melchionda

I’ve found sometimes I damage the gear on carrier take off if I don’t get it up fast enough. I’m guessing the gear is down above the max gear speed and something is getting damaged. When that happens I get the alarm but the gear is actually up. On one flight I looked under the plane and saw that I had ripped one of the front landing gear doors off the plane. This is just a guess based on what I think I am seeing

Hi, Long time Pimax 8KX owner here. I just upgraded my GPU from at 2080TI to an Asus ROG Strix 3090. Was thinking I would re-visit my settings to see if I can get some better visuals. Also, I havn't spent any time tweaking the graphics since before the 2.7 release so it seems like a good time to do it. What is the latest go to source for Nvidia Control Panel, Steam VR and DCS settings to optimize the Pimax 8KX? Right now my biggest complaints are: 1.) Lots of anti-aliasing on details at a distance 2.) Flickering shadows 3.) When I am flying low and I look out the side of the cockpit at the ground the movement of the ground isnt smooth, but rather its a rapid series of "steps" that makes it hard to see details. The rest of my PC specs. Intel Core i9 10900K CPU, 64GB of RAM, 4TB of NvME M.2 drives.

@Ala12Rv-Tundra, @Sabre_Ewan Thanks for the tip. For some reason I thought that VR center was like the other camera controls (which are all multi-key stroke commands). I ended up going into VR-Center and changed it so now I can use the number pad as a number pad.

Hi, In an effort to make entering coordinates into my F18 UFC easier I purchased an inexpensive usb external number keypad. Has anyone else done this and did you have any issues with conflicts with camera movement commands? For some reason some of the numbers were not just entering numbers into the UFC but they are also causing my cockpit view to move/change. This might be a problem that I created (and forgot about) but before I drive myself crazy trying to figure this out I thought that I would see if there were any tricks to getting a number pad to work as an input device for a UFC. I was hoping that I could have a direct 1:1 relationship between my UFC keys and the number keys on the usb number keypad.

I used to think that too except studies have shown that reading comprehension when reading from a real book is greater than when you read from a tablet. My personal experience bears that out. Also, tablet content is harder to skim when looking across a lot of pages... which in the case of these manuals is critical when cross referencing something that I am reading in that moment with something from another section.

Does anyone know how to give others access to print them? I'm more than happy to share these I did the DCS Manual as well As Chucks Guide as well as the A10 docs. I'm not sure how to share access and quite frankly after two days of messing around with these files I'm exhausted! This became an obsession for me. Also reached out to Eagle Dynamic Tech support about the format of their PDFs but they were no help. I sent them instructions on what they need to do to embed the fonts but not sure if they picked that up. Note that the F/A18 docs especially the "Chucks Guide" isn't "Perfect". I skimmed it and it looks pretty good but to get a perfect print out requires the skills of a real print professional processing the job... I don't have those skills. I'll be much better able to judge how good these are after I get them. The A10 Manuals and the F14 Manual are "Almost Perfect". Note that V1 and V2 refer to "Volume 1" and "Volume 2". I had to split them to bind them.

@Mower Using Lulu.com it cost me $35 total including shipping to print the whole manual. I think thats a pretty good deal! Which is why I made the effort. Their pricing is really good, its just that they have very strict requirements on the file characteristics.

I think I finally did it. Took me a few days of messing around with this file. The solution that I came up with was: 1.) Convert the file it to PDF/X - (This force embedded all of the fonts. This was necessary because just a regular embed didn't work.) 2.) Did a batch re-format of all of the pages to 8.5x11 format 3.) Split the file into two volumes so that it could be bound. Unfortunately the PDF Organize "Split" feature couldn't do it; instead I had to duplicate the file and then delete half of the pages from each of the files to make a Volume 1 and Volume 2. This was actually easier than using the "Split" feature as I was able to retain the cover and the table of contents for both volumes. It also gave me more control of where the split occurred. Anyway.. a major ass-whip, but I was able to save a couple hundred dollars.

Has anyone been able to print this manual for a reasonable cost? If so where? I've been trying to print the latest version of the Hornet manual. I usually print these manuals using LuLu.com... costs about $25 USD. However their online print service has been choking on the file for a few reason... 1.) The page sizes are metric. 2.) Some of the fonts are not embedded. 3.) It's 400 pages and so it can't be bound at that size. (Needs to be split into two documents) I realize that I could send this to FedEx Office and pay them around $300 USD to print it but at that point its cost prohibitive. I've been attempting to fix the file in Adobe Acrobat Pro but have been unsuccessful so far. The file was originally created in MS Word and Saved as a PDF out of MS Word... which adds other issues because it's a different flavor of PDF than the Adobe version. Sean

Yes, there is no response in the windows controller section when you push the button to the right. it also feels different in that direction. The other directions there is a tactile "click" however when you push to the right it's "mushy".

I just installed my Thrustmaster F/A18 Grip for the first time today and I noticed that the Sensor Control Switch is defective in that it doesn't register when you push it to the right. As it was a Christmas gift I would rather not go through the process of working with the gift giver to return it and get a new one. Has anyone found the direct replacement switch? This mod looks great but I'm not so keen to cut into the structure of my stick.

My Sensor control switch does not register when you push to the right. All other directions work. This was a Christmas gift and I would rather not tell the sender that I have to return it and then they have to deal with it. So I am hoping to be able to fix this switch myself. Has anyone had to replace the 4-way Sensor control switch?

Hi guys... Hi got a Thrustmaster F/A 18 Grip for Christmas. I finally got around to setting it up this weekend and now I see that the 4-way push button sensor control switch is broken. It does not work when you push it to the right. All other directions work. Because it was a gift I'd rather not go through the process of trying to return it and get a new one; I think its also out of stock. Is it possible to replace the switch?

I am right there with you. I use Pimax 8KX and I think there is maybe one or two choices out there for prescription inserts for that headset. I went with the VRMust inserts. I think I must have been their first customer. They were clueless as to what prescription I should use for the inserts... (Reading or Distance.... it turns out you need to use the "Distance" prescription). When I got them the lenses were too narrow...ie the edge of the lenses was visible in my field of view; which defeats the point of having a Pimax headset with a massive field of view. Also, the Insert was overly complicated, consisting of 5 parts that are loosely held together inside the headset. I gave them some feedback on the design including some drawings of what the frame should look like. I'd love to find a better solution. I SportRX makes an insert which I think could work really well. https://www.sportrx.com/prescription-ski-goggle-insert.html However they don't do a blue light coating, which I think is really important for a VR headset. I'd get a set from them just to try it out but they will not sell the insert with out lenses.

I'm running a Pimax 8KX. Something happened the other day where I lost some of my settings. Things like lighting, contrast, cockpit texture preference, the HMCS eye preference...etc. The biggest loss was that my lighting got screwed up (again) so that the sky is super bright (blindingly so) when my cockpit is perfect. In order for me to not be blinded by the glare in the sky I have to turn up the gamma to 3 or so but then the cockpit is too dark. Is there a mod out there to fix this or maybe a set of suggested settings that someone can share with me? I had this problem when I first started with DCS and I remember someone posted a fix for it... which worked pretty well.... I cant seem to find it now.

Yes, a professional printing service can deal with these issues, however it costs much much more. For example Fedex office wanted $279 to print the F14 guide. I think Lulu is highly automated/no touch service which is why it only costs $20 to print something that FedEx office wants to charge $279. Regarding using Adobe Acrobat. I don't have Acrobat as I don't ever work with pdfs. (Which is ironic considering I used to work for Adobe) I use a Mac for work stuff so if I have to make a pdf "save as PDF" is a feature of the operating system. In this case the DCS file is a pre-made PDF which suggests "print ready". However it's not print ready. I'm guessing that who ever is creating the pdfs at DCS isn't pre-flighting the file before they post it. Its a simple step... literally just checking a box when you make the pdf. However most people are not aware of what it takes to make a file print ready.

I am attempting to sprint the F/A18C Flight Manual. The printing service that I use is Lulu.com. If you are not aware of Lulu they will print one of these manuals full color, with a spiral binding and front and back covers for about $20 USD. I have printed several other DCS manuals and Chucks guides using their service. Unfortunately Lulu.com is telling me that they cannot print the manual due to the following problems. 1.) The fonts are not embedded. 2.) Some images use transparencies which may not show up as intended 3.) The trim size is not supported. I have had similar problems with the manual for the A10CII as well as the F14 but was able to modify the pdfs (using Ave PDF) so that they could get past the Lulu quality check. However I have been unable to fix the F18 manual, ever after several attempts including flattening the pdf and converting it to PDF/a. Has anyone been able to get the latest version of the F18 manual printed at Lulu.com? If so what did you do to overcome the issues related to the embedded fonts and cut size? Thanks Sean

When flying the F14 in the Hoggit multiplayer server I wanted to have the following stations tuned... 253 or 249 (I cant remember which one) for common communications and 134 (Human AWACS). I can tune 253/249 myself, but its my understanding that I need to have Jester tune the other radio to 134. However I cant figure out how to get Jester to tune in 134. Is it possible to get him to do that frequency?

Anyone have any success with the Strike "Instant Action" Mission of the A10CII? The mission is a strike on Abu Massa Island. You are supposed to destroy a platoon of tanks. The island is defended by a few SA6 sites. I cant get anywhere near the island without getting taken out by the SA6. There are some F16 that are supposed to do SEAD. I've tried going in with them and with out them. If I go with them I really have to hang back or I get shot down. If you've had success with this mission I would be interested to hear how you "attack" it. <- Pun intended.

Been flying DCS now for about a year and really want to start flying with other people that fly the A10C or at least fly missions that incorporate the A10C. Anyone have any suggestions of groups or servers that might be worth a look? I'm in California so PST timezone. I can fly weekday evenings between 7 and 10 and on the weekends in the afternoon and evening.

What about Force Correlate mode?

Hi, Let me know what I am doing wrong here... - I'm flying the A10CII in orbit around some ground targets... - I set the targeting pod to SOI and lock in on a ground target with point track. - I use the laser designator to get a more precise reading of the distance. At this point it looks like I have created a SPI on the ground target with the TPod. - Next I make my Maverick SOI and then slave the Maverick to my SPI. Now because I am still in orbit I reach the gimbal limits of the Maverick before I can see the ground target through the Maverick missile, however the missile is definitely attempting to lock onto the SPI. - Next I roll into the target and in doing so my wing momentarily masks the target from the TPOD view. PROBLEM.... When I finish my roll-in maneuver I will then see that the SPI point has moved and is now a few meters from the spot that I put it; and the Maverick is now slaved to the new spot, and so its no longer aiming at the target. In order to hit the target I have to go back to the TPOD, move the SPI back to the ground target and then go back to the Maverick to slave it to that spot and fire the missile. Moreover, sometimes when this happens I can look through the HUD and I can actually watch as the SPI point moves a few meters as I roll in. I would think that because I have created a SPI on the ground that it would stay put regardless of whether or not the view of that spot was momentarily masked by my wing. Sometimes I try to turn in using just the rudder so that the wing doesn't mask the TPOD... when I do that the SPI point stays put... however rolling in using just the rudder takes forever and it probably not the right way to do it. What am I dong wrong here?

I was flying the A10CII and trying to refuel from Texaco 1-1. I cant remember if I have Instant Select enabled....I'll look.

Thanks man... you are right, I just checked. When I'm in the cockpit Easy Communications is "OFF". I am having a problem though which was the reason I was asking about Easy Communications..., but maybe its not related to VIACOM PRO. What is happening is; I was in the Aerobatics Online server to practice Aerial Refueling, I tuned my radio to "241" and was able to talk to the tanker... however after a few comms back and forth my radio would switch to "242" and I would end up talking to a different tanker. In case Aerial refueling wasn't hard enough I kept having to tune my radio back to "241". This is probably not a VIAMCOM issue and I'll probably take this issue to another part of the forum.. but just in case... does anyone know what my problem might be?

In DCS I have Easy Communications turned off, however Viacom Pro has them "ON" when I go to the Cntrl/Alt/C screen it shows that Easy Communications is "ON". I used to have Easy Comms on, but turned it off because I no longer need it. Do you guys have any idea why I cant get Viacom pro to not use it?