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Posted
Trigger, its time for my "every 50 replies" reply:

 

You are crazy, rep inbound!

 

PS: Your friend is a helicopter?

 

Totally agree with you Groove he is Crazy :hehe: ...... Finally the long term effects of being in our squadron are showing:megalol:

Posted (edited)

Update Pitbuilding - 21. October 2008 - Assembly Drawing, Pedals and HUD

 

:angel:... Thank you guys..! It's really cool of you to give positive feedback like you do.. It brings my motivation level back right where it should be.. !

 

First up I put the drawings of what I have finished building so far together.. Just to see how it looks so far:

frontpedestalassembly03al5.jpg

frontpedestalassembly04kq0.jpg

HUD is courtesy of Wasserfall's beautfull drawings.. Thanx Mate..! Your drawings did the trick for me..! It is build of 3mm Polypropylene plates used for making signes and decorations on shops. I got a plate from a local signmaking industry here at home.. Drawings will be posted when finishing touches are done.

 

Now the whole assembly:

cockpitassembly02hh8.jpg

.... Don't I look GOOD!!:music_whistling:

 

cockpitassembly03ob6.jpg

 

cockpitassembly04yp2.jpg

 

PEDALS..PEDALS.. PEDALS..!

 

Now todays quiz..! In all helicopters I have sat in I have noticed that the pedals pivot around the point that the heel of your foot touch the floor.. Like this:

 

716k0318st4.jpg

 

But the KA-50 seems to have the type of pedals that most fixed wings have..? You know the kind where you slide your feet in a linear motion..?

 

Well to be sure have a look at this picture:

linearorpivotingpedalskh3.jpg

 

Now, knowing that helicopter pilots rearly fly with the pedals centered it became quite clear to me that I was in for some serious cramp after a while.! And however much I scaled up the pictures I had where you got a glimpse of the KA-50's pedals it still puzzles me..!

 

I want to go for the pivoting type pedals, but not if there is a reason for why Kamov have chosen the other linear type?

 

So far I have made the foot-pedals for the linear type:

footpedal01xm0.jpg

 

With the holders for ball-bearings just in case I choose to go this way. (Naturally the front of it will have a 2mm Aluminum plate where my feet rest, and a bit of filler and paint is also yet to be added)

 

 

Feedback guys..! I need feedback..!

 

:music_whistling:.. HPO.. I also need your input on the springloading for the Cannon trigger? I am out of ideas my friend.. I NEED YOU..!

Edited by Triggerhappy69
  • Like 2

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

Damn, mate that's awesome work, respect!!!!

 

Yes and i like the hud:)

 

And now from virtual to reality:)

 

Cheers!!!!

 

Wasserfall

Intel Core i5-9600K, Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO, 16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 WINDFORCE 8G

Posted

Usannsynlig kult, Trigger!!!

 

Insanely cool stuff! You plan on serial-production of the pit? :P I know of at least a few others frequenting the norwegian flightsim-community that has been drooling over Black Shark for a few years, and I've thrown the link to this thread to them as well. Their reaction can only be categorized as *drool*

 

Rep inbound!

Regards

Fjordmonkey

Clustermunitions is just another way of saying that you don't like someone.

 

I used to like people, then people ruined that for me.

Posted (edited)

Hay bud ben a wile for me to add input.

 

So for the triger that flips up for weapons and activate the gun If I am right is what you are after.?

Think of how a engen works. take the top of the piston and make it a fixt point. (Stay with me:D) the connecting rod is the spring and the crank is the triger. Now the crank/trigger can only travel 180 moving away from the fixed piston point. The spring will be pulling on both sides as when you flip the triger away from the fixed end of the spring it will pull till it passes TDC now pulling it from the other side. A small spring like that ofa ballpoint pin will work verry well and is easy to hide. let me know what you think. or if I need to scech somthing for ya :smilewink:

 

All looking good

 

Edit: If that does not work for you I have another idea.

Edited by CAT_101st

Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR.

 

https://digitalcombatmercenaries.enjin.com/

Posted
:angel:... Thank you guys..! It's really cool of you to give positive feedback like you do.. It brings my motivation level back right where it should be.. !

 

 

Now, knowing that helicopter pilots rearly fly with the pedals centered it became quite clear to me that I was in for some serious cramp after a while.! And however much I scaled up the pictures I had where you got a glimpse of the KA-50's pedals it still puzzles me..!

 

I want to go for the pivoting type pedals, but not if there is a reason for why Kamov have chosen the other linear type?

 

Can't say for sure if I right with my thoughts:

 

1. The easiest explanation : Kamow had them just lying around and it worked (something that happens quiet often to me :) )

2. and more serious meant:

As the KA-50 has no Tail rotor and it behaves more like a plane at higher speed , take also the big fine at the tail in. So the pilot has to 'step in' more than on a helicopter with tail rotor. Because he moves not only the pitch of a tail rotor -he moves a whole surface with its whole aerodynamic resistance. Something that is much more difficult to control with conventional 'anti torque paddles'. So it's quite obvious why the KA-50 has "rudder-paddles" and not "anti-torque-paddles"

 

Hope that explanation helps a little.

Posted

hi all.....

is it possible to tell me the dimensions of the cockpit and each wall???

also the dimensions of every panel?

i bought the switches and their guards and want to cut the wood now

thanks in advance

stelios

Posted
hi all.....

is it possible to tell me the dimensions of the cockpit and each wall???

also the dimensions of every panel?

i bought the switches and their guards and want to cut the wood now

thanks in advance

stelios

 

PM me your e-mail adress and I'll send over drawings of what I have so far mate...:thumbup:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted
Damn, mate that's awesome work, respect!!!!

 

Yes and i like the hud:)

 

And now from virtual to reality:)

 

Cheers!!!!

 

Wasserfall

 

 

Well I have already made one attempt on building the HUD.. And scratched it..!

 

Since I'm building it out of 3mm plastic foam sheets I need to make structuraly more rigid.. But first I have to complete the drawings.. It's at times like this I really see the workmanship you put in to make your HUD as PERFECT as it is mate.. May hat of for you:thumbup:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted
Usannsynlig kult, Trigger!!!

 

Insanely cool stuff! You plan on serial-production of the pit? :P I know of at least a few others frequenting the norwegian flightsim-community that has been drooling over Black Shark for a few years, and I've thrown the link to this thread to them as well. Their reaction can only be categorized as *drool*

 

Rep inbound!

 

Phuuuh..! Hold your horses mate..!:cry:

Maybe.. and only MAYBE after I have have completed my own. And so far it looks like the whole cockpit timeline ends in a year or two..

 

Where are my fellow countrymens and pitbuilders place of gathering.? I'd really like to get in touch with you guys.?

 

Ps. Tusen takk.. (rødmer litt)

 

Hay bud ben a wile for me to add input.

 

So for the triger that flips up for weapons and activate the gun If I am right is what you are after.?

Think of how a engen works. take the top of the piston and make it a fixt point. (Stay with me:D) the connecting rod is the spring and the crank is the triger. Now the crank/trigger can only travel 180 moving away from the fixed piston point. The spring will be pulling on both sides as when you flip the triger away from the fixed end of the spring it will pull till it passes TDC now pulling it from the other side. A small spring like that ofa ballpoint pin will work verry well and is easy to hide. let me know what you think. or if I need to scech somthing for ya :smilewink:

 

All looking good

 

Edit: If that does not work for you I have another idea.

 

CAT..!? Where have you been my friend..?:cry:

Well ...? I have read through and think I get your point..? But it would be much easyer if you posted a scetch or something? 'Cause I'm only almost sure I get it.?:doh:

 

Can't say for sure if I right with my thoughts:

 

1. The easiest explanation : Kamow had them just lying around and it worked (something that happens quiet often to me :) )

2. and more serious meant:

As the KA-50 has no Tail rotor and it behaves more like a plane at higher speed , take also the big fine at the tail in. So the pilot has to 'step in' more than on a helicopter with tail rotor. Because he moves not only the pitch of a tail rotor -he moves a whole surface with its whole aerodynamic resistance. Something that is much more difficult to control with conventional 'anti torque paddles'. So it's quite obvious why the KA-50 has "rudder-paddles" and not "anti-torque-paddles"

 

Hope that explanation helps a little.

 

Thank god for you Urze..! You do actually have a really good point with the Ka-50 using a combined torque-yaw and yaw-rudder..!

And with this it would require the abillity to add some "foot-power" from time to time..?

 

I was actually about to alter the drawings for my pedals:music_whistling:, and you stopped me just in time..! Thank you.. :)

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

CNC Mill Update - 2. november 2008

 

Finally found the right belt-drives for the X and Y Axis Steppers:

cncbenchtopmill51ej6.jpg

cncbenchtopmill53zt1.jpg

cncbenchtopmill54rs2.jpg

 

And made the new Zero-Backlash nuts. I discarded the original threaded rods that was supplied with the XY-Table. mainly because I have no idea what the climb in the threads is, and also I wanted an 8mm axle not 10mm like it was originally.

But most important was the fact that the original nuts had no way to remove the play that wear and tear innevetably wil make as time goes by.. So I made my own:

cncbenchtopmill52uv0.jpg

cncbenchtopmill55jw2.jpg

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

KA-50 Pitbuilding Update - 2. november 2008 - New Yaw Pedals

 

Just some pics of the Yaw Pedals with the new Alu Fronts..

 

ka50yawpedalbuilding13ct8.jpg

ka50yawpedalbuilding14tk0.jpg

 

The Aluminum was cut out from a scrap piece of Engine Cover I got from a friend of mine.. I have no idea what it's actually for..:cry:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

Ka-50 Pitbuilding Update - 2. november 2008 - Collective Breakout board

 

Well.. I have been dreading this breakout board for long now..

 

Mainly because I knew that when I started this I also had to start making a list where I can re-trace all the cables for the whole Pit.. And this soundes like such a drag, plus I had no idea if I should make an Excel sheet, or just draw it all by hand or.. or...

 

But now that ED have been kind enough to release the commands as an Excel Sheet so I that I can use this as a template I needed to get started..

 

Only to find that naturally I was out of etching fliud :doh:..!

 

Well break out the good old test boards and get to work..!

ka50collectivestick88kc3.jpg

 

ka50collectivestick87uw7.jpg

 

As you can see I have decided to run all the cables to the IO Cards in bunts of ten.. First of all because I have access to as much of this cable as I need, and also finding a faulty connection in a ten-lead cable is more easy than in a 50 lead IDE-type cable..

 

I have two LED's on the breakout board. One that lights up to indicate that the Collective Mechanics 5 Volt supply is on, and a simular for the 12 Volt.

 

Since I will be using Hall-Effect Sencors for the Collective Stick I need a seperate 5 Volt supply. And the 12 Volt is for the light and fans on the Left Rear Wall (See picture)..

cockpitassembly02hh8.jpg

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

Here is what I have came up with another idea as well. Not as good as you would do but all I got. hope this helps.

 

triger%20springs.JPG

Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR.

 

https://digitalcombatmercenaries.enjin.com/

Posted
Here is what I have came up with another idea as well. Not as good as you would do but all I got. hope this helps.

 

triger%20springs.JPG

 

 

I like the idea on the right hand side..!:thumbup:

 

Is this what you had in mind?

triggermechanismhowitwoih9.jpgtriggermechanismhowitwowj6.jpg

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted
why i cant see the pictures of the first posts ?

second may i ask what are the interface cards are you gonna use?

I am thinking of buying the cards from the

http://www.opencockpits.com

thanks in advance

stelios from GREECE

 

 

Aaaah.. My bad..! I had to delete them from my forum folder becuase the pics were filling up all the space.. I'll try and remember to upload them to Imageshack and re-post them..

 

As far as Opencockpits goes, I have nothing but nice things to say about the products and the competance level of the users.. They are not the simplest IOCards available (my oppinion), but they seem really adaptable! And they keep developing new cards as new needs arise.. :thumbup:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

thanks.....

so i will place an order from the opencockpits....and i will wait for your help

thanks again my friend

stelios

 

Ps in the meantime i will make some experiments with the stepper motors in order to make them turn.....at least

Posted
I like the idea on the right hand side..!:thumbup:

 

Is this what you had in mind?

triggermechanismhowitwoih9.jpgtriggermechanismhowitwowj6.jpg

 

Nice :),....and what if you put an extra "piece" below the axle, like the picture below, then you also have a return spring for the trigger.

 

triggermechanismhowitwowj6_02.jpg

Posted (edited)

I have'nt been idle..

 

I just haven't had time to post a good update.. But here are some pics:

 

cncbenchtopmill56mj1.jpg

 

Got some bigger stepper motors by looking for old photocopiers on the local garbage disposal site.. (compare it to the one I was going to use... yeah right.. The small one)

 

cncbenchtopmill57hx0.jpg

 

The powersupply came out of an old Akai amplifier.. It should give me enough "juice"..?

 

cncbenchtopmill58py7.jpg

 

And the replacements for the motor controller chips I blew have ariveed, and been soldered in place..

 

ka50yawpedalbuilding13ct8.jpg

 

ka50yawpedalbuilding151qt5.jpg

 

Pedals nearing completion.. (Thanks Urze for the excellent advice..:thumbup:)

More indepth on them later..

 

I think they came out quite like the originals judging from the picture I had:

far98agka50cpt02zb2.jpg

 

ka50collectivestickdampkc1.jpg

 

My new Hydrailic Collective setup made up from dirt-cheap DIY dampeners. They are actually made for dampening doors, and I opened them up and removed the spring inside.. (and a little more)..

And the Collective brake handle will shut of a valve that control the oil running from one dampener to the other. That way I get the right "feel", and the Collective Stick does not move a millimeter when it's released..

Again more on this later..

 

But here is a little clue how I did it..

diyoildampener8jv8.jpg

 

diyoildampener10pl0.jpg

 

All these modifications are quite easy to make, but it takes a while for me to make a simple and understandable "how To" for you guys.. So please be patient with me..?

 

Also coming is.. The testing of the Collective switches and a new Main Front Panel is assembled.. It's all starting to come together.. I can't wait to play with it.. C",)

Edited by Triggerhappy69

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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