Nightdare

Welcome to the broomcloset There's also a Logitech switch panel hidden under the desk

@sirrah The basic ones? Most certainly What I alluded to in the other thread, paying towards $90 for a basic square box with 12 buttons? Sorry, no, If I were to take an assembly line approach, I can do that myself at half price including labor

Though this is an example for a rudder, but axis=axis and VPC software works on all their products

I use both But I can add that since my comment on March 8th, that A: I got more used to it / B: The damper became more smooth over time Still a little iffy returning to center, but I just keep a DZ at 3%

Please understand I went looking for a solution after wanting to tell you there was a HDGT toggle, which I realized, there wasn't So I'm not using this workaround myself

I can't explain why there isn't But there is a workaround You can configure "Soft toggle" in Virpil button software, which in VPC tester shows it keeps the switch virtually latched until physically toggled again(*) I set both sides of the real toggle to "Soft Toggle" and I tried with keybind title "if else, Off" for both HH and HGT Both work *REMINDER: I did notice, since the toggle remains active until pushed again, if not 'reset', this can give some confusion trying to switch modes and/or perhaps also after you grabbed the Autopilot Disconnect Paddle (did not test this though), and the toggles on the VPC vs In Cockpit don't seem to be acting 1:1, like skipping over the "off" position (easily fixed by making sure the toggle is pushed to reset) Side note: VPC Software also allows for a virtual middle position in its Mom-Off-Mom toggles, though I doubt this is applicable in this situation, but might be handy for something else you wanna try in the future

May I ask what the LxW footprint is?

I believe you can in the virpil software: Select Z Axis (Doubleclick) Next screen change "Output %"" on center value (I put in 30%): The thin line will be your new center once you save and write to rom As evidenced here in VPC Joystick tester

It might just stick a little in center position, bit of electrical interference/distortion, quality difference in electrical parts/magnets With a value of positive or negative 100 in 32768, You are talking about a +/- 0.21% deviation

I'll see what I can do

Ah yes, that is one thing you can't make a BBI do, and I can understand the Arduino challenge, I kinda want to try something with such a board as well in the future If there are tips I can give for the layout: -Maybe make a 'ten-key'-type layout for the push buttons, familiarity with a keyboard numpad will aid muscle memory, even not in VR, not having to look what/where you are pressing helps -In that same vein, put a few toggles 'away' from the group, this will isolate some dedicated functions you don't want to confuse with the others -Wires, ...get silicone, don't go for the cheapest, also, don't go for the shortest wires, I found 200mm was at some points barely enough to connect the wires to the center mounted board in my 200x120mm case, BTW, if you get male/female connector wires, it's easy to lengthen them and secure the connection with heat shrink tube instead of solder -Some 12mm pushbuttons are somewhat too small in ergonomic comfort for adult fingers, also keep that in mind concerning spacing of knobs and switches -Don't drill too close to the edges or other holes

@SirioAstarot The Bodnar BBI is not like an Arduino, much more plug and play and no programming apart from a small utility program to designate/filter encoders, designate HATs, etc. 64 '+' pins, so 1 pin per function, and though there are 64 '-' pins as well, they share 1 (or 2) common rails, you basically connect all grounds to one-another I wired both my home baked creations grounds in groups of serial connections, in the end using only 3-4 of the ground pins

What do you need? https://aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Brass-inserts.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.search.0

Some may remember a year ago, I was whining about the price of button boxes, which naturally followed in making my own, which resulted in this: Past year, I've been playing with Winwing Orion 2 and Virpil Mongoost v1, screwed down inline on an old speaker cabinet, not the best setup, having to reach almost behind me operating the Virpil throttles when flying the Mosquito, also no good platform to expand on (the cabinet was too small and actually had the Virpil hanging off the back), so that needed to change when the chance arrived Well, chance arrived when my company dumped some old modular displays, consisting of square steel pipes and connecting pieces This gave me a roughly 54x37 cm 'table' which could put the 2 throttles side by side, it was a little too high, but instead of the chore of sawing through steel 4 times, I opted to 'drop' the plateau on which it all was screwed, which lowered my throttles level with the edges, of course this left 2 'cavities' forward and back and I, for the time being, filled them flush with 1mm plastic sheet Using a front plate designer on the PC and the plastic sheet as template, began working on designing and adding a button board, at work found an old +/- 4mm 'address board' that used to be screwed to the gate, which was plastic reinforced with laminated aluminum foil, perfect for my plan When I had some drafts, I got (another) Bodnar BBI-64, went shopping in China for various switches and buttons, started puzzling the RL layout and found I had way more space than I had connections on the BBI, but I still had a TM MFD lying around and figured I could add its functionality and fill space with it So far, this is the result: Though still mostly built by hand like my first try, this time, I put in a bit more effort/precision in the actual drilling of the holes (still won't win any beauty contests up close ) Modeled some configs from the F-14, like the top left plate has engine L/R start and inlets (since it would be above the Virpil and furthest to reach, figured I wasn't gonna populate it too much), the AFCS toggle layout, a 4-way hat as Target Designate Switch, and the rudder trim (unused in DCS) on the bottom right panel For fun also put in an emergency stop button (probably will be using it as ejection seat arming) Still need to work on the bottom left panel, the encoders need to be soldered and connected (that 'area' combined with the Virpil rotaries and axes will function for radio's and volumes), after which I'm gonna ponder what I'm gonna put in the space inside the MFD as I will still have some 10 terminals free on the Bodnar Now I also need some solution to power the led-equipped buttons, the Bodnar apparently can only do 1 led

I believe a Arduino can handle 51 connections? Since you're not using pots, you could manage with a Leo Bodnar BBI-64 You'd technically only need 2 ground pins with that I believe (left and right row), and ground doesn't take away any terminals So subtracting those, you only need 7x ON-OFF Toggle Switch: 7x 7x ON-OFF-ON Toggle Switch: 14x 12x Pushbutton: 12x 2x Rotary Encoders with push button: 6x (2x L/R+push) 2x Rotary Switches 5 Pos: 10x Total 49 connections This means you have enough terminals on the board free to make all your On-Off-On and On-Off toggles, On-On-On and On-On (63 connections and add 1 led to see if it's on) Or add a whole slew of other knobs and buttons

Momentary switches are (mom)-Off-(mom) For latching it would be On-Off-On These would probably work: Salecom T80-T Z1 - 12mm Be careful not to accidently buy 6.35mm

You must have more than 1 Port on the back, use several Hubs (especially since you'd probably be mixing and downgrading USB speed) Also: I wouldn't suggest Wireless hubs, but that's just me And since you have a 'real' pit, I would think routing USB cables shouldn't be such a big problem? I mean, they jam in several miles of cables into a real cockpit

What controller are you using?

...so, has Moza updated the firmware to enable Virpil brake axis?

The only thing now is to wait for AMD to -as per usual, miss their opportunity and giving any advantage they could have over Intel away

Tell Jester to get out and push

"And the crowd goes .....yawn" "...but my Ferrari does better mpg than your old one" -said no one EVER

@SharpeXB Can you handle a screwdriver, are able to identify sockets and plugs and install programs?

Nothing aggravating about DIY, you're usually busy checking out/reconfiguring a prebuilt a few hours as well Another option is to find a local shop with aftersales support

I don't paint myself as 'the PC/Software-tech' (and let's face it, the biggest headaches are the software problems) but the past 2 decades I got by the problems with smarts and a smartphone If you're like me, a 'home grown PC-Poker', no system problem is worth $1500 support money ~ I just went and specced a 'somewhat' comparable gaming rig in parts at a PC builder at a shop here in the Netherlands to check what that would cost me a 7800x3d, 4090, 6400/64gb Fury Ram, Asus X870e Strix, 2tb Fury M2, 1600w, Seasonic, system: (Yeah, EU, so prices in general are higher, but lets pretend $ and € are equal to even this out with currency conversion) 5400 including taxes, shipping + assembly by the shop (taxes equate to €930), discounting €100 rebates and free games FNW: 5900 excl taxes/shipping This system only differs from the Falcon North West in: I'm missing a custom Cable Mod set, value, say,... 250? Specced a Gigabyte Waterforce 4090 instead of NV FE , and since there is no custom cooler or case, I chose Corsair H170i 420mm and Asus Hyperion case as counters (A butt ugly cooler and case, but the point was, they were expensive, just as custom stuff tends to allow) So, arguably the better 4090 -at the least bragging rights for it being water cooled as well, bigger CPU cooler and the case allows expansion, so I had the ability to spec the 420 watercooler AND the Waterforce, not possible in the FNW and who knows what GPU's won't fit in the FNW case)