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Deadman's A-10 C Cockpit Build


Deadman

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Thanks I have most of the left and right counsel knobs all ready test casted. I am just waiting on the paint to cure on the large canopy defog on the environmental panel then i will cast all three knobs defog, flow level, and temp level all in the same mold to be cast in the clear resin.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Deadman

 

Are the screws for the knobs going to be included?

How do the screws hold? I mean they aren't threading into anything except the acrylic - so won't they come loose?

 

They look really good -

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At the minimum you need one larger hole for the 1/8" or 1/4" thick pot or encoder. For the smaller hole you need to use set screw. If your pot or encoder is flatted on one side it'd hold against the set screw better. Sometimes the knob may jiggle a bit esp if the larger hole is too big. For both holes it's best to drill the appropriate size and enlarge them slowly if too tight. Once it's too big then it'd not hold well.

 

The most secure way is to drill two small holes with two set screws. With two set screws pushing against the pot or encoder shaft it should be very tight and secure, unless the small or larger hole is too big. I've been able to secure many knobs securely this way without any jiggles.

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Deadman

 

Are the screws for the knobs going to be included?

How do the screws hold? I mean they aren't threading into anything except the acrylic - so won't they come loose?

 

They look really good -

 

No I ran a poll people did not want the holes drill taped or screws in the knobs.http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=81429

 

Most of the knobs have two Allen screw used in them to distribute the force. Most people will use light rotaries so I don't foresee tremendous torque on the knobs. The material I am using has a shore hardness of 82 D so I think it will work very well

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Deadman,

on the odd chance you still need this converted I have the software that turns images into indexable pdf files. It is Abbey Fine Reader 11. It is expensive but I will convert the docs for you if email them to me. It takes alot of time to convert but It isnt hands on. Just give it the files and it goes.

Frank

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Hi Thanks for the offer but I am confused as to what you think I need made in to PDF files ,and why?

 

Deadman,

on the odd chance you still need this converted I have the software that turns images into indexable pdf files. It is Abbey Fine Reader 11. It is expensive but I will convert the docs for you if email them to me. It takes alot of time to convert but It isnt hands on. Just give it the files and it goes.

Frank

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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I have no Idea what your talking about here. If your asking for blue prints on the panels. I have not drawn any up these are real panels I have collected over the last few years.

 

Deadman,

Are there any pdfs on here that show dimensions of L and W? Or is it just print to scale and template the printout?

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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fredd3039 I took these pictures to show people that the knob replicas that i am making are true replicas and not just for function. If you are going to make a replica cockpit you should go to the for sale thread or contact me on how to purchase a set.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Thanks deadman, very interesting with the CDU. it shows how high the buttons really sit and I did not know that the white sripe sectioning off the numeric and alpha keypads is a raised section.

 

Not that I will be changing mine to replicate this right now but very interesting to see it.

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No I was going to use this by hand http://www.micromark.com/microlux-tapping-fixture,8363.html

The same company has Taps and Dies in micro miniature sizes for the set screws

 

If you really want to go with a Drill press I would go with a Delta good reviews and it is about the same cost

 

Excellent and helpful pictures Deadman - Thank you.

 

I am putting together the tools I'll need in my workshop for drilling the holes in the knobs - would this drill press be a good choice for this type of work?

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/stationary-drill-press/5-speed-drill-press-38119.html

 

5 speeds, between 620 and 3100 RPM


Edited by Deadman

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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There are quite a few differences from font,font sizes to the lay out of the white strip to the thickness of your panel and square corners It appears to be a very accurate representation of one the of the CDU from DCS 's cockpit

 

Good luck making yours. How did your AN/ARC 186 Radio panel turn out?

 

Thanks deadman, very interesting with the CDU. it shows how high the buttons really sit and I did not know that the white sripe sectioning off the numeric and alpha keypads is a raised section.

 

Not that I will be changing mine to replicate this right now but very interesting to see it.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Thanks Amigo :thumbup:

Jezus christ DM! If you get all this to work all you need to do is get hold of some engines and you got yourself a DIY A-10! EXCELLENT stuff!

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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What I have told you guys I have a few Panels :smilewink: Well Flim if you hunt for parts long enough you get a break sooner or later mine came later. What I really need is the EWMU or CMSP panel, the AAP, the Utility and arms ground safety override panel, and a few fillers. I have a design for the Main instrument panel I just have not been able to afford to get it cut on a CNC router paint it then mold and cast it .But youu can only do what ya can LOL

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Knob Tutorial

 

OK here is a slightly damaged knob. Wash the knobs first with an all purpose cleaner to remove any release agent that may still be on the knobs if you don't the paint will not stick.

IMG_3663.jpg

I will uses this Type of paint have on hand it will bond to the knob. Normally I paint then let the knob dry for 24 to 72 hours then re coat .There are several paints that will stick to plastics. These are satin finish usually after the knobs are dried. I will give them a light coat of Krylon Matte finish 1311 to seal them all. So if you find a gloss or satin finish in just the right shade you like then you can turn it in to a matte finish. and give the knob an extra layer of protection.

IMG_3664.jpg

 

Several light coats give an even layer of paint let it dry as recommended by the manufacture.

IMG_3666.jpg

 

Now after a day or two we will need a few things the next color of paint

A bit of modeling clay an Xacto knife q-tips /cotton swabs,and a wooden tooth pick.

IMG_3668.jpg

Take the Xacto knife and with a bit of clay on the blade gently press the clay in to the recessed arrow that we want to stay white.

IMG_3669.jpg

IMG_3670.jpg

 

Now you will want to gently remove as much of the clay as possible with the knife. Then clean the area with some glass or all purpose cleaner to remove as of the residue as you can.

IMG_3671.jpg

IMG_3672.jpg

 

check closely to make sure everything you want to be white is filled.

 

IMG_3673.jpg

 

Now after the required drying time i usually wait three days to a week depending on temp.

Paint the second color

IMG_3674.jpg

 

Now you will want to wait several days to do the next part or you will not have clean sharp edges.

Use the tooth pick to remove the clay and top coat of paint and you will have clean sharp lines

IMG_3678.jpg

Here is another knob i had finished

IMG_3679.jpg

Now after this all dry coat with one or two light coats of the Matte finish to make the knobs look Real


Edited by Deadman

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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