Rosco Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 I've been urged to post this here for fellow DCS addicts. I got tired of taking up most of my desk with joysticks and throttles. This setup is much more comfortable and I can just slide them off in 2 seconds if needs be. If you're interested in this setup for your own desks, let me know. I have drawings of both. I've also posted a short video on YouTube.. -Rosco
CrackerJack Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Very nice work! I've made a stand out of 4" pipe but I'm not happy with it. It gets in the way. If the offer still stands I'd be interested in the drawings :-) Win 10 64-bit, Intel Core i7-7700k@4.2GHz, MSI 1080Ti , 16 GB, 500GB SSD, LG 34UM95, Acer T232HL, TrackIR 5 Pro, Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS, Saitek Combat Rudder Pedals.
FSFIan Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 I am also interested. Right now I live in a dorm room where the desk is not mine to modify, but I will be moving out of the dorms within the next few months and will have a desk I can mount things to. DCS-BIOS | How to export CMSP, RWR, etc. through MonitorSetup.lua
Rosco Posted March 3, 2015 Author Posted March 3, 2015 I'll try and post some drawings I've made to this thread a little later on tonight.
Rosco Posted March 3, 2015 Author Posted March 3, 2015 Here are the drawings for both. If you watched my video I mention how I would prefer the throttle setup to be farther down. The drawings reflect this and a couple other changes I would make if I were to build a new set. I tried to make these to scale, but there are few measurements that aren't perfect since I just kind of did a couple quick sketches. In other words, use them as a guideline and not necessarily exact. :thumbup: Other than that, hope these help! I'll be more than happy to answer any specific build questions if they come up. Cheers Rosco 1
Devrim Posted March 4, 2015 Posted March 4, 2015 Nice idea and thanks a lot for blueprints. I'd like to do that, I really need a solution like yours! Great! But... The main question is that whether my wife would let me do this or not... :\ :D I have a stylistic desk in a good quality. Probably she won't let me drill it. :) At least I can put a CD under the desk. :D Intel i7-14700@5.6GHz | MSI RTX4080 SuperSuprimX | Corsair V. 64GB@6400MHz. | Samsung 1TB 990 PRO SSD (Win10Homex64) Samsung G5 32" + Samsung 18" + 2x8"TFT Displays | TM Warthog Stick w/AVA Base | VPC MongoosT-50CM3 Throttle | TM MFD Cougars | Logitech G13, G230, G510, PZ55 & Farming Sim Panel | TIR5 & M.Quest3 VR >>MY MODS<< | Discord: Devrim#1068
doveman Posted March 4, 2015 Posted March 4, 2015 Great idea there. I imagine you could quite easily make it hinged to fold back under the desk when you're not flying and need to sit nearer to the desk to work, to avoid hitting your chair/junk on it Probably a pair of strong magnets on the base and under the desk would hold it in place, otherwise a clip shouldn't be to hard to fashion. Main rig: i5-4670k @4.4Ghz, Asus Z97-A, Scythe Kotetsu HSF, 32GB Kingston Savage 2400Mhz DDR3, 1070ti, Win 10 x64, Samsung Evo 256GB SSD (OS & Data), OCZ 480GB SSD (Games), WD 2TB and WD 3TB HDDs, 1920x1200 Dell U2412M, 1920x1080 Dell P2314T touchscreen
tacky_taco Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 What a great idea! I'll be doing this before the summer is over
TomOnSteam Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 For people like me with no workmanship skills or tools - 4 metal angle brackets in an S shape and you can do something similar for a few bucks. Of course it doesn't look as slick though! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cockpit Spectator Mode
Nevyn Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 Clever OP. Mmmmm, time to come up with a cunning plan like this for myself I reckon.
WildBillKelsoe Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Great ideas. Thanks for sharing. I especially liked the kneeboard idea. AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.
mondaysoff Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) I've been urged to post this here for fellow DCS addicts. I got tired of taking up most of my desk with joysticks and throttles. This setup is much more comfortable and I can just slide them off in 2 seconds if needs be. If you're interested in this setup for your own desks, let me know. I have drawings of both. Thank you Rosco for posting your ideas and giving me the inspiration to do something interesting with my TMWH.. The throttle slide took me about 3 days to make, about three hours each day including painting and an awful lot of head scratching, your drawings helped a lot. I'm not going to copy your joystick setup, but rather try and make something where the pedals and joystick are attached to a base board and I will probably purchase an extension for the stick, probably around the10cm mark, as I fly heli's mainly.. As you can see from the pictures it is still early days, cables and wires everywhere. I think I have sussed out how the TIR cables will run, basically everything under the desk. My only head scratcher at the moment is the keyboard, running out of room underneath, hopefully with the new TMWH I won't need to use it much anyways. Will post more pics when complete. Edited July 22, 2015 by mondaysoff duplicate images
TomOnSteam Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 I think there would be a lot of interest in selling these as a ready made product that you can attach to a desk. (or a kit with some tool-less assembly) I mean I bought an Obutto cockpit because I didn't have the tools, time, space and skills to make even an ugly version. I guess some people wouldn't want to permanently modify their desks, so it would be good to have clamping version too. I think it could save some relationships by having an easily removable and attachable set up haha :) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cockpit Spectator Mode
mondaysoff Posted July 22, 2015 Posted July 22, 2015 OK, pedal and stick floor mount now complete. I have really enjoyed making this setup, and what's best is, it hasn't cost me a fortune, I paid about £20 for the black plastic pipe and fittings, and £40 for a 10cm Warthog extension from Wasy100, everything else has been scrounged from around the house, garage and attic, I very rarely throw anything away. I used 12mm MDF board for the throttle slide and 12mm chipboard for the floor mount, all nuts, bolts, screws and washers collected over the years, already had the grey and black paint, the under board supports are unused cupboard feet from an IKEA furniture pack, which I might add grip the carpet like glue. Now all I have to do is learn to adjust from Desktop control to a more real life situation, before this setup I used a Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X, (which will be up for sale soon) so the Warthog is a brand new experience for me, as soon as I received the Warthog in the post, it was being measured up for this setup, so has not been used in DCS yet. I have had the MFG’s for about six months, so I am used to them now, I have never had pedals before, so I jumped straight in with the Crosswind’s. IMO these two devices, although extremely expensive, are a match made in heaven, I know just sitting here with my feet on the pedals, right hand on the stick (extension included) and left hand on the throttle, I just know MY DCS experience is going to increase 10 fold. Once again, without Rosco’s imagination and pictures I would probably still be playing from the desktop. My apologies for the sideways pictures, I must be doing something wrong, they are the correct way up before I upload them. Many thanks. 1
cichlidfan Posted July 22, 2015 Posted July 22, 2015 Very nicely done! :thumbup: ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:
mondaysoff Posted August 8, 2015 Posted August 8, 2015 Very nicely done! :thumbup: Thank you cichlidfan for your +rep, have only just noticed. I can't stress enough how much more smoother and accurate flying is with this setup, including using the warthog extension. I didn't think I could enjoy DCS anymore than I already did. Thanks again Rosco for showing your design.
Solway Posted August 14, 2015 Posted August 14, 2015 OK, pedal and stick floor mount now complete. I have really enjoyed making this setup, and what's best is, it hasn't cost me a fortune, I paid about £20 for the black plastic pipe and fittings, and £40 for a 10cm Warthog extension from Wasy100, everything else has been scrounged from around the house, garage and attic, I very rarely throw anything away. I used 12mm MDF board for the throttle slide and 12mm chipboard for the floor mount, all nuts, bolts, screws and washers collected over the years, already had the grey and black paint, the under board supports are unused cupboard feet from an IKEA furniture pack, which I might add grip the carpet like glue. Perfect, simple and comfy. Pls show in detail how did you attach the stick to the pipe and the pipe to the chipboard. Thank you in advance. Win10 / I7-4790K 4.6GHz / Z97X / GTX 1080Ti / 32 Gb / SSD Samsung 860 Pro 2Tb+HDD WD 2Tb/ 40" 4K Philips BDM4065UC / TrackIR 5 / VPC MongoosT-50CM2 Flightstick (pitch: soft center cam, stiff spring / roll: hard center cam, stiff spring) + VPC Extension 200mm (S-shaped)/ VPC MongoosT-50CM3 Throttle with Aerobatics Detents/ VPC Control Panel #1 / VPC Ace Flight Rudder Pedals [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Rogue Trooper Posted August 14, 2015 Posted August 14, 2015 Very nicely done mondaysoff. It looks superb. HP G2 Reverb (Needs upgrading), Windows 10 VR settings: IPD is 64.5mm, High image quality, G2 reset to 60Hz refresh rate. set to OpenXR, but Open XR tool kit disabled. DCS: Pixel Density 1.0, Forced IPD at 55 (perceived world size), DLSS setting is quality at 1.0. VR Driver system: I9-9900KS 5Ghz CPU. XI Hero motherboard and RTX 3090 graphics card, 64 gigs Ram, No OC... Everything needs upgrading in this system!. Vaicom user and what a superb freebie it is! Virpil Mongoose T50M3 base & Mongoose CM2 Grip (not set for dead stick), Virpil TCS collective with counterbalance kit (woof woof). Virpil Apache Grip (OMG). MFG pedals with damper upgrade. Total controls Apache MPDs set to virtual Reality height. Simshaker Jet Pro vibration seat.. Uses data from DCS not sound... goodbye VRS.
mondaysoff Posted August 15, 2015 Posted August 15, 2015 (edited) Perfect, simple and comfy. Pls show in detail how did you attach the stick to the pipe and the pipe to the chipboard. Thank you in advance. With the pipe section you have two blanking caps, one double pipe connector and a 1 metre length of single socket soil pipe, all 120mm. This was all purchased from Screwfix.com. For the base blanking end cap, once you have found your comfortable position (distance from pedals and stick) you can drill your holes through the blanking cap the size of your bolts, I did four. Then place in position on the base board and drill through the wood, fix to the board using desired nuts, bolts and washers. This is now ready to accept the double connector fitting, once in place you can to stop this section from turning inside the joint (It didn’t with mine, a very snug/tight fit) by making a pilot hole and using 20mm self tapping screws to secure, I did five around the base and five at the top where the WH meets the top blanking cap. I didn’t use glue just incase of any future adjustments were required. Now you can insert your 1 mtr piece of soil pipe into the double connector, you will need to cut this piece to your desired length, always cut the bottom end, the narrower end, the wider end, the top will take your other blanking cap with the WH attached. Once your desired length is achieved you can now fix this in place with more self tapping screws if you wish, to the top section of the double connector joint (I didn’t, because I found it quite solid enough). The blanking cap is the perfect diameter for the base of the Warthog stick to sit on and is roughly the same thickness as the original steel square base, so the screws can be reused. To mount the cap to the Warthog stick you will first require a piece of tracing paper ( haven't used that since primary school days), remove the metal base from the stick and place the tracing paper over the holes of the metal base and mark with a pencil, be careful not to move the paper whilst doing this. When you have your pencil marks, get a ruler and draw two straight lines from the top and bottom holes and the same for left and right holes, that should give you a centre point. There is a small centre point marking on the blanking caps to match up with your tracing, best to sellotape this in place and drill the holes, just make pilot holes for this end the screws will self tape into the plastic and make for a sturdier fit. Before securing with self tappers and if you are not using an extension, place the WH into the pipe and adjust for comfort, then secure. Thanks for your interest and I hope this explanation helps. Edited August 15, 2015 by mondaysoff 1
mondaysoff Posted August 15, 2015 Posted August 15, 2015 Pictures for post #20 I'll get the hang of this one day.
hansangb Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Great job guys. Starting to build one myself. these will really come in handy! hsb HW Spec in Spoiler --- i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1
andrewwong2000 Posted May 21, 2016 Posted May 21, 2016 Thanks for the inspiration ! I went down to my local hardware store and use some 4.5mm thick shelf brackets.. Then bent the S-shape into it so I could mount the joysticks and throttle. I recommend using Sail Track if you want to slide the shelf bracket under the desk. I can completely remove the throttle and joystick if need be. Now just to make it look nice and weld a brace so it's rigid. As the bracket is not braced, it does wobble a little bit - not very noticeable in game. Thanks! Andrew
Gpruitt54 Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Is there a thread where people can display their DIY flight desk or full dedicated flight sim pit setups? If such a thread does not exist, maybe one should be started. The design ideas would be great for those considering building a desk or full pit setup.
hansangb Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 For pit setups, there is a sub-thread here for Cockpit builds. ED Forums » English » Sim Topics » Input and Output » Home Cockpits hsb HW Spec in Spoiler --- i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1
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