Thanks Istari! Can definitely get that stick rebuilt and put to good use. Just PM me whenever you've got the time to coordinate payment and shipping. No rush.

I'll take it; I've done a couple rebuilds already. Stick only or throttle too? Can you get me a rate for USPS to Oregon 97210? Thanks!

"Scaling – The displayed image (flight path, pitch and yaw scaling, etc.), are scaled to present to the pilot a picture that overlays the outside world in an exact 1:1 relationship. For example, objects (such as a runway threshold) that are 3 degrees below the horizon as viewed from the cockpit must appear at the −3 degree index on the HUD display." If they changed the scaling to mollycoddle everyone's aggrievement, it would no longer have conformity with the outside world So, the HUD is correct as-is, and moreover I suspect ED made the original A-10 position too far forward as a kludge specifically to allow the entire HUD to be seen, which is how it should remain in the non-vr environment. That said, the new vr position does feel a just few inches too far backward now.

Maybe not after shipping to Germany, but this seemed like a fairly insane price on Alps encoders. I may go back for a second order :lol: Yeah definitely not suggesting what you're doing is overpriced in any way. Noh, the value for value proposition is pretty unmissable here. It's just while it would be deeply gratifying to fix the obnoxious but in no way fatal flaw with my Fighterstick, it would also cost literally ten times the $5 USD I paid a thrift store for it, to perfect a stick I no longer even use now that I am blessed with a Virpil T-50. Also I'm on the precipice of plowing all my savings and then some in pursuit of a commercial pilot's license, so, ya know, there's that. Even still, I'm sure I'm down for at least a couple to slap into that new "what the hell is he building in there?" project. I accept and trust what you're saying, it's just for all the bad rap CH gimbal gets, it's really a very well made version of the exact gimbal design that's good enough for even the most expensive radio controlled aircraft. I'm just struggling to imagine how it could be inappropriate for a hall sensor when whatever jive assed engineering goes into a T16000M or Saitek gadget can handle it, but I guess the way the pot is a structural part of the gimbal in the CH must be a big part of the explanation. Actually feels surprisingly similar to my VKB pedals. I may leave it like the seesaw that it currently is, or I may build a simple hinged pedal on top of that to press the seesaw bars down, not sure yet.

I think the project was to convert my other grips to work with my T-50 and also with a modified FFB2. I've more or less abandoned that due to 1) I like my F22 grip the best of all of them and it has the most buttons 2) I've gorilla taped my F22 grip to my T-50 base to help lock down the rotation and to reinforce the flexy 3d printed tailpipe. Thus, switching grips will be a PITA and I'm also worried about the connector. Best to just leave it alone 3) heavy grips with lots of buttons really not a great match for the FFB2 base, at least not before I turbocharge the motors. Nope, new project is to improve upon the VKB Gladiator forumula with a better all-in-one: So that's a three pack of two way momentary toggles in the base now, and gonna have a couple of encoders and bunch of panel mount pushbuttons in before the end. The rudder pedals are half of an F-22 Pro gimbal and the base plate. The lashed on mending brace is just a proof of concept. I think I want to attach a big coupling nut to the gimbal and then screw a big lag bolt in each side for the pedals, that way I can have reasonable feet spacing but break it down to pack small... Since it's going to run on mmjoy2 I'm not worried about the 8bit resolution of the CH board's adc, just wanted to know because I thought I might want to upgrade my Fighterstick as well, but not at that price. Probably still interested in at least a couple though whenever you have another batch in. But I should figure out how to make my own cheapo hall sensor pots like these mega mozg ones: Can anyone kindly link me to whatever resources there are vis a vis 1) what magnets to use and 2) how to set up the rotation and calibrate, especially in cases like the one in the photo where it looks like the magnet has to be glued into place? Thanks.

These will still be limited to 8 bit resolution when used plug in play into a CH board, right? How much are the CH pots going to cost? Definitely interested in a few. Same Thasiet from SimHQ forums.