My Saitek Combat rudder pedal's toe brake is dead

[SCU]

It's been sorta fine for about 11 months now, but yesterday I noticed in game after starting up and taxiing the aircraft turns left and found that the left toe brake registering full deflection. It worked again briefly then died again. Now I can't get it to work, it doesn't sense any physical input from me (Edit: it still shows full deflection). What could be the problem and how can I solve it?

Thanks in advance to any help :).

Edited April 15, 2016 by SCU

[funkyfranky]

I got a similar problem with my Saitek combat rudder pedals. Left toe brake is broken. I don't get any deflection though if I press the brake. Also happened when they were about a year old. I think they are just bad quality.

Is the problem appearing only when you run DCS or a general failure?

Did you try to invert the axis or disable it so that you can at least roll normally?

 

I just mapped the right toe brake to both (left+right) brakes in most aircrafts. Got no better solution so far.

[SCU]

I thought about this solution too, but I'm hoping first that I can repair this problem if I can.. I just need to know how. If not I'll just have to make do, until the other one gets fubar'd too :P.

Oh and the issue is general, the calibration panel shows full input and no response at all.

[Nooch]

Same. I had to replace it with my current CH pro pedals.

[jcbak]

I had the exact issue with my Saitek Combat pedals. I eventually had two potentiometers go bad. I gave up on them and ordered the MFG Crosswinds.....great pedals.

[1.JaVA_Platypus]

Check wiring first. Maybe you can clean the pots. (Look for tutorials on youtube) If this doesn't work, replace them. Some minor soldering skills may be required.

[SCU]

I've searched for video instructions for this rudder pedals, not found any so far. There are a few images here and there but I haven't found anything that can help in my problem so far. Can you please be kind to link to some instructions? Thanks for the help :).

[Sokol1_br]

If you have basic electricity knowledge (diferentiate+ to - wires) :)

some basic tools including solder iron, a multimeter to check wires continuity... you can try repair.

 

To open the pedal see the "secret" in this thread:

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=160247&highlight=polyshine

 

The bad news, replace pot is easy - if fill the above preconditions - but find "joystick pot'" (see what is this in the above link) near impossible...

 

Are other options (HALL sensor, magnet resistor sensor...), include replace all internal guts, but require more DIY skill. So, if money is no problem and is easy buy a new, is the "easy way". ;)

Edited April 15, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[SCU]

Cheers for the link, I'll have a look and give it a try within the next few days.

[fitness88]

This would be a good place to ask about pedals. I have Saitek X52 Pro HOTAS and have been looking around for pedals...Saitek pedals, because I've been happy with the HOTAS. Is this a bad idea, can I get some recommendations please as I've never used pedals and am not even sure I would appreciate them.

 

Thank you.

[Headwarp]

Saitek pedals/ch pedals are plastic. Personally... i completely snapped the right pedal off the base of my Saitek Proflight pedals, mostly just from being retarded and stretching my legs. They will do the job if you're careful with them...but beware jittery potentiometers, and them being downright noisey (downstairs neighbors might not like you.) The pots can be cleaned but it takes disassembling the pedal assembly.. and you need to be careful unscrewing screws as the things are just plastic. Doing so may void any warrenty

 

While more expensive, Slaw Device, VKB T-rudders (no toebrakes), or MFG Crosswinds (mine showed up today and blow saitek/ch out of the water). Slaw/crosswinds come with a bit of a wait but use hall sensors. If you're looking to spend $200 or less for something that just works.. I'd personally recommend CH because I don't hear many complaints about any of their products where as Saitek has some known quality issues that i've experienced first hand with more than just my pedals.. that being said the saitek pedals will probably have a wider stance. If you've got anywhere from $300-$500 to spend and don't mind a long wait MFG Crosswinds/Slaw device might be the way to go. Slaw device is metal.. likely durable.. Crosswinds composite.. I think mine will still be functional a decade and more from now.

 

Any of the 3 more expensive sets will have greater accuracy and a smoother turn radius than the plastic stuff, but again, my saiteks were doing the job before i broke them.. even if the toe brakes were really jittery/spikey and offered nowhere near the smoothness of Milan's beautiful Crosswinds.

 

If you're ok with your twist stick, no you don't NEED rudders.. you can still fly pretty much anything with a twist stick.. what you bring to the table with rudder pedals, even saitek/ch pedals is added accuracy and precision. Twist stick is generally a smaller axis, or at least the method for turning is smaller, making small precise movements more difficult than they would be with any set of pedals, in the same way an extension on an xbox controller "adds to accuracy" by causing larger ranges of motion from your thumb to be smaller control inputs. If you plan on flight simming a lot as a hobby, pedals are immersive, and easier to fly with. If you only do it from time to time and spending $120 or more is a strain on you, you might be able to live without them.. either way don't expect to immediately be an expert with them if you purchase them, but you will get more control than you would a twist stick. And certain planes take advantage of having toe brakes on an axes.

Edited April 16, 2016 by Headwarp

[fitness88]

Saitek pedals/ch pedals are plastic. Personally... i completely snapped the right pedal off the base of my Saitek Proflight pedals, mostly just from being retarded and stretching my legs. They will do the job if you're careful with them...but beware jittery potentiometers, and them being downright noisey (downstairs neighbors might not like you.) The pots can be cleaned but it takes disassembling the pedal assembly.. and you need to be careful unscrewing screws as the things are just plastic. Doing so may void any warrenty

 

While more expensive, Slaw Device, VKB T-rudders (no toebrakes), or MFG Crosswinds (mine showed up today and blow saitek/ch out of the water). Slaw/crosswinds come with a bit of a wait but use hall sensors. If you're looking to spend $200 or less for something that just works.. I'd personally recommend CH because I don't hear many complaints about any of their products where as Saitek has some known quality issues that i've experienced first hand with more than just my pedals.. that being said the saitek pedals will probably have a wider stance. If you've got anywhere from $300-$500 to spend and don't mind a long wait MFG Crosswinds/Slaw device might be the way to go. Slaw device is metal.. likely durable.. Crosswinds composite.. I think mine will still be functional a decade and more from now.

 

Any of the 3 more expensive sets will have greater accuracy and a smoother turn radius than the plastic stuff, but again, my saiteks were doing the job before i broke them.. even if the toe brakes were really jittery/spikey and offered nowhere near the smoothness of Milan's beautiful Crosswinds.

 

If you're ok with your twist stick, no you don't NEED rudders.. you can still fly pretty much anything with a twist stick.. what you bring to the table with rudder pedals, even saitek/ch pedals is added accuracy and precision. Twist stick is generally a smaller axis, or at least the method for turning is smaller, making small precise movements more difficult than they would be with any set of pedals, in the same way an extension on an xbox controller "adds to accuracy" by causing larger ranges of motion from your thumb to be smaller control inputs. If you plan on flight simming a lot as a hobby, pedals are immersive, and easier to fly with. If you only do it from time to time and spending $120 or more is a strain on you, you might be able to live without them.. either way don't expect to immediately be an expert with them if you purchase them, but you will get more control than you would a twist stick. And certain planes take advantage of having toe brakes on an axes.

 

Thank you very much for all this information, it really helps me.

I was talking today to a sim retailer and was told Saitek is behind in production/delivery. Also the combat pedals which where more durable have been discontinued and now only the Cessna and pro pedals remain.

A plus using Saitek pedals I probably would be able to use the same profile software as I use with the X52 Pro.

Edited April 16, 2016 by fitness88

[Sokol1_br]

Also the combat pedals which where more durable have been discontinued and now only the Cessna and pro pedals remain.

 

Only the foot rest of Combat model is more "durable" - is aluminum - the rest including potentiometers (the Achilles Hell) is common to all Saitek rudder models.

 

For ~220$ you can buy this.

Edited April 16, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[hannibal]

CH pedals dont get any love? :(

[Sokol1_br]

Old, ugly design and obsolete - 8 bits - electronics. :D

 

But far better construction quality than Saitek.

 

E.g. Saitek sliders is plastic over plastic, CH slider is steel rods over plastic.

[fitness88]

Only the foot rest of Combat model is more "durable" - is aluminum - the rest including potentiometers (the Achilles Hell) is common to all Saitek rudder models.

 

For ~220$ you can buy this.

 

Thanks good to know!

[Ramstein]

I think everyone had their Saitek pedals go tits up.. the plastic is horribly cheap, it breaks, Saitek turned to garbage and everyone is bailing... CH pedals replaced mine and when I get some money, the Saitek stick will be gone too. Saitek could not take the time to release final drivers for Win10 either. pure b.s... IMHO I had Saitek for 15 years. Never again..

[SCU]

Agreed bro, I have my eyes set on crosswind rudders, when I get me some cash I'll send it on the way of the Croatian genius ;).

[Headwarp]

CH pedals dont get any love? :(

 

I gave them some love. I recommended them for what's widely available and affordable even though I have no experience with them. Reason being - I not seen too many complaints about them aside from how narrow they are.

 

Oh...and there's always Go Flight, but that was out my price range,

[Headwarp]

Agreed bro, I have my eyes set on crosswind rudders, when I get me some cash I'll send it on the way of the Croatian genius ;).

 

It's like a 3-4 month wait time once you place the order and he doesn't bill you until it's ready to ship. The wait drove me crazy but only because I didn't have much else for rudder input at the time. If you look at the MFG review thread still on the first page you can see it seems like he's pretty busy making these things based on the serial numbers.

[aaron886]

Same problem, I've had this TWICE. Saitek's quality is piss-poor. I'll never buy from them again, but I will buy these:

 

[Farlander]

Had that happen to me too :P just had to contact saitek and they sent a new pair, no trouble there.

[Vlerkies]

I managed to fix mine, same toe brake issue, with a good clean of the pot a few months ago.

 

Bit the bullet at the same time and ordered some MFG Crosswinds, which should ship this month.

[Hadwell]

I had that problem with my pedals too, turns out the pivot thing sliced right through one of the wires, so I just spliced on a new piece and soldered it, then hot glued the wire where it won't get run over again.

[SCU]

Had that happen to me too :P just had to contact saitek and they sent a new pair, no trouble there.

 

I already opened up mine, both the pedal itself, cleaning the pot, and the lower board with the 20 screws. Probably my warranty is void now.